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Front Suspension/Brake setup Corona struts with KYB strut inserts............1983–1984 Toyota Corona (ST141)(must be used with Otomoto camber top kit) Crown MS65 hubs (5 stud ~ Ford pattern..........1972 ms65 series I and II Adjustable coilover suspension..................Otomoto sleeve kit Honda NSX 298mm disc............................1990–2005 front disc rotor Custom made caliper adapter.....................Made by me :y: Holden VE twin piston calipers..................2006–2010 Holden VE twin piston calipers Holden VN V8 1 inch brake master cylinder.......1988–1991 Holden VN V8 1 inch brake master cylinder Rear setup 3 inch / 75mm tailshaft.........................Made by me :y: Hilux diff (5 stud).............................Had it made Ford Falcon 299mm EL discs......................1996–1998 rear disc rotor Custom made caliper adapter.....................Bought from a mate Nissan R31 Skyline calipers.....................1985–1989 Nissan R31 Skyline Custom made handbrake cables....................Had it made Hope this helps you out. Have a read over the thread and send me a PM if you need to know more.

Well two years ago you could still buy them, (I think Toyota wanted around the $30 mark each). If I was you and you do want to put the oil squirts in your 7A Block I would firstly ask your machinist if they can so it and secondly I would put a “Wanted to Buy” advert on this web site asking if anyone has any 4AGE oil squirters to sell. Do you have any pictures of your motor as everyone loves a picture. If I can help you out in any way, just ask. All the best with your build.

Well done with the engineer, (its not that bad) With a coil over you should be fine because the diameter of the spring is smaller then the Toyota spring so it will give you more clearance from your wheels. As for the Air box that will be an easy one for you to fix.

Yeah I did fit oil squirters to the 7A block, to help with cooling and lubrication. (you can get them out of a late model 4AGE block which I did {I have a few blocks} or you can order them from Toyota) Have a look at post 11 where I fitted the squirters. Fitting Oil Squirters I'm not after a dyno Queen, but what I do want is a quick reliable car for the ¼ mile strip and to be able to drive it on a cruise with out having to worry about a thing.

No new news, As of two days ago, it’s been 6 months since I put a deposit on the “BorgWarner Turbo” (I’m seriously thinking about going for a Garrett Turbo). I will make phone calls on Monday if I get the time and let you know the outcome.

Did you ask your Engine builder to machine your block so you can fit some piston oil squirters out of the later 4AGE blocks, it will help keep it cool, and well lubricated.

Hope it all when well today.

Hi there, There is a 7AGTE combo in New Zealand that is making 330KW at the wheels on the factory 7A crank, so the standard crank should be fine.

One of the main reasons I'm going for a Vipec is Ray Hall (from Ray Hall Turbochargers) up here in Cairns is also building a 7AGTE 20V and he is the Vipec dealer. He is will be using a Vipec on his motor and will be tuning mine. Yeah I have seen some of Jason’s work from Twincam Thanks

Yeah, be careful with the tolerance if using the ARP head studs. You will have to watch where the oil flows up to the head. (The ARP stud can restrict the oil flow and starve the head of oil) Go to page 14 on my thread and have a read.

I have been collecting bits and pieces now for about 3 or 4 years and I'm hoping that I will be able to drive my little bomb in June, just waiting on a few key parts to arrive before I can do any more with it. If you want to have a look at what I have done so far have a look at the link My 7AGTE 20V If you want to know anything more just ask (PM would be the best way of getting a reply)

Great feed back on some of the different brands of ECU’s, I just wanted to hear what some of you are running and the Good / Bad and the Ugly of different ECU’s. The ECU that I am considering is ViPEC Model V44. Has anyone had any experience with these?

Shades … now that your living up the hill are you planning a BIG Family and need a bus for all of them kids to come in the future?

Hi all, I’m in the market for an aftermarket ECU (I have an idea (brand) what I want) and I have had a look at a few of the major brands out there on the internet and most of them read well but I want to hear from you. What are the Good / Bad and Interesting things from your experiences. (Please do not rubbish brands and go into a little depth as to why it is good or bad and what you would use) Mods please move this under the correct heading if I have placed it in the incorrect place or delete it if there is another thread which I have not come across…… thanks

It’s been a little while since I have dropped in and had a look at your thread and it is looking mighty fine. Hey with your high quality standards you will have nothing to worry about when the engineer is looking over the car. Wishing you all the best for the 20th.

Hi there, Everyone will have there own method of running in an engine these days. I have run in my last two 4age(‘s) and a 4agze by driving them hard ~ by that I do not mean revving the absolute crap out of them in the high rev range, load it up in a higher gear but also let it rev to maybe around 5000rpm but then no mercy after 2000kms. One thing that I do, is change the oils and filters frequently 1st I will run a mineral oil ~ (change the oil and filter after about 100 to 150kms) 2nd high quality non synthetic ~ (change the oil and filter after about 800kms) 3rd high quality non synthetic ~ (change the oil and filter after about 1 000kms) 4th high quality synthetic ~ (change the oil and filter after every 5 000kms) To me, oil and a filter is cheep compared to a rebuild. At the end of the day how you run it in is up to you I will be doing the exact same thing with my 7AGTE 20V All the best

Evan I just wanted to say that you are doing a TOP JOB in coordinating this event. Keep up the great work Champ :y:

I agree with Evan, take it to another roadworthy inspection / mechanic. Keep up the great work.

Before you do anything, what are you trying to do figure out? 1) what loom do you need to get this motor working or 2) what head do I have on the motor

I have already sussed out the tolerance with the ARP head studs on a 20V head and mine is fine after I got it back from Rams Head Service in Sydney. From what I have read/experienced is the 16V head(s) that you have to watch out for with the tolerance. Thanks for the heads up

Funny you should mention the “Borgy” as it has been over 4 months now since I put a deposit on it. I did drop into the turbo shop and there is still no word on an expected date so I do not think I will see it before Christmas so the car is on hold. I am so keen to get this little old bomb back on the road again, its has been driven since June

I agree with “Carbonboy” its too hard just looking at a picture to tell. Are you asking what sensors do I have so I can get the correct wiring harness to suit the motor you have; A) does it have an Air Flow Meter (a sensor just after the air cleaner) B) does it have an MAP sensor (a sensor that has a vacuum hose to the intake manifold) Or are you asking what head, the easiest way I could think of is to remove the inlet manifold and take a picture of the inlet port sizes. The below pictures are taken from Bill Sherwoods 4AGE page 4AGE Big Port Above 4AGE Small Port Above BTW,,,,, its not too hard to run spell check

They are a tuff little car and you have a tuff little motor in there as well …. Looking good, I like it

Hey there Nick, I would go with what “Abbott” has said as Toyota spends Millions on research and development and the FWD gearbox that comes with the 20V from the factory is the best option. If you were to start playing with the 20V and if you did kill a few gearbox’s I would then try to source an “E” series gearbox, these came out with the supercharged Corolla’s. The E51 came from the earlier supercharged motors and the E58 with the later models (if I remember correctly the E58 were mostly factory LSD). Google is your friend …… All the best

Looking good, all the hard work pays off when you get to drive it on the road and you have heads turning to check it out and you can tell them that you built it and did not buy it. It evens look like a nice day to go for a drive. (BTW did you ever find anything out about your coupe ?)