Tech:Engine/K Series/Camshaft - Revision history

Irokin at 02:02, 16 September 2012

2012-09-16T02:02:01Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:02, 16 September 2012
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			[[Category:K Motor]]
	== Camshaft ==		== Camshaft ==

Felix: /* Camshaft */

2009-07-09T09:41:30Z

Camshaft

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:41, 9 July 2009
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			== Camshaft Replacement for K Series motors. ==


			When you do the cam,

			'''Degrease engine before hand.'''

			I always set the engine with cylinder 1 on TDC on the firing stroke.
			Set the engine with the timing mark on the pulley on the TDC mark.
			Look at the cap note where no1 lead goes. Should be inline with the
			second spark plug hole in the head. Pull off the cap, if the rotor
			button points to where no1 lead was your set. If it points to four,
			turn the engine over 360degrees.

			Once you have the radiator out loosen the crank pully bolt before you
			rip into the engine. A bit of compression helps here, put in gear
			with the handbrake on. Get a big spanner or breaker bar and your
			favourite big hammer, and belt the shit out of it until it undoes.
			Cheaper than an impact wrench :) Watch the spanner or socket doesn't
			slip, or you may strip the head.

			Most of the time you can pry the crank pulley off with a couple of
			big flatheads. Some pull off, usually ones out of the car. :( A
			couple of long bolts through the 2 threaded holes in the pulley will
			move a stubborn one.

			Open the engine up, take out the rocker setup remove bolts outside
			in, remove pushrods and fishout the lifters, maintaining the order.
			About this time you will be cursing if you haven't maintained
			frequent oil changes.

			raise the car on stands and drop the engine mounts on the xmember and
			raise the engine for working room. I'd loosen right off the back 3 or
			so sump nuts on each side (may need to loosen off block to gearbox
			strengthening brackets if fitted for access), and take off all the
			nuts forward of this. Carefully drop the front of the sump, pull off
			the timing cover, remove the tensioner, undo the cam gear, remove the
			gear and screw the bolt back into the cam a few turns. Remove the cam
			thrustbearing and carefully slide out the cam.

			Lube up the lobes of the cam with camlube or moly grease. Slide in
			the new cam, reassemble, double checking the timing marks. Before
			you put the timing cover back on, remove the studs for the
			sump attachment and replace with bolts. Make things easier next time,
			as you dont need to drop the sump anywhere near as much.

			Use locktite no3 non hardening aviation goop, and give the sump
			gasket a good coating. Tighten the sump nuts up evenly. If you do it
			right it will never leak.

			No big deal to put back together, just watch distrubutor timing.
			Sometimes the oil pumpdrive can throw you out a tooth when you drop
			in the dizzy if not aligned properly.

			Before you start it, pull the coil lead and crank over to build up
			oil pressure. Connect coil lead and start. Run at fast idle over 2000
			rpm for half an hour to break in cam. Recheck valve clearances after
			a few days running.

			It's not too bad a job. If the engine is clean and you raise
			everything for access it makes things a lot smoother.


			----

			''Article by Felix''

			----

	Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]		Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]

MedicineMan at 08:28, 7 September 2008

2008-09-07T08:28:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:28, 7 September 2008
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	Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]		Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]

	Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/~~wiki~~/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]		Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

	[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]		[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

MedicineMan: /* Camshaft */

2008-07-28T09:30:10Z

Camshaft

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:30, 28 July 2008
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	Note: Tighe 104 cam does not appear to have an aggressive/lumpy idle - Justin...		Note: Tighe 104 cam does not appear to have an aggressive/lumpy idle (Camshaft supplied, They charge you $110 to grind a standard cam to spec) - Justin...

MedicineMan at 11:40, 30 January 2008

2008-01-30T11:40:31Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:40, 30 January 2008
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	== ~~Camshafts~~ ==		== Camshaft ==

	There are two stock camshaft profiles. The first is found in Sprinter motors with twincarbs (K-B, 3K-B), it's an 18-58 (256 degrees). The second is found in all other K motors with solid lifters, and is a 16-50 (246 degrees) with 0.338" intake valve lift and 0.356" exhaust valve lift.		There are two stock camshaft profiles. The first is found in Sprinter motors with twincarbs (K-B, 3K-B), it's an 18-58 (256 degrees). The second is found in all other K motors with solid lifters, and is a 16-50 (246 degrees) with 0.338" intake valve lift and 0.356" exhaust valve lift.
Line 18:		Line 18:

	'''Waggott 605:''' 21-61/63-19, 262 degrees, 0.347"/0.343" valvelift (stage 1 grind, Alex uses this one, peak power 6500rpm)		'''Waggott 605:''' 21-61/63-19, 262 degrees, 0.347"/0.343" valvelift (stage 1 grind, Alex uses this one, peak power 6500rpm)


	Note: Tighe 104 cam does not appear to have an aggressive/lumpy idle - Justin...		Note: Tighe 104 cam does not appear to have an aggressive/lumpy idle - Justin...


