Tough_little_ke20

Cheers mate I've been flat out the last few weekends with track maintainance, khanacross, winton 6 hour and just general stuff that takes up all your time. My brother did some more welding on the bay for me last weekend and hopefully finishing it this coming weekend, gonna make up some mounting brackets for the IRS at work this week then try and get them welded in this weekend or next then box out the floor, notch and brace the chassis, fit the diff mount and fit up some coil overs. Hopefully nothing gets in the way of my plans

Yeh they're good aligners, dad has 3 of them at his work shop (Shepparton front end centre), no room for error with him so no electronic equipment. The rolla will be similar to the original red, this is the plan http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65975-ke30-3sgte-racecar/

Yeh propped it up on dads aligner, worked out the mounting height etc, gonna make up a camber kit for it to take it from -2.3° back to -1°

Hmmm been thinking about it all day and chatting to dad about it, decide ill use the rubber mounts, so ill just make up some mounting plates with big 4140 pins and a saddle for more support Cheers

Hey mate looking good, do you know of anyone with a rear end welded solid like yours? I'm tring to decide weather I weld mine in or use the rubber mounts, obviously welding would be stronger but will it be noisy and have a lot of vibration, I know it's a race car but I don't want a stupid amount of noise Cheers

Deadener is out, I love dry ice, 3.9kgs of deadener, not much but it all adds up

Got a bit of seem welding done tonight, just got to do the rear rails and two floor panels, then finish the engine bay

Ok some noticible work done now, the rolla has been blasted underneath in the bay, boot and interior. The rotisery made the blasting so easy. Luckily tge blasting didnt reveal anymore rust but it did reveal how bad the rust in the rear guards is. Because the weather is pretty good I'm not stressing about primer so I'm spending every night this week at work to get the seam welding done then Saturday ill get the sound deadener out and the primer on, then onto the IRS

Just basic skills, just don't rush things, I'm a fitter so I do have access the right tools and some extra skills, all the space is dads workshop, not leaving much for him haha. I thought about the sr because you can just drop the whole s13 driveline in, no converting to rwd but I couldn't curse a Toyota with Nissan parts, so although there are parts from all different models going into this car they're all Toyota parts

Pics

Called the sandblaster today and he's gonna do it this Saturday assuming its not raining, so the shell is now off the spit and on the trailer. It handy having a boss who lets you pinch the fork for the night, could have been pretty tricky otherwise

Ok so for anyone who is gettin eager for updates, I have a quote from the sandblaster and its gonna cost me $150-$200, no brainer, he can do it in a couple of weeks so I've gotta get it off the spit and onto the trailer then take it to him and set it up on the spit again and blast it, then move it back to the workshop and get to work. Will update once its blaster

I've been pretty busy lately with work, trade school and racing, gonna get a quote on sandblasting the undercarriage, interior, boot and engine bay so I can seam weld all the floor panels, chassis and fit up the IRS hopefully get it happening pretty soon

Ok so the car is now completely stripped and on the rotisserie, next up is to seam weld the floor and chassis and then mount the IRS, gettin exited now

Roof bars will be no issue and I may even still use a full cross, I have a very basic cage in my ke20 but it needs a lot more stuff to get registered so I can do rally I like this cage design easy to get out of and strong as ʞ©$ɟ

Mounted up the engine and box last Sunday so she sits up by herself now, and I sat down with the CAMS manual tonight and worked out my cage design

No Adam sorry the housing I have is perfect for my seating position

Cheers mate

Did some seam welding on the front of the car last weekend but my tig skills aren't real flash so my brother is doing all the bay (all the visible welds). Today I cleaned the motor and gearbox, painted them and bolted them together, will mount the engine tomorrow

Yeh positive would work well on dirt, mine will be -1° with a heavy sway bar and fairly stiff springs and shocks

A

The advantage for me is rear camber because with a live axel the rear tires are just dying on the outside, I'll be fitting it so that the axels will be straight at the ride height I want and my dad does suspension for a living so we will be modifying it to make it full adjustable, it will have -1° camber same as he sets up wrx's, Evo's, Datsuns etc, and with my wheels on the ra65 rear the wheel track is perfect. As for the diff I could either go with a mini spool or fit a different diff to allow for an lsd

Your doing an awesome job, I bought a 2 door ke30 about 6 months ago to build it into a track car so I can set up my ke20 soley for the dirt, my 30 has no rust and only a few light dints. I have a 3sgte and a 5 speed supra box for it plus a ke70 steering rack, I had intentions of putting a 4 link with a commodore axel, i had considered irs but i threw it in the too hard basket but after seeing this it inspired me and last Wednesday an ra65 rear end was delivered to my door step, yours will be a very good guide for me, can't wait to see it finished. Cheers Justin

Just finished building myself a new trailer 3 weeks ago too to haul the cars around on, I copied the tilta trailer idea but made everything bigger, 3 and 4mm box for the framing, Firestone airbags from a kenworth prime mover, twin cylinder compressor, 4000lb 4x4 remote controlled winch, full size super charge car battery, marine solar panel, remote control for up and down controls and a tire rack for only $2,789.31 including paint, rego, everything even the way bridge fee where it came in at 600kg

Some photos of the rack and rear end, it's the perfect width