https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Taz+rx 2026-06-06T12:36:32Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.39.2 https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3712 2010-10-28T12:30:32Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there are two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> == Superchargers: ==<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other SC's like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> <br /> '''How to mount it:'''<br /> The easiest way to hang a SC off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can mount the charger in the position normally occupied by the A/C pump. As the mechanical fuel pump attaches to the block inside the A/C bracket, removing the pump and blocking its mounting point with a plate would be required. You should be upgrading your fuel system anyway so this won't be an issue.<br /> As the geometry on how the charger is mounted (compared to stock) some custom pipe work to the inlet and outlet would be required to suit your application.<br /> <br /> '''Connecting a belt:'''<br /> K series motors use a &quot;V belt&quot; and most SC's (including Toyota SC12/14) use a &quot;Ribbed belt&quot;, obviously this poses an issue of getting drive to the SC. You either need to convert the pulley on the SC to V-belt, or convert the existing K belt arangement to ribbed-belt. Another thing to bare in mind when choosing this setup is the fact that the Toyota SC12/14 have a electronically activated clutch pulley. If you want to retain this clutch (to be able to de-activate the SC) you'll have to get a bit crafty with the belt setup.<br /> As my personal experience is with turbos not chargers I'm going to PM some members here and ask how they went about the belt setups. Hopefully I'll have a run down of how to use both V-belts or ribbed-belts once I've heard back from these members.<br /> <br /> Response from Kickn5k: (V belt to S/C) I haven't changed from v/belt yet. I made a custom blower pulley in v-belt and ground out the three rivets on the STD clutch hub and then tapped pulley. To do it that way I have to bolt the pulley on first with the lock nut 4 bearing, then bolt the clutch hub onto it. This way you don't need to cut a spline in the pulley and it's also quite stable load wise which means you can run the belt a bit tighter and not damage the blower driveshaft.<br /> <br /> Response from 1jzke55: (Ribbed belt to S/C and V belts for alt &amp; water pump) We turned up the custom alloy bottom (crank) pulley so it bolts up to the front of the harmonic balancer. This way you can still use the standard V belt to run the water pump and alternator. Once that was made, bolted it up and made the blower bracket and made a little tensioner out of a couple bits i had laying around. <br /> <br /> If any member has some info on how to convert the whole pulley setup to a ribbed belt, please send me a PM with the info.<br /> <br /> '''Gearing the Supercharger:'''<br /> I've copied and pasted to below info from a post by 1JZke55:<br /> <br /> When fitting a supercharger, you should match the swept volume of the supercharger to the size of the engine. If the choice is made carefully, problems from overboosting and the required paraphenalia to solve these problems will be minimised.<br /> The supercharger will also be kept in its safe operating speed with correct selection.<br /> <br /> To choose a setup you need to know :-<br /> 1. Engine capacity<br /> 2. Maximum engine speed you will be using.<br /> 3. Boost level desired<br /> <br /> I am setting out the calcs needed for a 1200cc engine in the steps below.<br /> <br /> FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi )<br /> Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 1.2 litres x 6000 rpm = 7200 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (7200/2 = 3600 litres/min.<br /> This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost.<br /> <br /> SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio)<br /> Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure).<br /> (7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi)<br /> Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure.<br /> <br /> THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost)<br /> <br /> Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 3600 litres/min X 1.476 = 5313.6 litres/min for 7Psi boost.<br /> <br /> To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :-<br /> 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev)<br /> 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??)<br /> 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10-12Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??)<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed)<br /> Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.5 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required.<br /> 5313.6/1.5 litres = 3542.4 rpm for the SC14.<br /> 5313.6/1 litre = 5313.6 rpm Eaton M62<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio)<br /> Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is<br /> 3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904.<br /> <br /> EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO<br /> If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min<br /> <br /> Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi.<br /> <br /> if you want to get even more technical the sc14 is actually 1.42<br /> <br /> As 1JZke55 illuded to above apparently the Toyota SC12 and SC14 have teflon coated rotors and don't like being spun to about 14psi. I'm not sure if this is a shaft speed or general pressure problem but apparently the teflon can chip/flake off the rotors and cause a loss of compression. Hopefully somebody will read this and give us a definative answer!!!??? PM me (Taz_RX) if you do.<br /> <br /> I have been PM'ed a response on this now and have been told: The rotors in the SC12/14 chargers are actually hollow. When spun above 12,000rpm the hollow rotors can expand causing the outsides to touch, this can then flake of the teflon coating. Info came from Toymods.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Plumbing the supercharger:'''<br /> Once you've got your supercharger mounted and you've worked out your drive ratio and pulley arangement, the next step is to look at plumbing it up. Just like a turbo you can run the SC in either &quot;Blow-through&quot; or &quot;Draw/suck-through&quot;. Draw-through seems to be the most popular way on K series. This may be due to the fact that you don't need to ensure the SC has carbon seals like you do with a turbo to run fuel through it. Any carby that will provide adequate fuel/air flow (beit downdraft or sidedraft) for the application can be used in draw-through. You just need to make some sort of custom inlet to the charger so you can have a carby mounted off it. If this is the method used then the outlet of the SC simply needs to be plumbed into the intake manifold.<br /> For blow-through the inlet out the charger just needs some sort of air filtraion, and then the outlet is plumbed into the carby. Please see below for more info on blow-through carby setups.<br /> <br /> == Turbos: ==<br /> <br /> '''Choosing a turbo:'''<br /> One of the single most important decisions you will have to make is choosing a suitable sized turbo. Yes it’s great if a mate donates a turbo for free or very cheap, but if it’s simple too big or too small for your engine it can ultimately cost you more by the time manifolds, water and oil lines, cooler pipes etc have been changed. It’s a good idea to pick a turbo that flows around the same volume of gas as your engine. For example if you have a 4k – 1290cc one of the twins from a GTR might work well. RB26 – 2600cc/2 (2 turbos) = 1300cc. Be aware though that most stock fitment turbos are quite small for the engine they’re on. This means you can have a bit of lea-way in the bigger side of options. For example I have used a T25, T28 and a TD04-L which are all off 2000cc motors, on a 1500cc 5k. You wouldn’t want to go too much bigger than these though. Yes a T3 off an RB20/25 would work on a 5k, but you wouldn’t get any boost until well into the rev range. At the other end of the scale you wouldn’t want to use the turbo off say a turbo charade at 1000cc. Yes it’ll spool mighty quick and probably give some great torque, but will really restrict flow in the top end – A mildly worked 4k with a cam would probably make more top end power. That leads into another factor to bare in mind – The size of the turbo will determine where you get the majority of your power. A smaller turbo like a starlet CT9 or ET/EXA T2 will give great response and midrange but will restrict top end flow. In comparison a WRX TD04 or S13/14/15 T25 or T28 may be a little laggier in the mid-range but will pull harder and harder the further you rev. By modifying the A/R ratio of a turbo you can change the response of the turbo, but I’m not going to go in A/R here. Do a wiki/google search if you’re interested in A/R’s.<br /> One last thing to keep in mind – Are you always going to be happy with the turbo you first pick? Or is the turbo you got cheap off ebay actually any good? You might find that at some stage you need to change turbos, so your initial flange choice can be important. Personally I chose to use a turbo with a “T2” flange. This gives me the option of using any T25, T25G or T28 from a CA18 or SR20. I then also have the option of using any internally waste-gated, bolt on upgrade turbo designed for a CA/SR like a GT25/60R, GT28R etc. As mentioned above EXA’s and ET also have T2 exhaust housing inlet flanges, as do the T25’s on 300ZX’s and T28’s on GTR’s however they all have slightly different dump pipe flanges. So the availability of replacement turbos and future upgrades is something you should be thinking about when you pick your flange type.<br /> <br /> '''Connecting the turbo to your engine:<br /> There’s two main options when it comes to connecting a turbo to your exhaust system - Manifold or J-pipe. <br /> <br /> When it comes to performance a properly built manifold is always the better option, unfortunately is also the most expensive. Any decent mechanic/exhaust shop should be to build you a manifold, however makes sure they’re aware of all of the constraints of your engine bay. Taking them the whole car or getting them to come to you might be a better option.<br /> <br /> J-pipes are effectively an “adapter pipe” that allows you to retain the stock exhaust manifold, and as it is only one simple pipe they are a lot cheaper than a proper manifold. KE70 manifolds are the easiest to use for j-pipes as they have a single outlet. You could use a twin outlet KE55 style manifold but the j-pipe would be a bit more complicated and expensive. When using a j-pipe you also have a bit more choice on where you mount the turbo, especially if working in a tight engine bay. Don’t forget when mounting your turbo that you need to get a dump pipe and exhaust back out of the engine bay also!<br /> <br /> Both a manifold and a J-pipe should be made of ‘steam pipe’. This is a more resilient metal which is designed for the high heat of the job. Mild or stainless steel just isn’t really suitable, as it can droop or crack over time. I also had a noticeable drop in response after a few weeks of using a mild steel J-pipe.<br /> <br /> Another thing worth mentioning is the fact that K series manifold gaskets aren’t really designed for the increase in exhaust temperature. The main problem area is between exhaust ports 2 &amp; 3 as it’s obviously the hottest. For this reason I strongly recommend AGAINST using a 2x piece gasket (ACL etc) as the two gaskets but up to each other in this problem area. If you have regular 4/5k inlet ports (un-ported) then the best gasket to use is a genuine Toyota 7kc one (not a 7ke gasket as the ports are different again). They’re a one piece, 3 layer metal gasket which is also re-usable. The next best thing is a Permaseal EM30. This is also a one piece gasket, that does only last around 6 months but is around a ¼ of the price of the 7kc item. The good thing about the EM30 is it actually has 3k big port sized inlet ports, so if using a 3kbp or ported 4/5k head they can be quite handy. I know one NZ member of RC used to make his own copper manifold gaskets, so this is always another option, no matter how big your ports are. <br /> The flange gasket where your j-pipe bolts on can also burn out after 6 months or so. I did want to try using a tempered copper ring to replace this gasket but sold my j-pipe setup before trying it. Another thing that might be worth trying is getting your j-pipe professionally welded onto the cast manifold to eliminate the need for a gasket here.