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Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks

2006-03-15T08:09:46Z

Trd ke70: /* Description */

[[Category: Engine]]

=== Description ===

All K Motors are watercooled inline 30-degree slant 4-cylinders, have overhead valves with pushrods, and are driven by a single or double row timing chain. Ranging from 1.0 to 1.8L made from 1966 to present, they appear in Corolla RWD (KE series), Publica and Starlet RWD (KP series), and various Toyota Vans. Currently still in production in the TownAce SBV (7K) and Toyota Industrial forklifts (4K).

Models up to 4K have points-style distributors, some 4K, and all later motors have an electronic distributor, of which there is an external ignitor dizzy on 4Ks and internal ignitor model on 5/7K. There is one common manifold stud design across all Ks, however sumps can vary depending on vehicle application

4K onwards have a 10mm higher deck height than 3K and earlier. All Ks have an aluminium alloy head, the 1K, 3K and 4K combustion center is in the head, while 5K and 7K perform combustion in the cylnder bore (called a heron-type combustion chamber). 1K-5K heads are interchangeable (disregarding the resulting compression), however 7K head bolt pattern is different to all the others, in that it has 3 more bolt positions neaar the pushrods

Dished piston 4Ks did exist, in the 4K-U and 4K-E variants, each having different piston dish capacity. Most 5Ks are dished, but there are some 5k's with flat top pistons, these engines also can have solid lifters,however aftermarket flat-top pistons do exist.

The diaphragm-type fuel pump is mounted on the side of the block and actuated by a lobe on the camshaft. The injected 4K-E has a different rocker cover than the others due to intake plenum design. Oil filter is Toyota Genuine Parts 15601-33021 (Ryco Z68). The small oil filter from 4A engine (part no?) also fits, as does a large Ford Z9 filter.

All K blocks have the same bellhousing studs and engine mount points, so you can drop a 7K in place of your 1K without a problem. Automatic cars have a different engine backing plate than the manuals, but all gearboxes bolt up to all engine blocks.

The Gregories says this more eloquently than I can:

The five bearing crankshaft and flywheel are dynamically balanced and crankshaft end play is controlled at the centre main journal by thrust washers which are separate from the main bearings. The main big end bearings are replaceable steel backed shells. The cam ground alloy pistons are equipped with two compression rings and one oil control ring. The fully floating gudgeon pin is offset towards the camshaft side of the engine and is secured by circlips at both ends. Connecting rods are H section forged steel. The camshaft is chain driven and supported in four precision type bearings. The aluminium alloy cylinder head is designed with wedge shaped combustion chambers to allow efficient heat distribution. These wedge type chambers, together with independant inlet and outlet ports, provide smooth performance during all operating conditions. The lubrication system is a forced feed, full flow filtering type. The trochoid gear type oil pump is driven through the distributor shaft from the camshaft. The oil filter is a spin-on throw away type.

=== Specifications ===

<table border="1" width="100%">
<tr>
<td width="11%">Engine</td>
<td width="11%">Year</td>
<td width="11%">Displacement</td>

<td width="11%">BHP</td>
<td width="11%">Torque (lb-ft)</td>
<td width="11%">Bore (mm) 
</td>
<td width="11%">Stroke (mm) 
</td>
<td width="11%">CR</td>

<td width="11%">Notes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">K</td>
<td width="11%">66-69</td>
<td width="11%">1077</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>

<td width="11%">62.7@3800</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">K-B</td>
<td width="11%">68-69</td>
<td width="11%">1077</td>
<td width="11%">73@6600</td>
<td width="11%">66.3@4400</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>
<td width="11%">sprinter twincarb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">2K</td>
<td width="11%">69-88</td>

<td width="11%">993</td>
<td width="11%">45@5600</td>
<td width="11%">49@4000</td>
<td width="11%">72</td>
<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>

<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K</td>
<td width="11%">69-77</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">73@6000</td>

<td width="11%">74.2@3800</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">3K-B</td>
<td width="11%">69-75</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">83@6600</td>
<td width="11%">75@4600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>
<td width="11%">sprinter twincarb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K-D</td>
<td width="11%">69-77</td>

<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">79@6600</td>
<td width="11%">75@4200</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>

<td width="11%">dual carb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K-H</td>
<td width="11%">74-79</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>

<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">3K-C</td>
<td width="11%">77-79</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">8.5:1</td>
<td width="11%">Californian emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">78-89+</td>

<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">80-81</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-U</td>

<td width="11%">82</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">74@5600</td>
<td width="11%">78@3600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>

<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%">Japanese emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">82-84</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>

<td width="11%">65@5600</td>
<td width="11%">72@3600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9.4:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-C</td>
<td width="11%">81-82</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">58@5200</td>
<td width="11%">67@3600</td>

<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%">Californian emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-E</td>

