Thirteen13

Alriggt no worries mate I'll see yas there

Well should we just meet somewhere closer to us then roll into the south cruise? I'm still not that good with my locations of Perth yet!

Hey Spencer, btw nice to meet u last night. However is gateways the cockburn shopping centre? Where abouts there will u guys meet and when I'll be there to representz the rolla cru Btw I just had a look at there fb page and there is a south of river cruise up there. If you guys wanted to meet a bit earlier then meet up with the rest we could do that? I'm easy tho whatever suits you really

anyone heading out this weekend ? Anyone feel like a meet and great

could u just measure the size of the pipe and go buy a new bit of hose from bunnings or supercheap ?

that ae82 looks very impressive. I reckon an ae92 would hammer, i saw a stock sportivo the other day with 2zz and he gave it the beans and sounded unreal, unlike any other 4 cylinder screamer ive heard. Sounded so good and the thing absolutely hammered

How is it the stack is so bad that the diff and struts need replacing did u get rammed in the back end big time? If so I doubt its worth fixing, scrap and restart

Got my rims. Coming Friday! Then fit the turbo:)

hows this for lucky, found the same set of rims but in 15x7 with a +30 offset! Just not the colour i want, but lick of paint will fix that! :happy:

How low is your car though ? I'm only running King Lows, not superlows or anything crazy like that.. I like a bit of travel in my suspension!

yeah, I'm not really that keen on running a stretched really isnt my thing, considering I'm aiming for 200fwkw in an AE92! ill never get traction! However a 215 i doubt would fit very well. I did also find another set of rims which are a bit more sensible, 15x7+30 which will fit nicely with a bit of aggression and i can get a 205/195 on it which will seat nicely

Alright, found a few sets of rims I'm interested in but need some advice on sizes for AE92 Firstly the set i liked the most are most likely not going to fit, but anyway, they are a 15x8 +25. So quite an aggressive stance, which I'm happy with, but the 8" width I'm thinking will pose a concern, smallest i could get would be a 215x50x15 that would be reasonable to have fitted. I didnt have my car at the time so i didnt get a chance to test fit these. Has anyone something of this size with any luck. I'm thinking the 215 will be too wide. My car isnt crazy low and should clear the guard fine, otherwise some flaring is no issue. I don't want to run spacers either. Anyone got any advice if these could fit, obviously i want to take my car up and trial fit them as the best way.

after having a read through the Haynes manual, it appears the 4A-FE alternator is on the front of the motor where as the 4A-GE is on the back.... That being said is anyone aware if the bolt pattern is the same, just on a different side, or is there any other model engine that will allow the alternator to bolt upto a 4A-GE. Also is the bigport and smallport alternators the same ? i would be very inclined to say they are, however with the different intake manifold setup you never know and I'm unsure Thanks :happy:

when you say, Money is the problem, you realise it will cost more to swap a new motor, than to fix what you have currently ?

I find this a very interesting point and in a sense warming to know there are people out there who realise not everyone is a mechanical engineer. If i am to add my 2c, i don't proclaim to be any sort of expert in mechanics however i've found that not just sticking to one model of car and researching that for eg: KE70.. But rather, reading about all different models of toyotas and different brands of cars, reading the stories of peoples personal engine swaps and bits and peices also i find helps enourmously. Very often ive had the same issue trying to work out if a bit will work or not. Ive suggested to a mate who wants to get stuck into an MX5 project and ill suggest it to you also as others have. Buy an engine stand, pick up a cheap motor and work on it yourself. I was always scared myself to do even small things in the past like change fuel filters, cause it was either too hard, didnt understand how to do it, didnt know where it was. But decided one day. OK my project for today is to do XXX. I did it and now i think Oh thats easy! I guess many many people "talk" about wanting to do conversion X and Y and put 2JZ into KE70 and tell all there mates about it, but never physically get around to it and its these sort of people that cause annoyance for the more experience people either trying to help genuine people. You have to start learning from somewhere, so why not set yourself the project of getting something like a 5K, put it on an engine stand in a space. Get yourself a tool kit, a workshop manual and go through the process of rebuilding it. It gives you a project to tinker with and satisfy your curiosity while you will learn an incredible amount. This will also inspire you and give you confidence to take it to the next level. Once its finished and your ready, you will definately feel more confident in swapping the motor out. Often its just the unknown that makes us unsure but if your genuine about it, then I'm sure you will end up doing it, just takes time and motivation and the whillingness to learn and realise you have to start from taking the first step. :happy:

