Taz_Rx

Pm inbound. For an old fat who types slow you definitely seem to know your way around the emoticon section! ;)

Hey guys, I've got a k-w bell with fork etc and a 200mm flywheel machined ready to go that I might be willing to let go for the right price. Fw is full weight though so freight might bit be that cheap.

You can kick the engine over a little bit, I have 9mm of shims under the passenger side mount as my waste gate its really close to the chassis rail. You can't go much more than that before you run out of thread on the stud. Remember it will also kick the shifter over towards you.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/43819-ke10-supercharged-5k/page__pid__695360__st__90#entry695360

If its tuned well and maintained it will take it, my motors have never been anything real spacial. With a t2 I reckon you'd be better off grabbing another cog than revving the date out of it.

Hehe, you think 10 is fun...wind it up to around 15-17! At least with the draw-through you don't have to worry about fuel pressure issues when upping the boost.

If its straight through with no muffler I would highly recommend putting one on. You'll be amazed what it will do for the mid range. When my old one snapped off, I gained maybe just a slight bit more flow right at the top of the rev range but it want worth what was lost in the mid. Got a new offset straight through put on a couple of weeks later and was really surprised what I was missing.

I found exhaust size and back pressure can make a fair bit of difference in mid range response and spool rate. What type of muffler do you have on the end of said 2.5" pipe?

Otherwise use some poly pipe from bunnings until Monday lol

Could try Autobahn...or maybe even supercheap, they have that sort of thing for mounting fully hetik pod filters on your commodore.

You'd probably be surprised at the similarity of capacity between a k and commodore radiator, the commodore one obviously does have a bigger surface area. Commodores do also run at quite a higher pressure and temp range. The thermo fan actually doesn't turn on until 103°! Another option is you could always just get a 3 row core grafted into the Ke10 end tanks. You probably wouldn't get much change from about $400 with that option though.

Yeah I did cut away a fair bit of the front panel to maximise the radiator, a bit of that was also to make way for the cooler and piping. After stripping the whole front end yesterday I was reminded how little was left lol. Btw after getting that rad out is amazing how much it bent and twisted without leaking!

Just measured my commodore one for you. Its about 700 wide by 480 high. I started having some issueswith heat when I first got my turbo 4k running well, the stock one just wasn't up to the job anymore. Have been running commo rads since and have always had good temps... Provided you use a thermo fan for stop start city traffic. They're really easy to fit in k's as the inlet/outlet are in the same spot, you just need a longer top hose. My first one developed an unfixable hole (from the way I mounted the thermo) so I ended up buying a new one from my local repro for $126....needed car back on the road asap and it was in stock. That's now bent from the roo I hit a couple of weeks ago so I'm going to get myself something like this.... http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/151387501551?nav=SEARCH

V6 commodore radiators are pretty easy to adapt. I might get around to removing mine tomorrow, if so I could get you a width...which I foresee would be your biggest issue in a Ke10. There's pics of mine in my project thread.

I could be wrong.... But wouldn't the weight of the diff really not have much bearing on the function of the rear sway bar, being unsprung weight?

....or jump on the t3 website again!

Yes they will be cheaper....but who's to say you won't be in the same situation in a matter of months, weeks or even days. They're a consumable item. Buying second hand shocks is like buying second hand socks!

I imagine the same as using wet news paper, just with bread instead.

Info on disc caliper combo? Are they wilwood discs?

Well then what about using a fully sealed system that can be pressurised that actually uses boost as its propellant so to speak. That way it could also be somewhat self regulating!

Have you looked at water meth kits?

Hey mate, just a tip - When you get the manifold made up make sure you keep access to the manifold bolts with a socket and extension as you can with stock manifolds. I can't get to the one next to ex port #3 like that, its a bitch and I have to remove the starter motor to give me room to spin a spanner on it.

6cc

I have that size Alecia's on my 55, with bolt ons, fit really nice. There's a few pics in my projects thread. Currently running 195's that are a bit stretched....only because I had those tyres before the wheels. Probably go 205 or 215 front and maybe 235 rear soon.