jara

cheers guys, I'll head on over to super-cheap and see how much a multimeter is, or see if they do checks but when the charge light does come on, why isnt it on all the time?

So for a few months there my charge light was coming on about 50% of the time i drove, i didnt realise that my battery was getting weaker though until i left on my lights and needed to jump start it. I charged my battery over-night with a wall charger and she was good again for about a week, then cranking was getting a little slower again and the charge light came on again. I cherged it over-night again even though the charger said the battery was fully charged. Next morning it was cranking nice and fast, but in the past week has gotten slower again, but the charge light has yet to come back. anyway, what do you guys think the problem is? the fan belt is not loose just don't want to spend a few hundred on a battery or alternator then find out i needed the other cheers i don't know if this matters but: CCA - 530 CA - 650

I followed the wires as best i could and found nothing, There are a few old connections in the engine bay though. I don't know what it is called, but the connector under the steering shaft, that connects 30 or so wires. I undid this, blew in it and plugged it back in, and problem solved. how easy was that hey? I also noticed that a wire in there had melted some of the plastic around it.... this car is absolutely chock full of wires, so many things have been done / undone. I dream of the day when it's all cleared out. cheers guys. also, is it simple enough for me to do that double relay thing myself? I don't even know where to find the first one

So when I try putting my headlights on, nothing happens except the high beams indicator comes on. I push the stick forward, the beams indicator turns off and still no lights. But if I pull the stick towards me, i get lights (not sure whether high or low beams though, cause they're pretty much the same). I replaced the headlight stalk today, which took bloody ages to get in. Didnt help though, same problem, different stalk. any thoughts? i really don't wanna have my wallet raped cheers

but i'll see how it goes and if it needs a look i'll sed out a few messages. thanks guys

medicine man only had a little look and teddy didnt get a chance to cause the thing wasnt starting for him (i think he dirtied up the points with sandpaper shavings)

awesome, thanks. and when i get some spare time, i'll see if Dave can help. cheers

when it doesnt start, i can hear its not just cranking and cranking, theres a little bit of firing, but just no enough power to get it going fully. it takes a few goes and i fear of flooding it. in the case of it being flooded, do i just need to wait a couple minutes? also, to clarify something, to note when the rotor is hitting cylinder 1, I marked on the dizzy the centre of the lead plug of the cap. so just as the rotor passes this, the points open. will i need to fine tune this when getting a new cap? cause I'm going to pick one up after lunch. cause that bit in the middle that is meant to be out 4mm, mine isnt out at all

normally everyone who's touched my car (including me) has used the fan to rotate the engine, but the other day when i tried, the fan would rotate but the belt wouldn't. but yesterday gave it another shot and it did. the points juuuust start to open once it hits cyl 1? (wait... so the car needs to be in accessory to rotate the motor?) and this morning on a cold winter morning, it took 3 goes with the choke fully on to get started so i could warm it up. is there anything i can do to help this?

so I'll make sure that when the rotor hits cyl 1, the points juuuuust start to open? It's only a 3sp auto.... really should have gotten a manual though.

well i tightened it up with a regular wrench, but when i was at my father in law's and we did the timing, he said after setting it to 8 degrees, to rotate the dizzy and align the middle of the rotor with the middle of the first cylinder, rather than taking note of the points. is this ok? or should i re-do it on my own? seems to be going nice though. although after a long trips and a 5 minute break, it doesnt like to start up very quickly again.

wow thanks, Doesnt sounds too difficult, It's driving fine for now, but I'll definitely do the timing tomorrow. also, that bolt in the photo, i tried turning mine and it was loose. it didnt turn the belt like i thought it would

i hope that's how you quote. anyway, I'm going to have to do the timing by myself. when you say 'lossen the clamp' what clamp are you talking about? and moving it backwards and forwards i assume you mean moving the belts to make the rotor rotate. and how do i set the crankshaft to the 8deg?

will the car still run and not break down if i don't do the timing after putting in new points? if not, is there a video on how to do the timing without the light?

thanks, thought it was meant to pop out but cause no one pointed it out, I guessed it was ok, i'll pick one up next time I'm out

got the point, rotor and condenser. hesitant putting them cause then i'll have to do the timing. maybe teddy is free tomorrow

didnt see the second page, doesnt sound too difficult. next time i visit the father in law, i'll show him this stuff and get him just to make sure i'm not ʞ©$ɟing anything up. cheers

thanks altezza, I'll go get the points, rotor, capacitor and maaaaybe a new cap. depends on the price of things. but I'm a little hesitant on doing the timing. I think i'll wait until i have someone to give me a hand with the carby though, and thanks guys for the warning on this toxic stuff. I'll definately be careful. Not gonna skip the safety stuff cause it isnt 'cool' or whatever. thanks guys, this is stuff i learn for life and will no doubt save me issues time and time again

are there any KE get togethers close to brisbane's Northern suburbs?

1. well i bought some carb cleaner. do i just take the air filter off and spray into where i can see? 2. I went into the servo up the road to see if they had any points on hand, they didnt, and either did supercheap. I have feeler gauges, and know the gap needs to be 0.45mm. the guy also had a quick look and said that carby cleaner was shit and he lowered my idle down a shit tonne. don't know if i should trust his techniques. should I? I'll go out tomorrow or tonight for the points and think i'll get a new rotor too. 3. and in the cap underneath, the bit in the middle is flat with the cap, is that meant to be pushing out? 4. what's the condensor? is it important that i get a new one? and 5. do i have to have the timing done when new points are put in? also, 6. when i was at supercheap, the book had different parts for 4k and 4kc. does it matter? cause my thing says 4kc but everyone calls it just a 4k? haha, thanks for your never ending help man

I'll buy some new point, give the carby a clean with that stuff. attempt that needle float thing if it doesnt look too difficult. but I wouldnt know about the jets. sounds like a plan. I'll come back with the results

are there ever any KE get togethers? I've been looking but havent seen anything

no jets have been cleaned, and no idea about the needle and seat thing. teddy did have a look into the carb i think. maybe something got in? i doubt it's a blocked jet cause it's such a sudden thing. It was running beautifully, then the stalling for a couple days, then didnt start. but now that the points were filed, the idle and starting is better. so wouldnt it have to be something that has been touched?

i've got one of those manuals, it has helped a lot, it is my first resort usually, thanks though. but it starts all good now. i thought everything was fixed.... but it broke down 3 times just on a trip getting petrol.... it sounds like something was loose in there when i put the throttle on and it loses power, putts and dies! I had a look but nothing seems to be loose Altezza, thanks, that's a lot of detail, but i mentioned that it sparks fine now. starts like it used to also - i tried it parked with the bonnet up and when it made the putt noises and dies, smoke come out from and under the air filter. could it be that the mixture and idle are causeing it to break down? i mentioned it to the racq guy and he gave them a fiddle.