<br /> Bracing your manifold or j-pipe back onto the block is also highly recommended. The 6x bolts that hold both the inlet and exhaust manifolds onto the head are only just adequate for the stock setup let alone the extra weight of a turbo.</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3711 2010-10-24T02:34:56Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there are two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> == Superchargers: ==<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other SC's like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> <br /> '''How to mount it:'''<br /> The easiest way to hang a SC off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can mount the charger in the position normally occupied by the A/C pump. As the mechanical fuel pump attaches to the block inside the A/C bracket, removing the pump and blocking its mounting point with a plate would be required. You should be upgrading your fuel system anyway so this won't be an issue.<br /> As the geometry on how the charger is mounted (compared to stock) some custom pipe work to the inlet and outlet would be required to suit your application.<br /> <br /> '''Connecting a belt:'''<br /> K series motors use a &quot;V belt&quot; and most SC's (including Toyota SC12/14) use a &quot;Ribbed belt&quot;, obviously this poses an issue of getting drive to the SC. You either need to convert the pulley on the SC to V-belt, or convert the existing K belt arangement to ribbed-belt. Another thing to bare in mind when choosing this setup is the fact that the Toyota SC12/14 have a electronically activated clutch pulley. If you want to retain this clutch (to be able to de-activate the SC) you'll have to get a bit crafty with the belt setup.<br /> As my personal experience is with turbos not chargers I'm going to PM some members here and ask how they went about the belt setups. Hopefully I'll have a run down of how to use both V-belts or ribbed-belts once I've heard back from these members.<br /> <br /> Response from Kickn5k: (V belt to S/C) I haven't changed from v/belt yet. I made a custom blower pulley in v-belt and ground out the three rivets on the STD clutch hub and then tapped pulley. To do it that way I have to bolt the pulley on first with the lock nut 4 bearing, then bolt the clutch hub onto it. This way you don't need to cut a spline in the pulley and it's also quite stable load wise which means you can run the belt a bit tighter and not damage the blower driveshaft.<br /> <br /> Response from 1jzke55: (Ribbed belt to S/C and V belts for alt &amp; water pump) We turned up the custom alloy bottom (crank) pulley so it bolts up to the front of the harmonic balancer. This way you can still use the standard V belt to run the water pump and alternator. Once that was made, bolted it up and made the blower bracket and made a little tensioner out of a couple bits i had laying around. <br /> <br /> If any member has some info on how to convert the whole pulley setup to a ribbed belt, please send me a PM with the info.<br /> <br /> '''Gearing the Supercharger:'''<br /> I've copied and pasted to below info from a post by 1JZke55:<br /> <br /> When fitting a supercharger, you should match the swept volume of the supercharger to the size of the engine. If the choice is made carefully, problems from overboosting and the required paraphenalia to solve these problems will be minimised.<br /> The supercharger will also be kept in its safe operating speed with correct selection.<br /> <br /> To choose a setup you need to know :-<br /> 1. Engine capacity<br /> 2. Maximum engine speed you will be using.<br /> 3. Boost level desired<br /> <br /> I am setting out the calcs needed for a 1200cc engine in the steps below.<br /> <br /> FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi )<br /> Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 1.2 litres x 6000 rpm = 7200 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (7200/2 = 3600 litres/min.<br /> This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost.<br /> <br /> SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio)<br /> Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure).<br /> (7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi)<br /> Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure.<br /> <br /> THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost)<br /> <br /> Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 3600 litres/min X 1.476 = 5313.6 litres/min for 7Psi boost.<br /> <br /> To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :-<br /> 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev)<br /> 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??)<br /> 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10-12Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??)<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed)<br /> Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.5 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required.<br /> 5313.6/1.5 litres = 3542.4 rpm for the SC14.<br /> 5313.6/1 litre = 5313.6 rpm Eaton M62<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio)<br /> Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is<br /> 3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904.<br /> <br /> EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO<br /> If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min<br /> <br /> Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi.<br /> <br /> if you want to get even more technical the sc14 is actually 1.42<br /> <br /> As 1JZke55 illuded to above apparently the Toyota SC12 and SC14 have teflon coated rotors and don't like being spun to about 14psi. I'm not sure if this is a shaft speed or general pressure problem but apparently the teflon can chip/flake off the rotors and cause a loss of compression. Hopefully somebody will read this and give us a definative answer!!!??? PM me (Taz_RX) if you do.<br /> <br /> I have been PM'ed a response on this now and have been told: The rotors in the SC12/14 chargers are actually hollow. When spun above 12,000rpm the hollow rotors can expand causing the outsides to touch, this can then flake of the teflon coating. Info came from Toymods.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Plumbing the supercharger:'''<br /> Once you've got your supercharger mounted and you've worked out your drive ratio and pulley arangement, the next step is to look at plumbing it up. Just like a turbo you can run the SC in either &quot;Blow-through&quot; or &quot;Draw/suck-through&quot;. Draw-through seems to be the most popular way on K series. This may be due to the fact that you don't need to ensure the SC has carbon seals like you do with a turbo to run fuel through it. Any carby that will provide adequate fuel/air flow (beit downdraft or sidedraft) for the application can be used in draw-through. You just need to make some sort of custom inlet to the charger so you can have a carby mounted off it. If this is the method used then the outlet of the SC simply needs to be plumbed into the intake manifold.<br /> For blow-through the inlet out the charger just needs some sort of air filtraion, and then the outlet is plumbed into the carby. Please see below for more info on blow-through carby setups.<br /> <br /> == Turbos: ==<br /> <br /> '''Choosing a turbo:'''<br /> One of the single most important decisions you will have to make is choosing a suitable sized turbo. Yes it’s great if a mate donates a turbo for free or very cheap, but if it’s simple too big or too small for your engine it can ultimately cost you more by the time manifolds, water and oil lines, cooler pipes etc have been changed. It’s a good idea to pick a turbo that flows around the same volume of gas as your engine. For example if you have a 4k – 1290cc one of the twins from a GTR might work well. RB26 – 2600cc/2 (2 turbos) = 1300cc. Be aware though that most stock fitment turbos are quite small for the engine they’re on. This means you can have a bit of lea-way in the bigger side of options. For example I have used a T25, T28 and a TD04-L which are all off 2000cc motors, on a 1500cc 5k. You wouldn’t want to go too much bigger than these though. Yes a T3 off an RB20/25 would work on a 5k, but you wouldn’t get any boost until well into the rev range. At the other end of the scale you wouldn’t want to use the turbo off say a turbo charade at 1000cc. Yes it’ll spool mighty quick and probably give some great torque, but will really restrict flow in the top end – A mildly worked 4k with a cam would probably make more top end power. That leads into another factor to bare in mind – The size of the turbo will determine where you get the majority of your power. A smaller turbo like a starlet CT9 or ET/EXA T2 will give great response and midrange but will restrict top end flow. In comparison a WRX TD04 or S13/14/15 T25 or T28 may be a little laggier in the mid-range but will pull harder and harder the further you rev. By modifying the A/R ratio of a turbo you can change the response of the turbo, but I’m not going to go in A/R here. Do a wiki/google search if you’re interested in A/R’s.<br /> One last thing to keep in mind – Are you always going to be happy with the turbo you first pick? Or is the turbo you got cheap off ebay actually any good? You might find that at some stage you need to change turbos, so your initial flange choice can be important. Personally I chose to use a turbo with a “T2” flange. This gives me the option of using any T25, T25G or T28 from a CA18 or SR20. I then also have the option of using any internally waste-gated, bolt on upgrade turbo designed for a CA/SR like a GT25/60R, GT28R etc. As mentioned above EXA’s and ET also have T2 exhaust housing inlet flanges, as do the T25’s on 300ZX’s and T28’s on GTR’s however they all have slightly different dump pipe flanges. So the availability of replacement turbos and future upgrades is something you should be thinking about when you pick your flange type.</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3705 2010-06-03T05:29:44Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there are two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> == Superchargers: ==<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other SC's like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> <br /> '''How to mount it:'''<br /> The easiest way to hang a SC off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can mount the charger in the position normally occupied by the A/C pump. As the mechanical fuel pump attaches to the block inside the A/C bracket, removing the pump and blocking its mounting point with a plate would be required. You should be upgrading your fuel system anyway so this won't be an issue.<br /> As the geometry on how the charger is mounted (compared to stock) some custom pipe work to the inlet and outlet would be required to suit your application.<br /> <br /> '''Connecting a belt:'''<br /> K series motors use a &quot;V belt&quot; and most SC's (including Toyota SC12/14) use a &quot;Ribbed belt&quot;, obviously this poses an issue of getting drive to the SC. You either need to convert the pulley on the SC to V-belt, or convert the existing K belt arangement to ribbed-belt. Another thing to bare in mind when choosing this setup is the fact that the Toyota SC12/14 have a electronically activated clutch pulley. If you want to retain this clutch (to be able to de-activate the SC) you'll have to get a bit crafty with the belt setup.<br /> As my personal experience is with turbos not chargers I'm going to PM some members here and ask how they went about the belt setups. Hopefully I'll have a run down of how to use both V-belts or ribbed-belts once I've heard back from these members.<br /> <br /> Response from Kickn5k: (V belt to S/C) I haven't changed from v/belt yet. I made a custom blower pulley in v-belt and ground out the three rivets on the STD clutch hub and then tapped pulley. To do it that way I have to bolt the pulley on first with the lock nut 4 bearing, then bolt the clutch hub onto it. This way you don't need to cut a spline in the pulley and it's also quite stable load wise which means you can run the belt a bit tighter and not damage the blower driveshaft.<br /> <br /> Response from 1jzke55: (Ribbed belt to S/C and V belts for alt &amp; water pump) We turned up the custom alloy bottom (crank) pulley so it bolts up to the front of the harmonic balancer. This way you can still use the standard V belt to run the water pump and alternator. Once that was made, bolted it up and made the blower bracket and made a little tensioner out of a couple bits i had laying around. <br /> <br /> If any member has some info on how to convert the whole pulley setup to a ribbed belt, please send me a PM with the info.