Gizzys25

Hi Banjo Curious to the outcome of this. My son has a 4k in his 25 and always complaining about the Carby. If this works i believe it could be a simple solution. Do you think it would cope with a worked 4k also? Or would he be needing a bigger unit? Gizzys25

Well its been a while, but the Panel beater is back on the job again. (Nearly all ready for paint) And my now 18 year old son is getting into action on his one. Picked up another compete 74 model KE25. Some rust but nothing we don't have spares for. So here goes this Easter. Really hope to get something accomplished in the next 2 weeks.

In answer to how the chassis rail was fixed, the inner fender was unstitched next to the strut tower and he rail cut just below on the outer section ad the inner further up. then the new section put in. Did similar on the rear qtr. While he was at it pumped the rear guards out an inch by putting and extra inch of metal in the rear tub then attaching the qtr over the new wider tubs. now has the same roundness as the front guards have. Now able to cover 215's on 6 inch rims fitted to a wider K30 rear end. Wouldn't know it was done unless you put it next to another one. Well the garage needs to be a bit bigger now, my son brought hi own and I picked up another one. so that brings the total to 4 KE25's, 3x74s and one 73. Just a little repair work and a couple of resprays. Guess I'm on the parts hunt once again. For the life of me can't get the pictures in the right order or spots

Getting the panel better to do it. He's taken the front out of one and doing a full replacement of the chassis rail and inner fender. That way no more rust. Doing the same for the rest of the rust sections. Lucky for me I have 3 cars and between them they are all have major rust in different places. So I can cut up one to fix the other 2.

Here are a couple of pics So at last it is progressing

Well the cars are at a panel shop so the project is once again under way. Best bit I my son is doing work experience there and I too can drop in and work on the car any time I like. So far fully stripped the roof and started on the rest of the car. Mostly going bare metal on it now. Everywhere that was repaired last time. The roof is now in epoxy primer. Also what was the blue one turned out to be in the best shape of all 3 even though the roof was totaled. So the newest of the 3 has lost it's roof and front end so far. Rear qtrs and door frames are next. I'll be getting updates from my son each week as he will be put to work on it when there are no other jobs in. And he is now getting the second one. He is already putting ideas of how it will be built.

That is some awsome workmanship. Makes me think when i restart on my car i'll need to redo some of it. Keep up the good work and add some pictures showing how you do some of this stuff, it is realy inspiring.

Thanks for the support rolla clubbers. My 15 year old son is still keen so hopefully once we are back on track we can afford to do it sooner rather than later. Still don't know what it means to be a single dad to 3 boys yet.

Due to the sudden unexpected passing of my lovely wife this project will be put on hold. Once we sort our selves out and know what we are doing the cars are going to collect some dust. But since I met my wife because I had it,it will be done even though she didn't understand my passion for the car.

The motor I killed was the same age. Some ESC's are capable of supporting Sensored, I was lucky. Been perfect since. and I was the same, 1 turned into 16. (Red Jeep) Have something for any situation now. There is another perfectly OK posibility, Flat battery. They go slow, stop and then fast as some charge returns, repeat cycle till battery is dead. This means stop recharge and play again. :oops:

Unless the motor is a sensored one there is no thermal cutout on the motor and might be the first signs of a dead motor. The next will be now power to accelerate followed by smoke. If this is the case I recommend upgrading to a sensored combo. It will protect your inestment. While your at it if you spend a bit more invest in a waterproof one and then you can run it at winterfest in the rain.

Willing to make 2 sets of mounts? Welding is one thing I'm not so good at. Actually, I Suck at it

Here is the other project and was my daily till I got a new work car. (below) Both are Suzuki Vitara's, Standard stuff like Bullbars,Towbars and Snorkles. The Shorty is liffted with a 3" body lift of my Design to pass Engineering. Calmini 3" Suspension lift, Calmini Rear Swingaway bar, Camini Stearing Stabilizer. Calmini Skid Plates ARB Rear Locker. Custom Roof Rack made from a Hills Swing Set. Custom Rear Draws. 235/75/15 ATR's for the road and 31/10.5.15 Muddys for fun. Here's a shot with the Muddys fitted More details http://auszookers.co...591&hilit=gizzy And it all started with 1

Yeah thought I'd document and share this project. And the 3 car garage is smoke and mirrors, but made a good picture. One of the doors is realy the side gate. Been at the stearing wheel again, wasn't happy with the finish, so a quick sand and now to wait for finer weather to spray it again. The wife thought I was using a jack hammer till I told her all of Victoria was shaking and not just us. :lmao:

Pratice. See what it wants to do and then work from there. But i belive the weak link will be the diff. Get a stronger one with a welded centre or a good strong LSD.

