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Everything posted by Taz_Rx
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If you're sick of the facet you won't be disappointed with the carter. The main thing that makes them do quiet is the bracket. Are the konis oil? I had the same sort of issue of the shocks wanting to extend with trd blues. I ran some trd greens before upgrading again to my shockworks stuff and while having the same sort of dampening characteristics as the blues they didn't always feel like they wanted to lift the arse end.
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Hit another damn roo on my way to work last night grrr. Not as bad as last time but still smashed the grill, kinked the passenger side guard and ʞ©$ɟed my full chrome bumper. Got most of the parts I need to fix it, just need to find another bumper. If anyone has a good full chrome yell out!
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Wtf is that someone's attempt at a strut brace. .../chain?
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I had that felt pad snap off entirely once! Was a bit hard for the motor to run when the points wouldn't open at all lol
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Tried running a new wire straight from the dizzy to coil -ve and bypass the loom? Couldn be coil isn't being fired at all!
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As I eluded to earlier have you checked voltage at the coil while cranking to make sure the 12v start circuit isn't dead?
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You can rule out the ballast resistor! Theres another wire to the coil + which supplies a full 12v when cranking and bypasses the ballast resistor. ...and in saying that it gives you another important thing to check.
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Do you want your car to drive well or just look good?
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Some old motors (or more so tappet covers) had a rubber push in 710 cap. ;)
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http://www.camtechcams.com.au/toy_4cyl_3k4k.html Camtech 621 has about 260 degrees of duration and is only rated to 6500rpm. I reckon you're just expecting a bit much.
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I'm just about to remove my dizzy which would be good for single pulse triggering if you're interested. That way you can have ignition control, just not quad coils. As for the manifold you could get brad to make one like I did. Realistically it's one of the best k series turbo manifolds in the world lol, but it was far from cheap. Could be worth going and asking Dave at dc automotive up in prospect if he could make one up four you. Just a tip... I got my ex manifold flange cut at tasfab using an old manifold as a template. If you do the same just make sure its the same thickness as the ears on the inlet manifold. ..which is 12mm iirc. Mine was 10mm and I had to shave down the ears.
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Just twin charge it! ;) What turbos do you have?
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That's cool. Did you literally shoot holes in it? Ps there is still some old zombies hiding around the city. All the cool kids hang out on the facebook pages these days.
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I dare say it would. They're nothing too special. Way over hyped. Need to have a chat to you tomorrow too. Got an opportunity for you to make some coin and improve your arse end. ;)
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Got the clutch swapped out on Thursday/Friday. here's the state I found my flywheel in.... Pressure plate wasn't any better and the plate was well down into the buttons.... All nice and shiny and ready to go back together. Finally got around to weighing it while it was out..... a rather anorexic 4.8kg!! Big thanks to Andrew (pozza123) for the hand in getting it back together. Would have been a much longer night otherwise. :y: So good to be able to boost again. just need to get used to the new bite point and pedal feel now. Hopefully have some more updates coming soon with the ls1 coil mods.
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Throw out up to YouTube and link. We need top hear the brappy goodness!
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Yeah mate stock points dizzy, but it did have the mechanical advance locked up. Ran about 25 degrees btdc. Not sure what model hilux neds helmet was off. The bit you would remove to change the filter was the base, which needed holes drill in it for the carby bolts and throats. It also had a slight dome in the end of it so I had to flatten it out as best I could. The checker plate on the top is to cover the hole from where the filter box outlet was cut off. The fuel line was easy, it was the hollow threaded rod part of bonnet/boot pin switch for a car alarm. I cut the guts out of it and screwed it in to the base. Fuel then flowed though it with a hole clamped on either side. The throttle however wasn't perfect. The sheath just went through a hole in the side and got clamped on with the 2 nuts that normally attach it to the stock bracket. It would have leaked a little bit of boost but nothing noticeable. I did also have to make a custom small throttle linkage for the Weber as there wasn't room for the original one to turn. The hard part to sort with the whole setup was holding the whole box shut! The original clamps lasted only a second of the first boosting before they bent and let go. The solution in the end was 6 or 8 lengths on threaded rod that held the whole thing down tight. The wing nuts you can see on the top of the box is where these were tightened. Hope that helps, if there's anything that's not quite clear let me know and I'll try and explain better.
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Oh and does the plenum bolt up to your sidie manifold?
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Good work mate. Just be aware the gtir ones have a .86 (iirc) a/r on the rear whereas the s15 ones are .64 Will work well in the top end, just slightly more lag than mine. Like you said, good start. If you leave enough room around the turbo (especially compressor end) with your manifold design then anything off the shelf for an sr will bolt straight on when you want to get serious/crazy. Disco potato etc
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Sticky starter motor for sure. All k one's end up doing it eventually.
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Man that was before the lakes/east coast run home! It's considerable worse now. I can hardly get up the hill on Algona rd without it spinning at some point.
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New clutch is immediate priority. Has been bad since I went on a cruise in December, but is terrible now. Won't even hold like 5psi. Should hopefully be picking one up tomorrow and have it fitted by the weekend. Just got an exedy hd this time not a button. See how it goes. Next on the list is to sort brackets for my ls1 coils. Got another 4k block last week that i can use for mock up on the engine stand. Once that's made I can fit the cas and coil, bigger injectors and the wind the boost up some more. :)
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So I didn't get around to putting the specs list up last night.... Front: Shockwoorks 86 base height adjustable coilover, 6kg springs, inverted 45mm 15 way adjustable dampers. T3 86 steering arms T3 roll centre adjusters T3 camber plates T3 strut brace All new bushes and ball joints Ae86 brakes with slotted and dimpled rotors Also did the rear a couple of months ago but didn't update, is now: Reversed eye main leaves Shockworks base height adjustable 15 way dampers All new bushes
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....and then got his old man on and wound it up lol