<br /> <br /> '''Gearing the Supercharger:'''<br /> I've copied and pasted to below info from a post by 1JZke55:<br /> <br /> When fitting a supercharger, you should match the swept volume of the supercharger to the size of the engine. If the choice is made carefully, problems from overboosting and the required paraphenalia to solve these problems will be minimised.<br /> The supercharger will also be kept in its safe operating speed with correct selection.<br /> <br /> To choose a setup you need to know :-<br /> 1. Engine capacity<br /> 2. Maximum engine speed you will be using.<br /> 3. Boost level desired<br /> <br /> I am setting out the calcs needed for a 1200cc engine in the steps below.<br /> <br /> FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi )<br /> Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 1.2 litres x 6000 rpm = 7200 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (7200/2 = 3600 litres/min.<br /> This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost.<br /> <br /> SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio)<br /> Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure).<br /> (7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi)<br /> Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure.<br /> <br /> THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost)<br /> <br /> Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 3600 litres/min X 1.476 = 5313.6 litres/min for 7Psi boost.<br /> <br /> To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :-<br /> 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev)<br /> 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??)<br /> 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10-12Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??)<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed)<br /> Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.5 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required.<br /> 5313.6/1.5 litres = 3542.4 rpm for the SC14.<br /> 5313.6/1 litre = 5313.6 rpm Eaton M62<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio)<br /> Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is<br /> 3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904.<br /> <br /> EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO<br /> If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min<br /> <br /> Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi.<br /> <br /> if you want to get even more technical the sc14 is actually 1.42<br /> <br /> As 1JZke55 illuded to above apparently the Toyota SC12 and SC14 have teflon coated rotors and don't like being spun to about 14psi. I'm not sure if this is a shaft speed or general pressure problem but apparently the teflon can chip/flake off the rotors and cause a loss of compression. Hopefully somebody will read this and give us a definative answer!!!??? PM me (Taz_RX) if you do.<br /> <br /> I have been PM'ed a response on this now and have been told: The rotors in the SC12/14 chargers are actually hollow. When spun above 12,000rpm the hollow rotors can expand causing the outsides to touch, this can then flake of the teflon coating. Info came from Toymods.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Plumbing the supercharger:'''<br /> Once you've got your supercharger mounted and you've worked out your drive ratio and pulley arangement, the next step is to look at plumbing it up. Just like a turbo you can run the SC in either &quot;Blow-through&quot; or &quot;Draw/suck-through&quot;. Draw-through seems to be the most popular way on K series. This may be due to the fact that you don't need to ensure the SC has carbon seals like you do with a turbo to run fuel through it. Any carby that will provide adequate fuel/air flow (beit downdraft or sidedraft) for the application can be used in draw-through. You just need to make some sort of custom inlet to the charger so you can have a carby mounted off it. If this is the method used then the outlet of the SC simply needs to be plumbed into the intake manifold.<br /> For blow-through the inlet out the charger just needs some sort of air filtraion, and then the outlet is plumbed into the carby. Please see below for more info on blow-through carby setups.</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3703 2010-05-06T06:20:55Z

<p>Taz rx: /* Superchargers: */</p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there are two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> == Superchargers: ==<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other SC's like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> <br /> '''How to mount it:'''<br /> The easiest way to hang a SC off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can mount the charger in the position normally occupied by the A/C pump. As the mechanical fuel pump attaches to the block inside the A/C bracket, removing the pump and blocking its mounting point with a plate would be required. You should be upgrading your fuel system anyway so this won't be an issue.<br /> As the geometry on how the charger is mounted (compared to stock) some custom pipe work to the inlet and outlet would be required to suit your application.<br /> <br /> '''Connecting a belt:'''<br /> K series motors use a &quot;V belt&quot; and most SC's (including Toyota SC12/14) use a &quot;Ribbed belt&quot;, obviously this poses an issue of getting drive to the SC. You either need to convert the pulley on the SC to V-belt, or convert the existing K belt arangement to ribbed-belt. Another thing to bare in mind when chossing this setup is the fact that the Toyota SC12/14 have a electronically activated clutch pulley. If you want to retain this clutch (to be able to de-activate the SC) you'll have to get a bit crafty with the belt setup.<br /> As my personal experience is with turbos not chargers I'm going to PM some members here and ask how they went about the belt setups. Hopefully I'll have a run down of how to use both V-belts or ribbed-belts once I've heard back from these members.<br /> <br /> '''Gearing the Supercharger:'''<br /> I've copied and pasted to below info from a post by 1JZke55:<br /> <br /> When fitting a supercharger, you should match the swept volume of the supercharger to the size of the engine. If the choice is made carefully, problems from overboosting and the required paraphenalia to solve these problems will be minimised.<br /> The supercharger will also be kept in its safe operating speed with correct selection.<br /> <br /> To choose a setup you need to know :-<br /> 1. Engine capacity<br /> 2. Maximum engine speed you will be using.<br /> 3. Boost level desired<br /> <br /> I am setting out the calcs needed for a 1200cc engine in the steps below.<br /> <br /> FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi )<br /> Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 1.2 litres x 6000 rpm = 7200 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (7200/2 = 3600 litres/min.<br /> This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost.<br /> <br /> SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio)<br /> Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure).<br /> (7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi)<br /> Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure.<br /> <br /> THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost)<br /> <br /> Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 3600 litres/min X 1.476 = 5313.6 litres/min for 7Psi boost.<br /> <br /> To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :-<br /> 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev)<br /> 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??)<br /> 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10-12Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??)<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed)<br /> Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.5 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required.<br /> 5313.6/1.5 litres = 3542.4 rpm for the SC14.<br /> 5313.6/1 litre = 5313.6 rpm Eaton M62<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio)<br /> Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is<br /> 3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904.<br /> <br /> EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO<br /> If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min<br /> <br /> Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi.<br /> <br /> if you want to get even more technical the sc14 is actually 1.42<br /> <br /> As 1JZke55 illuded to above apparently the Toyota SC12 and SC14 have teflon coated rotors and don't like being spun to about 14psi. I'm not sure if this is a shaft speed or general pressure problem but apparently the teflon can chip/flake off the rotors and cause a loss of compression. Hopefully somebody will read this and give us a definative answer!!!??? PM me (Taz_RX) if you do.<br /> <br /> '''Plumbing the supercharger:'''<br /> Once you've got your supercharger mounted and you've worked out your drive ratio and pulley arangement, the next step is to look at plumbing it up. Just like a turbo you can run the SC in either &quot;Blow-through&quot; or &quot;Draw/suck-through&quot;. Draw-through seems to be the most popular way on K series. This may be due to the fact that you don't need to ensure the SC has carbon seals like you do with a turbo to run fuel through it. Any carby that will provide adequate fuel/air flow (beit downdraft or sidedraft) for the application can be used in draw-through. You just need to make some sort of custom inlet to the charger can have a carby mounted off it. If this is the method used then the outlet of the SC simply needs to be plumbed into the intake manifold.</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3702 2010-05-06T03:59:52Z

<p>Taz rx: /* Superchargers: */</p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there are two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> == Superchargers: ==<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other SC's like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> <br /> '''How to mount it:'''<br /> The easiest way to hang a SC off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can mount the charger in the position normally occupied by the A/C pump. As the mechanical fuel pump attaches to the block inside the A/C bracket, removing the pump and blocking its mounting point with a plate would be required. You should be upgrading your fuel system anyway so this won't be an issue.<br /> As the geometry on how the charger is mounted (compared to stock) some custom pipe work to the inlet and outlet would be required to suit your application.<br /> <br /> '''Connecting a belt:'''<br /> K series motors use a &quot;V belt&quot; and most SC's (including Toyota SC12/14) use a &quot;Ribbed belt&quot;, obviously this poses an issue of getting drive to the SC. You either need to convert the pulley on the SC to V-belt, or convert the existing K belt arangement to ribbed-belt. Another thing to bare in mind when chossing this setup is the fact that the Toyota SC12/14 have a electronically activated clutch pulley. If you want to retain this clutch (to be able to de-activate the SC) you'll have to get a bit crafty with the belt setup.<br /> As my personal experience is with turbos not chargers I'm going to PM some members here and ask how they went about the belt setups. Hopefully I'll have a run down of how to use both V-belts or ribbed-belts once I've heard back from these members.<br /> <br /> '''Gearing the Supercharger:'''<br /> I've copied and pasted to below info from a post by 1JZke55:<br /> <br /> When fitting a supercharger, you should match the swept volume of the supercharger to the size of the engine. If the choice is made carefully, problems from overboosting and the required paraphenalia to solve these problems will be minimised.<br /> The supercharger will also be kept in its safe operating speed with correct selection.<br /> <br /> To choose a setup you need to know :-<br /> 1. Engine capacity<br /> 2. Maximum engine speed you will be using.<br /> 3. Boost level desired<br /> <br /> I am setting out the calcs needed for a 1200cc engine in the steps below.<br /> <br /> FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi )<br /> Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 1.2 litres x 6000 rpm = 7200 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (7200/2 = 3600 litres/min.<br /> This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost.