Taz_Rx

I tried to keep up with him once. Ended like this....

Oh and the Caldina is such a trooper, I love it. Dirt jumper on the roof (didn't feature in video) and I was able to get 3 kids, 3 race bikes and me inside!

Parrot to put Byron's riding into context, this was immediately after Sunday's club racing (why the other 2 are in their Yess gear)... and after a full day at Blue Derby on Saturday. The dirt jumps are over 30 years old, community build on high school land. The high had now just paid to have that added.

Mentioned my son's channel last week. Thought I'd throw it up here instead of spamming in someone's tech thread. 😝

North of the state got dumped on a few nights ago. Didn't come quite as low down this way. No snow on the trails but this is my current view of Kunanyi...

Ooh I didn't know you were a mountain biker Stu! Byron and I are off to Derby tomorrow. We normally spend most weekends these days doing dirty jumps somewhere. You've probably never seen his YouTube channel....I don't exactly plug out here.

... and a mote haha

Pfft.... we've got trout 😉

Haha you're starting to get it. I stated with the polished tappet cover as everyone does.... then the timing cover... thermostat housing.... the 7ke manifold (which must have been about 100 hours all up!).... alternator, dizzy housing, oil cooler plate.... intercooler, cooler piping... my ls1 coil brackets. Then I start making new bits like the thermo fan brackets.... it just never stops! 😉 Just like paint, a really good polished finish is all in the prep. Get it as smooth as possible. The actual polish bit should only be the last 5 minutes of work. Fyi, I prefer cream polish. I actually like to apply and rub it in with my bare hands. Just keep rubbing until your hands are nice and black. Wipe off the excess then rub as fast as you can with an old towel or the like.... or a buffer if you have one. I used the do a bit of casual work years ago at a place called 'The Car Artist' who was really busy doing all kinds of body kits back in the late 00's when fat and furious was popular. Most of my days were spent wet rubbing primed panels. I seriously did end up with bleeding finger tips, and yes... rarely had finger prints.

Haha nice work. The real shine come out with some 2000 wet until your finger tips bleed 🤣

Careful!!.... it's a slippery slope when you start polishing alloy 🙄😂

Oh and fyi, I don't run my 13b bridge port on anything more than 91 because the compression and timing doesn't justify anymore! She's an old school IDA job.

I depends a lot on the car and the market it was designed for also. My ex once bought a Peugeot 405 mi16. She ran it on 95 and used to get around 500km from a tank. Switched to 98 and started getting over 800km to a tank!! Should have known better from the start being a euro, but this was just as 98 was becoming readily available. My Caldina is also very specific about only running 98, being a Japanese import.

While still in the car?

Whatever the value is doesn't really matter... other than the fact that's your max advance because no ECU can see into the future 😉

Love this project! It's kinda like Binky... but way faster... and no funk.

I had to resurrect an old tank when I removed my fuel cell for mod plating. I used a 2 step process... 1 I put a good few hand fulls of blue metal in the tank with some petrol and shuck the shit out of it. That removed any loose scale etc. Put a while bottle of CLR (Yes the old tv ad stuff) in the tank and let it sit in different positions over a few days. That left it sparkling inside! Fyi looks like you're putting you're aftermarket level sensor in exactly the same place I did.

Oh, and I just got an SR cas plug off eBay for like $20...

I like the idea of machining up your own new housing to mount the sensor. That way it doesn't really matter what dizzy you use! I wouldn't do it to the electronic one you bought. Just find some old points dizzy some one will give you for free. All you really need is the bottom end of the shaft (and still able to drive the oil pump) and the boss where the whole thing gets clamped down. Then weld, or a nice machined slip fit housing to go over the top. Fit the sensor (that's not real hard there's pics of it in my build thread, I just made up a little adapter plate) and weld the top of the SR shaft to the bottom of the k one. Raid the pantry for a lid (the spun steel on mine is a coffee jar lid 😂) and you're done!!

Yes it was the bigger Bosch housing and I'm running a Wolf 3D v4. But old and antiquated but it does the job. My triggering is set up as dual pulse. The stock SR20 disc has 4 slots in it, which get bigger as it goes through a rotation. My ECU uses the leading edge of these slots (So it doesn't vary) with an additional hole I drilled in the disc at #1. That gives the ECU it's 'home' signal. Remember when using CAS/ camshaft trigger it's only 360°.

I used SR20 internals in the k dizzy housing. Looks just like the module pictured above. Never had the slightest issue with it since fitting.

Shortly mate. Shed cleaned up, car in position for some loving!!

Well here's today's load. Destined to become our next batch of planter boxes...

Good place to start... https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

Yep.... that's all it's about 😏 Hopefully it doesn't come to that. Although another full bottom end rebuild could correct my balance! ... and give me the opportunity to throw in the other new bits. Last resort.