NickZ

:D ;) :S Its running, It bloody loud without exhaust just the headers. :S :S :D Exhaust, water works, clutch master and tail shaft to go

Todays progress is good, engine bolted up, starter motor fits even cranked it over, manifolds on. tomorrow night i hope to fit the fuel line and start the engine.

Something i learned today commodores there are two starter motors 1 for manual and 1 for auto, The auto one is like a corolla one but the manual one had a reduction drive and is huge. Well mine being manual the starter is huge and doesnt fit between the engine mount and the bellhousing and the engine was too low so the xmember was in the way. ive moved the engine mount on the xmember further forward and lifted the engine. but it cost me another day. i should have checked before

Things i did today. header now clears the steering box. this is how the bellhousing clears the tunnel. Rear xmember location, still needs a little mod. Fitted with the new commodore rear spring in the front for standard right height.

thats what i thought they where W boxes, but i do know mine is a w58 and the tail shaft from the corona wagon must have a bigger output shaft as this one is sloppy and wont go very far in. I'm hoping by tomorrow afternoon ill have something, but on the upside of it, the uni joint was the same as the one in the ke tail shaft, so i hope most models use the same and ill just have to change the yoke as the tailshaft is the right length.

engine and gearbox are in, got the engine in the rightplace first time and even the tail shaft is standard length and using the supra rear xmember and it bolts to the original mounting holes. The bellhousing was a worry when it turned up as i thought it would never fit, but a few taps with the large hammer and there is no problem I bought a new pressure plate for ebay for $31.40 delivered to my door. Only things left is the clutch master cylinder and exhaust, one manifold is fitted, i still have a clearence problem with the drivers side with the steering box that ill fix at the weekend. then bolt in everything else like the radator and i hope by the end of the weekend it willbe going. I thought i had got the tail shaft yoke sortedout, but no, was the wrong one, you ask the wreckers for a W5x tail shaft and i got something from a 1980 corona wagon, not sure what the hell that gearbox is.

Ive put my temp sensor at the front outlet, the outlet that goes to the top radiator hose.

Its the best volvo in the world, id own it and id wear the big brimmed old mans hat while driving. coz we all know that old men that drive volvos are slow carefull drivers :jamie:

Modified the Xmember to fit the Commodore engine mounts Engine now all bolted up, most things fit, but i did this without the bellhousing so i hope it all fits. This is where i wanted the engine to sit. so if the bellhousing doesnt fit ill modify the firewall and tunnel till it does :jamie: the drivers side exhaust manifold just needs to be hit with a hammer to make a dent and it will clear the steering box easy, the other exhaust needs one quick cut and shut to clear the steering on the other side. Castlemaine Rod Shop are supplying the bellhousing. It will take the supra clutch slave,fork,thrust bearing and carrier. I use the supra clutch plate and the commodore pressure plate, can't get any easier than that. Exhaust,rear xmember,tail shaft, wiring and water works are next weekends jobs. I'm going to miss the drag meet nextweekend but it will be ready for the next

Hmmmmmm my Port-A-Walls arrived today, If you don't know what they are, its a rubber inlay fitted to the rim and is held on by the bead of the tire Shame the rest of the car looks like crap.

gearbox is out and waiting, pulled it out sat afternoon.

I just ordered my set of port-a-walls for my ke30 you beat me to it. But they look great.

you can over tire a car, putting wide rubber is not always the best idea, wet weather is where a light car and big rubber is dangerous. I run 185/60/13 on my car for racing and there is no advantage of putting bigger, don't waste you money.

are you using the shield on the microtech pickup wiring as a common earth for the CAS pickups? You should'nt have had to do that with the pickups, so it sounds like the mistake i did on my first 4age install. If so DON'T it is not the correct way to do it, this will cause rough idle, missfires and basic bad running. I can't remember the wire (I think its light blue), is used as the common. But the funny thing is it goes back to the ground and the shield at the ECU. Don't earth the shield at the motor either is should just be just left with some heat shrink over it or tape.

Nice idea, but that going to be an expensive day for some of us :P i think id use $50+ in petrol, count me out, plus i wont have my licence back, i get it back on the 24th

Ill help you out. pics of his new car.

The flip/flop circuit should work as long as the home pulse rests the circuit so it can fire number one again, the engine fires on every 30 deg crank and a home signal at 720 crank the home signal will also be needed when you crank the car over, so it will know when to start the firing at #1, you also have to make sure the flip/flop is disabled untill it gets the home signal pulse.

I bought a set from the spring works at invermay for $60 full set

Umm...that brake package wont fit those wheels will it?

My problem is i think my 20v water pump is about to die, it leaks coolent while its cold but once running for 2 min it ok, I have no idea where i would buy a 20v one, so i am hoping a 16v one will be the same asi can get them cheap

Welcome to the world of leaf spring rear ends. Ive done heaps of diffrent setups and have been trying not to go to tramp bars, but nothing i have done works, I think mostly its lowering blocks that do it. I'm using 7 leafs with good koni adjustable shocks, its hard in the rear almost unmovable. Also using sticky toyo proxy ra1. it still tramps bad. irokin has the best and fun idea, just put shit tires back on. Those tramp bars are definitely the wrong way around.

Name: Nick Car: KE30 2 Door Motor & Driveline: 4AGE 20V T50 Gearbox Suspension & Brakes: RA40 struts, Brakes, 7 Leaf rear springs, whiteline rear sway bar Wheels & Tyres: 13 x 7 spitfire 2, Toyo Proxy RA1 Interior: 2x Autotechnica fixed back fiberglass seats, stripped Body:Resparyed some silver colour with BMW Blackish colour on the bonnet.

I hate you pricks that do that.

Ive been wanting to ask this question, Is the 4age 20V water pump the same as a 16 valve one?

No they will not rego this car with 17" Tasmanian regulations only allow 2" above standard, 13" standard so 15" is the biggest. Ill have standard 13" wheels on it, i will be using standard 13" with white walls and it will be lowered heaps. The exahust is standard, when i put the v6 in ill be using bigger but I'm going to modify a standard muffler at the rear. so back on it will look like a 1.5" out. but the bigger exahust will dump out the bottom of the modified muffler