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MedicineMan at 11:40, 30 January 2008

2008-01-30T11:40:11Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:40, 30 January 2008
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	'''Waggott 605:''' 21-61/63-19, 262 degrees, 0.347"/0.343" valvelift (stage 1 grind, Alex uses this one, peak power 6500rpm)		'''Waggott 605:''' 21-61/63-19, 262 degrees, 0.347"/0.343" valvelift (stage 1 grind, Alex uses this one, peak power 6500rpm)

			Note: Tighe 104 cam does not appear to have an aggressive/lumpy idle - Justin...

	----		----

MedicineMan at 11:39, 30 January 2008

2008-01-30T11:39:12Z

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-[[Category: Engine]]
+== Camshafts ==
 There are two stock camshaft profiles. The first is found in Sprinter motors with twincarbs (K-B, 3K-B), it's an 18-58 (256 degrees). The second is found in all other K motors with solid lifters, and is a 16-50 (246 degrees) with 0.338" intake valve lift and 0.356" exhaust valve lift.
@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
 '''Waggott 605:''' 21-61/63-19, 262 degrees, 0.347"/0.343" valvelift (stage 1 grind, Alex uses this one, peak power 6500rpm)

Irokin: Tech:Engine/Camshaft moved to Tech:Engine/K Series/Camshaft: Categorizing

2007-01-07T05:10:41Z

Tech:Engine/Camshaft moved to Tech:Engine/K Series/Camshaft: Categorizing

← Older revision	Revision as of 05:10, 7 January 2007
(No difference)

Super Jamie at 12:42, 26 April 2005

2005-04-26T12:42:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:42, 26 April 2005
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	There are many, many aftermarket cam grinds available for these motors. Here are some popular ones:		There are many, many aftermarket cam grinds available for these motors. Here are some popular ones:

	'''Tighe 112:''' 20-60, 260 degrees, 0.423" valvelift (~~probably the~~ best for ~~torquey street use~~, ~~7000rpm~~ peak power)		'''Tighe 112:''' 20-60, 260 degrees, 0.423" valvelift (best for 3K engine, most torque in 4k/5k, 6500rpm peak power)

	'''Tighe 104:''' 25-65, 270 degrees, 0.423" valvelift (~~stage 3 grind~~, Doug ~~uses this cam~~, ~~I use the same spec grind with~~ less ~~lift~~)		'''Tighe 104:''' 25-65, 270 degrees, 0.423" valvelift (best for powerful 4K/5K, alot of torque, 7500rpm peak power)

			'''Wade 169x:''' 30-70, 280 degrees, 0.405" valvelift (custom cam in Doug's rally car, slightly more top end, slightly less torque than above)

	'''Camtech 609:''' 33-64/72-32, 277/284 degrees, 0.435" valvelift (this is Stewart's cam, peak power 8000+rpm)		'''Camtech 609:''' 33-64/72-32, 277/284 degrees, 0.435" valvelift (this is Stewart's cam, peak power 8000+rpm)

	'''Waggott 605:''' 21-61/63-19, 262 degrees, 0.347"/0.343" valvelift (stage 1 grind, Alex uses this one, peak power 6500rpm)		'''Waggott 605:''' 21-61/63-19, 262 degrees, 0.347"/0.343" valvelift (stage 1 grind, Alex uses this one, peak power 6500rpm)

Super Jamie at 12:17, 26 April 2005

2005-04-26T12:17:13Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:17, 26 April 2005
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	[[Category: Engine]]		[[Category: Engine]]

			There are two stock camshaft profiles. The first is found in Sprinter motors with twincarbs (K-B, 3K-B), it's an 18-58 (256 degrees). The second is found in all other K motors with solid lifters, and is a 16-50 (246 degrees) with 0.338" intake valve lift and 0.356" exhaust valve lift.


			The camshaft is modified by grinding the lobes, you don't have to buy a new cam when you want different valve openings.


			There are many, many aftermarket cam grinds available for these motors. Here are some popular ones:

			'''Tighe 112:''' 20-60, 260 degrees, 0.423" valvelift (probably the best for torquey street use, 7000rpm peak power)

			'''Tighe 104:''' 25-65, 270 degrees, 0.423" valvelift (stage 3 grind, Doug uses this cam, I use the same spec grind with less lift)

			'''Camtech 609:''' 33-64/72-32, 277/284 degrees, 0.435" valvelift (this is Stewart's cam, peak power 8000+rpm)

			'''Waggott 605:''' 21-61/63-19, 262 degrees, 0.347"/0.343" valvelift (stage 1 grind, Alex uses this one, peak power 6500rpm)