TheHeadShaver noob

Thanks for ur help. I'm hoping someone has a workshop manual or something, i have googled up and down, and seems hard to find the info for the ke70.

Hi I need some help with getting the info for what backlash and bearing torque, preload etc is on my ke70, regular jap diff. Does anyone have it in a workshop manual or something? i can't find it either on google or in the haynes. Helps is greatly appriciated.

Hi again I thankully got some help and was able to figure out how it was supposed to be, but now i have a diffrent problem. I can't get a hold of the input shaft bearing, Toyota said its discontinued and its not in stock in either europe or usa. Idk about asia or australia tho. The toyota part number is 90363-30017, the bearing manufacturer seems to be Nachi and the number seems to be 30bc07s7n1 I'm not totally sure if those are zeros or O's. Anyone have have a clue where to get a bearing like that? Help is greatly appriciated, Tom

Thanks for the tip, i have looked at those manuals and only prob is i would like to put the gears back together asap, but if no choice i will just have to wait until i get a manual. i better order one now anyhow so the sooner i get it the better. THanks, Tom

Hi i Wonder if anyone happen to have a picture or a haynes book or something on the k50 gearbox. I'm overhauling my box and i managed to make the keys fall out in the first hub on the mainshaft, now I'm very insecure witch way the sleeve and the hub itself sits. The hub will fit both ways, but in one way it gives more space to the synchroring behind it and it seems very flimsy sitting there that loose, but if i turn it around, it sits pretty tight and the synchroring sits nicely in there, but its no space between the rings, hubs and next gear, so the only way the syncroring can turn is around,wich again seems a lil odd compared to the other hubs and rings in the tranny. This seems to be the most likely way to me, but i wanna be totally sure. Then the sleeve where the shifter for goes into, i assume its gonna sit with the thinnest part forward, meaning to towards the clutch, but again not totally sure. I'm attaching a schematic here with the hubs and sleeve I'm wondering about. I hope someone is able to help, K40 info is the same on this hub as far as i know, so that will help too. THanks in advance for ur help, Tom

Hi I got a 1980 Ke70 with 4K, usually when i turn the ignition i can hear a relay click in when i try to start the car, but now theres nothing, and it seems no power is going to the starter when i try turn it. Battery and everything is fine, so i suspect its the relay, but where is it located? Thanks for ur help, Tom

its a easy enough swap, i have a 1c laying outside, it has a w50 gearbox with a original C bellhousing, this engine is from a 1983 or so carina diesel. u can use the same tank but u need a return line for the fuel and u need the 1c alternator with the vacuum pump for the brakebooster, but thats about it as far as i can remember. For gearbox i been told u can use the gearbox for the S engines, but i never tried this myself so i can't confirm this is true. But be aware, the 1c's is a hella lazy engine, a 4k is like a ferrari compared to the 1c, of course it helps if u turbo it, but i don't think this engine will ever be a fun ride. they run very economic tho, i been thinking about doing this swap myself, just for the economic reason. If u first wanna do a swap like this, go for 2ct or 3ct, 2ct is supposed to be the better quality engine outa them two and it runs semi decent.

My car is a lil up and down on the gas milage, its been everything from 9L100km and on a very good day maybe down to 7. i think my old dizzy is wore out, the points are good but when i adjust the timing, it can run pretty good but then suddenly the timing gets messed up and i have to adjust it again, i can keep doing this forever and it will never get completely good. Neither can i seem to get my carb adjusted completely right cuz of this issue. So I'm thinking, if i first need a new dizzy, i think its worth throwing in a few extra bucks to go electronic. I also wanna change my coil cuz I'm not totally sure about how well it is, should i just get a original coil or is there coils thats better than others? quality is a must, i had socalled high output coils break down on me and left me stranded by the side of the road, so quality is important, but at the same time it needs to be kinda cheap. I looked at the Kemotorsports site, but i don't find any 5k dizzys there, should i email him? if he don't have them anymore, is there other cheap options i have to get a electro dizzy? I have looked at 4k elec dizzys before, but they seems to need new coils and everything, wich seems to get pretty expensive for the whole package, i don't know if I'm correct about this since i never seen a 4k with elect dizzy before. Any suggestions? Thanks again :)

Thanks, looks very intresting and exactly what i been looking for. My 4k is totally stock tho, stock carb and everything, and with these gas prices i don't really mind it feeling a lil "flat" as long as it runs economical and smooth, you think this will suit my needs then? should i check what kinda dizzy i have now just incase?

Hi This is very intresting, the 5k dizzy looks very tempting. Can i just throw this into my 4k and use the same coil as i already have for my old breakerpoint system? any other special work that needs to be done? Thanks for ur answers :)

Thanks a lot for that info, saves me the worry about getting the wrong rings :)

just a tought but, sounds like u checked everything from the ignitionkey and to the starter, maybe the fault somehow isnt there, but between the battery and the ignition key? down on the driver side, left side on mine, might be the same side if u have right hand steering i guess, in the kick panel, there is some chrome relay thingies (not sure if their really relays or solenoids or whatever) they sometimes click in and sometimes they don't when i had this issue. I'm not sure if these has anything to do with the starting at all or maybe they just click in cuz of the powerdrain when turning the key, but if they somehow are related to the starting process, maybe someone with a electro schematic can figure out what these kickpanel thingies really is. Sounds like u checked out the starter and everything on that end, i would forget about the starter, the solenoid and the wires on that end, its very simple and ur checking is enough to be pretty sure the fault aint there. Look at the other end, remember the car wont give power to the starter if it somehow don't get the power to the ignition lock, and since absolutely nothing happens when u turn the key other than the lights dim etc its very likely its a main power issue. Did u open up the backplate on the ignitionbarrel and look at the points inside? if not, i would do that anyway, ur problem sounds exactly the same as mine with the same symptoms. That being said, i got a new backplate and everything works fine, for now, but still I'm just waiting for this effing problem to return and i wont be suprised if it suddenly do return. If u do take it to a auto electrician, please let us know exactly what they find out, i will be very happy to have this info just incase things starts to go bad again. Good luck :)

