Twinky

I would have thought that bill was common knowledge around here? There is actually alot more usefull info on this page http://www.billzilla.org/engineintro.htm Also follow the links to more info on engine parts. The 4age mods are pretty mutch generic info although still very informative for those that do not know.

Yes you are infact correct! They are 6kg front and 4kg rears, cheers I'll update the post. Can't say you would enjoy being a passenger :jamie: The ride is really stiff but grip is phenominal (as is tyre wear). Still pondering on carby, the missus won't be happy that I'm already planing to mod the daily :D Been looking at wade cams and I might get one, just need to figure out how aggressive I can make it without any other mods to the head. i can make the exhast myself aswell as an adaptor plate but changing the cam is about as far as i would go for internal work. Haha! I just found out the 4k's have the best immobaliser factory fitted. Just take out the dizzy rotor!

Well it is simple really. Just get another front bar and cut off the bottom section, flip it upside down and bolt it on! Easy! Cut along the dotted line (note that the lip is already bolted on in this photo so just imagine it is not there) Flip upside down and bolt it on! You are left with a bit of a gap next to the wheels so just cut up a mud flap and stick it on (bolt it on first to mark out the excess to cut) And hey presto!

Hi guys, Just thought I'd Introduce myself as I have always been trawling through this site and have recently aquired a ke55 sedan. My name is Alex and I live in the modbury area in SA. I am a DIY backyard mechanic and Electronics Technitian/Engineer by trade. My pride and joy is my 1986 AE82 Twincam Corolla. I bought it years ago and slowly fell in love with the beast. The nimble response and go-kart feel has always put a smile on my face when I hop in the car. Especially after driving my missisus honda so called sports car! Anyway, It all started with little things untill the motor blew a rear main seal and my mechanic wanted to charge me an arm and a leg to fix it. So what do normal people do? They find a 20v silvertop and slap it in while on a so called sickie/long weekend. Then I fell into the black hole that is modding..... Lightwhieght flywheel Xtreme heavy duty clutch AE93 front brake upgrade 258mm by 22mm disks Bazda spec race coilovers 6kg front 4kg rear 30 way adjustable dampening running -2.5 camber Standard sway bars and strut brace 3" cat back system with magnaflow cannon (way too big, need 2.5" cat back) Bucket seat Haltech (yet to fit so that I can use velocity stacks) And the work still continues, the car is in a hundred peices and is a good month away from completion. Which is why I now own the lovely ke55 Anyhoose here it is! This is when I first fitted the silvertop Then taken to mallala with standard brakes and suspention (not a good idea) but still managed to pull a 1:35 Here is a video link Then I made my own front and rear lip aswell as grille And most recently installed coilovers! (gotta love that 3 wheeling clearance!) And now the car is in peices :D And here is my new daily :jamie: \ Cheers guys!

This is the link to my insperation http://opc.mr2oc.com/online_parts_ca...nts/mounts.asp And this is how I have done it. Note that this only applies to engine mounts of this type and similar If any of you have changed an engine mount and wanted a genuine part from toyota you already know how painfull it would be in the pocket. So this is a really good idea..... if you can find the stuff..... Well fortunately i have found some but am waiting on the results to verify how well it works. This is some of the stuff you can buy. It's ready to mix and can fill approx 3 engine mounts (I only prepped 2 mounts and had to discard of the remaining rubber). When you are working with it wear a mask and rubber gloves. It's pretty nasty stuff so don't spill it everywhere! The first step is to remove all the deteriorated rubber inside the mount. This is the hardest part of this DIY as it is time consuming. Basically what you have to do is cut around the outside of the rubber where it is attatched to the mount and slowly scrape/ cut/ burn anything you can do to get the rubber out. Mine were easy because they were already falling apart and all I needed to do was to easily pull out the centre pin and cut the rubber out with a very sharp/flexible knife. You don't have to get it all out, just enough so you can get a drill and a wire brush inside it and then it becomes easy. Make sure to clamp the mount down to something that has a hole in the bottom to drop all the rubber swarf while using the drill. (as you can see I did not do this for the first one) Once the mounts are done clean up the centre pin in a similar fashion. Now that you are ready to pour the rubber in and easy way I have found is to get some duct tape and line the bottom of the mount with it. This way there is no chance of any rubber finding a hole to flow out of. What I have found is that you can use a blank CD holder lid to keep any spillage from messing things up. Now BEFORE you go ahead and pour away you have some options. 1: not worry and just pour away 2: if you want to be able to easily change the bushes next time line the insides of the mount and outside of the pin with wax so that the rubber does not stick to the walls and you can press them out far easier! i have just lined the pin with wax because you have to centre the pin after the rubber has dried ( the pin is wider than the mount so it sits taller when you cast the mount). Ok so put the pin in the middle of the mount and push it down hard to stick to the duct tape on the bottom otherwise it will also fill up with rubber. Ok sunshine now you can pour away..... AWESOME! Also note I have not said what the product is because I am still unsure of how it will turn out. So I do not want anyone to buy this stuff and then screw up your car. I will wait and see how it fairs.