Taz_Rx

Morning cold starting have got pretty bad lately. Managed to get it a fair bit better by swapping back to my reduction gear starter after a partial refurb, the motor contact circuit across the back of the solenoid was a but grotty so I gave that a clean up and its been pretty good for the last week. Hoping it doesn't start doing its old fault again which was just ticking after getting got. Also pulled the reluctor sensor out of the dizzy, gave it a clean up, slight file and sand a well as the 4 posts and reset the gap. Has all been working fine until trying to start it this morning at 1°c. So I've finally got around to doing some testing on this cas. First issue was the fact the stanza obviously spins its dizzy anti clockwise when a k one spins clockwise. Issue is the big window, if left the leading edge of that pulse would be 3-4° out. Pretty easy fix though, just flip the disc, after drilling a new key way hole in it. Then drilled the dual pulse hole, wired it up how I thought it went and stuck it in the cordless drill for testing. The trigger was very touchy, sporadic and saw it peak up to over 10000 rpm a couple of times. As it was by this stage midnight I left it for the night. the next day I decided to try wiring the trigger up to what I thought was the 360 pulse wire. Stuck it back in the drill and tried again....success!! Could get a steady pulse a low as 63 rpm (low as the drill would spin) but coil didn't fire until around 150 rpm. I did take a couple of vida of the hand controller but I'll have to upload those later. So really happy that I've got it working, one big step towards a sequential setup. What I wasn't happy with was what I discovered next..... When I was testing in the drill I noticed a bit of a wobble, felt like it had a bent shaft. Removed the shaft and stuck it in the drill again....it looked/felt nice and straight! So I think the issue might in fact be a slightly unaligned housing when the stanza top was welded to the k lower half. I'm hoping a mate with a lathe might be able to help me rectify this by cutting them apart again, ensuring the edges are flat and square and welding them back together. That'll mean the top of the shaft will need some machining to shorten it a little but I can deal with that. After a bit more tinkering I'm now pretty sure that the previous owner of this had never actually used it after making it for several reasons. 1 - the wobble. 2- the o ring was far too big to fit in the block and 3-the end of the shaft is very tight fitting into the top of the oil pump. Hopefully all of these issues can be fixed with the lathe and a few beers.

No it just had a normal internal reg one on it.

Are you aware Ke70 water pumps have a different pcd and offset to 55 ones? 12" thermo might just be easier....actually wasn't there an old thermo in the box of stuff I gave you. Its a push fan not pull btw so would need to go on the front of the rad....Hmm but might not fit cause of the a/c condenser.

I have a pulley puller. When I drop shocks off next week we could whip the pulleys off both motors. Recon you'd need to take the radiator out so there is room to get the 4k one off though.

Bang the timing up to 25° with the boost you're running. If its difficult to start or pings at all, back it off bit by bit until it doesn't. Have you found out anything more about the haltech Austin mentioned?

Just don't burn out those valves! ;)

Pm me your mobile number and I'll text a pic. Can't upload to here on my phone.

Was I but easy when I told you I sold it a few hours before you posted that lol

There's a little bracket that joins the 2 together. Think I've got one floating around in a tool box actually.

Good idea....but, I can for 1 see you having issues fitting them on the bolts which mount both the inlet and ex manifolds (4 of the 6) and 2 accessing the centre lower 2 under the manifolds. Being an alloy head you're much better off using studs rather than bolts as you run the risk of stripping out the holes in the head. You're right in the fact you can get a lot more torque on an Allen key cap screw....but that only increases the chances of the above. Been there, done that! You should be able to get a decent mount out of the original studs and nuts, with the aid of some lock tight. If not the next best option would be "cone lock" nuts, but be prepared to swap out studs each time you remove them as they can eat up the thread a bit on removal.

On what motor?

Good to see its up and running mate. Got mine in launy at the moment, we'll have to have a boosted k drive lol

Highly doubt that given his engine build

Just use some "knead it" epoxy putty. Its says its for use fixing fuel tanks and radiators. I've successfully used it before on a radiator and fixing a leaky oil return line.

Completely different in design and mounting as the wagon ones fold up.

You can also measure it with a dial guage with the head off. Just zero it sitting on top of the number one lifter. That's what i did when i dialled mine in. Just remember to take the valve clearance into account.

Remember the crank shaft does 2 laps for every one lap of the Cam. From memory the mark on the crank cog needs to essentially point towards the mark on the Cam cog (central one) and vice versa. Pretty sure there is a mark under the crank cog too. Iirc each hole on the Cam cog should give you 6° advance or retard. PS did you get your Cam today?

is that a kc or ke? e's have water lines to the idle control solenoid which is right about were that hose is pointing.

sure does

Forget 12a's, they're too hard to find parts for now. Mazda has stopped making housings etc for them. As for n/a vs turbo 13b it depends weather you want a relatively smooth turbo motor with the potential to make a shite load more power or an old school angry sounding large ported n/a screamer!?

Yeah you would have to machine way too much off it. Really though, what the point when an exedy button will hold over 120rwkw. You also don't need to reface the contact area bigger and re-drill holes when you can get 200mm (km20/km36) and 212mm (kr42) flywheels..... But then you need the bell housing that accompanies them too....

That would be a good idea.... If it would fit inside the bell housing. I tried using a 200mm t18 with my k-t and the pressure plate fouled on the indent for the clutch fork. Only a 180mm kit well fit inside a k bell.

First page.... http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w30/gtotigersaustralia/ke26/102_2688.jpg 12A's and rx4/rx5 13b's are front mounted s4 onwards is side mounted...although he has front mounted this one.

It had a plug on it that clipped into the pedal, made like very easy. I did have to get the other end shortened (cable only) with a new lead on the end. Its long enough to go round behind the motor, under the fuel rail and then do a 180 to connect to the throttle body. Without doing the 180 I reckon the end of the cable could nearly touch the radiator support panel.

Nothing spacial, just ask for a 3k timing chain at your local parts shop. The 3k should be a double. Get yourself a timing gasket set while you're there.