Sephiroth

I'm sure it's near the air box or strut tower has diagnostic written on the top not to hard to find and inside the cap has the pin locations to make it easy for ya

From memory there's a diagnosis box near your air box some where and I think you bridge TE1 and E1 (not 100% sure will have to double check) with a paper clip start the car adjust your timing using a timing light when she's right turn her off pull bridge pin out and start car and then make sure the idle comes up when you turn air con electrical loads and what not on hope that helps Cheers Jaesn 

Save the dosh and have the leaves reset maybe invert the eyes and get a leaf added to stiffen them up 2" blocks will give you axle tramps which is definitely not a good thing As for the front king springs do a 30mm lower spring which won't be low enough I'm trying to figure that out may have to get them compressed or maybe sneak a coil off

Thanks springersrolla I know not to skimp out on safety that's the reason why I'm doing my suspension before my motor the bonus is I'm a 4th year mech apprentice so I get all my parts fairly cheap I'm not doing my setup on a budget I just spent over $700 on my rear So from what I understand I'm pretty limited to the camber issue so I'll have to go GH sigma LCA's sigma bushes?? Trim the inner bush to fit and use sigma ball joint but it has a larger taper so reem her out a little and ke castor rod bushes new tie rods links arms bearings brakes and so on

soooo....what are you asking? I'm just looking at what my camber options are I would prefer less than what sigma arms give you but if that is the only option than if I want camber that's the way I will have to go I basically want to do everything in one go bushes shock inserts springs everything My car had a pretty horrible combo cut springs flipped leaves fecked shocks and a locked diff I'm sure you can imagine how uncomfortable it was

I only gave her a couple of turns I am aware of active camber but I'm going to be replacing all the bushes and steering arms so want to figure out my camber options and do a proper alignment don't see the point in having more than 2neg cuz I'll just be destroing tyres And the car was already lowered 2inch but had flipped leaves and cut springs I've got 1 1/2 inch reset leaves with 2extra leaves 1inch blocks had the front eyes opened up a bit with custom kelpro bushes and nolathane shackle bushes so she's nice and stiff in the rear but sloppy in the front end

I read some where that ke25 LCA's are a couple mm longer but there wasn't enough info on the subject I don't mind changing LCA's I'd just prefer maybe 1 - 1 1/2 neg At the moment I've done the castor and I'm using a spare set of struts that I have cold pressed I chucked the ke on the aligner and I'm 0.4 neg And for springs I'm unsure car is currently lowered 2 1/2 inch front and back but has choppies in the front king springs only have a 30 mm lower option and where would I get camber tops do they have to be custom made Thanks tunsoffun

Hey guys just sorted all my rear suspension sorted out and I'm working my way onto the front been reading heaps on putting sigma LCA's into a ke30 for 2 - 2 1/2 neg which is a bit dramatic for a daily anything some one can recommend and what's involved to fit them

Ok guys having a little bit of confusion I have what I've been told a 70amp rx7 Bosch alt which was in my 4door ke30 and was running fine which I have taken out and I'm going to put in my ke30 2door Alternator But when I had a look the wiring loom is different between both my cars and looks like they have two different regs 2door reg 4door reg?? I read up on the vl alternator upgrade and was explained that you wire the terminal to the 2pin connector but my 2door has a 3 pin connector Has anyone come across this or have anykind of wiring diagram any help is appreciated guys Cheers

You wouldn't have a picture so I can see what there like?? I'm just worried a 175/60/r13 will look stupid ATM they have 205/60/r13 and that sounds like a fair difference to me If what ke70 Dave is saying a 185 will sit flush then 175 should only have a little stretch can some one clarify??

Haha haven't heard anyone say cheese cutters in a long time Those 155 are ridiculous

I don't mind something like this But don't want todrive out of tyre shop on these

Nah only costing me $60 a tyre

I did try that tyre stretch site They sit flush with the guards I don't need to have them stretched I just like the look of a little stretch and 175 was what i was suggested I don't want push bike tyres fitted to them Just wanted other opinions Normally when I get my tyres I just throw my keys at them tell them to put something that grips on them and go back to work Here is how the tyres sit

Hey guys been looking around I have a set of 13"x6.5 hotwires for my ke30 and was looking at putting a bit of stretch on them I tried that tyre stretch website but couldn't really find anything decent in my size Spoke to the tyre shop over the road he had a 175/50/R13 just wonderin what you guys run I don't want insane stretch just sumthin that looks a bit tidy under the guards Cheers guys

Really good anime I watched ages ago the series is only about 24 episodes or so but has plenty of action is claymore I really liked it was just a bit short for my liking but still pretty awesome

Hey guys been seeing a few rollas in the baulkham hills Quakers hill and seven hills area Been exchanging high beams and horn toots with a few just wondering if any of you blokes are on here maybe meet up some where local have a feed and a bull shit If your anywhere in the area let us know would like too see some fellow rollas Cheers Jaesn

Hahahaha I have the same whine in mine any idea on a fix??

I'm trying to find a cheap 4k to try this out want to dummy run it on another block before I try it on mine