xy500

check out the toyota for sale section, runs awesome and registered

registered right? carb or efi? interested in swap + dollars for a ke36?

Doesn't HAVE to, but it helps get a good tacho signal

I can't seem to find these distributors or the seller on ebay any more, anyone know of another source?

yeah u wont need one on your dist. but you should still have another on your coil.

there is a few variants listed for the k motors, thats the problem. Without seeing the exact variant you use the parts dude will just give you the most common (cheapest) part in the hope its the right one. You really should note down the part numbers next time to save yourself the issue. Condensors are pretty much the same thing thing across 90% of points vehicles. Are you running the Denso distributor or something?

don't shoot the messenger

a named based on the misconception that brakes wont cool down enough without slots. don't worry about it though, its just a misconception.

only stupid question is the one you didnt ask (just don't tell some blokes around here) shouldn't cause any major issues, your axle seal should stop any oil leaking past to your wheel bearing, but if thats gone your brakes will see some oil, but not before you bearing gets flogged out :) In short, shouldnt be an issue, but do double check the condition of your axle seals while you have them out.

four to one with a merge collector is best for high rpms, just ask anyone with a v8. tri Y style are better for torque + driveability

a recurve wont help at idle though, where there is zero mechanical or vacuum advance. Static timing and idle mixtures should settle it down a bit. A recurve will definitely help with through the rev range tho. Some of you blokes could be a little clearer with your advice.

been yellowed for a frayed seatbelt and podfilter allegedly not strapped down... thye spent a while looking for more but thats all they came up with, it was an old falcon... and the copper didnt know what it was! i don't think he took it too well when i just pointed at the falcon badge he was standing by

so it was the dizzy 180 out? sounds like its running lean at idle, check for vacuum leaks - make sure all your vaccum hoses are connected first. Then start richening up your idle mixture.

depends on your state, but the law here (WA) is that vehicles can have wheels no wider than was a factory option + 1 inch i think, similar deal for track

I'm not far away, have you checked that your dizzy isnt 180 out? ie make sure number one is definitely on compression stroke tdc with dizzy pointing to no 1 cylinder?

pre au's vary wildly, pre xe is close to zero, xe to au can be anything inbetween.

you should be able to get some struts to work, you'll have to watch a few things though; make sure where you mount the struts is reinforced, weld in some plate if possible make sure you use strong enough struts, struts are rated in newtons, the higher the newtons the stronger force the strut applies over its action make sure you allow enough room between where you mount on the car and where you mount on the tailgate so that when shut the strut can collapse well, and that it reaches far enough to open the gate to a suitable height. With some careful measurement you can make it work

well you you probably haven't had a proper lsd yet, done right they are the perfect mix between driveability and tractability. The only ford turbo 6 setups (particularly e series) that use stock diffs are very low boost setups, because they are one of the weakest diffs around; they only have 28 spline axles, some only 25 FFS! To upgrade a bw diff usually involves new carrier/spool and axles. It will cost you a lot more money to have work done on a ford bw salisbury style diff than on a banjo style diff. You could go and buy yourself a good condition second hand hilux diff. have done to it what you will and you will still be ahead on funds than having a ford bw modified. Believe me i've done the math and they aren't worth it. also agree with other posters, there are a lot better sixes kickin around than an e series ohc 6.

don't even bother shortening a falcon diff, waste of money. They barely handle na sixes, let alone a turbo six. I'd use a hilux diff or similar shortened. Much stronger and better lsd too. You'll need to have a custom tailshaft made either way... and whats with the plans? first thing on the list is a polished intercooler? you may need to take your hand off it before you begin this build... :)

granted the rear mains on all old ford sixes leak, but cooling issues and cracked heads? very uncommon of 250's, 4.0l is another kettle of fish They can make good power (200+hp) NA quite easily.

thats fairly normal, most passenger vehicles with solid rear ends i've seen have the diff offset a little. I forget what it is but there is a reason behind it.

if it dies then i'd guess the regulator, thats one of the symptoms myne had. The other was that the fuel gauge wouldnt read full when it was full. Switch on the headlights and they'd go off completely

holy shoot...

sorry no pics, its all back together now. It's pretty simple though. Just pull you fascia & cluster out. On the back of the cluster secured by four screws is your voltage regulator for the temp and fuel gauges. Simply find your closest electronic component shop, and ask them for a low drop out 10V 1A regulator. most are the same, but make sure the one you get, the terminals go (from left to right) Input (12v), Ground, output(10v) you unscrew the old one, i separated it from the aluminium heatsink, and then flattened the heatsink so it fit the larger regulator. Attach the reg to the heatsink however you choose (small bolt, screw etc) then screw back into place, making sure the terminals go into their little locator spaces. re-assemble in reverse and ta-da!!! fixed gauges that work with the headlights on!

i had the same problem on a ke55, changed the voltage regulator for a 10v 1A low drop out regulator (about $2 worth) and it sorted it out, guages work properly now!