Twinky

Well got some work done this weekend. Measuring, cutting angles and welding up the pipe. A little trick I use to connect the joins a bit easier is to cut short fins in the pipe and then hammer them so that the overall diamiter of the pipe goes down a few mm, creating a bit of a lip that allows you to weld a bit easier. It takes a little while of measuring, cutting, checking, re measuring, tacking, checking and then finally welding it to get it right. My welding is not the best but there are no holes, any little pinholes that might be there will be covered with goop just to make sure. Old middle muffler vs middle muffler from a falcon Maybe a little close to the diff but should be fine Still the middle muffler to cut and weld, then the secondaries to measure cut and weld. Anyone in SA have aftermarket extractors??

Wow that is cheap for Mitutoyo, especially when I get stuff below cost from them....

Will be using mig to weld up everything.

Have a welder? Want a bigger exhaust? In fact you don't even need a welder (although it will end up cheaper if you do :dance:. Go down to your local wreckers such as the wonderfull U-Gank it here in adelaide and go down to the falcodore section of the yard. There you will find two sizes of exhaust, 2.25" and 2". I opted for the 2" because it should suite a 4k just fine. The 2" systems generally come from the early model cars and the 2.25" come from the newer models. The other reason I chose the 2" was because they come with longer stright sections and the hump for clearing the axle is a bit longer. They also had less resonators/mufflers taking up precious exhaust length. So after about 30 mins of walking I came accross these already pulled. So how mutch did I pay?? $24 for the lot.... awesome.... A bit of hacksawing saw the mufflers off (do this before purchasing, otherwise you will get slugged for the mufflers) and hey presto you have plenty of bends and straights to make up an exhaust. Over the weekend I'll be putting this together and taking pictures along the whole way for all to see.

I did actually use the calipers to measure the lift and I got near the same result. My guage wasn't 90 to the cam which let it slip a bit. We have all the machinery at work to do it so I could just ask to use them but meh, i couldn't justify using a mill for an hour for a home job. Not my dial guage, was bought over 10 years ago by the government. Some Swiss manufacturer, it is quite sensitive and can accurately display .0005" incriments with a full scale of .45" and an secondary .05 incriment guage. So it's not too shabby. I did look at buying my own guage but the good ones won't see a price tag of under $100.

You are too nice :dance:. Yeah I directed him to the faq section incase he would spot another answer to another question that he may possibly put up in advance, so that he would not have to post another question. I have found that you find out more when you have to do the searching yourself.

Yeah the pics were only for presentation, the measurements will be made on a measuring table that we have at work. The table has a magnet switch on it to energetically clamp what you are measureing to the table (meter square metal table). Those bases do not wobble in the slightest because of the whieght distribution. This jig was only designed to make comparisons between a stock camshaft and an unknown camshaft. If I wanted to know the specs of a cam I would send it away. If I wanted to do it accurately I would have machined a one piece design with the camshaft sitting in a bearing carrier. But I really can't be bothered. Basically with the current jig I use a spirit level to level off the camshaft (not a bubble but a digital scale). The uni joint on the spindle allows the protractor to sit at an incline if needed but i have a stand for it at work. I took it home because I can't take photos at my work being a government department. But yeah I know this thing is not %100 accurate but it gives me a base to start with and to compare with. After all, if you don't change the setup you can directly compare to another even with mistakes made, for instance I measured the lift on the stock camshaft and even if that value was wrong I can say that if the unknown camshaft measured at .050" more lift then I know that the unknown camshaft has xxx more lift than the standard. I like to work on first principals which is partly why I made it this way, as simple as possible.

Prepare to be chewed up and spat out. Visit the knowledge Base/FAQ section :dance:

Hmmm then it makes the total lift at .336" on the exhaust which is nearly what it should be for intake :dance: Yeah I still fire that up every now and then. My protractor is an old radio tuner face with a scale stuck on it's face. The connection to the cam was originally connected to a giant variable capacitor. It's cool because it has two gears, enabeling me to go at 1/4 turn speed and normal speed. It's something like 20 turns for 180 degrees on normal drive and 80 turns with 1/4 drive. The stands were the most difficult part of it because it took a little bit of work to get them right. They are just a solid bar cut down to the width of the camshaft wheel, hole drilled down the middle and then threaded to bolt onto the stands. A bit of angle held up by some 2mm ally sheet, drilled and tapped with brackets on the ends to hold the camshaft still while rotating. The dial guage I had to borrow from work, worth over $1000!!!! Don't drop that thing! There is a guy selling an unknown camshaft here in adelaide but he lives in loberthal, I work up north so it's hard to get to him without taking up a good portion of the afternoon. When I have a free arvo I'll go get it and do some testing. Anyone in Adelaide want thier camshaft measured???

