Taz_Rx

Thanks heaps buddy! :y:

Is ebay trying to tell us something!?........

In Hobart at the moment so would have been a bit of a long drive lol. Thanks anyway though. Yeah heated the gasket with the oxy, yeah candefinitely feel the difference if you just try and bend it a little. Got it all back together yesterday morning after a trip to sca, goes pretty much the same.... Comes on slightly earlier and pulls a little harder in the top end. Will come into its own though when I get it on the rollers again for some more boost.

Hey mate that resistor is 250v and 0.22uF but something close to that should do.

Half way through fitting it now.... Wondering where I might be able to find some gasket goop at this time of the night. :hmm:

I highly doubt it would be suitable for an exhaust gasket though! I've bought one through Bursons before. Did you also consider just getting one from Toyota?

He had to take it out of the box for a look when it arrived. Think he's looking forward to getting it on a much as I am lol.

Got this a couple of weeks ago, should hopefully get it fitted up in the next few days.... S15 bb T28. Just need a set of bigger injectors (nudge wink lol) and I can get it back on the rollers for some 20+psi action.

Well when somebody says 'twin downdraft' they would normally mean twin carb.... Whereas you are referring to a twin throat carb.

Yeah right...maybe I just had some dodgy ones. Ohh well long gone now. They are still farken heavy though.

How does the balance of those wheels feel?

I don't know where you're getting the idea that an rx3 its disc rear? They are definitely drum and a tiny diff at that...hardly big enough for the 10a or 12a they were behind. Just because an rx3 is leaf spring doesn't make it the easy option either. I could pretty much guarantee that you'd have to cut the mounts off and move them, so of you're going to do that you might as well do it to a strong, already disc rear end... Ie r31... Which would be handy in the back...not the front! If you do a little research around here you'll find there are much better front strut upgrades from the Toyota family. You'll also find many options of break upgrades on said struts. I also suggest you have that conversation with a turbo expert so you can move on from the idea of twins if you won't believe what people here have told you. There's a reason why people put big singles on jz's and rb26's ;)

I've got a commonwhore radiator just like that one in mine. Works great and cheap as hell!

That's not bad considering you've probably added a bit of weight with the IRS and the small steel playground in the cabin! How much weight do you think you added just in the cage material?

...or a wombat, they're like hitting a sump! When I'm on a PC (or another mod) I'll/we'll merge this into your other thread.

Should only need 3 wires - trigger... in your case ignition output 1, coil negative, and ground. When the ecu grounds the trigger wire the module/igniter should open the coil negative terminal to the ground. Knowing that much you should be able to test it with a multimeter. An igniter is effectively just a fast switching, high current, earthing relay. If you connected the negative side of the coil directly to the ignition output the coil would discharge through the ecu and fry it.

Yeah resistor not capacitor sorry. The little yellow thing you can see in some pics. So still no pulse with the drill then?

Yeah ignition output 1. Not surprised you don't have a signal.... As you currently don't know the configuration of the trigger. You could try spinning it faster in a drill as I mentioned earlier. Fyi I also have a capacitor across my ignition input wires. Can tell you how many micro farad when I'm back with my car in another week or so.

There's no power to the dizzy, was recalling what my wolf wiring was and thinking microtech might have been the same. Come to think of it mine its just trigger and ground too, didn't need to use the 5v power in the ignition input loom. If I ever get around to wiring up my custom k cas then I will need to use it.

As I said... "without looking at the wiring diagram".... Now I've seen it I can tell you it would be crank input 1 and the ground in the same plug wired to the dizzy. Use a multimeter to find out which is which on the dizzy. You'll only get a beep with the positive of the multimeter on the wire that connects to the crank input. Remember to close the air gap up to about 20 thou first though otherwise you might struggle to get a reliable pulse to the ecu.

You say this started after you wired up a tacho.... Are you sure you haven't accidentally earthed the write to the tacho somehow? As that could sap all of the power out of the coil!

Decent capacitor would be a good start!

I highly doubt any oil could get past the thread of the spark plug, especially if you've over tightened them. I too had the same pooling issue, tried swapping tubes from other motors but only managed to fix it with some new genuine items.

Is that seriously as much info as you're going to give us!? Where's one of those face palm gif's when you need one!

Without looking at the wiring diagram, 5v signal and ground on the ecu. Connected to the 2 wires from the dizzy. Use a multimeter connected to the dizzy and spin it to see which is which, you'll only get a beep connected one way.