Cuts

That looks neat as. With those seats you naturally have to put a rotary in it.

Yep that would be the one.

Well, I've been working on it for an hour or two every night (except for a few nights which are dedicated gym and or swimming nights) and after today it's all but done. Wiring is complete, cold side intercooler piping is complete. All that I need to do is make the hot side cooler pipe and pick up the propshaft this week and it's done. Need to find some stainless 2" bends and straight to make the hot side pipe, will have to see if there is a metal recyclers down here I can hit up. Hopefully it will be back in the road in a week or so, I won't have as much time for it this week as I'll be in Sydney for some of it and I work late every night.

Progress has happened, I forgot to update this thread. This first update is from last week Last few days I've been driving the car around with it on (apparently) very low fuel so when I did todays job I wouldn't have to drain much fuel. The gauge was below the empty line and I got a bit over 10 litres out of it, lol, at least I know now I can get more then 100kms below the empty line. I was given a caldina intank pump to use, which shall for the time being be the primary pump, then later when I can be fncked I'll fit a surge tank and external 040 probably. Naturally the ksev has no electric pump or in tank goodness at all so I decided to weld in a new larger line (which used to be the coolant feed line for the turbo on an r33, lol) It's not the neatest job but it's all done correctly with no dodgy bits, and it's only a corolla so the care factor is very minimal. Did the wiring for the pump (from the front relay) too so now it's all wired in and ready to go. Somehow I lost a pair of butt nose pliers whilst doing this job, (they wouldnt fit in the tank before anyone asks), little angry about this. Also finally got the lights on the t18 bumper working, previously I was using just a generic number plate light, glad to have it back to how it should be. You can see I also started doing some rear bracing, I'll be adding some more to this rear one, probably some triangulation. The double sided tape/electrical tape on the fuel pump wires is just temporary, when it comes to actually running it Ill put them in conduit and use proper holders. in between now and then I've installed a T series diff, and some new rear shocks. I have another brake master cylinder here I planned on boring out to suit the bigger brakes but after bleeding the brakes again post t series diff the pedal feel is exactly the same as mine used to be and the other ksevs I've driven, stops pretty well, and the handbrake is awesome now. aaaaaaaand todays effort: Put in adjustable strut tops, just to fix up the camber, pic taken for the lols, I'll it's back to about neg2 now. So I pulled out the old 4kc and installed the new 4kdet. In between had to install a hydraulic clutch master cylinder (because ksevs run a clutch cable), that naturally was a mission because they are never designed for a hyrdo setup. I welded brackets to the side of the clutch pedal to actuate the clutch M/S. The engine mounts are done (i'll probably dick around with the orientation of the engine mounts (which are brand new ford courier items, which I chose because of their size/shape) to get the engine in perfect location, CA's always sit on that angle so don't get confused. Gearbox mount is 50% done (it's sitting a bit low in the gearbox so technically the front of the engine will go a bit lower too) The throttle cable is done, and I was just starting on the water lines when I decided to call it a day.

update time. Spent today working on the golden chariot. This is what was done: Fitted the RA60 struts and brakes (and installed new shocks) Lengthened the stock lower control arms by 30mm, adding a gusset at the bottom for a bit more strength, Lengthened new tie rod ends by 30mm Made frankenstien steering arms which are double height, the top bit is chopped up ra60, the bottom is ke70, they are welded together. Why did I do this? Because for a start the ra60 strut bolt spacing is slightly larger then ke70, so if I was to use the ke70 steering arm then I would have to lose the locating dowels, not keen. If I was to use the ra60 steering arm I would have lost steering lock because they are longer. So the solution was to use the important part of the RA60 one welded to the top of the KE70 one, which I filed the holes out slightly so they lined up with the strut. This also had the benefit of getting the LCA back on a closer to stock angle to help with bump steer. I'm still using the stock ke70 strut tops and the Lexus GS300 springs in the front. I'll be getting some lower profile tyres, it scrubs a little on full lock now, but with a bit more stretch on the front it will be fine. I'll get some adjustable strut tops soon and take a bit of camber out of it, also I need lower profile tyres which ill do this week I think. Does scrub a bit when full lock, but regular driving its fine. ke70 strut and brakes next to RA60 The inner goodness: lengthened LCA, lengthened tie rod end, frankenstien steering arm. Pic is a bit crappy but you get the idea, not the neatest job, but hey..it's only a corolla. My mates Asev and my Ksev EDIT: A couple of days ago I fitted the intercooler (in ready for the CA18DET, which I've got ready to go in, now just waiting for time to fit it). The cooler is GTIR pulsar with the ends capped and new outlets welded on in a better location. Obviously I painted the end tanks and outlets but left the core itself unpainted as I feel you lose some efficiency. But I'm pleased to say it's very hard to spot through the grill.