<td width="11%">82-84</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">58@4200</td>
<td width="11%">74@3400</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>

<td width="11%">9.5:1</td>
<td width="11%">Fuel Injection</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">5K</td>
<td width="11%">83-89</td>
<td width="11%">1496</td>

<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">80.5</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">7K</td>
<td width="11%">98</td>
<td width="11%">1781</td>
<td width="11%">76@4600</td>
<td width="11%">103@2800</td>
<td width="11%">80.5</td>

<td width="11%">87.5</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
</table>

Tech:Drivetrain/Bellhousing

2005-11-24T08:59:47Z

Trd ke70: /* K to W */

Recently it has become much easier to source upgraded Bellhousings. Here are some of the common ones with information on how / where to obtain them if at all possible.

In a nutshell, people are finding more power from smaller Toyota engines, this extra power tends to break things, the next thing in line after your engine is your gearbox. Rather than buy six million gearboxes for every time you know you will break one, it may be wise to consider upgrading to a stronger Gearbox.

In Terms of strength in Toyotas, the more common boxes are (very generally) ordered here from Weak to Strong.

'''Weak'''

K40, K50 (used on K series engines)

T40, T50 (used on T and A series engines)

W50 (different to W5x - used behind R and M? series engines)

W55, W56, W57 (Used on Celicas and Supras)

W58 (Supra Turbo etc)

R154 (Turbo Supras / Soarers etc)

'''Strong'''

I found an article that compares the Toyota gearboxes which was apparently scanned from Street Commodores magazine originally and can be found [[http://www.conceptual.net.au/~peewee/yoda_5spd_boxes.html|here]]

'''Things to keep in mind / Disclaimer'''

* Bigger is NOT always better - putting an R154 behind a K series engine is hardly going to be affordable or worthwhile
* Flywheel & Starter - Remember also that you need to find out what flywheel and starter motor are best suited to use with the upgraded bellhousing.
* Tailshaft - If you upgrade your gearbox, chances are that you will need a stonger replacement tailshaft or possibly have yours modified / customised
* Diff / Axles / etc - Remember the weakest link of your drivetrain dictates how much power you can put to the ground. If you keep blowing up gearboxes, chances are that after you upgrade your diff is going to shatter with that big horsepower going through it, it might be time to think about upgrading that as well ;)
* Brakes - Ok well this isn't part of your driveline but I couldn't help but add something here about making your monster-engined-whatever STOP when you hit the brakes. This is something which is too-often overlooked and as far as I am concerned the thing most overlooked in engine conversions. Safety FIRST, not second!

== K to T ==

Now that people are milking out 160 horsepower from the K series engines, it is clear that the K40 / K50 box is no longer up to the task. Fortunately for us, Toyota saved us the hassle and actually made a FACTORY K-To-T bellhousing. This was used in the KT140, KT141, KT142, KT147 series Coronas (as far as I know only in New Zealand) which came from the factory with a 5K-C hooked up to a T50 gearbox! This is quite a sensible package.

K-To-T is the perfect Upgrade for those who have lost faith in the strength of K series gearboxes. I myself have recently purchased one privately for $205 New Zealand Dollars / $184 Australian Dollars / $138 US Dollars from [http://www.trademe.co.nz Trademe.co.nz] which doesn't include shipping.

Availability : Second hand there are quite a few on the ground in New Zealand, and using Trademe.co.nz will be your best option at this stage. I have not yet heard of Aftermarket (brand new) manufactured K-To-T's but there would probably be someone out there who would have produced them by now if you searched hard enough.

== K to W ==

This is starting to borderline overkill! A W55 gearbox is nearing 43kg alone, to go completely overkill I have heard that some aftermarket manufacturers made a K-engine-to-W5x bellhousing. As it is the W55 is rumoured to be able to withstand about 300 horsepower of punishment, a far cry from the best of 165+HP from a K series engine that I have seen proof of.

Availability :A late KR series townace van has the K-W bellhousing, these will bolt up to a W series box with only a change from cable to hydraulic clutch.

== A to T ==

Standard equipment in rear wheel drive AE86s, AE71s etc. Bellhousing is removable. Not an upgrade as such, but worthwhile mentioning :)

== A to W ==

Very common, probably available second hand all over the place but is available brand new in many places. You have to love aftermarket go-fast-bits and bolt-ons!

Perfect upgrade for anyone looking to put a stonger box behind a particularly rambunctious 4A-GE / 4A-GZE / 4A-GTE / 7AFE / 7AGE / 7AGTE etc etc. With claims of being able to handle upwards of 300 horsepower with ease, the W55 style gearbox is what you want.

Sources:

I am aware of a source in Malaysia that can supply these for approx AUS $~400 landed anywhere in Mainland Australia, but unsure if this offer is still being extended to anyone else.

