Twinky

Ok never mind me it was my own stuipid fault I could not get it out, it's out now and will be on the way to Crow Cams shortly. Omg Omg Omg!! My engine now runs PERFECTO! It is seriously amazing and actually has some poke in it, I have fallen in love again. After all my troubles everything has now been sorted out. Finally!!! The electronic distributor that KE Motorsport sells is a must have! Also I must stress how important valve clearances are, it only took me 20 mins to check and adjust and not when the thing is idling I can't even hear the engine from the cabin! Amazing! I'm absolutely stoked.

Quick question. How the hell do I remove the thrust bearing on the camshaft??? Do I have to disconnect anything from the rear of the engine??

Yeah I'm still keen. Also you wouldn't happen to know what they mean when thay say I have to supply my own billet for a camshaft grind?

Probably around the 8mm mark in mild steel, even 10mm should be fine. I might not go down the quad carby road, the bloke from KE Motorsport has been putting AMR500 ideas into my head.

Ok time for a quick update. Quad carbies are on hold untill I can get some sort of steel intake plate because welding the alloy plate is doable but quite tedious. Anyhows i contacted Crow Cams and they said they can do a 606 grind for $100. Dayam thats cheap. Only they said I have to supply my own billet in a good condition. Does that mean a camshaft or an actual piece of billet steel? I didn't want to ask them to sound stuipid. Got my Electronic Distributor from KE Motorsport, Looks the goods and the bloke definately knows his Corollas. Will be installing it tonight.

You can't go wrong with bazda's Coilovers. If you need anything else go to www.ae82.net

Doubt it would work very well. But hey i'm probably wrong anyway, only way to find out is to measure it like how it was said in the other topic thread.

Yeah just do it! I've tried everything in my searching abilities and come to no avail. I've even gone through lists of different manufacturers. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a 298 degree cam. The LM stamp has me stumped as I have not come across any manufacturers with this stamp.

Old fella on this forum has an identical camshaft. Link to topic http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=30929

cheers

You might as well go turbo from the start then and just run that low psi so that you don't damage the top end with all the high rpm shifts you'll need to do with an NA setup. If you are going to be going on a track that rarely sees speeds under 100kmph the 1600 is going to struggle a bit. I have a 1600 with 87ish kw at the wheels so thats about 140hp at the wheels/ 150,155 at the fly and it does take some persuasion to get to 180kmph. For those types of speeds you would want at least 200hp at the fly so getting it force fed would be a safer option in terms of engine health and durability. With the brakes I have 255mm x 23mm vented discs, EBC Greenstuff pads and Super Dot4 fluid with great results. I have no brake fade with constant 140-160kmph down to 60kmph stops. My car wieghs approx 950kg probably a little bit heavier because it has all it's interior.

The car was sitting for a good month and one of the tyres went flat so I replaced it with the spare tyre. The discs look alright. I am leaning more towards the tie rod ends and bearing failures because it only does it at higher speeds. If it was a tyre issue it would be a constant wobble which it is not. Alsthough they may be unbalanced tyres because unbalanced tyres do not necessarily wobble at slow speeds. Could even be a combination of both I guess, one fault bringing on another. Cheers for the advise guys. Thanks Dave I'll do the tests and see what I can find otherwise I might just take it into a tyre shop.

I got my Mig welder (30 amp to 150 amp) for free!!!!!! My dads work was doing a workshop tools upgrade and they were literally throwing away these tools. My dad managed to save an arc and mig welder (with gas) and as an added bonus we scored a welding bench with gas pipe accessories for oxy welding. This thing takes four people to move. All of it is at my house now as dad didn't need it anymore woot!!

