Twinky

I am tempted to but I need to figure this out in case it's a problem with the head and not the manifold/carby.

Well it wasn't the dam points that are the issue. One of two things methinks. 1. Intake manifold leak 2. Carby not correctly functioning Both of which are pains in the arse to sort out.

Had to buy the damn ticket first! aw well, I'll win it next time I guess.....

I do have a blanking plate but that is not the issue. What you can't see is that where the blanking plate bolts on there is a big section of metal missing. That is why there is soo much silicon.

Found out a good possibility as to why my idle doesn't like going below 1200rpm. The points contacts look like a volcano and a crater. Time to put on the electronic ignition.

Thanks for that altezzaclub, my net has been extreemely sluggish today (worse than dialup) let along looking at or uploading any pictures. I do usually google before I post but this time is a special occasion. According to that picture it is simply a bolt.... But why then does it have a hole going through the middle of the bolt? That's what the picture still can't explain. I've looked at the 4k Carby and it has the same thing but no description or reference in the book. Either way I suppose I'll swap the plates around so that the mounting plate with the hole shall be on the top and I'll see what happens from there. Cheers for your time!

I've looked through the Nikki carb guide and it does not mention anything about a certain part of the carby. On the underside of the carb, in between and off centre of the two throats there is a bolt with a hole going through the centre of it. It sort of looks like an port or source of vacuum for the carby. This bolt/hole looks the same as the one on the stock Aisan carb. The question is, what purpose does this have for the carby? The 4k carby mounting plate actually has a hole cut out for this port on the carby. Why this is of relevance to me is that to mount this carby you need to double stack the mounting plates. I am using a different mounting plate that has this port blocked off. The reason I am using this specific plate is that it is slightly thinner than a standard 4k carby mounting plate thus retaining the original mounting studs. If this port is significant on the nikki carby then I will have to use the 4k carby plate and get longer studs. The reason for all of this is that I'm having a bit of trouble with setting the idle below 1600 rpm. Apart from the idle the carb works superbly. Cheers

Sorry my bad, I made a mistake too. Ok here are the specs on stock brakes from smallest to largest in the corolla series, each of which is a direct bolt on and interchangeable. AE 90, 92, 93 D.O.H.C Year models 8/89 - 6/91 Diameter = 238mm Width = 18mm AE 82 D.O.H.C All Diameter = 243mm Width = 18mm AE 93 D.O.H.C Year models 6/91 -10/94 (series 2) Diameter = 258 Width = 22mm So if you have the older version of the AE93 you have the smallest discs out of the FWD corolla series. If you have the series 2 SX then you have the largest brakes easily obtainable. I ran the AE93 SX series 2 brakes on my Twin cam AE82. All I did was buy the new rotors (258mm x 22mm) and bought some new pads. The AE82 calliper could accommodate the larger rotors but the thicker rotors meant that I had to file back the face of the pads a bit, that was easy. I just hot a flat rough surface and did figure 8's on them. Of course you should make sure that the surface is clean of debris so that you do not gouge the pads. Or even better use a linisher. If you have the older AE93 then I would not be able to say if you could fit the larger discs easily, I would recommend finding the correct callipers or at least the AE82 DOHC callipers. Couple that with either EBC greenstuff (more expensive, track and road) or EBC redstuff (cheaper, sports road use) pads and you will not have a problem stopping. I used this set up on the race track and I did not experience any brake fade what so ever. I actually had problems with the brakes locking up. But was probably just me not used to the new feel.

See if you can find a set of AE92SX series 2 brakes, use a decent quality pad too. I used EBC greenstuff pads in my old AE82 and braking was great. I think that you can even just buy the rotors and use the standard pistons. You'd have to file a bit off from the face of the brake pad as the discs are thicker than what the standard pistons can take.

Update! Update! Update! Got some dodgey arse 4K from a KE70 and installed it over the weekend. Had a few issues with it like an exhaust leak, the carby catching fire, rough as guts idle, spark gap way out, mechanical fuel pump taking a chunk out of the block and to top it all off the fuel mixture in the stock carby was waaaay off. After a few days of sussing, swearing, gluing, more swearing and bleeding I got it to a state fit to drive to work. The only problem that remained was the carby fuel mixture was causing the car to respond very poorly to the throttle and I was finding it that hard to drive becuase taking off needed to have the clutch half engaged to stop the motor from stalling. So about 4 hours ago I went down to the wreckers and got myself a Nikki carb. No more than 30 mins after arriving from home the Nikki carby was on and she fired up first spin and idled fairly well. It idles at around 1200rpm, any lower and it starts to slow down and stall. Something I'll have to play around with later. Took it for a test drive and I must say it is definitely an improvement even over a perfectly functioning Aisin carb. Piccies! Awesomeness Still need to find it some sort of sports filter to fit over it. I love how you can actually see the fuel level and the float. Sits on the target line too! Had to dodgey up the spring return mechanism because the standard one fouls on inlet runner #4. Works fine. Also had to drill out the throttle cable hole by about 2mm to get the K series throttle pin to fit. Dodgey arse patch up of the hole in the Block where the fuel pump took a massive chunk out of the block. Rats nest of wiring (will clean it up on the weekend) and the trusty old facet pump. My dodgey AFR meter and boost/vacc guage. Currently making a blanking plate to fit the sensors in that area of the dash along with an oil pressure sensor. My extreemely dodgey throttle stop!!! Will have to find a shorter cable of some sort or a better way of doing it. Currently it's just a washer with a small slot in it to fit the cable through and clamped either end with a nut and bolt combo! Works great but is still dodgey.

