kazzpog33

it happened to me before... have you try pulling out the whole connector on the battery? I cleaned it with sandpaper for good contact and it starts.. thought it was a broken relay.

Thanks guys for the info... will this one fit? I look at frosty's link and see the code G142 and i believed this one have as indicated on the plate. The seller says it came from 1980 hilux 4WD and he is selling both diff front and rear. see pic bleow.. hope this one will do.

Just planning to replace a leaky and clanking diff in my Ke35... What should I put? I'm hearing of hilux diff to be so good... what is the diff code? where can i find the markings? Thanks!

Thanks Jono... it fits exactly... I will start doing my transplant next week.

Just called the seller, he says it will bolt with 4AGE with that bellhousing as it was previously installed in a Bigport TVIS.. Shall I buy this one?

My friend says it will fit with 4Age... not sure.. i was thinking of W5X but bellhousing is different.

Thanks.. i'll give it a shot... need to pull down again the gearbox, its already installed.

the bolt just got broken and stuck into flywheel.. rusty bolt head is the only thing remains with me.. so i need a machine shop right now?

Thanks Andy, I miss the timing mark on the camshaft... I look on the dotted circle instead of the spockets dowel pin... Helps a lot!! Thanks..

GEnts, would it be just fine to put 5 bolts on the pressure plate instead of 6 with the flywheel? I believed that the torque is in the disk going to the shaft and not with it..

what would happen if I overtighten it?

Guys, any idea why i can't find the proper valve clearance on my 3k..? this is a new rebuild 3k.. after i install the head, timing chain and rocker arm... I used the lazy method TDC at cylinder 1 firing adjusting valve 1,2,3,5 then crank 360 degress set 4,6,7,8... it looks that cylinder 1 and 4 intake has a very big offset the same as exhaust for 2 and 3... Am i wrong with my timing chain alignment?... just noob.. Thanks!~!

check some damage on that aluminum... My friend got one damage when frying the old seal...

I think this will be my last K rebuild.. I'm looking forward for more powerful engine... I will use this K for now while thinking, earning, and researching for a new one... any suggestion? There are lots of 4AG, 4AF here at my nearby town.. you can have a 4AGZE for $800 only... wreckers here don't care and don't know every engines value... they price it according to appearance, leaky oil - cheap, shiny and fresh - expensive!! thanks to that Japs Exporter..., but I also thinking that they use my town as Japan's wasteland... No Offense...

is that stamp factory stadard? i saw that firts caps don't have, the 2nd one has 1 dot, the 3rd has two and the fourth piston has 3... it looks that it was hammered by nail or something...

thanks for all the suggestions... it works good now.. here's what happened. remove all caps except mains - able to rotate install piston #1 caps - able to rotate install piston #2 caps - unable to rotate remove caps on piston #2 and install # 3 - able to rotate install caps on piston # 4 - unable to rotate swap caps on 2 and 4 - able to rotate when all tightened---- cheers! my daughter might swap it..

ok... I'm going to take some pic tommorow... I'm not confident that my conrad caps are in right position... standard size should be rotated by hand right? unless the store give me undersize...

the k was sitting on the stand... no head, no sump... just block, and the rest of what rotates inside..

the main caps have numbers 1 to 5 and arrows on it so i think its just fine.. conrad caps have numbers 1 and 3 only... i don't know if my daughter shuffle it in the garage.. any idea on that?... just new on this... what you mean tang facing tang? thanks!!!

just bought new set of mains and conrad bearing... but i was not able to crank it by hand after installing it in my 3k.. is it normal since it is new and no oil yet? just wondering how to adjust valve clearance if crank feels locked up and can't rotate...anyway it is all standard size.. thanks!..cheers!.

thanks guys for helping me... But i think i need some research on how to do your suggestions as a beginner. how compression test is done? I believed the idea is measuring the compress air pressure from bottom to firing position so it means i have to put my pressure gauge at the plug hole? am I correct? pressure gauge and hole adapter is the only thing I need? Any idea or link where to find the standard compression pressure for a 1166cc 3k-c engine?

I was thinking of full engine rebuild for this.. any suggestions?

thanks guys for the help... its a worn end bearing...!! Is there anything you can suggest to be replace aside from this bearing? yes it was a greasy weekend and i want everything that is about to collapse be replace before it dies so i wont take this K again up in the hood. is there any other parts which have the same frequency of replacement with this bearing? anyway its my first time to hang up an engine in the garage and this activities take much of my time. (KE35) 1. removing the pipe from the exhaust manifold. (is there a secret access to the bolt?) 2. removing the clutch cable (after some research i found that you need to remove the cable from the clutch pedal) THANKS...

I'm running 700 rpm @ idle..