<br /> <br /> SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio)<br /> Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure).<br /> (7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi)<br /> Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure.<br /> <br /> THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost)<br /> <br /> Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 3600 litres/min X 1.476 = 5313.6 litres/min for 7Psi boost.<br /> <br /> To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :-<br /> 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev)<br /> 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??)<br /> 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10-12Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??)<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed)<br /> Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.5 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required.<br /> 5313.6/1.5 litres = 3542.4 rpm for the SC14.<br /> 5313.6/1 litre = 5313.6 rpm Eaton M62<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio)<br /> Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is<br /> 3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904.<br /> <br /> EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO<br /> If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min<br /> <br /> Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi.<br /> <br /> if you want to get even more technical the sc14 is actually 1.42<br /> <br /> As 1JZke55 illuded to above apparently the Toyota SC12 and SC14 have teflon coated rotors and don't like being spun to about 14psi. I'm not sure if this is a shaft speed or general pressure problem but apparently the teflon can chip/flake off the rotors and cause a loss of compression. Hopefully somebody will read this and give us a definative answer!!!??? PM me (Taz_RX) if you do.</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3701 2010-05-06T03:19:04Z

<p>Taz rx: /* Superchargers: */</p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there are two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> == Superchargers: ==<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other SC's like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> <br /> '''How to mount it:'''<br /> The easiest way to hang a SC off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can mount the charger in the position normally occupied by the A/C pump. As the mechanical fuel pump attaches to the block inside the A/C bracket, removing the pump and blocking its mounting point with a plate would be required. You should be upgrading your fuel system anyway so this won't be an issue.<br /> As the geometry on how the charger is mounted (compared to stock) some custom pipe work to the inlet and outlet would be required to suit your application.<br /> <br /> '''Connecting a belt:'''<br /> K series motors use a &quot;V belt&quot; and most SC's (including Toyota SC12/14) use a &quot;Ribbed belt&quot;, obviously this poses an issue of getting drive to the SC. You either need to convert the pulley on the SC to V-belt, or convert the existing K belt arangement to ribbed-belt. Another thing to bare in mind when chossing this setup is the fact that the Toyota SC12/14 have a electronically activated clutch pulley. If you want to retain this clutch (to be able to de-activate the SC) you'll have to get a bit crafty with the belt setup.<br /> As my personal experience is with turbos not chargers I'm going to PM some members here and ask how they went about the belt setups. Hopefully I'll have a run down of how to use both V-belts or ribbed-belts once I've heard back from these members.<br /> <br /> '''Gearing the Supercharger:'''<br /> I've copied and pasted to below info from a post by 1JZke55:<br /> <br /> When fitting a supercharger, you should match the swept volume of the supercharger to the size of the engine. If the choice is made carefully, problems from overboosting and the required paraphenalia to solve these problems will be minimised.<br /> The supercharger will also be kept in its safe operating speed with correct selection.<br /> <br /> To choose a setup you need to know :-<br /> 1. Engine capacity<br /> 2. Maximum engine speed you will be using.<br /> 3. Boost level desired<br /> <br /> I am setting out the calcs needed for a 1200cc engine in the steps below.<br /> <br /> FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi )<br /> Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 1.2 litres x 6000 rpm = 7200 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (7200/2 = 3600 litres/min.<br /> This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost.<br /> <br /> SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio)<br /> Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure).<br /> (7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi)<br /> Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure.<br /> <br /> THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost)<br /> <br /> Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 3600 litres/min X 1.476 = 5313.6 litres/min for 7Psi boost.<br /> <br /> To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :-<br /> 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev)<br /> 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??)<br /> 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10-12Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??)<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed)<br /> Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.5 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required.<br /> 5313.6/1.5 litres = 3542.4 rpm for the SC14.<br /> 5313.6/1 litre = 5313.6 rpm Eaton M62<br /> <br /> CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio)<br /> Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 1200 @ 7psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is<br /> 3542.4 /6000 rpm = 0.5904.<br /> <br /> EXAMPLE OF CHANGE OF DRIVE RATIO<br /> If the 1200 cc engines supercharger pulley ratio is increased to 0.75 using the 1.5 ltr/rev SC14 charger, the volume of air produced when running to 6000 would be 6000 x 0.75 x 1.5 litres =6750 litres/min<br /> <br /> Boost produced would be 6750 litres/3600 litres (at 0 boost) =1.875 boost ratio For Psi boost ((1.875 x 14.7) - 14.7)=12.86 Psi.<br /> <br /> if you want to get even more technical the sc14 is actually 1.42</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3700 2010-05-06T03:11:47Z

<p>Taz rx: /* Superchargers: */</p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there are two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> == Superchargers: ==<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other SC's like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> <br /> '''How to mount it:'''<br /> The easiest way to hang a SC off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can mount the charger in the position normally occupied by the A/C pump. As the mechanical fuel pump attaches to the block inside the A/C bracket, removing the pump and blocking its mounting point with a plate would be required. You should be upgrading your fuel system anyway so this won't be an issue.<br /> As the geometry on how the charger is mounted (compared to stock) some custom pipe work to the inlet and outlet would be required to suit your application.<br /> <br /> '''Connecting a belt:'''<br /> K series motors use a &quot;V belt&quot; and most SC's (including Toyota SC12/14) use a &quot;Ribbed belt&quot;, obviously this poses an issue of getting drive to the SC. You either need to convert the pulley on the SC to V-belt, or convert the existing K belt arangement to ribbed-belt. Another thing to bare in mind when chossing this setup is the fact that the Toyota SC12/14 have a electronically activated clutch pulley. If you want to retain this clutch (to be able to de-activate the SC) you'll have to get a bit crafty with the belt setup.<br /> As my personal experience is with turbos not chargers I'm going to PM some members here and ask how they went about the belt setups. Hopefully I'll have a run down of how to use both V-belts or ribbed-belts once I've heard back from these members.</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3699 2010-05-06T02:42:58Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there are two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> == Superchargers: ==<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other superchargers like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> <br /> '''How to mount it:'''<br /> The easiest way to hang a supercharger off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can mount the charger in the position normally occupied by the A/C pump. As the mechanical fuel pump attaches to the block inside the A/C bracket, removing the pump and blocking its mounting point with a plate would be required. You should be upgrading your fuel system anyway so this won't be an issue.</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3698 2010-05-06T02:30:36Z

<p>Taz rx: /* Superchargers: */</p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there is two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> == Superchargers: ==<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other superchargers like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> <br /> '''How to mount it:'''<br /> The easiest way to hang a supercharger off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can mount the charger in the position normally occupied by the A/C pump. As the mechanical fuel pump attaches to the block inside the A/C bracket, removing the pump and blocking its mounting point with a plate would be required. You should be upgrading your fuel system anyway so this won't be an issue.</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3697 2010-05-06T02:27:33Z

<p>Taz rx: /* Superchargers: */</p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there is two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> == Superchargers: ==<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other superchargers like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> <br /> '''How to mount it:'''<br /> The easiest way to hang a supercharger off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3696 2010-05-06T02:26:45Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there is two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> == Superchargers: ==<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other superchargers like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> The easiest way to hang a supercharger off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3695 2010-05-06T02:25:23Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there is two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> '''Superchargers:'''<br /> <br /> '''What to use:'''<br /> The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other superchargers like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> The easiest way to hang a supercharger off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3694 2010-05-06T02:23:14Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)<br /> <br /> <br /> Firstly, obviously there is two way to build a &quot;Boosted K motor&quot; by using a turbo or a supercharger. For deffinitions or how each work (if you don't know and are intersted) please do a wiki/google search.<br /> <br /> [b]Superchargers:[/b]<br /> What to use: The most common superchargers used on K motor are Toyota SC12 (4AGZE) and SC14 (1GGZE) units. These are readily available from import motors, wreckers etc and are quite reasonable priced. Others have used other superchargers like the AMR300 or AMR500 however both of these units are quite smaller compared to the SC chargers. This isn't to say they won't work though, its just by the time you get up in the revs a bit the small capacity of the charger may restrict top end flow. At the other end of the scale you could use a bigger charger like and Eaton M series (M90 from S pac supercharged commodore for example) which geared correctly could give great top end flow, however some boost lag would be expected in the bottom end of the rev range. Choosing the size of the charger, and the gearing used is just like picking a cam shaft or turbo A/R ratio. It really depends on what you want to use the car for and where you want your power range.<br /> The easiest way to hang a supercharger off a K motor is to source yourself an air-conditioning bracket off any K motor. With a few minor mods to the bracket and/or the charger itself you can</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors&diff=3693 2010-05-06T01:58:19Z

