NickZ

Once more just incase *** Warning*** cutting the power off a coil on a running engine will cause detonation/missfires that can and will damage a engine. Even it it does SOUND better, I think safer is better. Grounding the coil wire through the relay is the safer way.

or just go get a dicksmith/jaycar rev limiter kit.

30 would be on the coils negitive, 87a (normaly closed) not connected to anything and 87 connected direct to ground, what will happen is the car will run as normal, when the shiftlight comes on the turns on the relay and that will connect 30 and 87 together , making the negitive side of the coil go direct to ground. That will stop the coil from firing (will be in charge mode for the next spark and this is what the points do when they are closed) untill the revs drop, when the shift light goes out the relay will let go of 30 and 87 and letting the points take over from there ready to fire the next spark and then it will fire at the correct time. so 30 to negitive on coil 87 to ground No cutting of wires just splice 30 in to the negitive coil wire

I think i should have explained it different, don't brake the circuit, braking the positive or the negitive will result in the same thing, missfire and detonation, but you can use your setup to pull the negitive side of the coil to ground. will have the same effect as rev limiting but save the missfires.

Just remember to check the relay first, most 87 and 87a are the same for "on" as they are ment for driving lights, one pin for each light, you have to check that they are seperate. Pulling the power from a coil can be dangerous. when power is connected the coil charges, when power is removed the coil lets out the spark (eg when the points open it fires not when they close, the points complete the circuit to ground when closed, thus charging the coil). you can get pre ignition causing a missfire and detonation on a cylinder and we all know what happens then. Would be better to pull the negitive side of the coil with the relay to ground the spark will stop (charging the coil) and when the revs come down it will fire in the correct cylinder as the points will take over pulling to ground untill the next ignition fire comes.

MSCT Drift practice day 23th feb Symmons. Early notice for the drift practice day (simon) at symmons. MSCT web site See you all there.

I'm here alot more than you know. options are always give if you want to get something going, Ive done it a few times, But its you people that can't be bothered or just don't turn up. I have no problem getting things going if you want to do something. Put your idea forward. My job as well it to look after the forums and keep you guys inline and seems to be happening as i don't have to do alot. But no problem if you wish to change reigon leader Cassy. Ps: i don't pop up much as i only add on topic content and not chitchat crap and clutter threads.

:P no v6 rolla for motorkana and i don't want to thrash the rex. I'm starting work on the 20valve rolla this weekend so i a few months it might be ready for some action.

This is the Last warning on this thread next time it will be locked, Item for sale go in the For sale section. You can tell members here that you have a for sale thread and link to it. But the main reason for this thread it to let people know of things that may not be advertised here in the for sale threads. example : you see a ad in the news paper or a for sale on a window of a car etc. No more warnings.

Ive done the ra60 to ke30 brake upgrade, lower spring seats need to be changed or modified (i put coilovers on) as the spring diameter is too large, you can use the KE30 spring and top as it all fits if you change the lower spring seat and the lower control arms need to be made longer by about a inch and a half to 2 inches to fix the positive camber. I paid $300 for my struts and Lower control arms, you will need to change the brake master cylinder as the pistons on the ra60 brake has a much larger piston and the pedal becomes spongy feeling, but still stops ok.

Yeah, imagine a manual V6 rolla in the wet, 4th gear in a stright line had no trouble i never had the balls to try in 5th. These things are bloody dangerous, Way to much torque for the weight. I never had to much trouble with mine as i drove it with respect on the streets and i hope the new owner of mine does so too.

looking at is current state, is it really worth doing anything with. i would think the first bump you hit the car will collapse around you.

Have you though about the heat generated by the turbo on the last two inlet runners? You may have problems with the air temp differences between the front inlets and the rear.

Went to a local Drift Practice day, did ok, got better as the day went on, This was my first time drifting. The car had no troubles drifting, the driver did :D I did get some good angle and linking happening. Had plenty of power, just left it in 3rd and used the throttle to over steer, never touched the handbrake, my reactions arnt fast enough, not as young as i used to be. Any time i had understeer i just punched the throttle and it would go where the wheels where pointing.

Josho is a bloody good driver, He will do well in the future. As for me, i think i did ok for my first time and in a car thats not a good drift car, but I'm over drift doesnt really do it for me. This would be what he was spotting :)

bloody hell a 1883 ae86 sprinter, steam powered or single cylinder?, well i guess it would have some nice wooden 27" wheels :y:

Yes sway bar is fixed, Ive used the KE30 one it was a bit longer, so it clears the sump and i had to make some new mounts.

Well its going, just need to finish the exhaust to the rear and make a new surge tank to mount under the tray, Goes well. so it Now has: 4AGE 20V T50 5 Speed Microtech MTX 8 Multi Coil Ignition VP Aluminium Radiator Hand Made Extractors and Exhaust sortened KE30 tail shaft with 1200 rear yoke, KE30 front Cross Member RA40 Front Struts, LCA KE30 Tie Rods KE30 Sway Bar Celica clutch master cylinder KE30 Speedo Cable and soon cluster KE30 Steel rims with white walls Relocated the Battery to the Passenger side And yes the bonnet does shut and just clears the trumpets just touches the cleaner a bit

mine only had one OXY sensor, mine was the first VN engine. Ive heard of people adding a second sensor. now that ive had my engine out and back in I'm getting a back fire sometimes when cranking if the battery is a little low, as cranking makes the battery power drops the coils let go of their charge as if it was going to fire and causes the backfire.

Ok boys and girls here is the chance to test your ride, The tarmak dragway will be holding once a month meets for street cars. Its about time this happend and if there is enough support it will keep going. Check it out Tasmania Dragway Event Page

the Silver rolla is now engineless and a few other parts and also unregistered, Will rubild it with a Turbo motor of some sort in the future.

ive have the ute for a few years now, it was time for a upgrade, No the bonnet wont shut with the trumpets and cleaners, ill have to go for new straight trumpets.

Todays progress. With a small amount of modification the ke30 front X member bolted in, so no fabrication was needed for the engine mounts, its all bolted in.

"Oh no not another thread", Yes its me again. This is my Datsun 1200 ute thats has more Toyota parts than Datsun. Upgraded to a 4AGE 20V, T50 Box and Microtech all from my 2 door KE30 and it already had KE30 front struts, LCA, Tie rod ends and steering arms. More pics as i go, but this was 4 hours work so far including pulling out the old engine. Engine mounts on the Xmember will be next and by the looks of it its going to take abit of fabrication work.

stop the chat, use other means for this dribble. Use the thread for Parts or it will be locked.