thcraig87

Thanks heaps for all the information guys, it has really given me heaps of ideas as to what to do. The only burning question that kind of remains un-answered is the shaving the head idea. I was thinking of staying with standard pistons (I have a set of new ones that came with the rebuild kit) and taking a little extra off the head when it is getting machined. Good or bad idea? Oh and the other thing was, are there any differences between small and big port engines to be careful of when purchasing the parts? Should the rebuild kit, cams etc. all be the same? The real question being, is it just the ports that are different in the 16 valve n/a versions? Thanks again.

Ideas then for aftermarket ECUs? As far as I can see I can go the fuel and ignition, or I can go just fuel? Then the options also include a chip on the standard or a a completely new one. I know that a whole new one will be the best option, although, the best is always the most expensive. Is one of the other options viable or good enough? What has been done?

That's cool mate, I appreciate the information that you have given, cheers.

That website above also says that anything above 256 degrees needs a chip or after-market ECU. The 272s that you have seen running, did they have standard or new ECUs?

So cam shafts and some head work seems like the go. What cams have people used that work well on the n/a engine? I don't want to go too far. The website listed above says that anything above about 270degrees is getting pretty serious. I had a quick look on E-bay and there are some HKS 272 or 256 degrees for about $400 each. Is this an alright price and which would people recommend?

Thanks mate that website is great. Heaps of ideas and it will definitely help me out. I suppose the thing I am wondering about now is valve clearance. There are cuts in the tops of the pistons to ensure that you don't get any contact, so if it is even possible to shave the head a little, how little are we talking? I've been looking to try and find the actual figures for clearance, but not successfully yet.

Hi All I have a Ke35 with a 4age 100kw in it. I have a full rebuild kit and am ready to strip it down and do the job. Before I do so, however, I need to ask is there anyway I can get a small power increase while I'm doing this? I have been going through all the forum topics and have seen many about adding a turbo or supercharger, although, when it is all said and done it would probably be cheaper to just buy a 4agze half cut and start again. This all ends up being too expensive for me. The real questions I need to ask then are: Can you buy different pistons to increase compression, like dome tops? Has anyone shaved the head? Are these bad ideas for this engine? Does anyone have any other ideas? Like I said, I wouldn't mind a little bit more out of her, but I need it reliably and cheaply so if it can't be done its OK. Cheers Craig

Southside Brisbane, eight mile plains. Where are you at Trev? Sorry mate my Internet has been struggling at peak times, why I didn't reply earlier.

Sweet thanks guys it's all really good info. I did some more research on the car and found out that the previous owner had the same problem. He took it to a mechanic and the diagnosis was fuel pressure was too high and that is when they put bigger lines in and out of the surge tank and a couple of others. It's running a VL turbo fuel pump with a Bosch primer pump and a surge tank. I thought it seemed a bit of over kill, but I think the plan at the time was to make the engine bigger and better, but it never eventuated and I want to leave it as is. So this may still be the problem. How can I test fuel pressure? In my research I also found that the mechanic said the sensors, including the map sensor, were working fine and within normal ranges. That was in 07 though and I think she has done a fair few k's since then. So how do I check their function? I have a voltmeter, I just need to know where to start, at the ecu for voltages or at the sensors? On top of that trev can you please let me know just a couple of voltages? Oh and Dave said do a system diagnosis. I would obviously need a mechanic for that right? What computer equipment do I need? Was just thinking it might be the actual ecu, hope not, I had one go in a civic and it cost a fortune, bloody Honda love to charge. If it was the ecu and it was going back to a default mix, is there any easy way to see that? Sorry guys, I've said it in a couple of previous posts, but I'm learning. It's what I bought the car for, to learn and have a hobby. Please pardon my... Uselessness. Cheers Craig

Its six one and half a dozen the other mate. I found that as soon as the days got hot enough to use the aircon was about the same time that the engine was getting too hot to use it anyway. Put in a tri-core radiator just so I could keep the car cool enough to run the aircon in the middle of summer. Plus, I was driving with my brother in the passenger seat one day and he said, slow down, and turned on the aircon. It takes soo much away from an already small engine when you turn it on. But I would say keep it, if all you want is more room to work on that engine it doesn't make it too much harder. But if you want to mod the engine you might need to take it out. Its rare to find them with aircon, so keep it if you can. Keep an eye on your temp gauge if its on, on a hot day though.

