crdiscoverer

On the mirror situation: The AW11 MR2 has an almost identical mirror to the KE3X/K5X. Screw locations, arm length, etc. with the added benefit of having a dimming switch which Corollas of this vintage almost never had. So, there's a good tip for all of you, go and snatch those AW11 mirrors before they are all gone. On the headliner, mine is still using the metal frame and it's been redone I think a couple of times while reusing the same rods. I don't recall those plastic clips but wouldn't it be easy to simply 3D print them using one that's still good? If they are simple to fabricate perhaps you won't even need a sample. I've fabricated a few missing bits and pieces with the printer we have at work and for stuff that isn't visible it does a great job when the parts you need are unobtanium.

Well, I managed to find it and here's the info in case someone at some point needs to know: This is one of the two main harnesses that connects to the back of the cluster. The handbrake bulb goes in the socket marked with an arrow (bulb holder not in the photo as I was testing the bulb). The wires are red/white (ground) and blue/red (12v). We care about the red/white one: If you follow this wire - which was surprisingly hard to do in such a simple car - it switches to another harness where it turns green/white. This is the unused plug I had under the dash, between the ventilation controls and the glovebox. You can see the accelerator lever that goes into the firewall just behind the plug, that'll give you some hints about location. The lead marked with an arrow is the one that connects to the handbrake switch. This green plug is probably already connected to something depending on the number of options your particular KE3X had: Then you just simply need to connect the existing wire going from the handbrake lever or if it was removed (as it was my case), get a new one routed next to the transmission hump and connect it. Success! Hope this helps somebody in the future. Let's keep forums from dying. Better to document things here than Reddit or (worse) Facebook groups. Bonus: More success!

Hi folks, Long time ago my '78 KE30 got fully taken apart for a paint job. Ever since the handbrake switch broke and never worked again. I managed to find a used one but I see that someone at some point also removed the wire that goes from the handbrake all the way to the main wiring harness. I have no clue where to connect the switch to. I'm guessing it's a ground wire and I've been doing some testing with the continuity/beep setting in a multimeter, but I've had no luck so far. I checked the bulb behind the cluster and it's good. If someone has a working handbrake switch and can take a few pictures for me of where it goes connected to or guidance on how to find the right lead, I'd really appreciate it. 82215 is the wire in question (bottom diagram): And here's what the switch looks like: Thanks!

Hey folks, The rubber weatherstrip that makes contact between the roll-down windows and the door is falling apart (the inside is worse but the external one has also seen better days). I guess I can't complain after 40+ years. I see some aftermarket replacements but only for 4-door KE30s (example) (mine's a 2-door). Is there any good quality alternative that doesn't fall apart after a few months? My backup plan is to buy that kit for a 4-door, cut a piece of the rear door strips and glue it to the front ones which will surely come up short, but it's probably going to end up looking like crap. Thanks!

Choke does turn off after a while. The flaps open correctly when the resistance heats up. My car is LHD, so the throttle cable comes from the right side (left in the pictures) and the carb's throttle linkage can only be actuated towards that direction. That's basically the main reason why it can't be turned 180 degrees. The old Aisin carb was similar though, fuel from the back, throttle at the front. Maybe it's the norm among LHD 3Ks. The booster vacuum hose is new, I had to change it because the "new" intake manifold had the opening in another spot. I will check it again but I'm pretty sure we can rule out a vacuum leak. Pretty much everything is new already. The motor just had a re-ring done as well. I did port the manifold and removed the split at the middle of it. BTW, now that I see those pics again, Woah! my engine bay was dirty. The car had been sitting around for months at that time.

Thanks for the replies guys. I just saw today that going downhill also causes the same effect: engine stalls and dies if I don't blip the throttle. I don't have any info on the jets the kit came with, so I'm in the process of asking the seller about them. You can check it out here: http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/toyota/ The one I bought is the "K 662" for 3K motors. BTW, the fuel pump is brand new. Got it a few weeks ago. Nothing fancy though, just a standard stock replacement. This is how it looks. It was the only way it could be fitted to the engine. I'm not so much of an expert with this, so it could very well be backwards, but I don't have a way to turn it to the other side. This photo was taken during the installation process, and after that the intake and head were changed to the big-bore models. So you might see some hoses and cables missing:

