5ksev

I'm using 4k head, not 5k And ok ill check that method with the timing! Nd no dizzy wasnt regraphed for the cam, altho it did all work perfectly in the 4k shitter

Hey guys, just chasing some advice, iv got a few years experience building these k motors but I'm a bit confused at the moment. From the top, built a 4k Cam, carb, head decked to 9.8-1, double valve springs Got over it after about a year, so i purchased a 5k in parts The build consisted of the following. Pulled down my 4k for parts, 5k block, Brand new shallow dish 5k pistons approx 7cc instead of the 28cc? That the standard D dished pistons are. ( youl see why soon ) Brand new rings Brand new bearings through out New graphite 5k head gasket New sump gasket ( 4k sump used ) Crank & conrods are from my running 4k My worked 4k cam Brand new 202 solid lifters New 4k double timing chain Used but straight Datsun a12 pushrods 4k solid rocker setup Used double valve springs from my 4k Brand new plugs Points type dissy from 4k as it didnt come with a dissy. Note- i used shallow top pistons and the decked 4k head, to have high compression, 4k being flat top piston and chamber in the head, wqith 5k the other way around, flat head and dish piston. So by my 4k being 9.8-1 i was thinking the iv got 7cc extra in the piston dish + the bigger bore, my compression ratio would still be quite close? So i built the engine and put it in, got it running yesterday to find it has a small knock ONLY AT IDLE AND WHILST WARM and also today i d given it another go and it has a miss when under load? It still pulls quite well, all the way through the rev range, but with a small miss. What could it be? Also its struggling to turn over with a chaarged battery? Ill list a few things iv done / tried *drained the tank of all old fuel, and filled it with 98 *New fuel filter *checked cam timing is correct *Used timing light and set it to 15*adv *checked valve clearences and set them *checked plugs which are black and dry *charged battery *jump started from d40 navara Anyone have any ideas???

Hey all, I've recently rebuilt and installed an sr20det red top into a ke70.. It has disco potato turbo, 875cc injectors Bosch 044 fuel pump 3" cooler piping Haltech sprint 500 ecu Went to take it for a drive the other day, it started, ran & idled fine.. Would rev to 3G fine.. But as soon as you would hit or go over 3, it just shuts down! It feels as if it has no spark, but still pumping fuel.. If I keep my foot on the throttle, then take it off before it completely stalls.. It will back fire, cough & splutter then return to idle.. And if I just take my foot straight off, it returns to idle as if there were no problem? I've replaced rubber fuel hose as it had a very small split.. No difference, My iacv WAS NOT hooked up, or connected to water, so I completely removed it and used a blanking plate.. Idles better but still hasn't fixed my problem I do have spare coils, should I try changing them over? Also at 1000rpm ( idle ) I am only getting around "14" on the vacc gauge? Do I have a leak or can the 3" piping have something to do with that? NOTE! E85 Bosch 044 875cc injectors 3" piping NO IACV NO C02 sensor NO AIR FLOW SENSORS.. Computer was tuned for this setup when came out of donor car

hey all, i know theres threads out there about sigma ( GH ) lca's into ke70's and stuff.. but i can never find much detail.. one thread iv seen say they fit straight in.. another says you need to re-drill the sway bar mount.. and more say about the sway bar + ball joint is tapered. if anyone reading this has done the conversion themself, can you please give me some info on what you did, and what needs to be done? also too, what does it mean by the balljoint is tapered? in what way is it? thanks alot! dan

Had another look at it today.. Turns out the dizzy was retarded By about 30-40* Thanks for the advice anyway!

hey all! been a long time since iv posted in here.. iv recently gone out and gotten another ke70, as my old one is in the process of getting an sr20det upgrade.. iv done some work to my new 4k, head decked to 9.8:1 tighe 424 camshaft ( 30/70 .450 lift 276 dur ) heavy duty valve springs new gaskets through-out new clutch i HAVE gotten a weber 28/36 carby for it, but it hasnt arrived yet.. so heres the story.. i put it all together, put the factory carby back on, just to try start it and have a listen.. i tried starting it.. to start with it dosnt start, then 5-10sec later it will start, but will only run with my foot flat to the floor and it revs @ around 1200-1500 rpm? as soon as i remove my foot it stalls. I'm confident that i have cam timing right, and ignition timing is fairly close.. could the factory 4k carby be the problem? or is it timing?

Update!! Sorry I Havnt made any post's.. Iv been out of action since Friday with food poising ( worst possible thing ever! ) Anyway, my old man brought up the compressor on Saturday, and also got me a front strut brace! Then today I was talking to a mate about diff options, and he said he had one I can go measure up and see if it fits. So I was straight into the car and on my way to his place! Got there and measured it up, turns out its a 1984 sr5 Hilux diff? ( so he says ) It measured up to be around 1420.. So I bought it for $100! Will hopefully strip it down tonight and take it into Aussie diffs tomorrow to get the bracket work done! Will upload a couple pics when I can

haha. aw well, hopefully it works for long enough to get my car done!

went and got a cheapish spray gun today, and going to get my old mans air compressor tomorrow, so i can give it a go at painting my engine bay!