After seeing many unknown camshaft profiles for sale lately I have been pondering on how to actually measure the camshaft. So I decided to try to make up a contraption and see how I go. After finding bits and pieces around the workshop I slaped them together to make this: So I gave it a quick measure and came up with these interesting specs: Exhaust Spec Camshaft duration at .005" lift =220 degrees Total Lobe lift = .224" That duration just did not look right what so ever so I checked and double checked. Went on the net to see if I could find anything out and I came accross an article that stated that alot of companies over exagerate thier camshaft specs, stating the duration from when the camshaft begins to open. Seems to be the case here. One question, does anyone know what the rocker ratio is on the 4k?? I'll do some more thorough testing shortly an post the results

If you can find a twincam model from the wreckers then you can pretty mutch swap over the entire setup. If you do not drive fast then don't bother, just spray the drums black and it will look ok.

Now you are making more sense. If I were you I would check the drums and the handbrake mechanism. I have a disc rear end so it is a little different to yours, I can't really answer your question properly. There is not a hell of alot of work to take it off so if you have a free afternoon you should be able to take it all apart and see what it is doing. If it is a cable setup for the handbrake check to see that it is not loose and tighten up the bolts.

Firstly go back to school and re-learn spelling & grammar. Now, from your question it sounds like you are saying when you apply the hand brake the rear wheels lock up. This is doing exactly what it is ment to do, the hand brake stops your car from rolling away when you park it. If you do not like this factory option simply slide under the car with a pair of bolt cutters and snip the handbrake cable. Hey presto no rear locking!!! You can now safely let you car roll down the hill into a stobie pole. Woot!

Should have asked them then and there "what is the legal height".

Give AJPS a visit. http://www.ajps.com.au/parts/ajps_coilovers.asp Go through thier parts list. http://www.ajps.com.au/parts_ajps.asp I've had mixed responses to thier quality and performance, definately more positive than negative. I think the negatives were just people who didn't fit the gear correctly. One thing you must not do, DO NOT BUY ON IMPULSE!! this is how you will screw yourself over. Talk with the guys at AJPS and get them to recommend a setup for you. You won't just be able to slot in some different LCA's and chuck in some coilovers and expect it to handle well. Everything has to be done together. The first step I'd say is to get rid of those chopped falcodore springs and get some short stroke springs. Whatever you do DO NOT get those piece of shit progressive springs, get a continuous coil spring and remember it needs to be a bit firmer because of the drop in spring travel due to hieght drop. One of the most noticable differences, get all of your bushes replaced with some stiffer rubber. Remember how old your car is and that those bushes are most likely still the ones that came out with that car. Want more grip? Don't cheap out on tyres, all of the money you spend on suspension components you might as well piss them out to the wind. Your suspension can only work with what grip your tyres give you. For a legal road tyre I have fallen in love with Toyo T1R's and for track use can't go past R888 semi slicks. Mind you this is for a 195/50/15, depending on your tyre size you might find some better gear. Getting grip always has this misconception that "I'll just chuck in some stiff springs, get some camber and I shall become king of the hill". Initially you will feel as though you have some better handling aspects but infact be quite dangerous. Tell us how you want to drive your car and what types of roads you would like to blast through, different roads require different setups.

Wait hold on a minute. You wouldn't be talking about a diff would you? cause thats a different story altogether. Post a picture of what you mean.

Dude I changed my muffler in the space of an hour. Learn how to weld, cut off the original mount on your muffler and weld it onto your new muffler. Easy. Apart from that a muffler or exhaust shop should do that easily.

By back box do you mean a muffler???

Are you using a map sensor or the AFM??

After having a look at those lobes I would not be surprised if it was indeed a race cam. Compare the lobes with this pic, it is a stock cam next to another lumpy cam. Your cam has a shiteload more shaved off = more duration.

T W Engineering Address: 6/122 Tolley Rd, St Agnes SA 5097 Australia Phone: 08 82636311 Mobile: 0411 426544 It's pretty mutch near Tea Tree Plaza

A mechanic won't be able to do this. You need to send this off to a machine shop. Someone on these forums might be able to tell you your nearest machine shop. What area of the hills are you in? I know a really good shop but it is at Modbury. But if you want it done cheap at any machine shop you have to take the head off yourself. It is not a difficult thing. Take the rocker cover off, take the rockers off (just undo the bolts on the rocker towers, no need to fully take it apart). Then take the push rods out (bag them up and number them, remembering which rod came from which hole. Then take the head bolts off and there you go! Easy! Just remember when undoing bolts, only unscrew about 1 turn at a time on each bolt. In other words, one turn from this bolt, one turn from that bolt and slowly ease the head off. Again a workshop manual is the best tool you can have as it shows you the steps.

