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Have to be careful using loctite on Flywheel bolts. Get all the bolts snugged home dry, remove one at a time, loctite and then put it back in the hole and torque it up. Try to do them all at once and there's a chance the Loctite can get between the mating faces, stops the flywheel from sitting correctly on the faces. Then doesn't take long for the loctite to get beaten into submission and all of a sudden your flywheel bolts are loose again. Probably fine for your situation, seeing as the engine hasn't run long, but if it had been beating around for a while, you can wear the face where the bolt heads sit. If it's not perfectly flat there, the bolts won't stay tight, regardless of proper torque and loctite, would need to take it to a machine shop and get the faces true'd up again. Also worth noting that the drive pulley bolt on the nose of the crank needs to be f-tight as well. Driving a lot of accessories thru that pulley, though mostly the supercharger. If they get loose there it can make a knocking noise as well and can ruin the nose of the crankshaft to the point it's a throw-a-way job.

I've seen 15:1 compression on a motor with 28psi of boost .... was a diesel powered Mack truck though, so perhaps not helpful in your situtation. A little more info might get you some more answers. Will depend on the engine and how 'laggy' you can live with. You could run 10:1 compression with 0.2bar boost, or you could run 8:1 with 1.5bar boost.

Bit late to the party, I had a 4AFE sitting here a couple of weeks ago. Aircon sits low on the exhaust side of the motor with alternator above. Power steering pump on inlet side. If you're using a 4AGZE motor and want to keep the power steering, you'll have to run the Aircon, just to retain the idler pulley for driving the power steering pump.

Should just be a spherical bearing, will have a circlip on the underside holding it in. Disassemble and press the bearing out, will have a part number on it. You may even be able to see the part number without pressing it apart, but it's usually printed on the outer race so will be hidden by the top lip or the circlip. Any good bearing shop will be able to get that bearing. Don't go cheap on it either. You can get some really cheap sphericals that come with play from the factory, you want something like an NBM or Aurora, but there will be some $$ in it. Also, when you've got it apart, worth checking that the hole the bearing sit's in hasn't 'grown' too much. Particularly if they're alloy tops, the bearing as it get's worn, grow's the outer race and can wear out the hole.

Are those strut tops in the right way round ? Usually the gas post is right at the top of the shock shaft, which ideally would be back towards the firewall and closer to the centreline of the car for increased camber/castor. Or are they out the front there for spring clearance reasons. Have to admit to not being o-fay with early toyota strut tops either.

So progress has been a little slow, but still, progress has been made. Struts, crossmembers and driveshafts are all back in. Even the rotors look a little rusty now. Installed the strutbrace, but I'm really not sure why. They're really quite flimsy, I'm pretty sure an aftermarket version would be a big upgrade. Seems to flex about the transition from round to flat. A gusset right thru the middle would be the go, but the bolts are in the way. When it comes out again I'll just plate in the bottom, creates an asymetric section but meh ! .. it's only a strut brace. Plenty of room between brace and the intake manifold, so plate can be decent size. And where I'm at for the moment. Haven't achieved a lot more on the interior, few things back in and started bolting in the floor tray. This last weekend I stripped the motor out of the parts car, rolled the cars and pinched the bonnet. This weekend is a rally so probably lose a fair chunk of Saturday to spectating and hopefully disposing of the parts car chassis, otherwise hope to get the guard rubbed down and the hole cut in the bonnet to clear the intercooler.

Sounds like a load of marketing w@nk to me. How are these easier to tune that bike carbs ? Flat slide carbs have been on bikes for ages.

Interesting 'garage' concept. From what I've seen, rear wheel drive is typically quicker on tarmac layouts. Most specials are FWD over here (based on Mini's) but I'm told there's a RWD special over east that makes them look a bit silly at the nationals. Problem nowadays is finding a light and nimble RWD car at a reasonable price. Anything RWD seems to attract a real premium price. I'm sticking to FWD for my adventures into rallying, but there's an old RWD car (not Toyota) in the shed that I want to finish off and play with at Motorkhana's. MK's are just good fun and a cheap day out.

20/20 Hindsight and all, but would have been neater to apply the sika between the sheets before riveting them together. If you had access to one, a bead roller would have given a bit more form to the firewall and stopped it from vibrating as much. It'll be a big wobble board now, still won't be able to hear it over the stones though, so doesn't matter that much.

Plenty of silicone in between to make it liquid proof ?

