LXY-642

Ok well forget about engine's. That can now stay secret till it's done. Well I'm halfway through fitting vl struts to the ke36. There connected to the k frame. Using the corolla strut tops. Vl lca's are 330mm compared to the corolla 300mm. And from what I could find the sigma lca's that everyone uses are 330mm. The swaybar links fit straight up. Castor rods mount different however so need to work the out. Easiest way appears to be cut the end's of the connect to the lca and weld the commodore one to the corolla one. They line up together at the lca yet they run on different angles. Unless anybody knows of another castor rod I could use? Commodore ones run through the lca and have a nut on the other side. And no o can't just drill 2 holes for the corolla one :P Well after another quick look the easiest way may be to weld a plate to the lca's and mount the corolla castor rods to them

I've got a jatco 4 speed for mine. Just not sure on engine 100% lol. That's awesome that you can keep the 4 speed and have a box that strong for that cheap. A ke36 panelvan prob could get a 1jz in Vic. I'm only 6kg shy of being allowed with my ke36 wagon. Tare weight in act was 860kg. But in Vic it's 900kg lol. I'm allowed up to 2475cc and the 1jz is 2491cc :) I'm spewing. How much power are you wanting for your car?

Will you still be with a 4 speed using your box? That's an awesome price :) I don't get why the keas jatco's are so damn expensive it's quite annoying. No money ATM but I have asked him about 1ggte's and his thoughts etc. Your lucky you can have a 1jz and be legal

It is doing very well in that case then. Are you able to hook up a jatco box to it? Like 6boost did with his 1ggte ke70? Or is it possible to get your auto built to hold the power your after?

Just found out my ke36 misses out on a 1jz being legal by 6kg :) so leaning for a 1ggte. What's done to your gearbox mate? I thought it was built?

I'll prob go a 1ggte. The 1jz is 2.5. Rb20 is 2.0. Already doing everything in the car. Getting caged. Vt brakes on front at minimum with vlt rear brakes. Vl rear diff. I've got vl front struts to see how they go. If they work well I can get adjustable coilovers for it also then. Changing steering to rack and pinion. Sr20's are shit lol. I'm basically down to 3sgte or 1ggte.

called vicroads and the weight is 900kg in vic. leaving me 6kg short of being allowed a 1jzgte :) might call again tomorrow and see if they ment around 900 or 900 exact lol. stupid that its only 6kg from missing out :( not happy. yeah 3sgte and 1ggte are on the list as is rb20det. and 8kg shy of being allowed an rb25. wish is was 910 kg haha

two reason's. 1) wont be legal 2) cost of those are a bit exy for me

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Now considering all engine options. Aim is 300rwkw. Prefer anything that will do it on a stock engine with just the bolt ons upgraded. And the lighter the engine the better. Everyone's opinions/thoughts will be greatly appreciated. And yes I am dead set wanting 300rwkw. I think my bp motor I have can just push that at it's limit. Mate is telling me to put a 1ggte. He reckons stick to Toyota as they are strong engines

Loving the 1jz power this has :)

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Nope. No idea yet lol. Which is why I'm still not 100% on an engine. The cars currently a bare shell ready for paint to be stripped off it. And I've got my vl which I'm undecided on gearbox but 99% going auto in. And my xr is the only one I know 100% what I'm doing with the whole car. And all I know about the rolla is that I want 250-300rwkw

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I've read that a 4k is 114kg. And a 13b was I think about 110? Don't qoute me on the 13b. No time to look it up now. And can't remember what was included on the 4k to get the weight either?

Just picked up some vl front struts for the rolla last night. See how they go :)

Manufactuer's run basically the smallest size turbo they can on there engine's to make it feel more like a non turbo car so that it flows better. As the majority of buyers are non performance nuts and are after a smooth driving car. Hence you always run a turbo that a factory would fit to something bigger on a smaller engine. And 6,000 on a 4k with your pissy little ct9? Sorry but you'll be way out of efficiancy by then easily. A t25g standard on an s13 sr20det. Read 2.0L engine will start to run out of puff at around 5-5,500rpm on a 5k and that's only a 1.5L so on a 4k would prob start dropping of around 5.5 to 6 grand. And I'd recommend a t25g at the smallest. My mrs has a t25/t28 turbo on her 4k. Basically your stupid for wanting to use a turbo of a 1.3L unless you only want like 50-60rwkw and like to waste money. And tax_rx well he would be one of the most experianced guys on here when it comes to turbo k motor's and you just blew him and wouldn't listen to his actual FACTS from his own turbo 4k he had and now turbo 5k he has. A t25g 0.48 rear turbo on a 4k will spool quick and eat your ct9 powered 4k on the same boost all day everyday and have potential for more power also. And shot yourself in the foot is being nice. I'd say shot yourself in the kneecap buddy. If you want a stock 1.3 turbo go buy a stock charade. No point in putting effort into turboing an engine just to choke it with a ct9 lol. Unless you want less top end then a stock n/a 4k cause that's what the ct9 will do. It'll choke the shit out of it up top. Matt.

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I got a 302 Windsor sitting in the shed :) might be a bit much. But got a spare vl diff sitting around the side to balance it back up haha

Forged bottom ends only allow a motor to put up with more detonation. It's all in the tune. And making sure that your not starving it of oil. With some exceptions. Like when the clearances are ran to tight as factory so when you start pushing more and more power it eventually becomes to much as the expanding of the pistons won't fit in the bores. Hence the rattle of some forgies before warming up :)

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mods please delete this thread.

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