Taz_Rx

Oh and just realised I never posted any pics of the damage...

Had the junior mechanic on the job. Head on, and he helped me do valve clearances. It's looking more like an engine again now. Everything has been cleaned and painted again. Then once it's back in the car I'll give the alloy a polish again. Main changes this time are; Another half mm over (now 1mm from stock) Full balance New hdcb exedy - t18 200mm kit Pulling the 315cc injectors and dropping in some 550cc, since last time it was on the dyno we maxed them at 16psi

.... And just over a year on... 😲 There be progress!

I just gapped a set of rings for my 5k the other day. What clearance did you do them too? If you did it properly and they were fine sitting in the bores on their own then the problem must lie in the ring/piston combo! Got a set of verniers? Compare the ring depth to the groove in the piston.

You didn't get one of my copper em30's banjo?

Wondered if you ever used those

Nothing special. Just go to your local nuts and bolts store and it'll likely be a 10c fix!

Can't say it's not consistent! Make a good dial in racer

Just go to foamland Murray St

It would just need 2 leaf spring perches welded on in the right spot

Yes there is a couple of lurkers haha

I'll just aim for fastest manual K! Haha

Good work mate. Looking forward to seeing out on the roads soon. We might have to rouse up a few Rollas for an inauguration cruise for you haha

Yes it might fit. But if the radiator isn't up to the task all that is going to happen is the thermostat will fully open a little earlier and still overheat.

I don't you're getting Dave's point. Factory thermostats were designed to run within the optimal temperature range of the engine. If you want to 'push' said engine past what you deem normal operation and create more heat, this isn't a problem for the thermostat, it's a problem for the radiator. Think about in terms of a thermostat is a heat pump. You want your room at a comfortable 20°. What's going to get there quicker more effectively? The heat pump in the big lounge room or the one in the closet!?

I like engine masters... Even if it is all V8 based. Starting watching them after I worked my way through every roadkill episode lol

Well I'm about to start pulling an engine and box again for the second time in 2 months.

Sometimes the cable will stretch over time and you don't notice so much with a worn old clutch. You might need some extra spacing where the cable comes through the fire wall. You need the cable relatively tort when the pedal isn't depressed.

∆ on a flywheel that has had a slipping clutch it can get glazed up and not give the best surface for a new clutch plate. With an aggressive clutch ie button you will also get wear similar to a brake rotor so machining becomes essential.

You shouldn't really be putting a new clutch in without getting the flywheel refaced

No you need a ke30/55 one unless you want to cut the tunnel back

As per text already 0.5 over. Very much hoping bores are all good

No. Still runs on 3. Guessing maybe a melted/cracked piston. Is my own stupid fault.

.... And now the slipping clutch is the least of my worries.... As I've just blown the motor. Note to self, don't go hard on an inadequate tune maybe.

Yeah mate all full. Still got some tuning to do, but due a rough double of the old fuel map is running pretty good. .... Brand new bluesteel clutch kit that's slipping on first drive... Not so good.