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Thanks mate :)

Hi mate, the car is currently on stands and I was actually planning on doing some measurements of the rear springs to see if I could use ones from other cars. I can also measure the rate for you (it's not that hard) when I change out the rear shocks which is likely to be on the weekend. I do know for a fact that the TRD starlet cup cars ran 4kg/4kg front to rear so stock ones will be less. I know that King Springs make replacement ones for them but GOOD LUCK getting any sense out of that company in regards to rates... The car initially was in a bit of an ugly state, it had obviously sat for a very long time (I estimate easily 5-7 years) and I had to do a lot of work to the paint to get it shiny again. The car was very grey and had a lot of smog and pollution layers on it. It took a few goes at washing, paint treatments and two sweeps with a clay bar, some resin polish and finally liquid wax to get it as you see it.Every single bit of fluid in the car was also in a state of degredation. The brakes simply did not work and even pumping the old fluid out there was a lot of resistance until new stuff went through. The toyota coolant in it had gone a very dark black and smelled pretty bad. The tyres were completely cracked apart and the interior smells still (a lot less than it initially did) like tatami mats hehe.

I got busy with some fibreglass this weekend. I bought a TRD copy front spoiler and rear roof wing while the car was at home before it came over. The quality of the front piece is pretty good but the roof spoiler left a bit to be desired so I have been working on them. The front one was pretty basic and also made for the wide body kit so it had big arms coming off of it and didn't really match up to the body. most people just cut the bits off and screw it on and let it hang there but I wasn't happy with that. I extended the sides and brought the front lip all the way back to the wheel arch, added and undertray and tied that in with the front edge so that it will be more resistant to road debris and damage. I just fibreglassed straight onto the glass outdoor table I have and used some bent up scrap sheetmetal to mould the side extensions, pretty basic stuff especially with 80's cars are involved hehe. I've also rebuilt the front dampers (oil filled units) and sorted out every thing else to pass rego, just waiting on my new strut tops to arrive so I can throw everything back together. The SSR's won't make their way onto the car, they are from my stash of wheels for my KE70

Hi guys, I just thought I would share my solution to rear seat belt mounts. My first option was to basically hack the car up, weld backing plates in the sides and drill and upper sling mount for the rears which I wasn't too keen for. While at a visit to seatbelt solutions today the guy gave me a really great idea when he showed me flat mounting retractors, I am pretty pickled with the outcome of these mounts because now I don't have to mod anything at all on the car, it can even be reversed and it will be easier for me to make up my own rear parcel shelf (didn't come with one) that I can reinforce to mount some speakers in :) I started off with 100x100x2.6mm steel tube.

Originally I had purchased SSR XR4's (Longchamps) in 14x7 +0 for the car on "good" advice from other starlet owners that "they will fit no problems" to only realise that they sit well out of the guards (by an easy 30mm) and due to the clean nature of this car I really can't bring myself to cut the guards and screw flares on to it just yet . After doing a few measurements (which I'm happy to publish if anybody is interested) I am going to need some pretty specific wheels to fit it without destroying the car. SSR's are for sale if anybody is interested. I have some Watanabe's (genuine) coming to me for test fitment. I'm working through compliancing the car and getting it ready for rego at the moment and I am forced to keep it completely stock for registration here so there won't be much exciting stuff going on for a while. In saying this, the car is also required to be in good condition and well the suspension is completely blown out in all 4 corners, suspectedly from it sitting for however many years in jp doing nothing. The rear dampers are a no brainer, the design is a very universal type, they are the exact same units as KE70. AE86 rears are a little shorter in their extension so I will be putting those in as part of my temporary suspension. The fronts is where it gets weird. The KP was the only car Toyota chose to use specific designs on for this stuff as far as I know so I was in for a challenge when I started investigating this last night. The KP starlets run very thin front struts, I thought this was rather odd until I started digging. After a lot of sweat and swearing I got the gland nuts to crack loose on the front struts and what eventuated was me being covered in the face by oil and the result was a plate and seal greeting me. After a LOT of hitting and tool shoving and turning and whacking the front strut inserts started to budge loose, and this was a surprise. The front struts on the starlet are monotube oil filled units, just like the late SW20 units.... This explained why the tubes are so skinny (41mm ID) but it wasn't helping me much. My first thought was "ahh shit." closely followed by " yep, engine oil going in there for sure" and then common sense took over and I started googling and found a monroe replacement strut that will fit, so I am working on obtaining that. I've been driving it around on permits for the last couple of weeks and it just so happened that the "shortest" way to a few of my chosen destinations just happened to be localised hills run territory. Even with the flogged out dampers and hard and cracked 165 tyres this car has so much grip I am in awe of it already ! The 4K-e is pretty good, a lot better than any carb 4k I've driven and has bags of low down torque but it doesn't like to rev past about 4800. Once I get it rego'd I will throw the extractors I have on and hopefully that will allow the motor to breathe better. The diff is a bit noisy..... not whiney but it just sounds like the pinion spacer has either worn or the pinion bearings have flat spotted or have some play in them so I will have to put plans in motion to correct that before rego although I would rather put it off and wait for an LSD to pop up on yjp. Yesterday I also did a lot more cleaning to the engine bay, I unbolted everything against the body and cleaned that and under the bonnet skin and the engine bay is almost as shiny as the outside now hahah. For the record, for compliance and rego I have to do the following: Side intrusion bars , 50x25x2.5 steel , welded inside the doors Immobiliser New seat belts front (I have getting new retractors and webbing, retaining factory latches for the nostalgia. this comes at a a price though.) Rear seat belts changed to lap/sash belts Child restraint points New brake pads new tyres English tyre Placard