Hi All I have a KE35 with a 100kw 4age. A rev at idle or putting your foot down when rolling leads to a fair bit of black smoke. So she is running way too rich. I larger fuel return line was installed at conversion to meet emissions expetations, which I don't think it would meet anymore. I'm just looking for ideas on where to start. The first thing everyone says is tune and yes at one point the stock computer must have been running it with the right mix, but maybe not anymore. How much can be done with the stock computer (if it is still working alright)? Is it worth taking to the mechanic? Is there anything else I could have a look at before we get there? Fianlly has anyone had any good or bad experiences with aftermarket computers in a NA 4age? Suggestions... is it worth it? Cheers Craig

Thanks for the help. Slave cylinder was fine. I blead it and there was no bubbles, which is good. I had a look where the pedals are and found the adjustment on the pedal. Just took off a lock nut, screwed it in a bit and put the nut back on. Its all good. Got heaps of free travel above and below now, no slipping. Its funny how sometimes the easy things turn out to take you all day, then you set time aside for something that you think will be difficult and it literally takes 5 mins. Cheers for the help

Morning All Just need some help. I have a KE35 with a 4AGE 100KW, T50 gear box (bought it last year from Mikoolz, Sydney). I'm having troubles with the clutch. It has been converted to a hydraulic clutch and is relatively new, the old cable adjustment was just a clip on the cable at the firewall, but now I fear its a little more complex. I have had nearly no free travel at the top of the clutch now for a while and have been puting off fixing it, it has finally started to slip (only when accelerating hard when rolling) and I now have no free travel at all. I checked out the slave cylinder this morning and all seems good. My questions are: Does it sound like just an adjustment problem? What else might it be? How can I adjust the clutch to give me more free travel at the top? (Need a bit of detail because I'm a bit useless, still learning) Thanks Craig

Mate if you want to push the boundaries of power you have to go the SR20. Its great how it is just legal to go in the KE35. I was in a mate's 180sx and a KE35 with with a pretty similar setup (we found out later) blew us away. It was great! Although, I have to agree with yrreda25 above and say keep it in the family. You can do a fair bit with a 4agze and its easier than a 3s apparently. The rotor option is something else. I would love to do with mine, but may not achieve everything you want. Best of luck

Mate my first car was a KE70 and I put a kill switch in it in that same spot. I worked in a shopping centre and it was cheap insurance, they aren't exactly hard to get into. I would love to know if the one you have is my old girl??? White, 82 model, square style headlights, 5k conversion when I sold it in about 2004. Only thing is I'm in Brisbane, bought and sold it here. I know its long odds and its probably a popular spot for the kill switch, just thought I would ask. Cheers mate Craig

Yeah Felix is spot on with the formula. Multiplied by 3 for an NA engine or 2.5 for a forced induction. Keep in mind those numbers only apply up to about 1100kgs and then the formula changes again. But that's all you need to know for your KE20.

Mate, I just bought a KE35 a little while ago. I don't know much yet and I am trying to learn. Mine has a 4age 100kw in it and they are definitely custom extractors and 2.5 inch system from there back. Sounds great. Sorry I can't be more help.

Thanks Seabiscuit. Sorry about the wrong info. Would still recommend the 5k upgrade, really does make a difference and is a simple and cheap change over. Yeah the AMR 500s are small, think they came out in 1L engines. I know a couple that have been used in 120Ys for relatively good results. I was just thinking they were smaller and possibly easier to install, however, they are only good up to about 110-120kW, from what I've heard. SC-12 is probably the safe option though.

Yeah mate there are some sc12s and sc14s on ebay here and there. The 4k is pretty small though, maybe an AMR 300 or 500 might be more suited to the smaller engine (not sure about the blow or suck though with those ones). They came out in some little nissans in the early 90s and maybe be a smaller easier option. Its worth your while having a look for a 5k engine too if you can pick up one cheap. Same bore, head, mounts and box as the 4k, with a bit longer stroke making it a 1.5L rather than 1.3L, an sc12 might be more suited then. Both my brother and I did the 4k to 5k change in our old KE70s a few years back and the difference is noticeable. The 5k engine used to be readily available at Jap recyclers a couple of years ago, but are becoming more and more rare. Best of luck