Taz_Rx

If the carby doesn't fit on your manifold you could just put the Ke70 manifold on too. Btw, post some pics of your ride!

E7 or xE7x = Ke70, ae71, te70 etc chassis ;)

An external brace won't do shit, everything is simply too small for that much power.

You answered your own question/statement re the Ke70's... What someone its willing to pay. The whole drift craze has pushed the price on an ae86 to what some people think is excessive, and unattainable for some...so the next best option is a Ke70....and now the same thing has happened with the price of them.

More than likely. Not sure if you can easily bypass the internal?

Is your dizzy internal igniter? Cause the cdi is essentially an igniter.

Should be nothing wrong with a stocko bp5ey

Thread bump.....here I was thinking it was an update! :P

If you've got the room and happy to make a few small mods you could always look at getting a v6 commodore one like mine. I bought a brand new one from Repco earlier in the year for $126. They had it in stock. You will also need a new top hose, I used a generic flexible hose which was $60.

What is it? I wouldn't mind replacing my noisy malpassi

You don't need a rising rate reg for draw through, carb isn't under pressure.

You going to do the same thing for the 25 now Matt? Should be purchasing some ls1 coils at the end of the week hopefully, then just gout work out how to mount them. Would like to mount them upright on a bracket like one of these... http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/360879151597?nav=SEARCH ...I'll make my own. Will be easy to mount it off the back of the timing cover at the front of the motor but there really isn't much to mount off at the back end of the block. Just that 1 big bolt that normally has a lifting hook on it.

Yeah when you look straight down into the top of it it almost looks like its supposed to be there. If I made another one (maybe when we make one for Leigh lol) there's a couple of things I'd do slightly differently which would make it a little tidier, but overall I'm pretty happy. Especially when all I really paid for it was $50 (for a complete sr20 cas) and a 6 pack for the machining! :D

So I don't need to type it again ;) ...... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/23062-leighs-ke55-5kze-now-megasquirted/page__st__225

Oh well you're better off with those plus anyway. Still reckon you've reached the limit of those injectors, maybe just drop the 7m ones in and start again. Is the reg a Malpassi? They are notoriously noisy, I'm about ready to swap my out for a Sard or something. Does it sound like a cricket it the engine bay?

So hacked a big hole where the vac advance diaphram attaches.... made up an adapter plate to mount the sr20 sensor... it screws into the holes for the vac advance plate... then gave it to a fellow rolla owning machiner who welded the top of the sr20 shaft to the k shaft at the right length..... he also machined up a teflon cap for it. i might paint it before final assembly.....

Test vid. Can hear injectors pulse and see #1 output sparking....

Just tested custom cas mk2. Nice steady pulse from 47 rpm! Will get some pics of the new unit and another test vid up soon.

When you say "shorten there life span" are we talking blow motors... Or head gaskets? Without doing something about timing you're just asking for trouble. My project thread is here.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/10940-sis-5kte-ke55/page__pid__687015__st__990#entry687015 Go back to page 1 and gave a look at some of my early carby turbo kits. My original 4k was bog stock which then later got a Camtech 609 being about the only real mod. That used to cop about 12 psi daily and was only removed when I up graded to a 5k. That motor is still actually going in n/a form in my other corolla. My current 5k is essentially a stock bottom end, d dish pistons, turbo cammed, ported 4k head shaved 120 thou (compression is about 8.5:1), 7ke injection, custom exhaust manifold, ball bearing t28. That's a very brief list, check the thread for full parts list. That was a few years back not long after efi was finished. Don't have the gilmer anymore.

Check out what some of the Puerto Rican's do with 3t's..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/16233-toyota-pics-from-puerto-rico/page__pid__536784__st__120#entry536784

Hey mate, I may be a bit biassed on this but definitely worth doing. Personally I think a well sorted 4k or 5k turbo with a decent amount of boost is actually quicker than a 4age. The motors are a lot strong than what a lit of people say (typically people who have never actually turbo'd one). Provided it is well tuned, particularly the ignition side of things you can run a fair bit of boost through them. Mine runs about 16-17 psi but I regularly spike to about 22 psi - my ecu has a data logger. I just about to make some major changes to my setup and get it running about 23 psi. To be honest the fun doesn't really start until about 10 psi. To answer so of your questions more specifically: I don't think it would be worth trying to cut and shut the intake manifold. The port spacings would be all wrong and the injectors would be right at the end of the et runners meaning you'd have to mount them in what's left of the k manifold...then you'd need a custom fuel rail. You would be much better off trying to source a 7ke manifold off a townace. Again with the exhaust manifold being cast iron it isn't really possible to cut and shut it. Custom made manifolds like mine can get pretty expensive, however a j-pipe setup (off a single outlet Ke70 manifold) relocating the turbo to where the battery normally sits can be done relatively easily and cheap. Just make sure its made of steam pipe not mild steel. Depending on what Cam you are using I personally think a t25 is verging on too small for a 4k or 5k. Use it in the meantime though and you can easily swap it out for something a bit bigger with the same flanges later on, eg a t28. The fuel system is relatively straight forward - same you would do for any efi motor swap. You'll have the fuel reg from the et too. Have a look through my project thread, I'm on my third turbo setup now, now with efi. Should be able to get some ideas on how to tackle a few things cheaply and how to get a little more serious as well. ;)

Yes the gear box will bolt straight up....but you'll have no drive as the ke10 gearbox has a smaller input shaft. I can't remember if the clutch diameter is smaller or not, don't think so, so you should be able to use either flywheel but with a Ke10 clutch plate.

Ohh ok what did you use? I tried using a small grinding wheel to go out to 3kbp size. Made a mess of it.

I hope you're not going to try and port match that 7kc manifold gasket? Being 3 layers the edges all bur up.

Fyi the 'insulator' between the pump and block isn't for heat insulation, it makes the throw of the pump arm correct onto the Cam. If you don't use it you'll snap the arm off the pump in a minute or 2. As above, might be a vacuum issue. Does it have a standard charcoal canister setup? If so maybe disconnect it for a minute so you know the tank can breath...or remove the fuel cap as above.