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Nemesis

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About Nemesis

  • Birthday 11/07/1982

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    Townsville QLD

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  1. simple to build twincharger bypass valve. no thanks required.
  2. the left and right sides take care of themselves through the vehicles existing cross members. bolt in units should be perfectly legal as they don't really require any major modification (I recommend using crush tubes should you decide to bolt through chassis rails via existing holes), but weld in units definitely need engineer consultation and a certified welder to sign the job off once work is completed. here's an example of a serious job.
  3. the ones pictured are mass produced for the new ford mustangs. in smaller old school cars (like my old gemini) the cars chassis usually consists of 2 halves, front and rear, and the floorpan acts as the joiner between the 2. I just take a few lengths of 75x40mm 2mm rhs and fabricated sections that are welded in literally joining the front and rear main chassis sections together. there really is no guide to it, every car is different.
  4. for the cost involved to fit commodore struts in, I think you'd be better off using the hopper stoppers kit, available in any pcd you like. when you factor in the costs of buying commodore struts, then modifying them to suit (shortening, reconditioning, ect) it would probably be cheaper to just use hoppers kit. I would also reccomend using the ford stud pattern, as the wheel selection is much broader.
  5. I'm not familiar with the chassis on these cars, but perhappes welding in a pair of chassis connectors would help to stiffen things up a bit. Ive welded them into all manner of vehicles, really helps when the chassis is soft in these tin shoeboxes. these are along the lines of what I'm talking about.
  6. lol just to clear it up, I'm not looking to actually DRIFT the car, I just like the styling these cars have.
  7. my last project was a td gemini, I was in the process of making a mitsubishi fto v6 to an a904 torqueflite transmission from a mitsubishi scorpion when my last landlord decided it was time for renovating and asked us to move. I had an old corona rt100 back when I was 18, my first car and I had a little fun with it before the rust demons destroyed it. be assured when I start to narrow down my choice of vehicle I'll update my first post but for now I suppose a checklist of what to look for on these vehicles would do, such as common problem areas for rust or mechanical failure.
  8. Hi guys, I'm looking for advice for my next project. I have recently been forced to abandon my last toy due to the body corporate at my new address refusing to let me keep an unregistered vehicle on the premesis, to now I'm looking for something complete that can be tinkered with while I'm using it for daily purposes. I have an onslaught of parts I have kept from the last car that I would like to carry over to the new one, such as a brand new pair of 235/45/r17 tyres, various guages, so on and so forth. my plans are to use an oldschool corolla from ke10 to ke70 or an old corona rt100/120. motivation is at this moment looking to be a rwd 5s-fe bottom end rebuilt to suit a 3s-gte head. I plan to lower the vehicle with the wheels and spend some time cleaning up the exterior and adding some jdm style accessories. the engine will be pieced together in the garage over time until all the components are ready for a straight swapover. any advise of links people might have to help along the lines of parts suppliers and tech information would be appreciated. the reason for my broad choice of project is because these vehicles are becoming hard to find, so I will be purchasing the first suitable car I can find.
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