Hi guys, Very quickly, how do the rear upright part of the seats come out? I can see the bolts for the bottom portion but I have not yet made out how to take out the back rests. It's just I have spotted some good seats at the U-pull it wrecker in Elizabeth and I won't have mutch time to get them out when I finish work and make my way there. Also were all KE30 - KE55 seats interchangeable? They look identical and are from another 4 door so I suspect they are the same. Cheers Alex

So i have finally Got the old rolla back together again and it runs like a dream. But not it has developed a steering shudder at speeds higher and around 60kmph. The shuddering dissapears when you turn or apply the brakes. Could the steering mechanism be loose and allowing the wheels to wobble whilst driving is straight lines?? It would explain why the shudder dissapears on turns and braking. The shuddering makes no noise, the feel of the shuddering is like you have not bolted on the wheels properly and they are going spastic. Just wanted to know if anyone has ever had this problem and if you have what have you done to fix it? Cheers Alex

Lol a 2tgte won't be a slow car at all. I run a 20 valve silvertop and that is reasonably quick. The 2tgte could get you into alot of trouble if you are a beginner. I second on not needing massive discs, just get new discs and race pads. Decent pads make a world of difference. Also just as a note, if you do get huge brakes on a small car expect to lock up the brakes very easily. Lets just say your car wieghs 1 tonne, 260mm x 25mm vented discs will provide you with plenty of stopping power for speeds of around 190kmph to 50kmph hairpin braking. Its all in the pads and brake fluid. I guess the question is are you just going to go turbo straight up? If so then do get slightly larger discs like 280mm discs. Also when selecting pads and discs ask whether the pads require a disc with slots otherwise just get a flat faced disc.

I fixed the problem, It was the thread leaking. Went to a wrekers and pulled a sensor off another car, looked new too! no scuff marks, no oil, no discolouration. The car is now oil leak free!!!

Lol I just snapped off a rocker tower bolt whilst re-tensioning.............. Oh joy........... Off to the wreckers.... Also, is it common for the oil pressure sensor to leak oil?

Finally!!!! It has been a while but the problem has been sorted. I ripped apart the carby and let it soak in petrol for a about 3 weeks..... I then bought a carbie rebuild kit and proceeded to rebuild said carby. But looking over the parts nothing in the carbie was worn.... at all.... all the passages were clear, no scuff marks on the jet or needle valves.... So I thought f@$k this its going to a mechanic. First place that came to mind was Fours n More as they have worked on a previous car of mine. I must recommend them to anyone as he found the problem in less than an hour. There was a dowel missing on the head that supported the manifolds, I didn't think mutch of it at the time because everything else was there and it all sat true. But when you torque it all up the manifolds go slightly askew thus missalighning the manifolds and causing a slight leak. That leak was enough to totaly funk up the runnign of the engine. The carby has been readjusted and the thing runs smoooooth aaaasssss. The head work definately helped. I'm absolutely stoked. ++++ rep to Brenton and all the blokes at Fours n More especially for dealing with a boat anchor of a car. I think it was probably the cheapest car he has ever delt with there considering the type of customers cars that are there.

lol the E7 series dashes are not the best looking dashes in the world. IMO the older dashes look porn. Just a bit of light modification to the original dash would set it off.

Try to find out where the leak is coming from first. I wouldn't be starting the car with no oil....

Cheers I'll check it out

Can someone locate for me the idle cutoff solenoid? How do I set the timing with the engine off?? Would I set No.1 cyl to 8deg BTC and then rotate dizzy untill I hear the spark?? Cheers guys

Does not matter where the srew is in its range still can't have a low idle. I think I'm going to rip apart the carby

So I have recently put the head back on, reset valve clearance, point gap, plugs, wires, rotor, etc etc etc. The compression in the cylinders is about 175 psi in each cylinder The one thing I can not do is check the ignition timing properly because the thing does not want to idle below 1500 rpm. At about that rpm the timing is about 15 degrees BTC and it gets to the factory 8 BTC while on the path to stalling so I am assuming i am in the ball park of decent ignition to get me going. I can drive the thing around but I have only taken it around the block because it is a dog to drive. I can not have the engine running without the choke fully or near fully engaged. Could this problem be carby related? It's not running extremely rich as there is not a trace of black smoke out the tail pipe but it does smell like there is a little bit of unburnt fuel. I have endlessly stuffed around with the idle mixture screw going in 1/4 turn incriments to no avail. Would I be looking at a carby rebuild and try rejetting it? Cheers guys