I think my luck is turning for the better. After failing to pinpoint the carny issue I thought I'd take a trip down to u-pull it and see what was around. There was one ke70 that still had it's carby in one piece but it was covered in oil and there was little of the metal showing. At that point I remembered something posted in the FAQ section. The Nikki carb! So off I went trawling the yard looking for an old school Gemini. The first one I found had the exact carburetor that I needed but the car had been parked into a wall and it was nearly impossible to reach the bolts. The carny was pretty clean too, no oil, no dirt, no dust almost like new actually. So I went in search of an easier target. 15 mins of looking and I found only one other Nikki carb and it was in pieces. Damn. Well I bit the bullet and had a go at the crashed Gemini . Two bolts were piss easy but the two on the ceased side I could not possibly get the spanner to turn in the amount of space I had. By chance I knocked the spanner on the corner of the nut and it turned! YAY! I got a flat head screwdriver out and at 1/8th of a turn at a time I got the last two bolts off because they weren't put on tight!. I got home and 30 mins later I fired it up and vroom it burst into life! The Nikki carb is definitely way better than the crappy aisin carb. It pulls very strong, even to the point of being quicker than my stock 5k was. I'll take a pic later to show you guys how dodgey I am :) Ps ʞ©$ɟ auto correct on this I-crapp. Definitely going galaxy next time.

I'll see what Increasing the exhaust clearance will do, if it's noisy I'll go back to what I set it. Now the motor has two lingering problems that may or may not be bad. Problem No1: The car seems to overheat. The engine has the stock fan bolted to the water pump but the fan shroud has been removed. If I am running the engine with just the engine fan it goes almost to the top of the engine temp display but not too close to the red zone. I'f I put on my thermo fan which is bolted to the front of the radiator the engine temp goes down to 3/4 so it's still quite hot. One thing to note is that the water temperature sensor is from a KE70 but using the KE55 meter. Was the KE70 sensor different to the KE55 sensor?? Problem No.2 The carby is running too lean on takeoff and too rich on cruise and mid - full throttle. On takeoff my EGO reads a spike of about 16:1 which could just be that the response time of fuel getting down the throat is quite bad and then it goes as rich as 9:1. The carby is a KE70 carby with lots of bits missing. Being in a KE55 most of the ports in the carby have been blocked off because I have no freaking idea what to do with them apart from that. So basically the car is gutless until it hits 3,000rpm. Even then I rarely take it above 3,500rpm.

Set the clearances all to .1mm and there is only a faint clatter that you can only hear with your head in the engine bay. Woot!

I'll set it to half the clearance and see how it goes then.

Turns out the points gap was half of what it was supposed to be. Ran a lot more smoother after setting them to 0.4mm. Set all the rocker clearances but I'm still getting a clattering noise just not as loud. Should I set the gap tighter? I set both inlet and exhaust to .20mm because if I set the exhaust to .30mm like it says to do so in the book it makes the clattering noise louder. Cheers!

So far the motor does well at giving me the shites. I may have some more time tonight to do a bit more testing and find out what's wrong and what is right.

I've had a crack in the inlet before but it still ran well, it was just a pain to start up and idle properly. Mine idles fine and starts up first turn just sounds a bit lumpy and has no guts.