Hey all, so I've had this rusty snot box for about a month now. Bought it stock as a rock as a daily to replace a ST162 white lightning, cost $700 with 6 months rego just put on. Not much to say about it, its stock as a rock with as you probably read 642 000kms, not a typo, that works out its been around the world around 15 times haha. Diff is very noisy, the bushes in the rear are all but non existent so the back end feels like its alive and has a mind of its own, and tie rod ends on the front are shot. Good bits: Rust, (aside from what you can see in the rear quarters) there is very little rust, none around the windows/doors and very very little in the boot. Moonroof, aftermarket, doesn't leak, I wouldn't of cared if it didn't have one, but I like the fact it does, and it doesn't leak. Interior is in awesome nick, the drivers seat had collapsed so I replaced the front seats with good condition AE71 seats, but other then that no rips, tares holes to speak of, even has a centre console in good nick and working correctly. Engine is the stock 4k, it ran well for a time. Then I went to Melbourne for Jimmy's wedding and lent the car to a mate to get the windows tinted and when I got back the head gasket went, I'm not upset at him at all, I had a feeling it was on the way out so didn't care. I was given a smallport and bigport 3k head and a gasket kit for free so I chucked the smallport head on and it's going fine again now. It did have a cannon on it, so that was cut off and I made some blast pipes out of 2" stainless pipe welded that on, much better. A mate and I bought a pair of hang rings (his is on an AE71), also bought some fender mirrors of ebay and put those on. The previous owner chopped the front springs and put chopped gs300 springs in the rear, naturally its bumpy as fnck. Got the hotwires off a mate, bought some cheap new tyres for it and chucked them on, not sure of offset (would be in single figures or less I would think) and they are 14x7. Today I picked up a complete T series diff from a manual T18 (and the rear half of the driveshaft), also got a reasonable condition T18 chrome rear bumper, hydraulic pedal box (not sure if Ill use this or modify the stock one ), T18 struts (for my mates ae71 for coilovers), T18 brake master cylinder (for me later), sigma LCA's and some other odds and sodds, all for $350... I have also scored a: CA18det, box, loom and ecu for $1k, it's been dyno'd at 142kw atw, and it comes with a T28 too, so that should make the little bus go alright, Before that goes in though I'm looking for *A6* celica front suspension and brakes to give a bit of an upgrade, and naturally the T series diff will be going in ASAP, along with new whiteline panhard rod bushes that I have here already. Body wise it's in reasonable nick, not much in the way of dents really, and since the pics I have taken the spokes on the rear wheels back to alloy like the fronts. Hotwires are a bit poxy but they were cheap and look a damn site better then stock cheese cutters. Since this is a rolla forum I won't bother you too much with the 205, its an aus delivered Group A Rallye, I've owned it for 8 years this year. When I got it it was basically stock (aside from the Momo's and a 3" zaust) since then I've sunk way too much money in it, but I don't regret it one bit. Most of the work (engine build, fab work, fitting etc) has been done by me. Some quick specs: Garrett GT3582r (ceramic coated rear housing) on ceramic coated 6boost manifold, Turbosmart 50mm progate. Custom alloy plenum with 2zz-ge throttle body, custom alloy and stainless piping HKS: 264 cams, valve springs, cam gears, twin power igniton ACL forgies, ACL race series bearings, OE ST205 MHG, NPC sprung centre button clutch. Sard 800cc injectors, Walbro pump, Apexi Power FC Pro KYB super street adjustable shocks, Tein springs, Cusco adjustable strut tops, cusco 4 point lower brace, nolethane bushes throughout, C-one sports diff mount, whiteline adjustable rear sway bar. Recaro SR5 front seats on Recaro rails, Momo steerer, Autometer Pro Comp II gauges. Stock size slotted DBA rotors, Project Mu pads, braided brake lines. It's not been dyno'd for a couple of years (and 2 turbos ago) but it last made 265kw (and over 500nm) atw on 22 psi and 25 second ramps with a GT3082 turbo. With the current turbo and a retune I expect 300kw atw, Lag wise I have full boost by 4000, and can still get 6 psi @ 100 which is enough to overtake without downshifting comfortably. Currently I have some new and rather expensive wheels on the way from Japan (unfortunately not overnight) the make and model shall remain a secret but I don't think there is a set like them in Aus yet. I'll upload with an engine bay shot of the 205 soon, looking back through my pics it seems I have no up to date ones. UPDATE: Engine bay shots added, yes the screamer does come straight up. I cut a hole in the grill and put the cut out section on a piece of stainless plate over the pipe so it's disguised as the grill itself, unless you are looking you wouldn't notice it from the outside. I have been pulled over since it's been installed and nothing was said.

Chasing ra60/65 front end bits complete T series rear end

saw a super low and super clean ke70, white in howrah yesterday