Hiro Protagonist

Oh absolutely. However, the 2SC is without a doubt a boat anchor, and that is the engine in an SA63, the car featured in the first post photographs

I'm more impressed with the BEAMS actually, 150-odd kw from a 2.0L 4cylinder long before the S2000 hit the scene. Even so, there is a mile of difference between the top and bottom spec 2.0L S-series engines

The difference between a 2SC and a 3SGE BEAMS is mind-boggling. Similar to comparing a 2AC wheezy pile of crap to a Blacktop 20V 4AGE

I hope you mean 1.75-1.5mm, an inch and a half pitch would mean you only have one or two turns over the entire length of the thread 12mm diameter is correct though, can't remember if it's 1.75 or 1.5, go with whatever the standard metric thread is for an M12, or just get out the verniers and look really close, should find out easily that way I bored and tapped out an EL Falcon GT momo knob, can't remember what size bore and tap I used though :)

Good thing it's got a boat-anchor for an engine then.

What do you reckon will stop it? There has already been work done on it

Beer, then spirits. Although sometimes the order switches, just for a change Beer: Anything Coopers (especially Vintage, Best Extra Stout and Sparkling) Lowenbrau Grolsch Tooheys Old if I'm on the town and they don't have Coopers Stay well away from anything CUB, although Draught can be bearable at times VB and XXXX are good for giving the Victorians and Queenslanders something to drink so they don't drink all the Coopers Spirits: Captain Morgan rum all the way, sooo much better than Bundy and cheaper than Bacardi Schnapps Baileys and Kahlua Bourbon's not really my thing, neither is scotch unless it is Drambuie Benedictine Absolut and varieties

I know of someone who's planning to twincharge a 3RZ and put it in an MA61......:P

From the side it looks pretty good I reckon.....from the back it might look a bit weird, especially with the stock lights

I've seen a couple of supercharged 20v, mostly in Clubmans though, and they've all used Rotrex superchargers (ie centrifugal, not Rootes like the SC12/14)

Do you have a rear anti-roll bar in there? Pretty sure they came standard on all KE55s, at least the face-lift ones (mine does). I get bugger-all roll, but that could also just be rooted springs that have stiffened up

When I locked my keys in the KE55 a few weeks ago, found out that the key from a SV21 Camry fits just fine......lucky the guy was parked next to me and about to leave too :P

I've been tossing and turning on what to do with the KE55 when I turn it into a hillclimb car, KA24DE was on the cards for a while but I changed my mind a few weeks ago to go 3RZ + supercharger. This is just the kind of news I like to hear/see, someone doing almost the exact thing that I want to do and having no major problems

Aren't you?

Changing the time on a clock twice a year is hardly back-breaking work. Think of all the times you've had to input all the settings on your HU when you've pulled off the battery lead to do an ECU reset.

I've got pretty much the same colour too (Australia Post red), and I think mine looks better without lowering on 14x7s. Rally-spec FTW

Pfft, we're not Mexicans. The Victorians are the Mexicans, you guys are the Canadians. Total bunch of pussies if you ask me, whinging about too much daylight

If you want to know something about KEs, then here is pretty damn good. So is Toymods, but there is a core of KE owners common to both forums. If you want to know anything about any other Toyota, then go to Toymods, especially for RWD Celicas and Supras. Sure the signup can be a bit invasive and annoying, but that is designed to weed out the n00bs, trolls and keyboard warriors. They also restrict access to certain parts of the forums for several reasons, mainly security and to stop people whoring the For Sale section as a free classifieds. If you are genuinely interested in being a pro-active and productive member of the Toymods community, then be prepared to work for it. No-one there likes an ass-hat or keyboard warrior, but if you tough it out without insulting or annoying anyone then you should get along fine. Patience is definitely a virtue. If you have any issues with your signup process, wait a little while (they get a shed-load of applications and there are only a few people to process them), and if nothing happens then email one of the board members and they should be able to point you in the right direction. Oh, and if you're worried about the whole "need 30 rep to post in the classifieds" thing, I've been a member for about a year and a half now, and I've just kicked over 700 rep. Make useful contributions and it will go up. Be an idiot and expect it to plummet.

Can't remember part numbers for the cap and button. I just took the dizzy into Bursons and they fished around in their stock and looked up the catalogue till they found something that fit. From memory they came from something like a 5K Liteace

Not all beer has a used-by date...... Got to love Coopers Vintage, best after at least a year of storage, I've got some 2007 Vintage stashed away at the moment for consumption late next year

It depends on which distributor you have. By the sounds of it, you have one with an internal ignitor. Therefore, you only need rotor, cap and leads (the leads could be the same as the old 4k ones anyway). All you need to do is line the engine up with TDC on cylinder 1, undo the bolt and pull out the old dizzy, set the rotor on the new dizzy to point to roughly the same place, and bolt it in. The two wires which come from the dizzy go to the positive and negative sides of the coil. Then do the timing as you would on any other engine. The only problems which might arise is that the new dizzy could have two vacuum ports instead of the old one, and that the oil-pump key may make the dizzy slot in out of alignment. This is simply a case of trial and error, using a long flat-blade screwdriver to rotate the oil-pump with the dizzy removed, and then re-inserting the dizzy.

sorry got mixed up with my V6s. The VZ series came out in RWD in the Prado and Hilux, although it weighs a fair bit more than the MZ, which only came out in transverse mounting)

30 and 55 are +20

A 1MZ is pretty light on the scales, being all-alloy, and available in RWD format too. Being a V6 it can be set further back into the engine bay than a 4 or straight 6, which improves weight distribution

From HERE XT130 Struts, and XT130 steering knuckles and MX62 calipers and RA60 discs $60 from pick-a-part (pretend they are all from 1 car when you pay for them and make sure the car you say its off is the most unliked car in the universe - my tag line is "they are from a early 80's corona, you know, the ugly one" *then open up empty wallet and say "i only have 60 bucks" then watch as everyone gets annoyed but succumb to your pathetic plight) Pajero Master Cylinder $90 Brake Pads $60 Beer to pay fitter to do some welding $40 Total Cost $250