Sighs. Firstly have a read through this http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...a_tough_K_motor Now.... Extractors are not just a simple thing. maybe back in the day it was when th 4k was more popular and there were options in what you could do to the motor. These days you would be hard pressed in finding performance 4k parts. Yes you do occasionally find extractors being sold for the odd $100 - $150 mark. But there is no point in getting them because they won't have mutch of a HP difference on thier own. It's the same thing as people slapping on webber carbies and thinking thier car goes faster when it is just the placebo effect. What you should start with is freshening up the head. Rip the head off and clean all of the carbon off and grind out pitting and cast dags. Do not grind away too mutch material if you are cleaning up the combustion chambers!! Get the valves and valve seats reground. It only cost me about $100 and they refaced the head for pretty mutch nothing. Slap that head back on and re-adjust the valve/rocker clearances. Now get yourself an electronic distributor, you can get these from KE Motorsport on these forums or from people who are selling them in the FS section. Then take it to a mechanic and get the carbie re-tuned. the mechanic does not need to be a specialist as they can get it to a very acceptable tolerance if they are a half decent mechanic. It only cost me $50 to get that done. Before sending your car off to the mechanics strip the carby and let it soak in fuel for a few days to get all the crap off it, blow it out with compressed air. That will sort out any issue that blockages are causing. Your engine should now run twice as good as before. Don't think you can do this? Then don't bother with mods on the 4K as these are the most basic things you can do. Don't feel like it is all to big for you, I have never opened an engine up before I did this myself and I managed it first time. Just use a bit of common sense and everything will fall into place. To answer the question about the exhaust: Yes they should bolt straight up, but.... You must make a support braket for the intake manifold as the original extractors bolt up the the intake manifold. Some aftermarket pieces had this done to them already some did not. You might possibly see a gain in performance but I doubt it. the only reason you would need extractors is that they are restricting flow because of "other" performance modifications. If your engine is currently running like crap they might even worsen performance. Get the engine working properly first before attempting anything!!!! Seriously my engine works like a dream now and can actually go up hills in 3rd/4th gear.

You'd be surprised at the tensile strength of steel. A 3mm stanless steel M3 screw can stand 100g of tension. And exhause bolt could be more than capable of holding the engine up as I have used them any times when hooks are unavailable. Although the hooks make life sooooo mutch easier.

Do it! It's soo bloody easy!!! Ok to do this you must learn something first. It's called TDC. There is no point in trying to adjust the tappet clearance without being able to set the engine at TDC. TDC stands for Top Dead Centre, this is where the piston has reached it's highest point in it's stroke. It is really quite simple to understand. To visually see if you are TDC there are some lines on the bottom left hand pulley, usually marked 0, 10 and 15. That 0 is TDC. On the pulley there will be a white dot marked on it and when that lines up with 0 it is at TDC. To get a visual understanding of the engine cycle go to http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm and go through all the pages. Now that you have an understanding you can now attempt the tappet clearances!! What to do: Take off the rocker cover, there should be two bolts on either side of the cover. Lift off the cover and place on a clean towel or rag, if the accelarator cable or choke cable is in the way take them of the carbie. Note how they are attached at the time you take them off. You will see a total of 8 rockers over the valve springs, if you are missing some you have some serious issues. Now you won't be able to adjust the clearances while the rockers are compressing the springs so you have to rotate the crankshaft, to do this I just spin the fan with my hands and it rotates the crank. Do this a couple of cycles so that you can see what it is doing in relation to the valves. Now you can get started. Set cylinder 1 to TDC (the first two rockers closest to you should be loose now and you should be able to slightly jiggle them). Now you must have a feeler guage to do this so go buy one, they are cheap as. To set the clearance you have to get the nut loose that sits on the back of the rocker arm. Slide the feeler guage under the rocker arm inbetween it and the spring. With your hand push up on the back of the rocker arm so that it tightly holds onto the feeler guage. now screw down with your other hand the slotted screw that sits in the nut untill your fingers can not tighten it any more (use little force when doing this you do not want to start compressing the spring). Now do this bit VERY carefully otherwise you will have to start again, WITHOUT moving the slotted nut tighten the bolt back up and do it up TIGHT. You should now only just be able to slide the feeler guage inbetween the rocker arm and valve spring. If you can not fit the feeler guage inbetween you have done it too tight, if the guage slides in too easily you have done it too loose. You should only just be able to slide it in with some force. Now there is a procedure to follow here: Do Valves 1,2,3 and 5 first Now rotate the engine 360 degrees and do valves 4,6,7 and 8 THIS BIT IS IMPORTANT!!!! INTAKE VALVE = .13mm feeler guage EXHAUST VALVE = .23mm feeler guage I don't know why the exhaust valves need more clearance thats just what it says to do them in the workshop manual. You will now have a quietly running engine and all that tap tap tap tap tap tap noise should dissapear. I could show you how to do it but I am north of the city so it would be a bit of a drive. Hope it helps, might actually do a pictorial.........