I am one step away from walking away from the corolla. To no end this car has given me grief. Some of the problems have been my own doing or things I have overlooked, other times it's plain BS! I decided to go back to standard configuration after the other 4k seized up only to be met by more motoring madness. The engine I got was from a running KE70 and still had all the bits and bobs bolted on including the manifolds. I did not want to take the manifolds off because I would have been making more work for myself, at least thats what I thought. Because the KE70 exhaust is slightly different I had to cut and weld a section to bolt to the rear half of the KE55 exhaust. I fitted the engine, bolted everything on, wired it all up, fed all the fuel and air lines. All good!!! Time to crank over!! Wobble wobble went the fuel pump. So I unbolted the fuel pump to see what the hell was going on and a chunk of the engine block came along with it, FCUK! Ok no biggie, I have a facet pump that I'll just bolt up and she'll be right. I connect up the pump and have it go through the KE70 mechanical pump because it has a return line on it that acts like a pressure regulator. All good!!! Time to crank over!! BANG!!! the ʞ©$ɟing carby is alight!!! First time in my life I have seen a carby catch alight after a backfire. Anyway, I get a new carby and set it up again. Fires up first turn YAY!!! Oh wait, sounds like a rotary with an exhaust leak ʞ©$ɟ MY LIFE!! I take off the manifold and see that the inlet exhaust gasket isn't sealing properly because the KE70 exhaust manifold have rusted away. To top it off the gasket in between the intel and exhaust ie the inlet heater is fubar. Ok, ʞ©$ɟ it back to my extractors. So I re weld the exhaust again and bolt on the extractors and inlet. Turn the key and YAY it starts first turn again and does not have that distinct exhaust leak sound, but wait it still sounds a bit like a rotray or some sort of aggressive cam. I first thought, maybe someone worked the motor but to my dismay it went pretty slow. I checked the compression on each cylinder and all came up around the 155 psi mark, timing was fine. Iv'e noticed that the rockers are sounding a bit clattery so I'll be setting the gap again later tonight but I am sceptical about it fixing the issue. What else could be causing this thing to run so crap? Could it be the carby? Now when I say it runs like crap it not soo much runs like crap but more so sounds like crap. It has a smooth yet slow power delivery. I don't know maybe it's just me and I can't remember just how slow a 4k is but it seems too slow.

My corolla keeps hurting my wallet and mental health but I still keep on going back to her. How can I end this abusive relationship?

Unfortunately the real answer has already been said, buy a wrecked twincam or 4age engine package if a bit of power is what you want. Just a list of what you would need to do and you might just go a little bit quicker than a stock 4age. Carby upgrade - adaptor plate, tuning by carby speciallist Exhaust - Extractors to muffler Head work - Mild camshaft with slightly higher lift and a moderate increase in duration, Bigger valves if you want, Porting, Shaved head. Price guide: Carby upgrade: Carb + adaptor plate ~$250 for a basic Webber 32/36 Jetting and tune ~$500 Totals: ~$750 Exhaust: Extractors ~$250 - $350 depending on where and what you get System Extractors back + new muffler ~$600 - $700 Totals ~ $850 - $1050 Head work: Porting ~$300 - $500 can greatly vary depending on who you know Mild camshaft ~ $200 - $250 (price to do a 4k is about ~$200 plus machining lifters) Must supply own camshaft Shaved head or block (not sure which is better to do on a 4A) ~$200 - $250 (based on what it cost me on a 4k) Bigger Valves (optional and not sure if can do readily on a 4Ac) ~$500 - 600 Totals ~$700 - $1000 Grand total: = ~$2300 - $2800 - not including bigger valves It's a bit of a guesstimate but those prices would be farely close to your total cost. The prices apart from the carby and exhaust would require you to do strip down and assembly. If you need a workshop to do all the work double the price. What I have not included is a full balance and lightened flywheel which would bring the price up another ~$1000 Suddenly a wrecked 4age sounds appealing eh?

If you like the car then what does it matter what people think, really. All old cars are going to have a bit of rust in them and the sooner you fix it up the better. You can fix the car up, get the engine to a reliable condition and you will have yourself a cheap runabout and then buy yourself a toy to "do up". Trust me on that part as I have been badly screwed by having my daily as my toy.

Yeah, I was quite dissapointed. But that was overshadowed by the backfirie induced carby inferno that was on display. I was quite happily watching the thing burn when I decided that I didn't want the house to burn down as well. So now the carb is ʞ©$ɟed right up the sphincter.

WGMG - When you take the fuel pump off and a chunk of engine block decides that it want's to come along as well.

If you don't impulse buy and take your time to research it's not too hard.

Buying a GZE with loom and ecu will be always be the best option. Engine is built for purpose and no tuning is required. GZE price ~$2000 N/A to SC GZE = $200 - $350 Induction piping + pulleys ~$100 GZE ECU ~$100 GZE loom ~$??? GZE sensors ~$??? Reliability = 0 So on the cheap yes you can do it but with factory tuning on a non standard high comp setup will blow your motor up pretty quick. Done properly: As above with the charger and plumbing/pulleys ~$450 After marker ECU = $2500 with flying lead kit, maybe a bit more with sensors included. Wiring the loom, cost for someone else to do it could be upwards of $500 Tune is about $1000 for something average. Or pay a total of $5000 for a walk in with all your bits and walk out with a fully functioning and safely tuned engine that still will blow eventually because of excessively high cylinder temps. Seriously buy a GZE. I've had these thoughts before when I wanted to build a 20 Valve turbo an realised at the end of the day I would have spent 3x as much as just buying an engine that was already a turbo I'm not saying that this can't be done though. If you have good knowledge and if you can do %90 of the work yourself you can save on all but the tune and parts. Good luck!