AE92reddragon

So here's an update. I admitted defeat and took it to the mechanic (the first time she has ever been in the 3 years I've owned her). They diagnosed it as a vacuum leak in the carby so they swaped the other carby and manifold back on. This has not realy solved the problem, apparently both carbies are rooted and I should have one recondintioned. Which seems a little strange as both engines ran and idled fine before the opperation. So they have just set it to idle high. This set me back $200. Now I am left with the feeling that I should have just swapped only the clutch and gearbox and not bothered with the engine. But at least I have learned a little something along the way and I didn't totaly ruin my car. Besides the high idle there are a couple of new noises and she just feels a less spirited. The only thing I can think of that is set up different now is that the dizzy on this engine is a little different and doesn't have a separate coil. Please feel free to advise and criticise. Cheers

Thanks for the input guys. A trd rally setup would be awesome, shame its not in the budget.

Hey I'm in need of some advice. I have just swaped the engine and gearbox in my 1990 AE92 (4AFC came out and second-hand 4AFC went in). The donor engine ran geat before I took it out of its rusted out shell. Everything is hooked up and it started first pop, however it will not idle unless the choke is on, as soon as you pump the throttle once it stalls. I have taken it for a test drive and it is way down on power and feels like the timing is out but I can't adjust the timing when it isn't idling. I tried fiddling with the idle adjustments on the carby but it doesn't seem to make a difference other than to increase the rpm when the choke is on. I'm pretty sure all the emissions control stuff is hooked up correctly. The only other thing is that there seems to be a leak where the exhaust manifold conects to the vertical pipe at the front of the engine, I will be getting a new gasket ring set tomorrow to fix this (I shouldn't have put the old shitty ones back in). Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Cheers PS. The gearbox and clutch are smooth as, a huge improvement.

I have a general question regarding the performance of different suspesion setups relative to road surface condition. I live on a ruff as guts dirt road which means that my car is perpetualy dirty and everything rattles like crazy. I have often considered upgrading the suspension/wheel setup on my 4AFC AE92 but I have never bothered as my logic dictates that 'travel=comfort'. So I am currently rocking standard suspension with some basic 14inch steel rims (pretty sure they are off the late model lancer with new mags on it that I saw sitting next to my car when when I bought it a few years ago). Anyway I am interested in hearing peoples opinions on how stiff, lowered suspension and low profile tyres go on crappy roads. Is there a good solution for this particular problem? Cheers.

Electronic rust proofing is a scam. It would only work if the vehicle was completely submerged under water.