<p>Taz rx: Created page with &#039;Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors. This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to comple…&#039;</p> <hr /> <div>Due to popular demand I am going to endevour to write up a new section here for boosted K motors.<br /> <br /> This is going to be a work in progress and may take me a little while to complete it so please bare with me while I get it done. Once its completed this message will be deleted.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> Si (Taz_RX)</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page_Old&diff=3692 2010-05-06T01:55:23Z

<p>Taz rx: /* K Series */</p> <hr /> <div>'''Welcome to the Rollaclub FAQ'''<br /> <br /> This FAQ Has been migrated to WIKI format from the Oldcorollas FAQ, maintained by Super Jamie.<br /> <br /> Further Discussion of any articles here may be made on the:<br /> [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/oldcorollas/ Old Corollas Yahoo Group]<br /> and<br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/ Rollaclub Messageboard]<br /> <br /> <br /> = Tech =<br /> <br /> == Engine ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === K Series ===<br /> <br /> ==== General Information ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Alternator|Alternator]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Camshaft|Camshaft]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Carburettor|Carburettor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Heads|Cylinder Heads]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/EFI|Electronic Fuel Injection]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Emissions System|Emissions System]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Exhaust|Exhaust]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Flywheel|Flywheel]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Filter|Fuel Filter]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Pump|Fuel Pump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor|How To Build A Tough 'K' Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted K motors|Boosted K motors]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/How To Fix K Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)|How To Fix 'K' Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/K|KE1x Series 'K' Engine Specific Info]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/Mounts|Mounts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distrib|Nippon Denso Distributor Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Oil Pump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Starter Motor|Starter Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Sump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Torque_Settings|Torque Settings]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve Clearances|Valve Clearances]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD Uprite Kit|TRD Upright Kit]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD|How to build a TRD spec Upright motor!]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4kstall|What Is A Fuel Solenoid?]]<br /> <br /> ==== K (1077cc) ====<br /> <br /> ==== 2K (993cc) ====<br /> <br /> ==== 3K (1166cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Bigport Head|Bigport Head]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Factory Twin Carbs|Factory Twin Carbs]]<br /> <br /> ==== 4K (1290cc) ====<br /> <br /> '''------------4K-C'''<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-C/4K-C Emission System Diagram|4K-C Emission System Diagram]]<br /> <br /> '''------------4K-E'''<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Injectors|Injectors]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Rocker Cover|Rocker Cover]]<br /> <br /> ==== 5K (1496cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/5K-C/5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion|5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion]]<br /> <br /> ==== 7K (1812cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes|Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes]]<br /> <br /> === A Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/A-Series Engine FAQ|A-Series Engine FAQ]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Alternator Wiring Diagram|Alternator Wiring Diagram]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Cooling Guide|Cooling Guide]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Crossmembers|Crossmembers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/ECU Pinouts|ECU Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Electronic 4AC dizzy|Electronic 4AC dizzy]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/External Thermostat|External Thermostat]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Heads|Heads]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Injectors|Injectors]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank|Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Internals|Internals]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rear Water Outlet|Rear Water Outlet]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rebuilding Your 4ag(z)e|Rebuilding Your 4AG(Z)E]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Replacing Your Timing Belt|Replacing Your Timing Belt]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Toyota Part Numbers|Toyota Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/TVIS|What Is TVIS?]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Wiring Diagrams|Wiring Diagrams]]<br /> <br /> [[Removing the Air Bypass Valve on a 4agze]]<br /> <br /> === S Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Head|Head]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/EFI|EFI]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]<br /> <br /> === T Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/T Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/T Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> === E Series ===<br /> [[Tech:Engine/E Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> == [[:Category:Fuel System | Fuel System]] ==<br /> <br /> [[EFI]]<br /> <br /> [[Fuel]]<br /> <br /> [[How To Set Up Your Fuel System]]<br /> <br /> == [[:Category: Drivetrain | Drivetrain]] ==<br /> <br /> (In logical order of drivetrain after the flywheel)<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Drivetrain/Bellhousing|Bellhousing]]<br /> <br /> [[Clutch]]<br /> <br /> [[Automatic Gearbox]]<br /> <br /> [[Manual Gearbox]]<br /> <br /> * [[Removing Spigot Bearings]]<br /> <br /> [[Tailshaft]]<br /> <br /> [[Differential Gears]]<br /> <br /> [[Differential Housing]]<br /> <br /> [[Axles]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> --[[User:Grimwolge|Grimwolge]] 12:46, 18 Jul 2005 (EST)<br /> <br /> == Suspension ==<br /> <br /> [[Rear Leaf Springs]]<br /> <br /> [[Stud Pattern]]<br /> <br /> [[KE55 Front Strut Upgrades]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === KE1x Suspension ===<br /> <br /> [[Replacing front strut inserts on your KE1x]]<br /> <br /> [[Lowering KE1x Front using KE2x parts]]<br /> <br /> == Brakes ==<br /> <br /> [[Front Disc Brakes]]<br /> <br /> [[Rear Disc Brakes]]<br /> <br /> == Electrical ==<br /> <br /> [[Alternator]]<br /> <br /> [[Dash Cluster]]<br /> <br /> [[Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Headlights]]<br /> <br /> [[Relays]]<br /> <br /> [[Starter Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Spark Plug Types]]<br /> <br /> [[Tachometer]]<br /> <br /> [[Thermo Fan]]<br /> <br /> [[Wiring Diagrams]]<br /> <br /> == Emission Systems ==<br /> <br /> [[Emission System Abbreviations|Emission System Abbreviations]]<br /> <br /> [[Emission System Components|Emission System Components]]<br /> <br /> == Reference Material ==<br /> <br /> [[Corolla Model Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Homologations]] - Listing of FIA Homologated Corollas for Group 1-4 and Group A<br /> <br /> [[Books]]<br /> <br /> Codes - Engine, Body, Axle<br /> <br /> Service<br /> <br /> Torque Specs<br /> <br /> * [[Reference:What Carb| What Carb is that ?]]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/AE86Manual.pdf.gz AE86 Manual]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/KE70_Chassis_Electrical_System.pdf KE70 Chassis Electrical System]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/Starlet_Manual_Supplement_&amp;_Revisions.zip KP61 Starlet Manual includes 4KE EFI]<br /> <br /> * [http://home.onthenet.com.au/~paulp/Blacktop/ Blacktop 4AGE Manual]<br /> <br /> = Maintenance =<br /> <br /> == Body ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Body/Fixing Rust| Fixing Rust]]<br /> <br /> == Engine ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising| Decarbonising an engine]]<br /> <br /> == Suspension ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Suspension/Control Arm Bushes| Control Arm Bushes]]<br /> <br /> = Upgrades =<br /> [[Upgrades:Ke55 boot release|Ke55 Boot Release]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71| Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Hilux Diff Conversion| Hilux Diff Conversion Into KE55]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch|KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 K50 gearbox into 3K powered KE20| KE70 K50 into 3K powered KE20]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring|KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Nikki Carb onto K motor|Nikki carb onto K motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Sigma Control Arms| Sigma Control Arms]]<br /> <br /> == Engineering your Car ==<br /> <br /> ===[[Overview]]===<br /> <br /> [[South Australia]]<br /> <br /> [[Victoria]]<br /> <br /> = History =<br /> [[History:60s |The '60s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:70s |The '70s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:80s |The '80s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:90s |The '90s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:Racing | Racing]]<br /> <br /> RWD corolla history <br /> http://reocities.com/COLOSSEUM/4883/crwd.html<br /> <br /> = Related =<br /> [[Car Movies]]<br /> <br /> ----<br /> the bit where jamie can edit the main page is cool :D</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve_Clearances&diff=3688 2010-01-25T03:08:58Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>The valve clearances for 3/4k for adjustable lifters can be set either when the engine is cold or hot. Both clearance are below in Thousands of an inch and mm.<br /> <br /> COLD:<br /> <br /> Exhaust valve:<br /> <br /> 0.009in or 0.23mm<br /> <br /> Inlet Valve:<br /> <br /> 0.006in or 0.15mm<br /> <br /> <br /> HOT:<br /> <br /> Exhaust valve:<br /> <br /> 0.012 or 0.30mm<br /> <br /> Inlet valve:<br /> <br /> 0.008 or 0.20mm in<br /> <br /> <br /> These are for motors with STOCK cams. When upgrading to a bigger aftermarket camshaft consult you cam grinder for new valve clearnaces. Some cams shops even list them in their on-line catalogues.<br /> <br /> 5k's, having hydraulic lifters do not have an adjustable valve clearance. If converting to solids use the above 3/4k specs (stock cams) or consult your cam grinder (for aftermarket).<br /> <br /> When setting the valve clearances always make sure the cylinder you are working on is on its compression stroke. This is easy to do: With the tappet cover off turn the motor over (spanner on crank pulley) until you see the appropiate inlet valve open, keep turning till it closes and then give it another 1/4 turn or so. DON'T go so far that you start to open up the exhaust valve, you basically want it half way between the inlet closing, and exhaust opening. At this point both rockers should be &quot;loose&quot;. Adjust both tappet and move onto the next cylinder.<br /> <br /> After replacing a head gasket, its not a bad idea to check and re-adjust the tappets if required after around 500km.<br /> <br /> The only tools required are:<br /> <br /> 14mm socket or spanner (to remove tappet cover nuts)<br /> <br /> Feeler guages<br /> <br /> 12mm ring spanner<br /> <br /> Medium sized flat head screw driver<br /> <br /> You can also get proper valve adjustment tools which are basically the ring spanner and screw driver combined in one unit. They are no way manditory, but do make the job a lot easier. Here is one pictured below.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Tools.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Article by Taz_Rx</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD&diff=3680 2009-10-12T00:34:31Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>I'll let TRD do the talking!!!<br /> <br /> http://www.vhtracing.com/TRD_K_ENGINE_MANUAL.pdf<br /> <br /> Link by Taz_Rx</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD&diff=3679 2009-10-12T00:33:32Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>I'll let TRD do the talking!!!<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD Uprite Kit|TRD Upright Kit]]<br /> <br /> Link by Taz_Rx</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page_Old&diff=3678 2009-10-12T00:32:46Z