Hi Does anyone know if the 4K and the 4KC uses the same piston rings? both compression and oil rings. I'm looking for new rings for my 4K, but all i can find is for 4kc and no mention of them fitting the K only. Maybe someone with a working EPC could pull this info out? Any help is greatly appriciated. Thanks in advance :)

Hiya I have had the exact same problem for over a year, last thing i did was buying a brand new starter, wich still didnt solve the problem. After a lot of digging around, measuring voltages, checking wires and grounds etc, i tracked the fault to the backplate for the ignition lock. Mine was very dirty and simply wore out, i tried cleaning it up, sanded the electro points etc, and it works fine, cept that the points are so wore out i need to turn the key very gentle. I got tired of this messing around so i ordered a new backplate with all the wires and stuff. $30 on ebay. I advice u to take the backplate off and check it out, since all the symptoms on urs is exactly like mine, lights dim etc. also its very easy to confirm that this is the problem when u taken it off, just hotwire the points. I hope this helps u out :)

Hi My k50 box is getting loud and i think i need to change all the bearings, does anyone know where to get them? i Hope there is some alternatives to Toyota, like SKF or Koyo or something, since i bet the gearbox bearings costs a shitload at toyota. Thanks in advance for ur answers

Thanks for ur answer, i will give that a try as soon as it stop snowing. Just spendt 5 hours with the snowblower :bash: Is it any point in getting a electronic dizzy? any advantages cept u don't have to mess with the breakerpoints? If so, are they hard to come by and do i need anything else like coil etc? Thanks again :yes:

Thanks for ur answers. I'm running on 95 octane and I'm around 140 meters above sealevel, but I'm in Norway, so its pretty cold here now during winter. I havent touched the mixture screw since I'm worried about messing it up, i did that on my other ke70 and i had a heck of a time getting it all back to normal, but maybe i will try screw it in a lil. So basicly i should aim for around 12 degrees and just set the idle where it runs smooth, anywhere from 700-1000 rpms? when it was at 15 degrees i didnt get any timing pinging/knocking so I'm sure i wont get that at 12 either. Do you guys disconnect the vacum advance hose/tube when u set the ignition? if so, should i block the hose that goes into the carby so it doesnt suck "false" air? I also wonder about that adjusting knob on the dizzy thats covered by a plastic cap, what is it really for? does it matter how it sits when i adjust the timing? is it just for fine tuning the timing or does it have another mission? Thanks again for all ur help :)

Hi I have two Ke70's with stock 4K engines and I'm having a bit of a problem with setting the timing perfectly. In my Tune-up book it says the ignition timing should be set at 8 degrees with a strobe light, idling between 700-850rpms. However, set to idle at 800rpms and ignition at 8 degrees, both my cars idles kinda rough, like jumping a bit up and down on the idlespeed. One of my ke70's i bought just a few days ago and it was ideling pretty nice, but timing was at like 15degrees and idlespeed was set at 1000. That idlespeed feels and sounds kinda fast but I'm not sure whats normal on theese engines. I don't notice any diffrence while driving tho either when its set at 15 or 8 degrees. I'm thinking if the numbers in my book is wrong, or if it should be set diffrently cuz of wear and tear over the years, or should u just adjust the timing at 800 rpms, then when its correct just turn the idlescrew in until it idles nicely? What do u guys think? any tips on how to set it? and do you guys know what idlespeed and timing ur cars run on? On both cars the points and valves are newly adjusted and new sparkplugs and airfilters. Thanks in advance for all ur help :yes:

Thanks again for all ur great answers. well no reason for me to port the head then, but maybe i will polish it a lil while its off anyway. I prolly get some more questions when i start working on it tho :abuse:

Thanks a lot for all ur answers! i always wondered how to measure the combustion chamber volume, thanks for the lesson :D if my head is a virgin and never been shaved before, i think i will settle for just a 1mm, if that gives a ratio of 10,7:1 on a 4k, then i should get about the same or maybe a lil better on a 3k, right? To measure the leverage holes, what/where exactly are they? I'm a lil noobish when it comes to technical terms and my english aint that great either ;) Last question, i have some air tools, should i polish the intake and exhaust ports, or is it just a waste of time? the carb and everything is stock. if i should polish it, or maybe even make the ports bigger, do i need to be real carefull or is it not much chance for me to polish/port too much so i get into some water channels or anything?

Hi I have a 3k engine i wanna shave the head off just a little, the car is a daily driver so I'm not looking for anything extreme, just need it flattened and I'm gonna take a bit more off just to get a lil more compression. How much can i safely shave off without compromising the engines life or having to do any other mods to the head? a 1mm?, 2mm? i don't know how that will translate into the compression ratio, but like i said i don't want anything extreme, what would u reccomend? I also wonder how i can identify a 3k engine from the numbers stamped on the block, i need to find out when its made, and preferably wich kinda car its from, corolla or starlet. thanks in advance for all ur help :D