madrolla68

To create boost it needs the actuator lifted upwards when its on the right way up, so it would need the actuator to be pulled towards the engine. They work by redirecting the exhaust gases onto the turbine wheel,depending on how the vanes are positioned to how much gas actually drives the turbine wheel,hence how much boost they make. They need a vacuum source ALL the time to control the actuator,so even if it has vacuum at idle once it trys to make boost it will relax the actuator making no boost. Tell him to try holding the actuator SAY half way open and try it. Matt

Thats a ZD30 VNT turbo Si, if there's no vacuum to the actuator can then all exhaust will go to waste. Thats my guess by the picture. Matt

Thats fine mate,don't get ansy!!!! Just trying to decifer whether or not that was the problem. Ill go back to saying nothing. :y:

So is it braced or NOT!!!!!!!!!!

While it may not be the best material for heat, can i suggest that you brace it to the engine somehow otherwise this will keep happening,all the exhaust & turbo weight is hanging from those planges,and i bet the exhaust is not braced to the gearbox either!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey Si he should buy my car and then hell get the engine as well!!!!!!!!! :P

Hey man where'd you get them puppys from.

I'm not getting into this argument again,if you are talking about a STD production car then you can qoute accurate power loss but if you are talking modded,different engine hp combo cars then it will not be the same power loss as it was when the car was delivered from factory. THEY ARE THE FACTS>!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you make an extra 30Kw at the engine then ALL of it gets to the wheels not a percentage of it..

I'm not into bragging about my Et's I ran the car once on 16Psi due to the clutch not holding anymore boost, it ran 13.7@103MPh which is the limit at 6800rpm, std gearing with 205/70/13's For anyone that wants to work it out ,it is around 165RwHp with a weight of 880Kg i think we worked it out at. The reason i put that in is some people RECKON they know that my engine cannot make that much power with that turbo,injectors RA,RA,RA. The engine has made to date 149RwKw, so if i can get it to the ground and grab some more gearing it should run some very good numbers.

So youll take 10K then !!!!!!! :P :D

You will never lose 30% of the power through the driveline my friend. A KE series car will probably lose around 15Kw through the driveline period no matter how much horsepower you have.See its not a linear thing but a fixed loss.

Not asking you to beat anytime , you blokes were the ones comparing dick sizes. I know how big mine is just don't go showing it around.

I reckon you should all produce a time slip then we will all know how fast they are.!!!!!!!!!! :P

The T25 will work just fine to 150RwKw if setup correctly, by that i mean making a proper manifold not just using a J pipe setup. All the work is done except your intercooler piping needs to be re-routed. Go for it.

Yeah turn it up man!!!!!!!!!!! Its only money,hell i run 17 in my daily. :y: :no2: A proper manifold is where its at Si, so much is lost from a J pipe from thermal expansion

My T25 has made 149RwKw and shows no signs of laying down, might add i have a larger comp wheel. :o

Ask them if they have any other NOS parts mate. :n:

Thats fine by me chris, I'm too busy at the moment to worry about anything else.!!!!!! :P

Do it man do it!!!!!!!!!!!

So do you want it, itll go fully SIK after . they make KE20's go like piss.

Yep they are 1800cc and ive got a reconditioned one here for $850.

Ok people looking for some feedback on airlie beach and surrounding towns, we are thinking of moving there as a sea change for the family.

Nah second time, last one was 14 years ago.

Yeah good work ,bring it on!!!!!!!!!!!! :yes:

Yes good point :yes: