jara

Thanks so much man

I'm after a bigger coil for my hotspark electrical ignition. it needs a primary resistance of at least 3.0 but i can't find the one I'm after anywhere. Anyone here know the one i need? And its a 79 ke55. Cheers

not losing fluid but and it was bled about 18 months ago, but i'll give it a shot when i get the chance thanks guys

ive noticed that when i push my brakes for the second time in a row, it's missing something, maybe pressure. the mechanic reckons I'm up for a whole new booster. but he's been wrong before. whatdo you guys reckon?

thanks, i'll do exactly that. i might end up back here about it though. thanks guys

yes, i pulled the drums off, but i only checked for obvious leaks, i didnt know about i've never seen any leaks in the engine bay, but i'll give it another check next time it plays up. should i get the booster rebuilt? or pick up a used one? or is it simple enough to tackle myself?

i'll give it a shot at trying to stop fast i think the pedal might not go all the way down when its playing up,or it could be my imagination. I'm not quite sure what you mean about the fluid. best i can say is that there is a brake fluid container for the front and rear brakes. i'll see if the pedal goes down tomorrw. thanks guys

For the past few days my brakes have had a mind of their own about stopping my car. some trips they work like usual, other trips, they barely work and i roll slowly for a while before coming to a stop. I can't see any leaks, the shoes are fine and yesterday i took it out and gave the brakes a good testing and they were all good. but today on the way back from the shops, they stopped working again. usually i can hold my brakes down with the car in drive and rev the car without it moving. but when i have the problem, the tiniest little touch of the accelerator will move the car. any thoughts?

nice plan man. been wanting an upgrade like this since i got my ke55. would love to do something like this in a few years when i've got more experience and money. hope this thread is still around then. haha.

if i had the money, i'd have done that after the first visit. Warning guys, the auto elec in Aspley, is a wanker

I've been to the auto elecc three times. he's had it for abuot 8 hours all up, each time he says he's fixed the charging problem. the charge light has come on a couple times in the last week since he last 'fixed' it. if i take it back it's just going to be a waste of time, but i can't afford to pay to have it fixed somewhere else. is there a way i can get my money back? or should i just take it back to him?

the battery is under 2 years old, and it's a good one. I'm gonna call up some auto elecs now and see if i can get a diagnosis done. bet it's the bloody wiring gremlins

well i finally got around to getting an auto elec a couple weeks ago (bloody dodgy prick he was). had the alternator rebuilt and charge light was still coming on. after he fixed something else he ʞ©$ɟed up and blamed on me he said it was the fan belt. i did that myself though, but the charge light is still coming on about 70% of the time. battery hasnt gotten to the point where it cranks really slow in a while though. so i guess is that the 30% of the time when the light is off, that's charging it enough. Or the wiring to the light is just playing up..... I've had a few battery tests, they all say its good any thoughts?

When the day comes and i get a second rolla, that one will be a manual. but being my first car, I don't want to change the auto. cheers, once I'm in the army and have money to spare i know what i'll be doing :)

the guy that did my head gasket said that it had racing sized pistons put in... i don't know why, he could be wrong. is the "cam grind, Weber carb, extractors, sports exhaust" going to make a big difference? sounds expensive too

Got a ke55, 4k, 3 speed auto. I know the auto is holding it back and I'm going to keep it that way, just wondering, is there anything i can do to give it a little extra punch? the hills really take it out of her.

bit far for me, all good though. when the charge light comes on again, i'll have it tested to make sure it's the alty playing up, then look into going over to wynnum

sounds like a good deal, supercheap have them re-conditioned for double that price.

i'd happily part with only 150 and have this drama over with. and it's only a 25 minute drive. so what'd you do? take out the alternator for him to fix, then pop it back in yourself?

Car doesnt have a tacco, so i have no idea when it's doing 3000rpm. They didn't give me a printout so i have no idea on that bit. So looks like i should be ringing up some auto elecs asking for prices on fixing the alternator, this car really likes to ʞ©$ɟ around with my wallet. this stuff about the regulator sounds pretty likely though. if anyone close by would be willing to give me a hand though, that'd be pretty awesome.

so i used the 20 at 10 o'clock, it has a V with three dots above it and a line. car off was 13.16 car idle was 14.43 car off was 13.34 was i meant to test the battery when it was cold?

there is no 20 bit in the section that has a V with a line.... do you mean the 20 that is at about 10 o'clock? I put it on the BATT 9V option, it said 13.43 when car was off and 14.68 when on. but this seems like the wrong setting also, supercheap's test reckons there is nothing wrong with the batter or alternator.... and the battery is at 69%, but apparently that's fine

Well, i'll head down to supercheap again for that battery and charger check. but for my own benifit, how do i use this? haha, just bought it and don't have a clue how i'd simply test the voltage coming off of my battery http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Stanley-Multimeter-Digital-Pocket.aspx?pid=9441#Description

okie dokie, well i might aswell do that first, i'll pick one up at supercheap on the way back from getting the missus in a few minutes. i'll report later today the help i get from here is always great, cheers

well the charge light has definitely been on while driving, but i thiiiiink it mainly comes on when i'm at the lights. I'll ring around and get a diagnosis then, that way i'll know for sure. I wanted to avoid auto electritians though, about $100 an hour. thanks guys.