Hiro Protagonist

Forester GT has mags, those are the stock steelies, thus probably ruling out GT. That, and the lack of top-mount + bonnet scoop. And the Festiva could have got that high maybe if it was wheelspinning.....hit black ice or something, speared straight off the road? Possibly front wheels air-born when impact occured, allowing such high wheel speeds (but not necessarily car speed)

Agreed also, truckies are under huge amounts of pressure these days (remember the news story the other week about the truckies not allowed to sleep whilst they were waiting in the queue at the Woolworths loading dock). That makes the good ones angry and the bad ones absolutely dangerous.

The one that goes from the air filter housing to the rocker cover is the oil breather hose, thats where the air gets sucked in to circulate throug the block/head. The vapour then goes through the PCV valve into the carby (vacuum in the manifold/venturi opens the valve and sucks the vapour in)

I do have sympathy for truck drivers. I just don't have sympathy for BAD truck drivers. And most of this stuff is happening on the freeway, not in the middle of city traffic. If I had a dollar for the number of times I've been almost blown off the road on the freeway by a truck clearly doing more than it's supposedly speed-limited 100, I'd be a rich man (happened a LOT on my L's and red P's)

Or "Whilst you are reading the sign on the back of this Fox, another one has boxed you in. Enjoy the hill, sucker"

Technically they don't have a rear axle (FWD and IRS you see), but getting the whole rear end (trailing arm, ARB, strut, hub, rotor, caliper, brake lines, handbreak cable and control arm/toe links etc) is one way of being sure you've got everything you need.

He has a Celica, so it'll be an R-series engine most likely, maybe an S or a T (not great on my Celica years)

Because the exhaust is in the way, or different thread/mount?

Shouldn't really matter which oil filter you use, they have the same mount just different length. 4ACs can have much larger filters because there's no exhaust in the way.

Out of curiosity (not that I'm bagging your idea, just making sure that you've thought it through), why are you going with a 22R? They're a BIG, HEAVY motor that makes rather poor power for their size (rather poor power overall, actually), and the R-series has never come out in any Corolla so any gearbox and engine mounting stuff is going to have to be completely custom. Also, the standard gearbox behind a 22R is either a W- or G-series, both of which will most likely require "massaging" (ie bashing) of the transmission tunnel to make it fit, and then you'll still need a stronger rear end to cope with the torque. 4AGEs and 2TGs are much more common conversions which don't require completely custom installs, and if you do go down a completely custom route then something like a CA18 or SR20 will give much better results than a 22R (more expensive though) If you're just after a cheap power upgrade (the 22R itself is pretty cheap), it may be better going with something like a 5K or 7K, and if you've got any money left over from your original budget then spend that on cams, exhaust and carby, and you'll be much happier with the results.

There's a site on the net somewhere (can't remember exactly, and can't be bothered searching) that shows you how you can do a pretty good cheap-arse paint job using rust-paint and high-density foam rollers, for the fraction of the cost of a spray job.

Depends on how much it needs to be modified....plus it'll block my CAI a bit.

Can't remember where Davo's lights went, but they got sold pretty quickly. I got his full exhaust + intake, Greenstuffs and the short shifter, and the front lip off a 102 Sprinter that I've yet to investigate fitting (going to be irrelevant if I ever track down a FX-GT front bar)

The lights? Nah, they came from Rizzi, had them long before Davo got his JDM ones (which he got from Jason I think) And for cleaning the car, those photos are all at least 3-6 months old.....car has been cleaned numerous times since then, but it keeps coming back. You should see how quickly the front wheels get dirty from the brake dust.

Got them from another guy who had a 102, pretty sure he got them from eBay as I've seen them crop up there from time to time. You have to get the grille to match too as the ADM grille is a slightly different shape, and won't fit with those lights (but you buy the whole lot of eBay - lights, parkers + grille). Bit of wiring needs to be done too, but thats easy, and most of it was already done for me so I just had to change the globes, wire the halos to the parkers, and plug into the stock harness

10 seconds on the KYB website can get you the shocks that you need - then just hit up your local parts retailer to order them in for you. What you guys call the GR2 we call the Excel-G, very good bang-for-your-buck shock, and quite common too.