There's a couple of AE71's for sale in the forsale section with 4AGE's that would make good doner cars for you. These are setup ready to run but in bodys that look like they need replacing. Best part you get everything to make yours go and get to see how and where everything goes. And even see it running prior to pulling it apart. Simplest method i can think of and all the hard work has been done by someone else. Will save you a fortune. Then sell the parts left over to recoup some of the costs

I was thinking of doing the same with the with the cooling system, looks like it is a simple solution. Keep the pics coming i want to see how it all fits up. Also how / what are you using for Engine mounts?

Ok, started on the stearing wheels, the split one from Raven was actually pretty good compared to the one i had. Some how forgot to take a pic of the inbetween stage showing all the filler and gluing i did to fix the splits. But started with this and onothwer a lot worse. Then filled and sanded, primed, sanded again Sprayed black the first one, first coat. And got this. The Second one needs a bit more sanding before it is painted. Now to the change of plans. The first plan was to chuck an engine with an auto and AC together and enjoy it and let my son when he turns 18 have full use of it till he gets his own car in reward for good grades. The Second car work with my 15 year old and build a fun machine, 4AGE, T50, Coilovers etc. Well the grades haven't proven worthy. He's getting the spare parts car and everything he needs to build it up. I'll assist but he needs to do the work. My orginal one, now, 4AGE, T50, AC all the good bits and use the blue one for rust repair sections for both cars. Good news is the 15 year old wants the same car as I do. Plus it give me more time to get it working. Watch this space to see what happens.

Looking better now. Just need to lower the shell over the Chassis so it doesn't look like a 4WD now. :yes:

I know I don't need to wait to finish the real thing but it's all about time and having to many projects at a time. 2 ke25's at once is a big task. + last night I discovered for about 40 plus shipping they make a te27 shell in the states. The last attempt looks pretty good. Another material to try is Lexen. Even tougher. I'd offer to come over and assist in tuning the chasis if your not to far away. The easier it is to handle the more fun you have. And as far as fwd, rwd or 4wd, stick with 4wd. Easier to drive it. If you can afford to get a 2.4 ghz transmitter and recivier do it as then no need for an antenna hole, it will fit inside the shell.

Popular colour, Looks alot better than mine. Do what you want to it. The only person you need to justify what you do to it is yourself. In the end who is going to be driving it, you or the people telling you what you should do to it. Keep up the good work and the rewards will be there for you.

Panel beater came over, went over the 3 cars, said it was a shame to cut up even one of them. If i could get a chasis rail from another car all 3 are repairable. The toughest to fix will be the blue one's roof, but doable. The big rust holes on the yellow ones are easier to deal with. don't think I have the parts to build 3.

You never get this sort of stuff on the first go, or third. And the problem might not be heat but unsufficiant vacume. you only get a few seconds before it hardens. or it gets too hot and melts through and you get holes. Look at maybe adding a second vac to the system to speed up the forming process. Once you master it use clear. As I said if you use clear poly cabinate you can paint the inside, then it takes the scratches not the paint. Tough as too. Put the stickers on the outside as that way they can be replaced. As far as the plastic engine mount, don't worry about heat, the nylon used takes quite a bit. The bigger issue is flex. Just be sure ther isn't enough for it to slip the gears. The metal one solves that. Most of mine are now metal now for that reason. Also when changing Pinion gears get the back lash right or you will either grind them or put un-nesacary load on the motor. If you can visulise a piece of paper in there, your pretty close. Oh and the kid across the street, his father laughed and told him to get out of the way. Don't think he had a chance though. Once I finish the real KE25's i might use your ideas to give it a go and make a 1:10 KE25 shell for the Porche. Not sure if i have too many though (For those counting there is 16 in total on the shelf of all different scales.) And it all started wiith 1

Would look cool if you could.. And a rule of thumb if after 5 mins of hard driving you can't touch the motor it's wotking too hard. If after 10 your getting closer and after 15mins you can just, your on the money. I ran one for 10 mins to hot and the motor died. Then the wait for the replacement. The more teeth on the motor the slower, the less the faster it goes. Yes, the reflectors are bad news. Try hitting one at 100K all i can say is duck. the kid across the road looks funny with his feet above his head when you hit him too. that one should be only used at the track mind you the truck at around 70Km is a lot of fun.

Having played with RC cars a bit, motors heat up if working to hard. Yes a heat sink will help but lowering the gearing will help a lot more. And a lower geared car accelerates a lot harder to. If I read correctly you are new to RC. You don't want a fast car till you can handle a slow one. Jumping from 30kph to 50kph is huge. Then moving to 60, 90 and now one of mine is pushing 110kph and a stone in the road is enough to get it 6 foot off the ground now. I have cars at each of those speeds and it is amasing how tough the vacuformed shells are. Just paint the inside as that way you don't see the scratches as easily.