<p>Taz rx: /* General Information */</p> <hr /> <div>'''Welcome to the Rollaclub FAQ'''<br /> <br /> This FAQ Has been migrated to WIKI format from the Oldcorollas FAQ, maintained by Super Jamie.<br /> <br /> Further Discussion of any articles here may be made on the:<br /> [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/oldcorollas/ Old Corollas Yahoo Group]<br /> and<br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/ Rollaclub Messageboard]<br /> <br /> <br /> = Tech =<br /> <br /> == Engine ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === K Series ===<br /> <br /> ==== General Information ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Alternator|Alternator]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Camshaft|Camshaft]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Carburettor|Carburettor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Heads|Cylinder Heads]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/EFI|Electronic Fuel Injection]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Emissions System|Emissions System]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Exhaust|Exhaust]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Flywheel|Flywheel]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Filter|Fuel Filter]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Pump|Fuel Pump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor|How To Build A Tough 'K' Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/How To Fix K Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)|How To Fix 'K' Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/K|KE1x Series 'K' Engine Specific Info]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/Mounts|Mounts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distrib|Nippon Denso Distributor Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Oil Pump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Starter Motor|Starter Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Sump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Torque_Settings|Torque Settings]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve Clearances|Valve Clearances]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD Uprite Kit|TRD Upright Kit]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD|How to build a TRD spec Upright motor!]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4kstall|What Is A Fuel Solenoid?]]<br /> <br /> ==== K (1077cc) ====<br /> <br /> ==== 2K (993cc) ====<br /> <br /> ==== 3K (1166cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Bigport Head|Bigport Head]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Factory Twin Carbs|Factory Twin Carbs]]<br /> <br /> ==== 4K (1290cc) ====<br /> <br /> '''------------4K-C'''<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-C/4K-C Emission System Diagram|4K-C Emission System Diagram]]<br /> <br /> '''------------4K-E'''<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Injectors|Injectors]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Rocker Cover|Rocker Cover]]<br /> <br /> ==== 5K (1496cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/5K-C/5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion|5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion]]<br /> <br /> ==== 7K (1812cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes|Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes]]<br /> <br /> === A Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/A-Series Engine FAQ|A-Series Engine FAQ]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Alternator Wiring Diagram|Alternator Wiring Diagram]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Cooling Guide|Cooling Guide]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Crossmembers|Crossmembers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/ECU Pinouts|ECU Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Electronic 4AC dizzy|Electronic 4AC dizzy]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/External Thermostat|External Thermostat]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Heads|Heads]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Injectors|Injectors]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank|Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Internals|Internals]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rear Water Outlet|Rear Water Outlet]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rebuilding Your 4ag(z)e|Rebuilding Your 4AG(Z)E]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Replacing Your Timing Belt|Replacing Your Timing Belt]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Toyota Part Numbers|Toyota Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/TVIS|What Is TVIS?]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Wiring Diagrams|Wiring Diagrams]]<br /> <br /> [[Removing the Air Bypass Valve on a 4agze]]<br /> <br /> === S Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Head|Head]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/EFI|EFI]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]<br /> <br /> === T Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/T Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/T Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> === E Series ===<br /> [[Tech:Engine/E Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> == [[:Category:Fuel System | Fuel System]] ==<br /> <br /> [[EFI]]<br /> <br /> [[Fuel]]<br /> <br /> [[How To Set Up Your Fuel System]]<br /> <br /> == [[:Category: Drivetrain | Drivetrain]] ==<br /> <br /> (In logical order of drivetrain after the flywheel)<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Drivetrain/Bellhousing|Bellhousing]]<br /> <br /> [[Clutch]]<br /> <br /> [[Automatic Gearbox]]<br /> <br /> [[Manual Gearbox]]<br /> <br /> * [[Removing Spigot Bearings]]<br /> <br /> [[Tailshaft]]<br /> <br /> [[Differential Gears]]<br /> <br /> [[Differential Housing]]<br /> <br /> [[Axles]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> --[[User:Grimwolge|Grimwolge]] 12:46, 18 Jul 2005 (EST)<br /> <br /> == Suspension ==<br /> <br /> [[Rear Leaf Springs]]<br /> <br /> [[Stud Pattern]]<br /> <br /> [[KE55 Front Strut Upgrades]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === KE1x Suspension ===<br /> <br /> [[Replacing front strut inserts on your KE1x]]<br /> <br /> [[Lowering KE1x Front using KE2x parts]]<br /> <br /> == Brakes ==<br /> <br /> [[Front Disc Brakes]]<br /> <br /> [[Rear Disc Brakes]]<br /> <br /> == Electrical ==<br /> <br /> [[Alternator]]<br /> <br /> [[Dash Cluster]]<br /> <br /> [[Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Headlights]]<br /> <br /> [[Relays]]<br /> <br /> [[Starter Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Spark Plug Types]]<br /> <br /> [[Tachometer]]<br /> <br /> [[Thermo Fan]]<br /> <br /> [[Wiring Diagrams]]<br /> <br /> == Emission Systems ==<br /> <br /> [[Emission System Abbreviations|Emission System Abbreviations]]<br /> <br /> [[Emission System Components|Emission System Components]]<br /> <br /> == Reference Material ==<br /> <br /> [[Corolla Model Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Homologations]] - Listing of FIA Homologated Corollas for Group 1-4 and Group A<br /> <br /> [[Books]]<br /> <br /> Codes - Engine, Body, Axle<br /> <br /> Service<br /> <br /> Torque Specs<br /> <br /> * [[Reference:What Carb| What Carb is that ?]]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/AE86Manual.pdf.gz AE86 Manual]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/KE70_Chassis_Electrical_System.pdf KE70 Chassis Electrical System]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/Starlet_Manual_Supplement_&amp;_Revisions.zip KP61 Starlet Manual includes 4KE EFI]<br /> <br /> * [http://home.onthenet.com.au/~paulp/Blacktop/ Blacktop 4AGE Manual]<br /> <br /> = Maintenance =<br /> <br /> == Body ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Body/Fixing Rust| Fixing Rust]]<br /> <br /> == Engine ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising| Decarbonising an engine]]<br /> <br /> == Suspension ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Suspension/Control Arm Bushes| Control Arm Bushes]]<br /> <br /> = Upgrades =<br /> [[Upgrades:Ke55 boot release|Ke55 Boot Release]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71| Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Hilux Diff Conversion| Hilux Diff Conversion Into KE55]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch|KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 K50 gearbox into 3K powered KE20| KE70 K50 into 3K powered KE20]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring|KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Nikki Carb onto K motor|Nikki carb onto K motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Sigma Control Arms| Sigma Control Arms]]<br /> <br /> == Engineering your Car ==<br /> <br /> ===[[Overview]]===<br /> <br /> [[South Australia]]<br /> <br /> [[Victoria]]<br /> <br /> = History =<br /> [[History:60s |The '60s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:70s |The '70s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:80s |The '80s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:90s |The '90s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:Racing | Racing]]<br /> <br /> = Related =<br /> [[Car Movies]]<br /> <br /> ----<br /> the bit where jamie can edit the main page is cool :D</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve_Clearances&diff=3677 2009-09-17T05:25:12Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>The valve clearances for 3/4k for adjustable lifters are:<br /> <br /> .008&quot; &amp; .012&quot; when hot and .005&quot; &amp; .009&quot; when cold (thou - thousanths of an inch)<br /> <br /> These are for motors with STOCK cams. When upgrading to a bigger aftermarket camshaft consult you cam grinder for new valve clearnaces. Some cams shops even list them in their on-line catalogues.<br /> <br /> 5k's, having hydraulic lifters do not have an adjustable valve clearance. If converting to solids use the above 3/4k specs (stock cams) or consult your cam grinder (for aftermarket).<br /> <br /> When setting the valve clearances always make sure the cylinder you are working on is on its compression stroke. This is easy to do: With the tappet cover off turn the motor over (spanner on crank pulley) until you see the appropiate inlet valve open, keep turning till it closes and then give it another 1/4 turn or so. DON'T go so far that you start to open up the exhaust valve, you basically want it half way between the inlet closing, and exhaust opening. At this point both rockers should be &quot;loose&quot;. Adjust both tappet and move onto the next cylinder.<br /> <br /> Aftre replacing a head gasket, its not a bad idea to check and re-adjust the tappets if required after around 500km.<br /> <br /> The only tools required are:<br /> <br /> 14mm socket or spanner (to remove tappet cover nuts)<br /> <br /> Feeler guages<br /> <br /> 12mm ring spanner<br /> <br /> Medium sized flat head screw driver<br /> <br /> You can also get proper valve adjustment tools which are basically the ring spanner and screw driver combined in one unit. They are no way manditory, but do make the job a lot easier. Here is one pictured below.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Tools.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Article by Taz_Rx</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve_Clearances&diff=3676 2009-09-17T05:23:31Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>The valve clearances for 3/4k for adjustable lifters are:<br /> <br /> .008&quot; &amp; .012&quot; when hot and .005&quot; &amp; .009&quot; when cold (thou - thousanths of an inch)<br /> <br /> These are for motors with STOCK cams. When upgrading to a bigger aftermarket camshaft consult you cam grinder for new valve clearnaces. Some cams shops even list them in their on-line catalogues.<br /> <br /> 5k's, having hydraulic lifters do not have an adjustable valve clearance. If converting to solids use the above 3/4k specs (stock cams) or consult your cam grinder (for aftermarket).