Obviously leave brake master cylinder/booster/lines unless you plan on changing them, and anything else thats not engine related.

Finally got around to wiring up the halos the other day.....well, actually months ago, but forogt to post them up here, been meaning to do this ever since I installed the lights themselves. Pics tell the story And for something more recent: Over the course of the past month or so, it seems my starter motor has slowly been dying. If the car is left on but not running for a while (aka lights on, or radio etc going), the car will fail to start, yet the battery is perfectly fine voltage-wise and everything else electric in the car still worked no problems. However, turn the ignition and you're greeted with a "clickclickclickclickclick" from the gearbox area. This inability to start led me to clutch-starting it on more than one occasion, and always attempting to park it within easy pushing distance of a nice down-hill slope. Figuring that it's an internal problem with the starter and nothing to do with the battery, I didn't consider jump-starting as an option, although finally I decided to give it a go (it's impossible to push the car out of my driveway without two people pushing and one person steering) and it worked fine. So that then led me to believe that the starter motor needed a good healthy fully charged battery (or alternatively a nice healthy 14.4v running engine+alternator) to start - a discharged battery (even only minor) would not provide enough kick (but would probably run a brand new starter just fine). So I got Davo's old starter motor from Sam/WTF33R, and installed that over the weekend. By some miracle, no bolts snapped, no leaks of any kind, only one round of WD40 was needed, and although access was tight (my hands are rather huge) I managed to get it out without removing exhaust or intake. New(er) starter motor in (much easier task), started it up, and was greeted with a lovely screeching noise, almost like a slipping belt. It went away as soon as the starter pinion detached, but still wasn't what I wanted to hear. Although it's gotten better with time, could just be the internal lubricant has dried up or a bit of surface rust on stuff, hopefully with a few more starts under it's belt it'll go away completely

eBay will tell you how much the lowballers want to pay, unless demand is high it is rare for a car to sell on eBay for how much it is actually worth (that's the reason for listings with reserves), because of the target market (if I wanted to buy a car I'd prefer to look at it physically first, get it checked out etc, hard to do through the internet and if the car is on the other side of the country, for instance) A car that's worth $1000 might sell for $10 on eBay because few people saw the add and the seller didn't bother with a reserve.

Should be able to do to the distributor what most people do with the 20V when converting it to RWD (the 20v distributor is in the same spot)

My KE55 (updated KE30) was Australia Post Red. Haven't seen many others in that colour, looked great in my opinion.

Gearboxes don't consume oil unless there's a leak somewhere, so topping up isn't needed. But for a full replacement, undo the filler bolt (usually on the side of the gearbox) FIRST (nothing worse than an empty gearbox that you can't fill up), then undo the drain plug (on the bottom of the gearbox) and drain into a container, replace the drain plug, then fill with fresh gearbox oil until it reaches the lip of the filler plug (no dipstick or anything apart from your finger). Thats general instructions, can't remember exactly where the plugs are on a K-series box, but should be fairly easy to work out.

Was also a year and a bit ago, and knowing Mitch he didn't do it intentionally. I can PM him a message if you want, since I'm a member there too.

What Grinds My Gears (also posted in WPMO thread on Toymods) SC10 not getting off their fat arses and getting HD hooked up. Whilst the fat cats and silvertails in Sydney get the F1 live in all it's HD glory, we're stuck with either watching a touristy video of Bathurst or whatever country backwater that has the prettiest trees for god-knows how many hours straight, with worse music than an Indian elevator. Damnit I want 10 HD, and I want it now. If only for the F1 live and the fact that Ten are now broadcasting the NFL, but only on HD. Pricks.

Firstly, if you're on a budget you basically can't go past GTX2 - it's relatively cheap, but not nasty, available everywhere, thick enough so anything but a tired clapped-out motor can run it but not too thick as to make the car sluggish. Secondly, no the Seca grille won't fit. The Seca/wagon front end is almost entirely different to the sedan and hatch body panel-wise, as well as lights, grille etc.