hi,
its using ke55 discs and calipers (girlock ones) and a remote booster which is all engineered.
i also just got it engineered for the turbo as well, so it will be a totally legit twin cam turbo ke20 when its back on the road.
makes me think i'll have to start saving for a good rear end diff conversion and w5x box package.
mine was manual to begin with. swapping the pedal box isn't hard, just a pain in the arse. mounting a clutch master cylinder and making the clevis fit on your pedal is ok, but depends on how you reinforce the firewall.
just get a ke20 manual pedal box. bolt or weld a plate onto the firewall to stop it flexing.
are you leaving it SC or turboing it? as for clearance, i used a NG pajero clutch master cylinder.
yes but the pressure drop across the bearings is pretty much total, so the oil drain needs to be vertically (or as close to) straight down.
i.e. oil won't be spurting out the top of your oil drain flange!
my turbo upside down? Umm, yeah i guess it is....hahaha. actually you are wrong, the feed is threaded and the drain just dribbles out of the big hole.
but you are right about my pic, the turbo isn't attached.
yeah, its the same as my t25; oil and water cooled. mine is all plumbed up now. i'm sure thats the oil drain in the picture though, not the feed. the feed has a threaded hole and the drain has the flange.
i'm doing the same thing - turboing a stock smallport motor with a t25 (although i now have a BB T28 as a backup) so i will be following your progress.
i have a low mount steampipe manifold and a GZE CAS and coil packs + haltech e6x.
a mate of mine used the park switch from his auto as an immobiliser when he converted to manual. he wired the park switch to a reed switch (magnetic) and stashed it under the carpet, then to start the car you have to hold a magnet over the certain patch of carpet and turn the key or else it won't start.