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I used E2 as -ve lead on multimeter and IDL as +ve lead on multimeter. When you release the throttle I am sure it went to 0v.

I thought that next was to check the loom. Pulled it out last night and checked. Wires are exactly as per the wiring diagram I have. No shorts either. Checked all the earths as well. I couldn't see any issues with the wiring at all.

I setup the TPS as per that diagram using the ohms. There is another part in the same chapter in the manual I have that calls for checking voltages with IG S/W on. This is where I found the discrepancies.

Ok. I have setup the TPS as per the manual. Checked and double check all of the readings. I then checked the voltage as per the manual as well. IDL-E2 throttle open should be 4.5-5.5v. I am getting 12.3v. Issue 1 VTA-E2 throttle closed should be 0.5v. I am getting 0.65v. Issue 2 VTA-E2 throttle full open should be 3.5-5.5v. I am getting 4.15v. yeah VCC-E2 throttle any position 4.5-5.5v. I am getting 5.0v. yeah. I have also checked voltages at B ad B1 all good 12v. I have swapped both the computer and TPS. Still getting the same results. Anyone have any suggestions as what is causing this and how to fix it? The manual has got me this far??

Got the serviced and cleaned injectors back no change in the fault. Still having the same fault. I just disconnected the TPS and took the car for a drive. Just trying different things now. The issues are gone with the TPS disconnected. Looks like I may have found the problem. What is the best way to setup the TPS? Is the setting process the same for the bigport as the smallport? I only have a manual for he bigport. Any help in setting up the TPS correctly would be appreciated.

The TPS was setup as per the manual using feeler gauges between the throttle stop. Unless there is another way to setup the throttle? Got the injectors out and getting them serviced today.

It feels fine once it gets past the flat spot. If you give it a boot full thru all gears no hesitation, no lurching, no flat spot. It is only when you go gentle on the throttle an ease the acceleration. Only had it 5 months. Wasn't running 100% perfect when I got it. Wanted a hobby car. Trying to sort out all the little things I didn't like about it. Retuning it to a reliable car. I have not had it running perfectly since I purchased it.

Might have to try that around the manifold. Got a check engine light hooked up. Only code it is throwing is for the vehicle speed sensor 42. Unsure whether that would be causing it?? Is there any way to connect a vehicle speed sensor into an AE71??

I have double checked for vacuum leaks. Fitted new hoses, sealed around throttle cable bracket where they have put 2 bolts thru from the inside of the manifold to hold it. Only thing I haven't checked is if there is an inlet manifold gasket fitted. When I got it, I don't remember it having this issue. Air temp sensor wasn't connected either. Thermistor might have just been a broken wire on the plug from memory. I am positive that the spare computer I got from a wrecked 1992 SX Corolla with same motor part numbers of computers are both the same 89661-12420. The fuel pump is brand new. Redone that system a well. The old setup was really dodgy. I have also replaced the distributor cap and rotor button. Not sure if I am going to be able to check fuel pressure or air fuel mixture. Could it also possibly be the oxygen sensor?

I recently purchased a AE71 with 4AGE 100kw conversion. Wiring on the conversion was average to say the least which I have since rewired. Air temp sensor wasn't connected now connected, thermistor for cold start injector wasn't connected either now connected. All holes in the throttle body on the air filter side were filled with silicon and the throttle body had no idle adjustment. All sorted with a second hand throttle body. The issue I am having is the car seems to have a flat spot under light acceleration from 1500-2000 thru to 3000-3500rpm then acceleration hits hard. Try and push the throttle thru the flat spot and it will hit hard. Seems dangerous in the wet. Also whilst holding steady speed in all gears below between 2000 and 3000rpm, the car seems to be lurching back and forwards not holding a constant speed. I have noticed that when the car is cold these don't seem to happen. It only seems to start when the car is reaching normal operating temperature. I have changed the following items: * Compete set of brand new spark plug leads inc coil lead (car died on a test drive. turned out to be a coil lead) * New spark plugs platinum tipped BKR6EP-8 set at 0.8 mm * Brand new TPS. Set throttle body and TPS as per manual with feeler gauges and particular resistance readings * Swapped computers with no change. * Swapped coils with no change. * Set the ignition timing to either 10 deg btdc and 15 deg btdc no change. Tried to setup up with shorting terminals in diagnostic connector but it made no difference. * New fuel filters * I have also checked and there are no codes using CEL. I am sort of leaning towards either the water temperature sensor as it seems to happen when warm or the distributor. I disconnected the water temperature sensor and took I for a drive and it didn't make a difference. I am starting to run out of ideas. Anyone got any ideas?? It is starting to annoy me.

I have drained the gearbox and filled with the Castrol VMX-M 75-85w oil. It still has troubles in selecting gears when cold and on the odd occasions when up to temperature. I guess it is going to need either a new 2nd gear or selector.

I might have to try a different oil then. The one I am using was recommended on the Castrol site. Before I changed the synchros it wouldn't go into 2nd at all no matter how hard you changed. The only way to downshift was to slightly notch first gear then it would go into 2nd. Since i changed the synchros when it is cold it won't go into 2nd. When the gearbox warms up it will select 2nd 90% of the times. When it does work it doesn't feel smooth as any of the other gear changes. Stationary it seems to select the gears fine.

The oil I am using is Castrol EPX 80w-90. I was going to see if there is an additive that I could you that maybe able to help. The problem with some of the T50 from either an AE71 or AE86, unsure if they have been thrashed drifted or raced and may have the same issue I currently have. The other option would be too expensive as the car is a daily driver. No intention of racing this car. Do the synchros take time to wearin? They have only been fitted for 300ks.

Is there any differences between a 4A T50 and a T50 that suits a 2TGEU. I know the bell housing would be different. Will the 4A bolt up to the other version? Are there any other difference is should be aware of? I am in need of fixing the gearbox in my AE71. Has issues selecting 2nd gear when downshifting from 3rd gear? Bought the car like this 4 months ago. I have replaced all the synchros. It is better but still annoying.

Does anyone know if it possible to get any of the 100kw smallport 4age sensor plugs? Mainly after the green and brown water temp sensor and thermister plugs, black coil plug.