Not sure to be honest. Think it's pretty special stuff. Think you can get it from HKS ? There's a small yellow dipstick on the side of the supercharger, I pulled that out while I was laying under the car recently and had a look at the oil, looked clean as a whistle, so screwed the dipstick back in and forgot about it. Couple of links I found googling; http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=61391 http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=18087

So progress lately seems like one step forwards and two steps back. Lost Saturday helping a mate with his race car, trying to make the sprint at Phillip Island in November so he’s running out of time particularly as he’s just built a new motor and thrown in a new gearbox with electronic centre diff and we can’t get the controller to talk to us at this stage. Sunday, didn’t have a lot of inspiration until the afternoon, but even a few hours spent on it is better than nothing. Finished installing the heater hoses, decided to bolt in the front crossmember, got all but two bolts in, one each side and in the same location. I’m sure they came out fine, but at the moment they won’t go more than half a turn without getting tight. So need to get a tap and run that thru them, hopefully that will sort it, otherwise stuff it. There’s 3 big bolts on each side already. So decide to do something simple and bolt in the radiator. Won’t fit. Have one of those horrible moments when you start to question whether the front radiator support panel for a 4AGE powered corolla is completely different to the support panel on a 4AFE car. Inspection of the rather bent support panel on the old car pointed to some ‘bending’ that occurred well before the crash. I’d purchased another second hand 4AGE radiator a while back just in case, so pull that out as a comparison and it would seem that the radiator that’s been running in the car is from something completely different. It’s at least 15mm wider each side and looks like the other support panel was beaten to hell to make it fit. Explains a few of the other things that never quite fitted on the old car. So this radiator that survived the crash and I spent $50 to pressure test, is useless. Don’t even know what it came off. So I do what I usually do when I need some time to think, throw the ball for the dog and have a beer. Decide ‘Fug it’ the untried second hand radiator can go in. I paid $50 for it and I’m not sure why I paid that much, core doesn’t look the best on it, but it’s $250 for a new 4AGE radiator as they different in top outlet position to a 4AFE car, so this one will go in for now and see if it starts leaking, worry about a new radiator then. You getting the impression I’m over this damn thing ? It get’s better. Radiator fan bracket is now fouling with the front gearbox mount, must have always been close, but now it seems closer. I ground the rubber off the outside of the mount (stupid mass dampening bullshit) and decide to use the fan and shroud that came off the old radiator to maximize the clearance. But, this car sticks it’s middle finger up at me again. Not only is the radiator from the old car a different width, it must also be slightly different height, because the fan and shroud ain’t gonna bolt on to this ‘new’ radiator. Fine ! I’ll use the also untested shroud and fan that fortunately came with the ‘new’ radiator when I bought it. Another middle finger, the plug to connect to the radiator fan has already been cut off the loom and changed to suit the odd fan, so now I’ve had to chop a plug off one of my other looms (lucky I have a few spares at the moment) and solder that on so that I can run the fan. By this stage, I’m tired, but willing to keep progressing the car, but it’s near 8pm and I haven’t done anything for dinner so decide to give it away and look at the car again during the week or next weekend.

Timing seems fine ? or is fine ? If winding the mixture screw in/out makes no (or very little) difference to the idle speed, I'd suspect a leak or an assembly fault, particular if the engine falters once the load comes on.

Winding the mixture screw out would increase revs. Are you sure you're playing with the mixture screw and not the idle stop ? Base setting for the idle screw should be 1.5-3 turns out from seated. Ignition timing will also affect idle speed. Why did you rebuild the carb, what were the symptoms before ?

Manuel had it right.

And some tyre shops are just junk. Had this shimmy in the ex's Mother's car before we were going to drive it from Sydney down to Canberra. She took it to the tyre shop and they checked the alignment and balanced the wheels (supposedly) and said it was a good thing. I put up with it on the drive down, but we still had a way to go after Canberra and this thing was trying to rip the steering wheel out of your hands at low speed, got better as you went faster, but still not great. Got the ex to drive it slowly thru a car park as I walked beside, right when it moved the wheel, got her to stop, checked the tyres and there's a HUGE egg in one of the tyres. Tyre's were fairly new looking, her mother didn't do a lot of K's with the car, but one had let go internally and bulged out. Replaced that with the spare and was like a dream to drive after that. But the fact the tyre shop had supposedly had the wheels off for a balance and checked the alignment, all whilst missing this HUGE egg on the tyre .... yeah ... some tyre shops are junk.

What's with the little stubby leg in there ? is that because the stays coming rearwards from the base of the main hoop would have clashed with the wheel arch if they went straight back to the node ?

Updates bitches ! Though not much. From a while ago, the engine going in; Decided to remove the rear wiper, Rarely use it on the road, never use it at a Khanacross. Didn't save as much weight as I was hoping, the motor is really pretty light. Still maybe a kilo including the wiper. A 1" (25mm) grommet works well. Also removed the 12mm bar from the tow hook. CAMS requires Ø40mm hole, so good reason to update and get rid of another couple of grams. Chopped this bit from the loose end of a buggered tie down. Lightweight and practical, it's a win, win. And where I'm at for the moment. Really should have both driveshafts back in and the crossmember in. Must have pinched the driveshaft seal on a previous install, or perhaps disassembly. So leaving the cross member out till I get that sorted. It can be done with the crossmember in, but it's easier this way. Still have some wiring to finish off. It sucks that I lost all my pics in the computer failure. It's made putting things back together a bit slower than normal. No rush now anyway, just want it finished and ready for next season.

