Taz_Rx

you don't have to buy them back if you don't need them!!! I'll just sell them on here for what I paid for them if they are no use to you matt!!! I'm sure someone with be putting a new cam in a 5k and will want solids sooner or later. lemme know. :abuse: so is there any reason why I can't just use the cam, my 4k lifters, refaced and just the standard push rods??? I spoke an old skool mechanic yesterday who I know quite well and he is going to do it for me, with my assistance, and also show me the finer points of "cammage"!!! :dance:

just had a read through a bit of the FAQ. found the bit about the 5k's having hydraulic and 4k's already having solids. so I could just use the standard 4k solid lifter?? ok, so theres info there about degreeing the cam, I just wanna know a little more about swapping them. ie, is there bearings on each end that need to be pressed on and off? do I need to remove the lifters before taking the cam out so they don't all drop into the sump or something?? etc etc...... :dance: jeez, gimme a bridge port anyday!!!! :D

no its a 4k, thats why I checked that the 4/5k cams were the same'ish before I bought it!! whats "the way most do it"??

ditto :D ....mind you its still quite fuel efficient *off boost*!!!! :dance:

hey did you try sending me a PM the other day?? cause I had the email notification, and said it was you, but didn't have a PM!!

Hi Matt, Got the cam yesterday. Changing a cam is something I have never done before and have no real idea how!! Do you think its something that I should try doing myself, and that I would not have much trouble doing, cause I am somewhat mechanically knowledgable?? Or should I just take it to a mechanic?? If you thing that I may be able to do it myself, would you be able to give me a bit of run down on what is involved btw, did you do this whole 202 push rod thing that I have read about or just used the standard ones?? thanks, Si. ***since this msg is now a thread not a PM, if someone else can explain the the cam swap for me that'd be great!!??***

hey matty there a ke30 with a banjo round at steve order's!!! but no doubt he will want like a billion dollars for it!! :dance:

firstly check the ho9se between the manifold and the booster....it could be a bit loose and will just need a tighten. and also check for any splits in the hose. next, check the 1 way valve in that line. take it out and blow and suck on it to make sure its doing its job properly. if both of those things don'e fix it, then get a new booster. :D as far as the carby goes, the 626 nikkis will go straight onto a standard corolla manifold. but depending on the model you may need to grind/file down one of the bolt holes on the manifold. (think its one of the ones that the air cleaner bolts on with.) one of my mates has a ke55 with the 2lt jetted 626 nikki, runs fine!! :dance:

they look like series 1 rx7 wheels!?? :)

Ooh, its already off!!!! yeah thats were I mean. check the three bolt holes around it and make sure there isn't any bolts snapped in it. the closest one to the engine is the most common to snap, the back 2 you should be able to see daylight looking through them from memory.

haha, you probably forgot about the americans cruising the site!! :)

I can weld up the air recirculation bit for you, just get an exhaust shop etc to get those 3 hot box bolts out in 1 piece for you. :)

nah wrong flange. I'm talking about were the exhaust manifold and inlet maifold are bolted together. the ke70 ones have the stupid hot air recirculation shit on them, so what i did was use my ke55 inlet with the ke70 exhaust and welded up the outlet for the air researc. they're the 3 "hot box" bolts I'm talikng about. you can see the welded recirc thing in this pic.

yeah merc C111 concept. its actually a MR not a 4wd. had 3 and 4 rotor wankels. I just put some more info about them in the "wackiest engine conversion" thread. your turn Mr Hardware!!

would probably be looking a around $100-$150 for a decent mandrel steam pipe J. obviously this could be cheaper if it was press bent or made from mild steel, but it you're gunna do it you might aswell do it properly to start with, unlike me!!! :) that side of the engine is pretty cramped for room being a pre cross-flow engine, and also having the alternator and starter motor on that side aswell. heat wouldn't really be an issue. you could move the turbo a bit closer to the engine than what mine is, but this would also give you issues in trying to get an exhasut off the back of it!!! the only hassles in putting it were the battery is is relocating it to the boot and running new wiring for that. also there is a little bit of wiring that runs down that side of the engine bay, that would become pretty close to some hot exhaust. I have hidden all of this wiring and run it through the guard. If you have a look a few pages back at boost+k's setup you will see he has made a metal heat guard to protect this wiring. btw, with the ke70 exhaust manifold, be bloody carefull trying to get the bolts out that bolt it to the inlet manifold cause they can snap REALLY easy because of the heat they have been under. I would highly recommend actually taking it to an exhaust shop and getting them to heat it with an oxy and take it out slowly. then go and get yourself a new "hot box" gasket from somewhere and bolt it to your ke30 inlet. when I had mine apart I actually re-tapped the holes in the exhaust manifold and bought new high tensile bolts for my own piece of mind. :(

yeah too small for a 3k still, they flow a litre of ags on a 1g! get anything from an engine of 1500cc to 2000cc. so a nissan turbo such as an s13/14 t25, t28, exa or ET turbo. a subaru 2 litre turbo, ie tdo4 (which is going on the other launy 4k i spoke about) or to stick with toyota stuff even something like a ct16 off a 3tgte- there a guy in hobart with one for sale. step 1: get a turbo.... step 2: get a j-pipe made up.... step 3: everything else!!! :)

try boosted with a CIG locker!!!!!!!!!! :)

its a "Renault 4" :) the ansewr to this one can be found with a quick serach of rollaclub!!! :(

fuel line: has a hollow threaded rod about 30mm long that is clamped in by a nut on either side of it with a bit of gasket goop. rubber lines them go over that to the carby on the inside and the reg on the outside. cable: has a rubber washer on either side, inside the adjuster bolts on the threaded part of the cable sheath. it does leak a little bit of boost up the inside of the cable sheath, but nothing noticable, i've got a bit of the clearish boost guage line inside the sheath and the the cable runs through that just to try and minimise the gap there.

whenever I register it!!! :( a square box would actually be easier to use, ie, getting fuel lines and espeacially a throttle cable to it. mine sorta pulls around a corner. you would probably need to get something custom made however, unless you can find something suitable in a wreckers etc. I just wanted something that would be cheap and relatively easy with an "air tight seal", but ended up having a few dramas makeing this seal "boost tight"!!! :)

so are you trying to say mine looks shit!!?? :) its just a hilux air filter box that i cut and shut to do the job.

by putting the carby inside a closed box like I have, it has the same pressure on the outside of the carby as what it does on the inside. this way boost will not leak out of the gaskets etc. you certainly can just put a box on top of the carby, but it would need boost modifying.

yeah that was too easy, want some more jap old skooler pics??

ah....ahhh....AAAHHHH.....turbo it!!!! :)

since st. nick hasn't put one up yet...... oh, and btw, if you can't tell its not a mazda!!! hehe