rockcox

I know why they're defected, all reasons have been discussed. My point; why does a defect mean you have to sell them. KE's are sooo easy to work on and fix. I had to do it twice with my 25 (once after letting the rego expire). It feels good to drive a well sorted car. I really just wanted to start the discussion and perhaps lift the standard of corolla modders.

More defected ke70s than locusts in SA. Maybe I'm getting old, but cop bait isn't cool in my opinion. I used to enjoy it when the cops looked over my loud, rough looking ke25 and then let me go because it was in perfect mechanical condition.

After doing a big drive in an old car, 1000k doesn't seem like much. take tools! Fan belts and radiator hoses are good to keep in an old car even for short drives. I find it good to think of the distance as "three times to melbourne and back" or something like that. Pace yourself.

Rapidshare sucks! I just downloaded Toyota_Corolla_1992-1997_wyd_Haynes.rar I think it's Polish! Like I wasn't confused enough :bash: I found the one I needed Toyota_Corolla_E11_manual.pdf :laff: Now I know I do need an extra relay block. I will have to use the ae95 one because I didn't get the blacktop one with my engine.

Hey Jeremy, the crank pulley is the one on the front of the engine that all of the belts connect to. It's on the end of the crank. I think you need to learn a little bit about how an engine works. It makes all of these problems a little less mysterious and also helps you explain what is actually happening. When I said see if the crank pulley moves in and out when you step on the clutch, I'm trying to figure out if your engine is completely knackered internally. I have seen at least one 4k continue to run when it is destroyed inside. Good luck......

I'm preparing my car for summer use now, which means AC needs to work, Cooling fans need to work automatically. I would like the idle-up system to work as well. I have used the complete AE111 loom, ecu and fuse box. Many of the wire colours are correct in the graft to the AE95 loom, but some I have guessed. Some I have traced back, and some I have just connected to earth or 12v to get the bugger running. Without the full AE111 wiring diagram to work from, it seems that I have done something wrong in the wiring. While trying to get the fans to work with the temp switch I have found that when I flip my manual fan switch the engine starts cranking! Is there a separate fan relay that I'm missing I am trying to figure out where I went wrong. Do I have the starter switch wired into the back door of the fan circuit? My understanding of auto electrical is fairly basic and the circuits in these newer efi engines are anything but basic. I think the fan circuits are connected to the starter circuit somehow (so that the fans do not run while cranking). Is this true? I have the car booked into the auto elec on monday to do the AC hoses and gas, but am trying to straighten out the funny business first. And before anybody asks, google gives me a bunch of results of people looking for the diagrams that I need. My ecu is fine, it's the main fusebox that's the problem. Any general advice would be very helpful

When you say "turns off" do you mean it shakes and stalls? Or does it quietly stop? Does it only do this on hills? Carby Float level / fuel pump / fuel tank. I had a crap 4k once that threw it's thrust bearings into the sump. Motor ran OK except I couldn't start it with the clutch in. (How tough are these k engines?!!!) Get someone to step on the clutch while you watch the crank pulley. If it moves in and out that will be your problem. All of your other problems are pointing to electrical or fuel supply, but this one is mechanical. Do you try to start with the clutch in or in N with the clutch out?

Hey Stephen, I found a bullbar on ebay.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Toyota-Corolla-AWD-Sr5-AE95-4wd-/290472007541?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a17b1775

And the original topic....... I think a bit of a dxf library would be great, inlet & exhaust shapes, gaskets and bolt patterns etc. I'm happy to contribute where I can.

For what it's worth, we use bricscad www.bricsys.com at work for drafting. It's fully compatible with autocad including list routines and costs less than a cup of coffee ($350+). And best of all it's available for linux.

OK Trev, will do that. Bendix also list the 1602 for my AE95 so I may have problems there too. What do people think about my parts listed incorrectly idea?

Just a thought, Would it be worth creating a thread or discussion board to identify incorrectly listed parts and, once confirmed, for a moderator to officially contact the manufacturer on behalf of the group and have their listings changed? How many ae82 owners know that they need to order 120y shoes?

My Housemate says "well they work..."

Hi all, Just replaced brake pads, shoes and fluid on my housemate's 1988 AE82 Seca. Bendix bs1602 shoes (right) have about 5mm less width than the ones that came off. No drama, my parts guy said it's OK and that they probably use a different compound that gives the same stopping. Not that the rears do much anyway. The only thing is if they ever get replaced again the drums may need machining..... having said that, the brakes will probably outlive the car. what was more worrying and annoying was that the shoes didn't fit into the adjusting slots properly I had to file a bit off the slot (bendix on the right) so that they seated all the way. New parts on old cars; you always need to modify something.

thanks Trev! I'll check that out this weekend. :blinks: