NickZ

I think maybe you should explain yourself's better about the water. i can see someone with lots of water dropping it down the carb and breaking pistons. Water locking the engine, Please don't do that, spray a light mist into the carb, water will not burn or compress. Id go the carby cleaner or hand method.

one goes to + side of the coil and the other goes to the - side, from memory one is black that will go to the - negitive and the other, well + positive of the coil...bit don't remember the colours.

GRRRRRRRR I can't find any cheap wheels here. u lucky people

I have owned similar wastegates, Yes the screw in the middle will adjust the boost. I puts more spring pressure on, so the wastegate will hold more boost before opening. the pipe is a pressure regulator that goes to somewhere (i don't remember) and smooths out the action, stops boost spikes etc. Now adjusting the wastegate that way wont give you too much more boost, by looking at the pic it looks like its most of the way in, My one i had in a turbo Gemini ( i can imagine everyones reaction to that one), i could adjust from 1 psi to 10psi max so i had to use a turbo smart boost controller to get more, I was running around 18psi.

yes, they would be multi fit 4X100 and 4X114.3, if the guy said spacers it as Grimwolge has explained to correct the offset. There are two types of spacers i know alot about the as both my cars need them, upto 3mm spacers the just go on before the wheel (carefull of these as there is less wheel stud and thread for the wheel nuts to go onto) i use some of them on the rear of my pulsar so the wheel clears the rear swing arm, and i uses 18mm bolt on spacers on the front of my corolla and 38mm (yes i said 38mm almost 2 inches) bolt on spacers on the rear, Yes in australia they are illegal for road use (shhhhhhh don't tell anyone).

now you sure you don't want to sell them to me :greenbounce:

From what i can see, its not a 2t-g this it the manifold i just took off mine. Good luck finding what it came off.

i was watching a show the other night and there was a 1902-5 not sure of the year steam car, Now that was a work of art and machanics, i was approx the size of other petrol cars of that time.

oh no it wasnt on the street...was at a drag meeting, true :P

i looked at a electronic dizzy (reluctor type) for the 2t-geu and its around 3 inchs taller than my standard points type dizzy, the extra hight to clear the fuel rail. more money..oh well, ill have to change the ECU too for the reluctor, lucky i have another Microtech ECU for a 4age here that also uses reluctor and maybe the maps might be similar if I'm lucky. does any one know the injector sizes between the two motors?

yeah there must be...when i said mod the dizzy it ment attacking it with a grinder and cutting off some of the housing at the end of the vacuum advance id say almost 1 inch as it sticks out, and shaved off a bit in the dizzy cap and it still rests hard against the fuel rail.

Redwarf, not a fan of the machanical part or the computer part Yes the computer part would suck as it uses AFM, but as far as the rest goes, is not a bad design...has a huge fuel rail, runners are a good length for torque and revs. I'm using a standard points dizzy for now that i have modded to work for a pulse for the Microtech ECU as it controls ignition as well, uses a holden Ignitor module and a standard coil. the other problem i had was setting it up as the dizzy touched the fuel rail so i cannot adjust the timming by moving the dizzy, so i had to do it within the dizzy. was alot of messing around. i am on the look out for a electronic dizzy, but these are hard to come by and then cost too much.

I should know injection...i am the Microtech dealer for Tasmania so i install a few ECU's, and anything I own I fit EFI. I finished the car today and its made alot of diffrence from the carbs more lowdown power and it feels like it has a turbo now....from 4000 rpm it just snaps to 6500 (rev limit) in no time, the carbs seemed flat responce to 6000rpm and there was not much power lowdown, The noise of twin carbs sucking has gone, but the power gain is better. I'm hoping next month ill be able to dyno tune it...just need tosave a truck load of cash to pay for it.

anything you don't need a fan for is good....i can drive in traffic and it still sits on normal temp..the thermostat takes care of the temp so it doesnt keep too cold. ive always found toyotas overheat when thrashing, so this time i fixed it even doing a slow moving burnout for 100m it wont over heat. so to answer you question....no its not to big for what i do with the car.

See ya, old bitch when cold, flat spot, dirty carbs, They are finally gone. Replaced with smooth running, easy start EFI 1 days work and all going again :) :D :D :fuzz: :P

That site is old. Microtech are the best for performance and price....Oh, But i have to say that :) its my job.

I also have a 2.25 with extractors on my 2T-geu Straight through muffler under the car and a 2.5 cannon out the back and on the highway its bloody noisy. not sure what it would be like standard power wise. I think its gutless over the whole power range, I'm hoping the EFI fixes that, also the twin carbs being a little out of tune wouldnt help. But I'm also used to my turbo pulsar with microtech ECU and 14psi boost :P

one is positive ignition on,one is the negitive side of the coil (fires the coil) don't earth/ground it. its a reluctor dizzy. i can't remember the standard wiring colours....if you tell me the colours i might remember what goes where

maybe its single point injection...it look a little like a carb but has 2 injectors in it

yep tassie....post pack LOL

I want the square head light grill

do all you people have short memories? its all been done before with at EFI setup but i cannot show the pics as i only deleted them a few days ago..no changing head, change tappet cover and bolt on the manifold...if you have extactors youll have to break out the middle bolt webbing on the inlet manifold to fit, if you are using the original exhast manifold (has the oxygen sensor, the standard computer WILL need it) the flange will most likley be diffrent my original was a 3 bolt and the efi exhast will be 2 bolt exhast flange. Using the original ECU, youll need the AFM, Microtech computers range around the $300-$600 that will be enough to run it. Problems i found are the injectors are not big enough if you have any work done to the motor and because of the way the manifoldhas long runners it wont rev but will have mega torque.... my ke70 had no trouble keeping both rear wheels smoking in second gear. without the injection had trouble even spinning the wheels in first. The injection will not make huge amount more HP, It also will NOT produce more HP over twin carbs etc as it wont flow the air, again because of the design. a custom plenum bolted on the injector part of the manifold (getting rid of the long runners) with a big throttle body would work well and would be better than twin carbs and i think could be built for less than the twin carbs too. and some where i have the pin outs for the 4K ecu if you need them

the fuel guage uses a positive from the ignition circut and the sender is a resistor that runs to ground/body (negitive)....the more fuel you have in the tank to closer to ground (negitive) it becomes, so the guage reads higher (torwards full). The guage will be hard to move if you are pushing it with your fingers as most use a special metal that changes shape as it gets hotter..wrapped around the metal is wire that is shorted between positive and negitive as the sender reads full or empty and produces heat to make the guage work (same at the temp/oil etc). you will be able to test it but hooking it up to power...but be carefull you only do really short zapps as holding it on the power will stuff the guage as it never really get a full 12 volts and there is also a regulator similar to the guages but has contact points the open and close to regulate the power. hope this helps

Ive been cleaning it up abit more and taken a new picture.

Thanks guys. even people i know here didnt say anything...