<br /> <br /> When setting the valve clearances always make sure the cylinder you are working on is on its compression stroke. This is easy to do: With the tappet cover off turn the motor over (spanner on crank pulley) until you see the appropiate inlet valve open, keep turning till it closes and then give it another 1/4 turn or so. DON'T go so far that you start to open up the exhaust valve, you basically want it half way between the inlet closing, and exhaust opening. At this point both rockers should be &quot;loose&quot;. Adjust both tappet and move onto the next cylinder.<br /> <br /> Aftre replacing a head gasket, its not a bad idea to check and re-adjust the tappets if required after around 500km.<br /> <br /> The only tools required are:<br /> 14mm socket or spanner (to remove tappet cover nuts)<br /> Feeler guages<br /> 12mm ring spanner<br /> Medium sized flat head screw driver<br /> <br /> You can also get proper valve adjustment tools which are basically the ring spanner and screw driver combined in one unit. They are no way manditory, but do make the job a lot easier. Here is one pictured below.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Tools.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Article by Taz_Rx</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve_Clearances&diff=3675 2009-09-17T05:23:16Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>The valve clearances for 3/4k for adjustable lifters are:<br /> <br /> .008&quot; &amp; .012&quot; when hot and .005&quot; &amp; .009&quot; when cold (thou - thousanths of an inch)<br /> <br /> These are for motors with STOCK cams. When upgrading to a bigger aftermarket camshaft consult you cam grinder for new valve clearnaces. Some cams shops even list them in their on-line catalogues.<br /> <br /> 5k's, having hydraulic lifters do not have an adjustable valve clearance. If converting to solids use the above 3/4k specs (stock cams) or consult your cam grinder (for aftermarket).<br /> <br /> When setting the valve clearances always make sure the cylinder you are working on is on its compression stroke. This is easy to do: With the tappet cover off turn the motor over (spanner on crank pulley) until you see the appropiate inlet valve open, keep turning till it closes and then give it another 1/4 turn or so. DON'T go so far that you start to open up the exhaust valve, you basically want it half way between the inlet closing, and exhaust opening. At this point both rockers should be &quot;loose&quot;. Adjust both tappet and move onto the next cylinder.<br /> <br /> Aftre replacing a head gasket, its not a bad idea to check and re-adjust the tappets if required after around 500km.<br /> <br /> The only tools required are:<br /> 14mm socket or spanner (to remove tappet cover nuts)<br /> Feeler guages<br /> 12mm ring spanner<br /> Medium sized flat head screw driver<br /> <br /> You can also get proper valve adjustment tools which are basically the ring spanner and screw driver combined in one unit. They are no way manditory, but do make the job a lot easier. Here is one pictured below.<br /> [[Image:Tools.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Article by Taz_Rx</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve_Clearances&diff=3674 2009-09-17T05:22:05Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>The valve clearances for 3/4k for adjustable lifters are:<br /> <br /> .008&quot; &amp; .012&quot; when hot and .005&quot; &amp; .009&quot; when cold (thou - thousanths of an inch)<br /> <br /> These are for motors with STOCK cams. When upgrading to a bigger aftermarket camshaft consult you cam grinder for new valve clearnaces. Some cams shops even list them in their on-line catalogues.<br /> <br /> 5k's, having hydraulic lifters do not have an adjustable valve clearance. If converting to solids use the above 3/4k specs (stock cams) or consult your cam grinder (for aftermarket).<br /> <br /> When setting the valve clearances always make sure the cylinder you are working on is on its compression stroke. This is easy to do: With the tappet cover off turn the motor over (spanner on crank pulley) until you see the appropiate inlet valve open, keep turning till it closes and then give it another 1/4 turn or so. DON'T go so far that you start to open up the exhaust valve, you basically want it half way between the inlet closing, and exhaust opening. At this point both rockers should be &quot;loose&quot;. Adjust both tappet and move onto the next cylinder.<br /> <br /> Aftre replacing a head gasket, its not a bad idea to check and re-adjust the tappets if required after around 500km.<br /> <br /> The only tools required are:<br /> 14mm socket or spanner (to remove tappet cover nuts)<br /> Feeler guages<br /> 12mm ring spanner<br /> Medium sized flat head screw driver<br /> <br /> You can also get proper valve adjustment tools which are basically the ring spanner and screw driver combined in one unit. They are no way manditory, but do make the job a lot easier. Here is one pictured below.<br /> Image:Tools.jpg<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Article by Taz_Rx</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Tools.jpg&diff=3673 2009-09-17T05:20:33Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve_Clearances&diff=3672 2009-09-17T05:19:41Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>The valve clearances for 3/4k for adjustable lifters are:<br /> <br /> .008&quot; &amp; .012&quot; when hot and .005&quot; &amp; .009&quot; when cold (thou - thousanths of an inch)<br /> <br /> These are for motors with STOCK cams. When upgrading to a bigger aftermarket camshaft consult you cam grinder for new valve clearnaces. Some cams shops even list them in their on-line catalogues.<br /> <br /> 5k's, having hydraulic lifters do not have an adjustable valve clearance. If converting to solids use the above 3/4k specs (stock cams) or consult your cam grinder (for aftermarket).<br /> <br /> When setting the valve clearances always make sure the cylinder you are working on is on its compression stroke. This is easy to do: With the tappet cover off turn the motor over (spanner on crank pulley) until you see the appropiate inlet valve open, keep turning till it closes and then give it another 1/4 turn or so. DON'T go so far that you start to open up the exhaust valve, you basically want it half way between the inlet closing, and exhaust opening. At this point both rockers should be &quot;loose&quot;. Adjust both tappet and move onto the next cylinder.<br /> <br /> Aftre replacing a head gasket, its not a bad idea to check and re-adjust the tappets if required after around 500km.<br /> <br /> The only tools required are:<br /> 14mm socket or spanner (to remove tappet cover nuts)<br /> Feeler guages<br /> 12mm ring spanner<br /> Medium sized flat head screw driver<br /> <br /> You can also get proper valve adjustment tools which are basically the ring spanner and screw driver combined in one unit. They are no way manditory, but do make the job a lot easier. Here is one pictured below.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Article by Taz_Rx</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page_Old&diff=3671 2009-09-17T04:57:54Z

<p>Taz rx: /* General Information */</p> <hr /> <div>'''Welcome to the Rollaclub FAQ'''<br /> <br /> This FAQ Has been migrated to WIKI format from the Oldcorollas FAQ, maintained by Super Jamie.<br /> <br /> Further Discussion of any articles here may be made on the:<br /> [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/oldcorollas/ Old Corollas Yahoo Group]<br /> and<br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/ Rollaclub Messageboard]<br /> <br /> <br /> = Tech =<br /> <br /> == Engine ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === K Series ===<br /> <br /> ==== General Information ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Alternator|Alternator]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Camshaft|Camshaft]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Carburettor|Carburettor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Heads|Cylinder Heads]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/EFI|Electronic Fuel Injection]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Emissions System|Emissions System]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Exhaust|Exhaust]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Flywheel|Flywheel]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Filter|Fuel Filter]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Pump|Fuel Pump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor|How To Build A Tough 'K' Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/How To Fix K Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)|How To Fix 'K' Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/K|KE1x Series 'K' Engine Specific Info]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/Mounts|Mounts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distrib|Nippon Denso Distributor Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Oil Pump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Starter Motor|Starter Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Sump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Torque_Settings|Torque Settings]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve Clearances|Valve Clearances]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD Uprite Kit|TRD Upright Kit]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4kstall|What Is A Fuel Solenoid?]]<br /> <br /> ==== K (1077cc) ====<br /> <br /> ==== 2K (993cc) ====<br /> <br /> ==== 3K (1166cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Bigport Head|Bigport Head]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Factory Twin Carbs|Factory Twin Carbs]]<br /> <br /> ==== 4K (1290cc) ====<br /> <br /> '''------------4K-C'''<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-C/4K-C Emission System Diagram|4K-C Emission System Diagram]]<br /> <br /> '''------------4K-E'''<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Injectors|Injectors]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Rocker Cover|Rocker Cover]]<br /> <br /> ==== 5K (1496cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/5K-C/5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion|5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion]]<br /> <br /> ==== 7K (1812cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes|Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes]]<br /> <br /> === A Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/A-Series Engine FAQ|A-Series Engine FAQ]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Alternator Wiring Diagram|Alternator Wiring Diagram]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Cooling Guide|Cooling Guide]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Crossmembers|Crossmembers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/ECU Pinouts|ECU Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Electronic 4AC dizzy|Electronic 4AC dizzy]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/External Thermostat|External Thermostat]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Heads|Heads]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Injectors|Injectors]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank|Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Internals|Internals]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rear Water Outlet|Rear Water Outlet]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rebuilding Your 4ag(z)e|Rebuilding Your 4AG(Z)E]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Replacing Your Timing Belt|Replacing Your Timing Belt]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Toyota Part Numbers|Toyota Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/TVIS|What Is TVIS?]