== S to T ==

== S to W ==

Distributor

2005-11-13T13:23:14Z

Trd ke70:

from Doug's Classic Corollas & Small Haulers page http://au.geocities.com/ke1x/ignition.htm

There are a few different types of distributors fitted to K series engines over the years. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.

'''Nippon Denso Points Type'''

KE1X corollas came out with ND (Nippon Denso) distributors as standard. The earlier ones did not have an octane selector, but apart from that they are all pretty much identical. This same distributor (with octane selector) was used through to the jap imported KE3X corollas. Different models utilize different advance curves.

I like these distributors for the fact that you can easily alter your timing to suit the weather and variance in fuel quality.

The only real problem is the mechanical advance mechanism, which tend to wear rapidly if not lubricated on a regular basis. The bushes in the advance weights develop slop and the slots which control the advance curve can wear. This usually allows the weights to advance, but not retract properly, and you end up with excessive low rev advance and pinging. The vacuum advance plate can stick as well if not periodically oiled.

'''Bosch Points Type'''

The Bosch distributor was on later Australian produced Corolla models. These are better made than the earlier ND distributors.

They share the same points as what the majority of Holden red motors used. Points are real cheap and readily available.

My only gripe with the Bosch type is that it doesn't utilize an octane selector.

From a maintanence perspective, these are far more reliable due to a more rugged better design. The advance mechanisms don't really wear, and the vacuum advance plate is far smoother and less prone to sticking. You should still lubricate periodically.

One thing to watch for is the vacuum advance canisters. I have come across quite a few with leaky diaphrams in the canisters.

If you are recurving a dizzy, the Bosch would have to be the best. Many different Australian vehicles used variations of the Bosch dizzy. Weights, springs and vacuum advance canisters from other vehicles can be used to fine tune the all important advance curve.

'''Nippon Denso Electronic Type'''

These a mainly found on jap import motors.

There are 2 types, 5K internal ignitor and 4K external ignitor. The internal ignitor dizzy, just needs to be connected to an appropriate electronic coil. The external type needs an ignitor to fire the coil. Ignitors from Mazda RX7s and Mitsubishi Scorpions can be utilized with the external dizzy.
The late KR series Townace van also have electronic distributors. The 7KC(carby) comes with the internal igniter type where the 7KE(injection) comes with the external type and also has a screw on distributor cap.

The electronic ND distributors are far better made than the early points versions. The advance mechanisms are a better design, more similar to the Bosch dizzy.

The worst bit about the electronic dizzy is its cost. Wreckers want around AU$150 for one. New igniters depending on type, are over AU$100. New electronic coils are more expensive too. If you take the time and look around a bit you can do it far cheaper.

'''More on Electronic Distributors'''

Both electronic distributors use the same cap (mine is Echlin P/N EP383B, interchangable with P/N JP546). My 4K external ignitor distributor is using Echlin rotor P/N EP324. When looking for replacements for these, it's a fair bet that the auto shop won't have an electric distributor listing for a Corolla, in this case look in the Toyota Lite-Ace section.

These are reluctor-style distributors, in effect they are actually AC generators, which output a signal to a solid state relay box called an Ignitor (or Ignition Module). The ignitor is hooked up to the coil, and switches the earthing the same way points do (so the earth then goes thru the coil, thru the ht lead, thru the park plug, etc etc). The "points" gap on an electronic dizzy should be 0.4-0.5mm, make sure you measure with a brass (or other non-magnetic) feeler gauge.

The first Mitsubishi Magnas apparently had electronic ignition in a Bosch distributor. I'll bet this would transfer into a Corolla Bosch unit. Don't forget the ignitor!

I priced new ignitors around September 2002. A Toyota (Torago I think) ignitor was ~$315, an RX7 ignitor was ~$220, and a Mitsubishi Scorpion ignitor was ~$130. Wreckers wanted ~$70 for a second hand ignitor from any 4 cylinder I wanted. Bosch and GM make 4 cyinder ignitors which go for about US$20 in the States, I would reccomend searching eBay for one of these and importing it, much cheaper. Then you'll want to know how to wire the ignitor, we can thank the Datsun mob for this info:

from The Dime Quarterly Datsun page http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html

The HEI module has four connecting points.

W - Connects to the positive lead at the distributor.
G - Connects to the negative lead at the distributor.
C - Connects to the negative side of the coil.
B - Connects to the positive side of the coil.

The red wire coming from the distributor is positive. If you find that your distributor has two green wires, you'll have to try running the car with the wires connected both ways to determine which combination is correct. If your first guess is wrong, the car will start, but it won’t run properly.

from Kyle Hagemann's page http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/hei.html
<tt>
---------------
/ \
/ \
W\ ------------- /C
G\/ \/B
W= positive lead from the pickup C= negative side of the coil
G= negative lead from the pickup B= positive side of the coil
</tt>

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