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z250junker

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About z250junker

  • Birthday 12/01/1989

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    Jack

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  1. battery re-location is a good move. 4kg front should be pretty spot on, if you are worried about the balance increasing the rears should help. the car will lock its front brakes usually under heavy late breaking. plan is; if you drive smooth, medium brake way before the corner to wipe off/ set entry speed, light brake to fine tune speed and then enter the corner while feeding on power you wont lock the fronts up. that and running sticky tyres at the track and you shouldn't have any troubles. I'm sure you have heard about the snap-oversteer most MR cars suffer from, let off power through a corner and you will be backwards from the tarmac. as far as understeer from too little weight in the front try those trd alignment settings the rears toe setting will help with turn in. good luck to you and its a shame your not in adelaide...
  2. careful for the spring rates on these ebay kits AW11's need something like 4kg fronts and 9-10kg rears. I have heard these kits offering 8kg front and 6kg rear. not good for MR also these pages might be of interest: http://mr2.com/TEXT/MkI_TRD_Prep.html http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pages/aw11_mr2_tuning_guide.htm
  3. cheers dude! such an under-loved car the mr2 put it in an car already! that 4k was the best I have driven :) $100 is obviously a good deal, be careful its not too good to be true. make sure it has everything! I am yet to find a starter motor/ flywheel that works with my combination. I can't really comment on difficulty as I have yet to finish mine, it has been a long haul and wiring is always going to slow people down. since you are getting this package so cheap it might be justifiable to get the kit ($300) for engine mounts and gearbox mounts also this conversion requires a custom tail-shaft to be made up and some type of surge tank or baffled fuel tank if you are in adelaide I am happy to show you in person the odd ball parts to this conversion that I have found along the way.
  4. My daily aw11 is having bigport headgasket failure and this has slowed the whole thing down a little. here are some pics of my new smallport for the aw11 as well as the car itself. and some pics of the corolla's fuel setup and wrinkle painted cam covers :)
  5. the EXA motor is a good runner but I needed a RWD loom, ECU and manifolds. And yes the S13 engine was all kinds of black death and metal shavings so it requires a solid rebuild costing way more than both engines together.
  6. I have been here a while and thought It was time I showed a few pictures of my car and what type of driving it sees. the car is a dark blue KE70 flat front and has been owned by nearly everyone. I live just off Magill road and grip drive through the hills on a weekly basis. the original 4KC was quite a screamer and never missed a beat, however a 4K has little to no torque and to climb hills with speed there is no substitute. turbo or supercharged engines have too many potential issues that will lead to increased repair/running costs, increased problem diagnosis, installation difficulty. the "feel" and "free" rev of a naturally aspirated engine is hard to beat, it is very usable and is excellent for engine braking and since this will be my first engine conversion I want to keep it as cheap and easy as possible. 4AGE 16 valve is the obvious choice, parts can be found relatively easily but at a cost and RWD parts are through the roof! also being a KE70 not AE71 the box is a K40 not T50 so that along with the hydraulic clutch master, lines, slave and pedal box will also have to be purchased in order to use the 4age. This has also been done to death. so a very rough estimate to bolt in a 4age would be around $1500 if you got poor prices and some new parts. The car was purchased for $750 so its not like I want to spend that much on purely the engine just to get the extra torque and power. additional parts needed to convert from carburettor to EFI: -relays and wiring - required to switch various new circuits added -baffled tank or a simple surge tank system -high pressure pump -lift pump (for surge tank only) This conversion if done with what has been mentioned above would be a walk in the park... however It is not always the best route, sometimes a dirt cheap complete engine comes along and a "simple" plan is formed to put that engine in your car cheaply. $200 CA18DE (from EXA) $100 S12 5 speed gearbox $150 BHG CA18DE (from s13) $100 fabricated engine and gearbox mounts $300 custom made tailshaft $200 Surge tank, High pressure pump and lift pump $100 wiring and plumbing total $ 1150 this has been the conversion that I have had varied enthusiasm towards over the last 6 or so months. Currently It it not far off being a running engine. Wiring is the big issue, currently making a additional small loom for the Coil-Packs and the Air Flow Meter as these are missing from my loom..
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