Yeah, either an adaptor or just the piece to put on the end of the solid line That goes into it

Haha yeah, it fell down the night before

I havnt used it yet, but yeah one of the female plugs have a larger hole then normal? I'll just take it into a brake shop in tweed heads, and see what they have to say about it!

haha yeah, well I'm no mechanic, but i want to try and do as much as possibly, just so i can learn! iv used the flaring tool already, but havnt tested the lines yet.. they look good, but ill make a post when i test them!

bought a kinchrome tool set last week, 166 pieces for $240 also found a hydraulic pedal box in southport for $200! now to pull out the SR!! stripping the engine down to start the rebuild now the corolla as she sits!

one day i was rather bored, and thought id try to make a rear wing / roof spoiler still needs to be finished! put the car up on stands, to remove the diff.. about 20sec after i got out from underneath it, it fell off the stands! thats what i call lucky after much ringing around, from brisbane to coffs harbour i finally found xt130 suspension only 20min away from home! went and picked that up for $300 ( complete struts, & lca's ) new tie rod ends went and bought a welder, hydraulic handbrake and a double flaring tool off ebay bnn

so this is how the corolla was before i began hacking at it! now, i started off with removing the 5k engine, gearbox, loom & dash! after removing all the mechanical and wiring, i began to flare the guards, to fit the bigger rims! j

hey all, my names dan, I'm 18 & i baught this 1983 ke70 in september last year for $1000. it had a stock 5k in it, with pacemaker extractors, weber carby, and a 2 1/4" exhaust.. between the date of purchase, and january, i did the following * tighe 104 cam * double heavy duty valve springs * custom valve retainers * head decked 60thou ( 10-1 compression ) * new ignition leads & coil * full gasket kit * oil and oil filter other stuff i can't remember since then iv locked the diff, and had my fun.. i ended up getting over the 5k pretty quick! ( slow, and cop attention from the cam ) so about a month ago i began to pull the 5k out, to make way for a 4age, once i had the motor out, my brother came over to have a look, and mentioned that when his sr goes in his 180sx ( it has blow by ) i can have everything out of his car, to put in mine, so we did the deal! he drove his car over to mine about 3 days ago, whilst i was in working on the ke, i heard what i thought was a motorbike, i walked out to the drive way, and there was the 180sx with a miss.. instantly i thought YESSS ITS MOTOR TIMEE!! we ended up doing a compression test.. and as expected, cyl 2 was gone so that day i began to pull the sr out! i got it out, and took the head off yesterday, turns out it didnt lose cyl #2, but yet broke the rocker arms for it! i was so happy! just knowing that theres no loose piston and rings floating around scratching the bore! so anyhow, i took the crank and pistons out today, and all 4 cylinders are clean as! no dents, no scratch's nothing! although, i am going to take the block to get checked properly anyway, and have the cyl's honed so here's the plan, track sr20det ke70, ( track because I'm on my p's ) full roll cage fully stripped seam welded bucket seats with 4-5 point harness hydraulic handbrake 15x10's on the rear, and 15x8 on the front corona xt130 suspension up front hilux rn40 diff custom tail shaft, paint the interior and engine bay white ( leave the exterior looking shit ) aluminium sheet dash with guages & switch's goal build time: finished before powercruise! ( september 6th 2012 ) will post as the days go by!

Hey mate, I'm not to sure what you will need. But iv got a 5 speed box for sale, and I'm currently pulling out the manual pedal box.. If your interested, give me a text, 0432740324

Alright. Knowing my luck they will most likely not be the same.

Alright well I'll have the engine apart tomorrow, So more then likely all k serries oil pumps would be the same?

I'm pulling the engine out anyway, as I'm going to tidy it up.. whilst its out.. how would i go by replacing the oil pump? iv been to an auto parts store on the gold coast ( global auto spares ) and they have said they can't find an oil pump. so how would ii go by that? dan.

As said above, a 5k has hydraulic lifters and doesn't have adjustable tappers or what ever.. Low oil pressure will cause no oil getting to the top.. ( making it loud )

How would the oil pressure sender have anything to do with the rockers getting noisy?

Wether I check it running, after running or before.. It's still full :(

hey guys, iv got a 83 ke70 with a manual & 5k conversion.. long story short. I was driving home the other day, and the oil light had come on as i was coming up my street, i got home and checked the level.. was full and rather clean. i started it up again and the light WASNT on.. but after a few minutes it slowly faded on again, and the ( rockers? ) were noticibly louder then normal.. so i turned it off again and checked the level.. was still full. I'm guessing my oil pump has shit its self? if anyone could help me work out the problem that would be great!