Taz_Rx

I've bought single taps before from our local 'nuts and bolt' so try your local fasteners store. You're going to need a 'blind tap' for that too btw.

I probably wouldn't mount it in the engine bay. I more so meant you can mount it anywhere in the boot, higher than the tank if you want. Its not like its really hard to write up a relay and run a single wire to the boot! ;)

Holleys are push so need to be mounted low so they are gravity fed from the tank. You'll probably need to prime it when you first get it running. This is another reason I like Carters as they can suck and prime themselves as well as push. Try an inline restrictor, might help. There is no pressure pushing the oil out of the turbo hence why it needs a free flowing down hill return.

Wonder if something like this could help.... http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/221386638898?nav=SEARCH I imagine it would be a good idea used with the map sensor though as it could 'dumb down' the ecu's live tuning capability. Thinking about it tbh I think I would be more concerned about the effect on the brake booster than the boost guage! You could isolate it by using something like this.... http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/131097543105?nav=SEARCH You can also get cheap plastic ones. For a laugh search for 'vacuum enhancer' on Ebay lol.

You might be able to use one of those little in line filer things like what's on Ke70 anti pollution setups. Don't recon it would blow much fuel up there anyway as its effectively a dead end.

You could get a porno pretty much anywhere, dare say Ebay might be the cheapest. A simple carby reg wouldn't be a bad idea, not sure what pressure su's like (waits for Altezza to pipe in lol). What are your valve stem seals like? Smoke could be the turbo. Do you have a nice big hose on the oil drain? And have it on a nice down hill slope to the sump?

Ohh and btw reluctor = electronic

Nah buddy, the btm negates the need to lock the dizzy. The stock mechanical advance works as per normal for off boost operation, then when you get boost the btm will retard as required...or set. Now with a 6a they also act as an igniter, so you could run an external igniter electronic dizzy and have the 6a do the job of the ex igniter. The thing I'm not sure about is weather your 6(no a)btm also does the job of an igniter. Some reading on the msd website should tell you that. Hmmmm, the guys are right in saying that a non-resistor setup will burn out the points quickly.... But what I'm just thinking is maybe the fact you have the msd in the system will mean you could run a full 12v (gt40) without quickly burning out the coils - the same way in which an igniter in an efi system grounds the charge so its not discharged through the ecu and blowing it up. Ie... Points trigger msd - msd discharges to ground and fires coil - mechanical advance does its thing and finally the btm part retards a required while on boost.

Yep sure will

I used a Crc type product once but the effect didn't last long. Grease would probably be a better option.

Its it hard to pull or push the lock by hand? You might need to lube the mechanism if there is too much load on the solenoid.

When I had this type of fuel setup with my carby turbo kit (vl pump) I ran the power feed for it through a ballast resistor to drop the pressure and flow a bit. Then removed it when I went efi. Its hardly worth the effort for 6-8 psi! Get 15 up it and you'll forget all about 4age!

As above....that's most likely your issue. Holley red or a Carter green would be plenty. Don't get a facet unless you like the sound of a can full of marbles.

What do you have in the way of a fuel system? And I did warn you re cable ties! ;)

Just run an efi main pump like a vl turbo pump, otherwise you'll end up changing it for you efi 4age, the ref will bring it back down in pressure for the carb. There its a low pressure carby rr ref available but I'm interested to see just how low you can wind an efi down. The Webber will happily take 10 odd psi of fuel pressure. Your return line should go back into the surge tank. Turbo choice doesn't sound too bad, you might not believe me but I personally think t25's are getting a little on the small size for a 4/5k. Stock motor will also happily take around 15 psi if tuned well. The fun doesn't really start until at least 10 psi. Lol

It shouldn't move at all. Its ok to leave the vac advance operational, although its not really needed with that much static timing. Its a bit hard for it to add anything on boost! :P Ohh and the gap should be fine at .8mm

Well just to confuse you, I'd say knock it up to 25° like I originally said. Standard gap should be fine, but changing to b7es plus wouldn't be a bad idea.

As for gaskets I only run genuine Toyota hg's now. Stu (Kickn5k) its also trying to organise an arp head bolt group buy so if that happens it could be worth jumping in. Neither are essential but if you want done piece of mind I would suggest. You can also do some research on trying to make a boost retard solenoid to replace the vac advance one on your dizzy.

Exactly. Don't use cables ties lol. Did that once, after a few months they snapped and wound in an extra 40 odd degrees. Hg didn't like that much lol Couple of tack welds on the weights also works if you or a mate has a mig.

Nah with a LOCKED dizzy, so the timing is always 25°. Ie you need to tie up the mechanical advancement weights so they can't move. It might make it a little hard to start on cold mornings though, a decent sized battery is a must! The btm would be the way to go but they are like $600

Well there's your hg blowing problem then! You CANNOT just run standard old timing with a turbo motor. Back in the good old carby turbo days I ran a locked dizzy at 25°. A bit better solution would be an msd 6al btm. I now have ecu controlled ignition timing so its not an issue for me. With my 8.5:1 c/r I can still screw in 28° @ 18 odd psi! :D

So pretty much completely stock timing? That was just a Permaseal cheapy then, always use genuine Toyota now.

You shouldn't need 2 head gaskets. I've run over 20 psi on a stocko 4k and not blown one. If you're blowing them it means your timing need some looking at. What have you done in the way of timing?

The twin outlet exhaust manifold flow a bit better than the singles imho. Not really any other heads worth puttingon a 3k. Maybe a 3k big port but they're a bit overrated.

Its still only one wire too the boot from the ecu (provided you have power in there) you just need to wire the relay differently. ;)