Taz_Rx

By your grammar i'm guessing you're not an aussie, but if you are and for other members I've found the cheapest place to get oil (and some other things) is super cheap auto! The last bottle of castrol stuff I bought was cheaper retail than my local bursons wholesale price. Buying power!

Well spacers are actually illegal if they are factory fitted. Those falcon rtv utes have them as well.

Carters don't really need to be mounted below the tank level as they're self priming. Much nicer pumps than say holleys imho.

Sprung. They use to do solid one as well but discontinued them about the time I got mine..... Speaking of which I've had it for about 5 years now!

I don't mind it now I'm well used to it, but I did have a button clutch in my mazda for years before getting it so was already used to them. Pretty tight and grabby especially when married to a lightened flywheel but not as badly on/off as they're sometimes may out to be. On the other hand another launy rc member put one behind his k-t and really hated it. he ended up getting the full face hd plate instead within a week iirc.

Exedy also do a button clutch. That's what I have behind mine and has held over 120-130kw

12.9 wasn't obviously k powered though i assume?

What engine us that mark? Side exit vent and 4 bolts holding tappet cover down! :hmm:

Not really, everything is pretty quick and easy. Forgot to put adjusting tappets on the list though. Radiator takes about 5 minutes and all oil, water and fuel lines are speedflow.

I've done 14.5 with an estimated 120rwkw. Will be interesting to see how an auto compares.

That's pretty much a lazy 2 hours with a couple of smoke breaks....interruptions from missus and kid, you know the deal lol. I got've all the manifolds, turbo and dump pipe already bolted up to the head, its so much easier to do it that way than in the car when you've got the head off. The stud next to number 3 ex port is an absolute bitch. So my list really just consist of: Drop head etc on and torque down Get under it and do the oil return, 1 water line and the exhaust Couple of fuel lines Wiring loom on Cooler and intake pipes Radiator in and fill Buy new plugs and put them in knock 5 degrees out of the whole map until I get it tuned Start! ....so really less than an hour solid. LOL

The b = twin carbs A 2tc is only single carb

So I've got about 2 hours worth of work to get it back on the road. Head has gone from 33cc to 23cc chambers. Hopefully get it tuned some time next week.

Is it a 5k head with hydro lifters or something else?

Make that any toyota let alone ke ;)

Tried giving the starter a whack with a hammer while holding the key on start?

Just do a google image search for 2tg and see if that's what you remember seeing.

I've bought individually nuts from a wheel shop a few times before for between $2 & $4!

The rubber stuff the window slides is called "flocking". If you search on that you should be able to find an old thread of mine, I got some from rare spares I from memory noted what car out was from as they didn't have stuff specifically for a corolla. As for the heater controls, I doubt they would snap. Stock your head under the dash and follow the cables, you might find one has come unclipped. What exactly makes you think one isn't working anyway?

To give accurate advice on the conversion you really need to tell us what the 1600cc motor is! Converting to a carb fed 2tg would be a lot easier and cheaper than a fuel injected 4age!

Best looking 4age I've ever seen! :P

40mm would be half the head....maybe 40 thou? Have a read of "how to build a tough k motor" in the faq ;)

Are you sure you put the clutch plate in the right way round?

Some hiluxs have 5x114, which would give you 5 stud and a diff upgrade in one. As for the front if you're crafty enough you could convert the struts to some thing like s4/5 rx7, s14/s15 or even falcon which would all give you 5x114 at the front too.

need to remove gearbox, clutch and flywheel. Would also be much easier to do with the engine out of the car.