Just have to see how you go mate, if the seats are real bad a pair of cheap covers might be the go. Comes down to the dude on the day.

:offtopic: How are you talking to the E6X ? Do you have an old computer with XP still loaded ? I keep thinking about older Haltech's, but the info I've seen says they all work thru a DOS interface ?

Not really ? :( :ban: August got a little crazy. Helped out crewing for 3 cars (Spec C STI, BMW E30 M-series, Evo 6.5 TME) for Targa west. Resulted in some crazy hours during the event eg 21hr day followed by ~4hrs of sleep backed up by an 18hr day) so that buggered one weekend, had to be there for scruitineering the weekend before that, but at least I got the motor in that weekend. And since then, haven't touched it. Weekend following Targa west I prepped the POS Lantra again and took that out for another fang. Engine still goes hard, CV's are making all sorts of horrible clicking noises now though, I guess full lock, full throttle on 200K km old CV's will cause issues. Dropped the rear sway bar for that event, went much better. I drilled and pinned the handbrake this time so that didn't lock on during a test, so ended up 10th outright. Considering 1st was taken by a sometime ARC competitor in a turbo Silvia, I'm fairly happy with that. Guy's in front of me 'practice' up there a lot more than I do and I didn't help myself by clipping 3 cones during the day (5sec penalty / cone). I was worried that dropping the rear sway bar might have made the car less responsive in the tight stuff, but there's video's on my Youtube channel of the later tests that are in the trees on a pretty tight course and it still slides around pretty well. The advantage was, it just seemed a little more predictable and I wasn't upsetting the handling of the car by trying to second guess what it felt like it was trying to do. Difference isn't absolutely massive, but noticeable. Has me more inspired about the changes I've made to the Rolla. Speaking of which; was having trouble finding parts, just simple stuff and it wasn't holding me up, but no one seemed to have what I wanted, or wanted stupid $$ for it. Who expects to pay $100 for a fender from a car that old ? So I went out and bought a whole car, cheapish ... just so I didn't have to wait around. Anyway, so as I said in the ramble above, have the motor in and hanging, but ran out of inspiration that weekend so that was as far as it went. Stuffed around last weekend with shopping and repairing the daily (new shocks). Big push for this weekend, but I'm not going to make the next event at the end of the month (twilight Khanacross and at the moment, can't even be bothered taking the POS Lantra again either) so that'll be the year done. No more events with my club after that, may be one or two other events, but it'll depend. So now it's just a matter of getting it finished so it's ready for next year and I can move onto the next project. And in the meantime, computer has failed the HDD, so that's in for warranty, bench grinder smoked the on/off switch. So waiting for the 3rd bad thing to happen then I might be safe to work on the Rolla again. Will update with pics once I get the lappy back.

I know a guy who does some machining as a bit of a hobby, based in Forestfield, uses manual machines but produces pretty good work, reasonable price too. Drag racer playing with rotaries, so understands motorsport. You'd have to find someone willing to balance it for you afterwards. I'd stick to the old principles, no less than 13mm thick through where the clutch drives. Take as much from the outside of the wheel as you can, leaving plenty of thickness for where the pressure plate bolts on, big radii at all changes in direction. This link is for a Datsun, but same principles apply Link

The donor motor was from a Levin and not an MR2 ? As I understand the linkage works the other way around on the MR2. If you've taken the whole linkage system across you should be fine. My AE93 has the 4AGZE and gearbox from an AE111 and uses the standard AE93 selector. The selector from an AE101 is actually the cheap 'short shift' upgrade for this car as well. Check your cables are all adjusted properly and get someone to move the gearstick while you stick you head in there and see if it is moving the linkage arms. Other check would be to disconnect the cables and check the movement of the linkages on the gearbox manually. May seem hard to reach, but you can undo a few screws and 'fold' a whole bunch of the electrical harness onto the top of the motor without unplugging any wires, that will then give you easy access to the linkages from above.

Another update, been working on it slowly but surely Rear bumper back on, along with the fuel tank; Interior view from the rear prior to fitout; Late night in the carport, forunately due to the rain the temp wasn't that bad, got a bit done that night; Lots of crap inside, but Hydraulic handbrake is back in; And where I got to at the end of this weekend. Dash is mostly in, need the instrument cluster in, but need to repair some screw holes first (araldyte ftw!). Think I'll drop the motor in next weekend, need to thread some wires down behind the heater (demisting for wet weather) so want to get them sorted before I go too much further. If they don't fit I'll have to undo a lot of what I've already done, but think I should be able to make it.

Snap ! ... also a draftsman in engineering (Mineral processing plants mostly) and also own a AE92 hatch, though mine's currently being rebuilt. Having trouble finding bits at reasonable prices in Perth for the it at the moment. Quite a new plate you have, take it the car's been sitting unregistered somewhere, or had personal plates before ?