spencer: are you on Toymods ? There is a link to it there. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/western-australian-events/69916-teccwa-aem-japanese-car-day-16th-oct-2011-a.html Unsure if you have to be a member to view it, but pretty sure this is it! :happy:

now you just gotta hold it flat on the limiter to show that b**ch who is boss

i LOL'd at this thread :lolcry: btw fwd have there merits over rwd, obviously not when it comes to drifting, but drifting isnt good for your car anyway

cheers man, i used to live on sunny coast but I'm over in WA now so bit of an issue. Ill suss out what i can. is a 4AFE unit or any model option available or is the bolt pattern different ? I know GZE is totaly wrong as its on the bottom of the motor.

Yeah, I'm thinking that is the easiest option and its good advice.... the only down side is, this is on the car I'm selling and ive taken a deposit on the car already to sell!

Hey guys, Went to start my 4age the other day and noticed voltage gauge was reading excessively high as soon as i started the car up and it felt like it had a problem running, wasnt smooth was a bit jittery. Battery light stayed on also. Decided that's not normal. So turned it off and got lift to work. Came back later to check it all out again and the battery is dead. Got another battery, same deal had it running for 20 seconds on a new working battery. 14.5v on idle with no load, no accessories and when reved in neutral spiked upto 19v. This was checked on multi meter. I assume this means the voltage regulator is dead. However would 15v+ be enough to kill a battery that quickly?? I find it odd that a brand new battery is killed within 20 seconds, which has me thinking there could be a leak also. But unsure.... I havent had a chance to inspect closely, is it worth while paying $40 for a new regulator or should just get an entire new alternator/replacement rebuild. Also is the regulator inside the alternator? Or on the back? I have seen the 4AGZE regulator is inside the alternator itself, so i would assume the same for the 4AGE one, but I'm not 100% sure. Is there an alternative replacement such as 4afe that will bolt up, or are they wrong bolt holes that wont line up ? Thanks

WA Transport, the people who look after road issues! Ive gotten unlicened vehicle permits heaps, you just specify when and how long you need it for and where your going as in Point A and Point B location, So if you get pulled over you are all good.

Its a valid reason for wanting to do the swap, however its not exactly the most logical. Its only suggested to go for the 4A, purely cause its been done and covered and the easiest vs highest hp output. Also like caibs suggested you have the option to go 4AGZE, which already puts you miles ahead of the SR20 cost wise, as you will happily make around 85-95rwkw basically on a stock motor. You could pick up a running 4AGZE for around 1500-2500. Also like caibs mentioned a conversion like the SR and all associated parts will easily see your project blow out past 10k, espcially if you arent fabricating things up yourself. With that money you have saved, put it towards the GZE and either put a GT28R on it and it will happily punch 200rwhp no worries, plus you have extra for ECU, front mount with piping and exhaust etc etc. Or if you wanna just do it on the cheap, just get a full stock GZE or even cheaper a smallport 4age and you'll be sorted. We ain't telling you what to do mate but its being reccomended over and over to not go the SR and within good reason man

i don't want to hijack and burst your bubble for doing this swap, cause i have seen this exact conversion done. However I have debated this kind of thing with several people and I too have to agree that it would be similar to go with the 4AGE option as its been done, documented over and over and over by numerous people. But use that to your advtange, as the 4AGE as we all know is a very capable little motor and for what it will cost to do all these custom bits and pieces, why not just spend the extra coin in a 4AGE and get it turbo or SC or work an NA motor and youll still get surprising results, espcially in a car that light! 200HP at the wheels is plenty, esp if you have it setup for drifting.

+1 for this thread, this is sooooooooo helpful. Nothing is more frustrating that a rounded nut, espcially when you have been through hell trying to undo it ;)