Hi everyone, I've started browsing Rollaclub a lot more lately due to me now owning a K motor powered car again. I have a duplciate thread on Toymods so I'm just going to cut and paste what I am maintaining there :) If anybody would like close up pictures in better resolution, information or anything just ask and I will be happy to help where I can. I originally purchased this 1983 Starlet in November of last year (2012) and it took some time to get it into the country because of the slackers who were processing my import approval. Finally last week I picked my car up from the quarantine lot and have been working on the compliance side of things so that I can get it registered here in WA. Anyhow, here's some images !

Oh mister high roller there! hehehhe I've never found pinchweld to be as versatile or bendy as using silicone hose, but yes it would be constituted as the 'proper' way :)

trick for protecting braided (or any ) lines that go through holes : get some vacuum tube (I use new silicone where I can but you can use old crappy stuff) and slice it down its length so you essentially have a split tube, and it will look like a rubbery version of electrical convaluted tube. just feed it on to the hole outer diameter, make sure its longer than it needs to be to cover the metal edge and wiggle it on there. the tension of the hose being too long will push the hose out into the hole and hold it there.

Try an MX83 swaybar. I am running one in mine and it's heaps better than the POS Whiteline one I had before. Quite large and cheap usually! You need the bushes and the d-mounts also. I think I had to ream the holes in the caster rod brackets out for them too.

Nice work mate, this is what corolla's should be about :) Are you intending to fix the diff pinion angle with the new 4 link system? What are you doing about brakes up front?

yeah, if you say so ! it looks from even the pictures that you posted that the firewall is rusted, the bonnet webbing is rusted through and the fenders have rust ! remember rust is like an iceberg, you only see the tip ! and yeah there are a few in perth.

wow what a shame, that starlet looks pretty far gone :(

spotted : todd with a shameless self promoting post !

Just got wind of this, could be keen to rock up in my 70 and talk shit about cars.

interested, shooting you a PM now...

I havent had it on the dyno as yet but it feels like about 170hp if not a bit more. i had a run with a mate who has an aristo which has run a 12.8 and it was pretty much dead even so i wouldnt be surprised if it could bust a very low 13 comfortably.

its turbo ! :)

Thanks mate. yeah it was pretty easy to fit. the car had no bumper support when i got it so i made my own mounts which it just hangs off and with a little bit of trimming on the sides it fits pretty good i think .

The new KE70, my daily driver. 1982 KE70 (originally 4kc auto) AE92 4AGZE motor modified AE93 intake AE82 fuel rail 365cc injectors custom turbo manifold IHI RH5 turbo custom dump pipe custom exhaust PWR 500x300x80mm intercooler K&N air filter T50 gearbox AE86 diff housing (4 pinion centre) AE92 standard 4AGZE engine control Whiteline adjustable swaybars Whiteline adjustable panhard rod SW20 Turbo fuel pump on GZ20 soarer cradle SSR reverse mesh 15x7 +20 rims AE86 front bumper extended steering boss some random steering wheel which was better than a 1982 corolla one. VR Commodore brakes all fitment, modification, welding and electrical was done by myself.

so basically I'm in need of everything inside the car minus door panels. will buy or intercept a rusted to hell shitter which is ready for the tip. I would prefer to get as many good parts as i can. Thanks

wrong? move to Perth! we got lots of dodgey sh!tters here hahahha

Hi, i just found this forum while looking for other stuff. basically this is a the same conversion as in an ae86 (if you have an ae71 not a ke70) so there is ample information on club4ag and toymods about converting the fwd motors to rwd. you HAVE to use a GE flywheel and clutch , whether its fwd or rwd as the GZE will NOT fit in any circumstances. apparently the 4age 20v flywheels are the pick of the stock bunch as they are lighter ive heard. regarding your modplate, the ae71 HAS a 4a motor, and on the firewall will be marked with compatible motors in the series allowed in the chassis so all you have to do is call up your transport dept and change the engine number from 4AXXXX to 4AXXXX and thats all, if you don't want to go about engineering it. as for brake upgrades, the sprinter S or T series drum or disc brakes give a good upgrade on the stock rears, and the front can be swapped easily with RA60 celica struts/discs/calipers as easily as fitting standard ones, but you get about 2 degrees of positive camber which can be corrected with either top hats or negative camber spacers (RCA's) i have an AE71 with a 4agte myself, and it was pretty piss easy to setup mechanically, i didnt do the wiring but from what i can see its not that complicated... heres mine: http://www.members.westnet.com.au/adsport/4agte.JPG