Hiro Protagonist

Maybe you should have made the whole car out of fan-belts.....

Do you have different PCDs at the moment? If so, why?

An AE71 (assuming it's manual) will already have a T50, so I fail to see why you'd need to "persuade" the firewall to accept one from a Celica. Oh, and there have been 18Rs put in AE71s too, but it's not common in Aus because there are lighter, smaller and cheaper options. Same goes for the 2T, they're both big heavy engines. 2Ts are more common in older KEs, but when you get to the KE70 and AE71 you've got access to much newer engines that require less work to install (like a 4AGE) which are smaller, lighter and cheaper to get more power out of, and practically drop in.

You only need to change the length of the selector rods to move the shifter position....gears/shafts/bearings etc could all stay the same

WPMO - Pro/E. Well, not really (I think it's an awesome program), but at the moment I'm working on a roughly 350mb assembly that takes forever to update/refresh. Everytime I click the mouse, hide a component or whatever it takes upwards of a minute for the program to respond. Normally I don't have this problem (the computer has ample resources - Intel 6300 Core 2 Duo 1.86GHz, 3.25GB of RAM, 256MB Quadro FX3500), but this model is extremely fiddly (it's a GA of the rear end of the machine) and takes a lot of power to process So I'm spending not much time doing actual work and a lot of time sitting here twiddling my thumbs waiting for something to update

Stay below 100kg If that works, work my way back down to around 85-90 (that is still classed as overweight for my height using BMI, but BMI is screwed anyway) Go to the gym more (see above two) Keep my job Move out with the missus Get the 102 registered and insured in my name Do many things to the 102 now that I have money

Funnily enough, I turned out with all that stuff without once copping the hand/paddle/cane/whatever.

And really hard reefing can stretch the cable....

You can still ratchet them......it's still the same effective action as a normal cable hand-brake, except the force is transmitted from the lever to the caliper via hydraulic pressure instead of cable tension. A calbe handbrake without the ratchet won't stay up either, which is the whole point of those "drift buttons" you see on eBay - they remove the ratchet lock from the lever, thus making drifting etc easier (you just reef the handbrake up and let go, don't have to worry about releasing it)

A mate of mine with a Starion (has a VR4 narrowblock in it) was looking into a bellhousing adaptor to a W58, pretty sure he managed to un-cover some stuff, so it wouldn't be that unreasonable for you to put a T50 or W58 or something behind a Bitsamissing Mirage engine

I always thought that was a boat?

Couple of things have happened in the past few days - First, bought a bed + mattress that cost more than the last two cars I bought. Got my full-time status rejected at work due to industry downturn and the fact that my division won't actually be making money for another couple of months (we're a financial black-hole at the moment because we're only in development stage, the vehicles won't be fully approved until mid February at the earliest) Got offered some wheels for the AE82 at a very cheap price, had inquired about them a couple of months ago (when I had more money) and was told that they weren't going to be sold, now that I don't have any they come on the market :y: But, on the bright side, I've FINALLY found a pair of AE101 Levin/Sprinter seats for the 102, and at a reasonable price too. Should be picking them up next weekend. Finally, I can go around corners without having to hang on to the steering wheel for grim death.

They use the money that they earned selling oil to the whole Western world at ridiculous prices to go to their local Porsche dealership and, ummm, buy one.

A Hive-mind is a group of minds that collectively think about things instead of thinking individually. Often seen in science-fiction movies, like the Borg in Star Trek for instance. So the comment is about how me and Toy-Yoda said essentially the same thing at the same time, as if we were thinking collectively.

Spooky *plays the X-Files theme*

Most likely for weight-transfer. Hitting the brakes will shift the weight forward, lightening the rear wheels and making it easier for them to slide (same way that FWD cars power-off oversteer when you get off the throttle mid-corner)

It's easy to slide a FWD car, just not in the same way as a RWD car. And once the slide is started, you pull it back by having the front wheels point in the direction of travel (ie opposite lock) and push the throttle, the whole car will automatically centre (like a giant shopping trolley wheel), the back end is essentially being pulled by the front (hence why FWD cars are often called bum-draggers). And 100% rear-wheel brake bias is incredibly easy to achieve, it's called a handbrake :y:

Or if you're intent on using a K-box (for some insane reason), track down a K-box from the US which was behind a 3A POS in the AE85....

And seeing as how it's a Camry, in Saudi Arabia, then chances are it's Australian-made too :-)

Love the KE30 2-door sedans, the late-KE55 tail-lights really look a treat too (I prefer them over the early-55/KE30 sedan tail-lights). Pity about the rust returning, but since you've got a photo of it in snow then I guess it's not that surprising, perhaps once you've got it all cut out and fixed up again you should go over the car with fish-oil to help prevent future break-outs (geez, I sound like an acne skin cream commercial)...

Can't remember exactly it the turbo ones will fit, but I'm pretty sure that series 1 3SGE covers are different from the rest, so it'd be a good idea to double, nay triple check what you have and what you're buying. Toymods should be able to assist in identifying which engine you have and what covers can fit.

You don't have to run the distributor low-tension wires from the coil, it can be any ignition-switched 12V supply (ie before the coil). When I put the 4KEU electronic dizzy on my KE55 it ran fine with a resistor coil (mind you it was an Echlin, not a GT40R), and I ran the low-tension leads from before the ballast resistor. The resistor is there to drop the voltage for the coil, not the distributor.

Umm, I think he's after a bootlid spoiler, not a chin spoiler....

In my '97 Conquest I run normally run 20W50, although I've since moved on to HPR30. The user manual recommends 15W40 as a minimum, 20W40 as normal (from new), after 10-11 years you probably would be looking at a 20W40 as a minimum. It's not a high-revving engine, and they tend to burn oil if you use stuff which is too thin especially at this age (although you've done a lot less ks than mine, almost 300,000k on the clock). And oil capacity is about 3.7L if you put in a new oil filter (which you should always do), a bit less if you're just topping up with the old filter (they never drain fully)

I've seen chicken-wire used as a base for bogging up a rusted-out door sill before, and this was the method recommended in the book (Readers Digest Book Of The Car). The book is probably a good 20-30 years old though....