Setting 4k-c Points Gap

[Twinky]

Hi, just a quick question here. I'm getting no spark from the coil, i've replaced the ignitor, leads, plugs, rotor button, cap and points.

The one thing I am unsure of is how to set the points gap. I know it is ment to be arount 0.8mm but where are you getting that distance from and at what point of the rotation?

So is it that I need to rotate the engine and make sure that the point only ever gets 0.8mm closed? Or is there an easier way?

 

Cheers guys

 

Alex

[LukeAE71]

I have a very basic way of describing it but I'll give it a go.

 

On the middle bit of the dizzy that spins you will notice it is actually square and has a hump on each corner. You need to set the gap for the points at the hump as this is where the points are open for each spark for each cylinder.

 

Turn the motor by hand to get the top of the points to rest on the 'hump' and then gap them. Then rotate it by hand again and you should notice it is opening and closing at that point on all four corners.

 

They need to be .8mm open at this point.

 

You set the points by loosening the screw, putting the feeler gauge in between and then tightening the screw. If you don't have feeler gauge you can use a flat head screwdriver. As long as there is some sort of gap you will get spark. If there is no gap there will be not much chance of a spark.

 

Hope that helps, like I said I don't know the technical terms but I have gapped a few in my time.

 

Also if you haven't replaced the points it will probably help to. Are they pitted on the part where it makes contact? There are two different types of points for these cars depending on the distributor brand. It will be either Bosch or Nippondenso and should be marked somewhere on the side of the dizzy. Or you could just take the points into the shop with you, any good place will know there were two types.

 

ps Points are a product of the devil :jamie:

Edited April 15, 2010 by LukeAE71

[Taz_Rx]

Good work Luke! :jamie:

 

If your point aren't actually opening at the moment another thing to check may be the felt pad which is the bit that runs on the square shaft Luke explained. If this felt pad hasn't been lubricated properly (it should be greased up when installed) then they can actually snap off. This will cause to points to not open and you won't get any spark to the engine at all.

[Twinky]

So basically I have to set the points gap right at the highest point of the cam. Cool this should be easy as the rotor button stops pointing exactly at the cylinder.

I have replaced the points and also the felt pad ( came as a whole assembly ).

Just hope I havent flooded the engine with all the turning over I have done trying to figure out why the engine would not start.

 

Cheers

[Taz_Rx]

If you have just find it over some more with your foot flat on the throttle. That'll clear her out. :jamie:

[Felix]

The sparkplug gap should be 0.8 mm.

 

The pointgap should be around 0.45mm.

[LukeAE71]

So basically I have to set the points gap right at the highest point of the cam. Cool this should be easy as the rotor button stops pointing exactly at the cylinder.

I have replaced the points and also the felt pad ( came as a whole assembly ).

Just hope I havent flooded the engine with all the turning over I have done trying to figure out why the engine would not start.

 

Cheers

 

Yep you've got the idea :jamie:

 

When you rotate it by hand you should notice it open and close at each cam point :lol:

[bruce]

yeah, around 0.45mm for the points gap. Dwell angle around 46, and 8 degrees for ignition timing.

[son of stig]

Aside from the points gap, your first post says you have no spark from the coil? Is this rectified now?

Forgive me if I'm on the wrong train of thought here, but i don't think replacing all those things will solve the spark at the coil? That would more likely be the coil itself or the wiring to it?

[altezzaclub]

...and don't forget that altering the points gap will change the timing, so you will have to reset that also...

 

Check for spark at the coil once you have set the points & timing, just stick an old spark plug or a screwdriver into a plug lead and earth it on the motor. You will hear the spark or maybe see it as you turn it over.

 

If you don't get a spark then the coil might be dead, or a wire to the coil might be faulty.

[Twinky]

Woot problem solved! And I have some tips on setting the spark gap. On easier way to set the gap without the feeler guage is to loosen the bolt that clamps the distributor down and rotate the distributor. The points should only be loosely screwed on, as you rotate the distributor and hit a lobe (set the felt pad on the exact centre of the lobe!!!) on the cam you should be able to push the points towards the cam untill you see the spark. Play around with the distance till you get what you think is the best spark by tightening the points up and rotating the distributor back and forth getting a constant spark. After that just bolt everything back together except for the clamping bolt for the distributor, start the engine and then reset the distributor timing till you get the quickest and smoothest idle speed.

Thats about it in a nutshell. I could probably do a pictorial if there is enough interest from the masses. Just reading about how to set the gap is difficult if you can't see what you actually have to do. If you have done the spark gap before then you would know exactly what i'm talking about

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Does anyone have a parts number for 4k-c points (and condenser) ?

I got a set at Repco today along with a condenser and they aren't right, and the Bosch page wont let me open the catalogue. :bash:

 

This is what they gave me??? Or are there different 4k dizzys?

 

Just wondering if they are the retards or if its all Reed :laff:

 

[Twinky]

Looks like the normal unit to me.

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Totally different to the ones in mine.

[KENut]

Reed, same thing happened to me, I gave up and went electronic :laff:

 

But apparently xu1 torana ones are the go, stronger spring good for high rpms