K Series Box Short Shifter.

[Redwarf]

Hello all.

 

Just thought I'd put up some piccies of the short shifter I built.

 

Mark I shifter was done by welding an extra piece of metal into the g/box end of the shifter. The extra length was around 20 mm. A spacer plate was made up for to go between the extension housing and the shifter mount.

 

The photo's below are from the Mark II effort. A new lower section of the shifter was machined from tool steel. The extra length was 18 mm. Another spacer was also machined up out of 18mm thick Alloy.

 

The reduction in shift throw was around 50%.

 

Now manufacturing a new lower section of shifter is tricky, and takes someone fairly handy on the tools (ie: I didn't actually make it, someone talented did). Another option would be to only machine up only the end of the shift. ie from the big ball thingy to the tip. You could cut the existing end off, and thread the new one into the ball. the trick would be getting the exact length correct.

 

Food for thought.

 

Standard vs modded shifter.

 

Spacer on box side.

[KE30_KE35_KE55]

nice job how close are the gates together 1&3 / 2&4 can you still tell witch gate you are in?

[Redwarf]

nice job how close are the gates together 1&3 / 2&4 can you still tell witch gate you are in?

 

 

Certainally can. It makes it all quite tight and slick actually. The gear that I had a marginal amount of hassle with was Reverse. Still want in ok, but you had to be careful with the shift.

 

I used it in competition and never missed a shift. Literally.

[KE30_KE35_KE55]

Certainally can. It makes it all quite tight and slick actually. The gear that I had a marginal amount of hassle with was Reverse. Still want in ok, but you had to be careful with the shift.

 

I used it in competition and never missed a shift. Literally.

 

It sounds nice like a sports shift

[Sabmac]

You could CAD this and sell it. I'd be interested.

[AJC]

Very neat. I take it the spacer needs to match the additional length of the shaft?

[rwd-starlet]

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Edited September 19, 2019 by rwd-starlet

[camerondownunder88]

Just to add info to Red. MK I was 20.4mm thick to be picky. Also Ill throw up a few pics of MK Ito show people the weld version so they can see how the build can vary but still be good.

 

Main point with these WELD THE EXTENSION ON STRAIGHT. If you don't the shifter will be off leaning in a different direction from where it should sit etc could get messy.

 

Also For the spacer could just buy aluminum plate thick or thin. MK I by the looks is made with thin plate 10mm thick and 2 pieces pinned together.

 

Also Red after talking about it I had a bent rusted now in the bin shifter. I cut the straight part off at the ball. Would be enough metal there to drill and tap a thread so you can have screw in longer sections so you could vary/tune your shift. Never took pics of the cut and metal room but.

 

Pics below of MK I

Above close up of weld.

 

Cam.

[Redwarf]

Thanks Cam!

[rwd-starlet]

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Edited September 19, 2019 by rwd-starlet

[camerondownunder88]

MK I I got out of my box today sitting in shed. It shifts the same probably shorter as it is 2mm longer. Yes I know has surface rust ill get to that one day..LOL So no MK I hasn't broken anything, still works its just dirty.

 

I think Red not 100% sure here just wanted a better looking one so he made MK II and he had a few gearboxes that needed short shifters so that would be my guess at it.

 

 

Cameron

[Redwarf]

Always used Mk II because it was far sexier and better made.

 

The MkI was a case of, "gee I wonder if this works.." and it did. As the shift was going to reside in a competetion car the decision was made to build the second one, and someone I know had made the offer to machine it up.

 

I can't see why the MkI wouldn't work long term, all that I would do is check it for cracks occasionally. That was the advantage of the MkII, as it is one piece made from king hard steel, it's never going to bend or crack, and hadn't had large amounts of heat put through it by welding.

 

Try it, find out, keep a spare in the boot for a bit, and get back to us!! :y:

[rwd-starlet]

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Edited September 19, 2019 by rwd-starlet

[Redwarf]

Trust me, don't shorten the shifter, that's why we go to all the hassle of shortening the throw. Cutting the length down moves the.... errrrr.... for want of a better word, knob down thus meaning your hand has further to go to change gears. With the right length shift, it is only a short movement to change and then get back on the wheel (where it should be), as well as having a short throw, and a positive shift.

 

Shortening the gear lever length is kind of counter productive.

Edited January 14, 2008 by Redwarf

[rwd-starlet]

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Edited September 19, 2019 by rwd-starlet