Hi guys, I have a 1978 KE30 Corolla with a 3K motor and the big-bore intake manifold and head. I'm having a couple of problems with a recent Weber 32/36 DGEV conversion I did: 1. After a hard stop, stepping hard on the brakes for example, the car stalls and the engine dies. I have to fire it up again, and usually it's not so easy (feels as if it was choking on fuel). The few times it doesn't stall the idle gets rough and I have to blip the throttle a bit to keep it from stalling. Idle is smooth otherwise, and gradually coming to a halt occurs without issues. 2. Fuel economy tanked. I know Webers are not known for their efficiency, but I can hardly extract 250km out of the tank now. With the old Aisin carb I was able to run for 400 or more km. I have checked the spark plugs and they have a healthy gray/brown color to them. #2 is not so important to me, but I mention it mainly because I believe both problems could be related. The Weber is new, and I ordered as a kit (RedLine) for 3k/4k engines so I assumed the jets are adequate. Apart from that the car runs great, idle is smooth as I mentioned, there are no flat spots in the powerband and generally it pulls like it should for a 3k. No clouds of black smoke under what either. I suspect the carb is running a bit too rich, but the plugs tell me a different story. Ideas? Should I change the jets? Thanks so much!

But I'm not having fuel starvation issues anymore. It's putting like 40hp to the wheels, G-forces are something this car has never experienced! The carb could be inside out and it'd still work. :laff: The bogging down thing was due to an improperly set up electric choke.

I'm in Costa Rica. But normally for stuff that is hard to ship directly I have a physical address in the US. I'd probably tell Tighe to ship it there. There are local shops that can work the cam, but I want to have a "spare" just in case. If I modify the cam I have right now, I'll be with no way to revert the change in case something goes wrong. So in short, I don't trust them. I'm not planning to spend a lot of money on this engine. I said before that I wanted to regain at least the power that has been lost due to age, and hopefully a little bit more. 70hp or 80hp to the wheels would be more than fine. I don't want to reach the point where I would say "heck, a 4A-GE conversion would've been cheaper and better". The adapter plates had only one direction for installation, so flipping it over 180 was not an option, that and also the throttle linkage would have been moving backwards.

No, I'm not worried about fuel consumption. This is not my daily driver so it can use whatever fuel it wants. :happy: So far I haven't had problems with an overly rich mixture or anything. It performs just as the stock carb, but slightly better. Specially the throttle response, which is faster/more direct. I know I need to get me a new set of cams. I want the Tighe 112, but it's impossible to get it here. The only option would be getting one imported from OZ, so if you know about somebody who's selling one, let me know. The extractors are also planned for the near future.

Turns out the electric choke (while being disconnected) interfered with the adequate airflow at full throttle. I finally connected it and tuned the high idle speed, and everything is now normal. Car keeps pulling strong at full throttle. I've found two things though: 1. Car doesn't seem to be faster than before (though it is way noisier at full throttle). 2. I've been using it for a few days and the fuel mileage tanked. I guess it's all a matter of fine tuning the carb now. I will take it to a shop with an emissions testing equipment to set it up properly. Some pictures during the install (sorry about the quality, it was dark and I only had my cell phone at hand): It really stands out between all that dirt! I know, I know. I need to clean my engine bay.

I was asked the same question by a couple of guys: "Does it pick up after a few seconds?". The answer is: "Nope". For as long as I keep the gas floored, the engine never delivers power. I will try to shoot a video for you. Shouldn't be that hard and the change in engine note will be very noticeable. Nobody mentioned this could be a timing issue so I will assume it's basically incorrect mixture, right?

It's a RedLine Weber kit. I bought it from Amazon and it's supposedly already jetted for stock-ish 3k/4k applications. This is it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G642PG It loses all acceleration and the engine gets very rough/splutters, it doesn't actually slow down; It's more like it stops accelerating, low or high rpms it's the same thing. No idea. The manual wasn't very specific. Here is their website, I've been looking: http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/toyota/ It's the K662 kit.

Hi mates, I installed a brand new 32/36 Weber on my KE30 Rolla. It is supposedly a 3k/4k kit so I guess it is already properly set-up for the application, or at least close to. I took it for a test drive the other day and everything is great except when applying full throttle. The engine bogs down (seems to be choking) and all power is lost. I checked for vacuum leaks and there are none. It doesn't matter if I accelerate smoothly or if I step on it, the results are the same. It looks like it's at the moment the secondary throttle valve opens. Being basically a noob in regards to carb tuning and such, I wonder what could it be? Lean/rich mixture? Vacuum advance not working properly? I still haven't connected the electric choke, could that be it? Thanks! Pictures to follow.

That's a great idea! I will get one of those fabricated. Thanks!!!