styler Posted August 30, 2006 Report Posted August 30, 2006 (edited) talk about a million ways to do one thing! seems like there is multiple methods of getting neg camber, what does everyone think of them: this is in relation to ke corollas: (ke20 to ke55) but generally applies to most cars. strut: camber strut plates camber / caster strut plates drill strut top different struts bend struts control arms: longer control arms from another car use 2 original arms and weld longer rose jointed control arms re drill crossmember eccentric bush kits other: neg camber RCA's pull strut tops in with strut brace (lol...) replace strut and control arm setup from another car that suits i suppose one major issue is if its adjustable or not, personally i am looking at a fixed amount of camber, only 2 to 4 deg if that. and legal too. was leaning towards longer control arms from another car or redrilling the cross member... and another thing is where you want the wheel to sit once its all done. Edited August 30, 2006 by styler Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted August 30, 2006 Report Posted August 30, 2006 Forget about the extend the control arm idea, it upsets your steering geometry. Quote
anastasios Posted August 30, 2006 Report Posted August 30, 2006 we used sigma gh lcas with ta22 struts and brakes and it sits awsome and handles real good gives about 3 deg of camber Quote
Redwarf Posted August 30, 2006 Report Posted August 30, 2006 I'm the other way around. As I can't move my top mounts due to the rules, I rose joint the lower control arms. If you need more than 2 deg of camber on a road car, you're doing something wrong. Quote
Des Posted August 30, 2006 Report Posted August 30, 2006 i had really bad camber on my seca don't know what it was but it was wearing unevenly on my back tires and was really loose. The back wanted to step out everywhere, i needed to get camber pins put in to correct it.thats what happens when you put super lows in a seca.cost $40 for the pins and to get them installed.i think goodyear said i had 4 deg of camber looked awesome but unstreetable. cheers des :D Quote
Fraggle Posted August 30, 2006 Report Posted August 30, 2006 Redrill crossmember or slot the holes and weld up the old holes grind them off (thats what I did) 2 degrees on mine!!! Its a khana pig ?? Quote
coln72 Posted August 31, 2006 Report Posted August 31, 2006 same as fraggle, but didn't bother welding up the old holes. One event on the bomber strip at Ballarat covers all evidence with mud :D Also, when I fitted KE35 strut tops on my 20 I took the oportunity to move them in a bees dick, every little bit counts. Quote
ancullen Posted August 31, 2006 Report Posted August 31, 2006 Bend the struts!?!?!?! That sounds a tad scary. Quote
styler Posted August 31, 2006 Author Report Posted August 31, 2006 (edited) Forget about the extend the control arm idea, it upsets your steering geometry thats interesting, i have never heard anyone say it affects the geometry... and so many people use the control arm option. mind explaining further? could be similar to lowering your car, you should use RCA's when lowering so the roll centre is not affected which affects the geometry of the car. although one reason to use the longer control arm is that there is hardly any movement for the top of the strut to come inwards on old ke rollas unless a coil over setup is used. we used sigma gh lcas with ta22 struts and brakes and it sits awsome and handles real good gives about 3 deg of camber thats them, other sigmas have different control arm bolt patterens as people have found out, the hard way :D I'm the other way around. As I can't move my top mounts due to the rules, I rose joint the lower control arms. If you need more than 2 deg of camber on a road car, you're doing something wrong. i wouldnt mind doing this but i don't need them to be adjustable, not that thats a bad thing! i don't think the design is as strong, but because its illegal on the road is the reason why i have not used it. yeah only a few deg, 1, 1.5, 2 deg at most, just a bit of camber:) cost $40 for the pins and to get them installed yeah these are a fairly new product and they would be cheap to manufacture, basically it moves the control arm outwards using a eccentic bush kit, the lobe is on the bolt, if these are strong design and give 1.5 deg or so it could be an option :D Redrill crossmember or slot the holes so how far out do you drill the new holes? do they overlap the existing holes? basically if you went for new metal as close to the old holes as possible, then how many degrees would that be? also i think if the holes were slotted on the struts, it would only give a half or 1 degree at most? bend the struts, scary! thats what i thought! but apparently pedders and the rest of them will do it! a lot of people seem to recommend this option as a quick done camber job. and it hardly affects the wheel position, just the angle, maybe thats why it popular? thank you for all the input! :D Edited August 31, 2006 by styler Quote
coln72 Posted August 31, 2006 Report Posted August 31, 2006 Redrilled holes about an inch out and slightly above the old ones. don't know the camber change but I think it is just over 1 deg per inch. Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted August 31, 2006 Report Posted August 31, 2006 Forget about the extend the control arm idea, it upsets your steering geometry thats interesting, i have never heard anyone say it affects the geometry... and so many people use the control arm option. mind explaining further? could be similar to lowering your car, you should use RCA's when lowering so the roll centre is not affected which affects the geometry of the car. although one reason to use the longer control arm is that there is hardly any movement for the top of the strut to come inwards on old ke rollas unless a coil over setup is used. I'm unsure what the principle is called, but it is the one where you draw a line from your ball joints to the centre of the rear axel, your tie rod joint must sit exactly somewhere along this line. If you were to lengthen the front control arms, this central point would land way behind your diff and consequently, screw with your steering geometry. :D I asked my engineer about that idea and he was very quick to shut me down!! Quote
ca18rolla Posted August 31, 2006 Report Posted August 31, 2006 Pedders told me Bending the strut is actuallt better then a camber kit cause all a camber kit does is shift the topover. Which effects the geometry. They have a special press for doing this with a dial gauge on it to get the right amount of camber Quote
st.nick Posted August 31, 2006 Report Posted August 31, 2006 we used sigma gh lcas... gives about 3 deg of camber Are they the control arms with Bolt-on balljoints?? If so, its more like 6 degrees negative!! I did mine with older sigma (GE) lcas, and its more like 1.5-2 deg neg, and that brilliant. As Redwarf said, anything over is completely pointless. Best thing about the early model arms, is that they look identical to Corolla arms (ie, single piece arms with press-in balljoints) Quote
anastasios Posted August 31, 2006 Report Posted August 31, 2006 Well with the gh lcas we pressed in the balljoints into them and the reason they are used instead of the ra40 lcas is that the sigma ones are better quality and made stronger Quote
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