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Wiring Diagrams|Wiring Diagrams]]<br /> <br /> [[Removing the Air Bypass Valve on a 4agze]]<br /> <br /> === S Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Head|Head]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/EFI|EFI]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]<br /> <br /> === T Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/T Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/T Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> === E Series ===<br /> [[Tech:Engine/E Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> == [[:Category:Fuel System | Fuel System]] ==<br /> <br /> [[EFI]]<br /> <br /> [[Fuel]]<br /> <br /> [[How To Set Up Your Fuel System]]<br /> <br /> == [[:Category: Drivetrain | Drivetrain]] ==<br /> <br /> (In logical order of drivetrain after the flywheel)<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Drivetrain/Bellhousing|Bellhousing]]<br /> <br /> [[Clutch]]<br /> <br /> [[Automatic Gearbox]]<br /> <br /> [[Manual Gearbox]]<br /> <br /> * [[Removing Spigot Bearings]]<br /> <br /> [[Tailshaft]]<br /> <br /> [[Differential Gears]]<br /> <br /> [[Differential Housing]]<br /> <br /> [[Axles]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> --[[User:Grimwolge|Grimwolge]] 12:46, 18 Jul 2005 (EST)<br /> <br /> == Suspension ==<br /> <br /> [[Rear Leaf Springs]]<br /> <br /> [[Stud Pattern]]<br /> <br /> [[KE55 Front Strut Upgrades]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === KE1x Suspension ===<br /> <br /> [[Replacing front strut inserts on your KE1x]]<br /> <br /> [[Lowering KE1x Front using KE2x parts]]<br /> <br /> == Brakes ==<br /> <br /> [[Front Disc Brakes]]<br /> <br /> [[Rear Disc Brakes]]<br /> <br /> == Electrical ==<br /> <br /> [[Alternator]]<br /> <br /> [[Dash Cluster]]<br /> <br /> [[Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Headlights]]<br /> <br /> [[Relays]]<br /> <br /> [[Starter Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Spark Plug Types]]<br /> <br /> [[Tachometer]]<br /> <br /> [[Thermo Fan]]<br /> <br /> [[Wiring Diagrams]]<br /> <br /> == Emission Systems ==<br /> <br /> [[Emission System Abbreviations|Emission System Abbreviations]]<br /> <br /> [[Emission System Components|Emission System Components]]<br /> <br /> == Reference Material ==<br /> <br /> [[Corolla Model Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Homologations]] - Listing of FIA Homologated Corollas for Group 1-4 and Group A<br /> <br /> [[Books]]<br /> <br /> Codes - Engine, Body, Axle<br /> <br /> Service<br /> <br /> Torque Specs<br /> <br /> * [[Reference:What Carb| What Carb is that ?]]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/AE86Manual.pdf.gz AE86 Manual]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/KE70_Chassis_Electrical_System.pdf KE70 Chassis Electrical System]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/Starlet_Manual_Supplement_&amp;_Revisions.zip KP61 Starlet Manual includes 4KE EFI]<br /> <br /> * [http://home.onthenet.com.au/~paulp/Blacktop/ Blacktop 4AGE Manual]<br /> <br /> = Maintenance =<br /> <br /> == Body ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Body/Fixing Rust| Fixing Rust]]<br /> <br /> == Engine ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising| Decarbonising an engine]]<br /> <br /> == Suspension ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Suspension/Control Arm Bushes| Control Arm Bushes]]<br /> <br /> = Upgrades =<br /> [[Upgrades:Ke55 boot release|Ke55 Boot Release]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71| Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Hilux Diff Conversion| Hilux Diff Conversion Into KE55]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch|KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 K50 gearbox into 3K powered KE20| KE70 K50 into 3K powered KE20]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring|KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Nikki Carb onto K motor|Nikki carb onto K motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Sigma Control Arms| Sigma Control Arms]]<br /> <br /> == Engineering your Car ==<br /> <br /> ===[[Overview]]===<br /> <br /> [[South Australia]]<br /> <br /> [[Victoria]]<br /> <br /> = History =<br /> [[History:60s |The '60s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:70s |The '70s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:80s |The '80s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:90s |The '90s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:Racing | Racing]]<br /> <br /> = Related =<br /> [[Car Movies]]<br /> <br /> ----<br /> the bit where jamie can edit the main page is cool :D</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page_Old&diff=3670 2009-09-17T04:56:46Z

<p>Taz rx: /* General Information */</p> <hr /> <div>'''Welcome to the Rollaclub FAQ'''<br /> <br /> This FAQ Has been migrated to WIKI format from the Oldcorollas FAQ, maintained by Super Jamie.<br /> <br /> Further Discussion of any articles here may be made on the:<br /> [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/oldcorollas/ Old Corollas Yahoo Group]<br /> and<br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/ Rollaclub Messageboard]<br /> <br /> <br /> = Tech =<br /> <br /> == Engine ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === K Series ===<br /> <br /> ==== General Information ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Alternator|Alternator]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Camshaft|Camshaft]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Carburettor|Carburettor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Heads|Cylinder Heads]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/EFI|Electronic Fuel Injection]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Emissions System|Emissions System]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Exhaust|Exhaust]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Flywheel|Flywheel]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Filter|Fuel Filter]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Pump|Fuel Pump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor|How To Build A Tough 'K' Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/How To Fix K Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)|How To Fix 'K' Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/K|KE1x Series 'K' Engine Specific Info]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/Mounts|Mounts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distrib|Nippon Denso Distributor Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Oil Pump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Starter Motor|Starter Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Sump]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Torque_Settings|Torque Settings]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve Clearances]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD Uprite Kit|TRD Upright Kit]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4kstall|What Is A Fuel Solenoid?]]<br /> <br /> ==== K (1077cc) ====<br /> <br /> ==== 2K (993cc) ====<br /> <br /> ==== 3K (1166cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Bigport Head|Bigport Head]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Factory Twin Carbs|Factory Twin Carbs]]<br /> <br /> ==== 4K (1290cc) ====<br /> <br /> '''------------4K-C'''<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-C/4K-C Emission System Diagram|4K-C Emission System Diagram]]<br /> <br /> '''------------4K-E'''<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Injectors|Injectors]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Rocker Cover|Rocker Cover]]<br /> <br /> ==== 5K (1496cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/5K-C/5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion|5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion]]<br /> <br /> ==== 7K (1812cc) ====<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes|Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes]]<br /> <br /> === A Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/A-Series Engine FAQ|A-Series Engine FAQ]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Alternator Wiring Diagram|Alternator Wiring Diagram]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Cooling Guide|Cooling Guide]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Crossmembers|Crossmembers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/ECU Pinouts|ECU Pinouts]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Electronic 4AC dizzy|Electronic 4AC dizzy]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/External Thermostat|External Thermostat]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Heads|Heads]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Injectors|Injectors]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank|Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Internals|Internals]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rear Water Outlet|Rear Water Outlet]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rebuilding Your 4ag(z)e|Rebuilding Your 4AG(Z)E]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Replacing Your Timing Belt|Replacing Your Timing Belt]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Toyota Part Numbers|Toyota Part Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/TVIS|What Is TVIS?]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/A Series/Wiring Diagrams|Wiring Diagrams]]<br /> <br /> [[Removing the Air Bypass Valve on a 4agze]]<br /> <br /> === S Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Head|Head]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/EFI|EFI]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/S Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]<br /> <br /> === T Series ===<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/T Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Engine/T Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]<br /> <br /> === E Series ===<br /> [[Tech:Engine/E Series/Blocks|Blocks]]<br /> <br /> == [[:Category:Fuel System | Fuel System]] ==<br /> <br /> [[EFI]]<br /> <br /> [[Fuel]]<br /> <br /> [[How To Set Up Your Fuel System]]<br /> <br /> == [[:Category: Drivetrain | Drivetrain]] ==<br /> <br /> (In logical order of drivetrain after the flywheel)<br /> <br /> [[Tech:Drivetrain/Bellhousing|Bellhousing]]<br /> <br /> [[Clutch]]<br /> <br /> [[Automatic Gearbox]]<br /> <br /> [[Manual Gearbox]]<br /> <br /> * [[Removing Spigot Bearings]]<br /> <br /> [[Tailshaft]]<br /> <br /> [[Differential Gears]]<br /> <br /> [[Differential Housing]]<br /> <br /> [[Axles]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> --[[User:Grimwolge|Grimwolge]] 12:46, 18 Jul 2005 (EST)<br /> <br /> == Suspension ==<br /> <br /> [[Rear Leaf Springs]]<br /> <br /> [[Stud Pattern]]<br /> <br /> [[KE55 Front Strut Upgrades]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === KE1x Suspension ===<br /> <br /> [[Replacing front strut inserts on your KE1x]]<br /> <br /> [[Lowering KE1x Front using KE2x parts]]<br /> <br /> == Brakes ==<br /> <br /> [[Front Disc Brakes]]<br /> <br /> [[Rear Disc Brakes]]<br /> <br /> == Electrical ==<br /> <br /> [[Alternator]]<br /> <br /> [[Dash Cluster]]<br /> <br /> [[Distributor]]<br /> <br /> [[Headlights]]<br /> <br /> [[Relays]]<br /> <br /> [[Starter Motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Spark Plug Types]]<br /> <br /> [[Tachometer]]<br /> <br /> [[Thermo Fan]]<br /> <br /> [[Wiring Diagrams]]<br /> <br /> == Emission Systems ==<br /> <br /> [[Emission System Abbreviations|Emission System Abbreviations]]<br /> <br /> [[Emission System Components|Emission System Components]]<br /> <br /> == Reference Material ==<br /> <br /> [[Corolla Model Numbers]]<br /> <br /> [[Homologations]] - Listing of FIA Homologated Corollas for Group 1-4 and Group A<br /> <br /> [[Books]]<br /> <br /> Codes - Engine, Body, Axle<br /> <br /> Service<br /> <br /> Torque Specs<br /> <br /> * [[Reference:What Carb| What Carb is that ?]]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/AE86Manual.pdf.gz AE86 Manual]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/KE70_Chassis_Electrical_System.pdf KE70 Chassis Electrical System]<br /> <br /> * [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/Starlet_Manual_Supplement_&amp;_Revisions.zip KP61 Starlet Manual includes 4KE EFI]<br /> <br /> * [http://home.onthenet.com.au/~paulp/Blacktop/ Blacktop 4AGE Manual]<br /> <br /> = Maintenance =<br /> <br /> == Body ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Body/Fixing Rust| Fixing Rust]]<br /> <br /> == Engine ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising| Decarbonising an engine]]<br /> <br /> == Suspension ==<br /> * [[Maintenance:Suspension/Control Arm Bushes| Control Arm Bushes]]<br /> <br /> = Upgrades =<br /> [[Upgrades:Ke55 boot release|Ke55 Boot Release]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71| Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Hilux Diff Conversion| Hilux Diff Conversion Into KE55]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch|KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 K50 gearbox into 3K powered KE20| KE70 K50 into 3K powered KE20]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring|KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Nikki Carb onto K motor|Nikki carb onto K motor]]<br /> <br /> [[Upgrades:Sigma Control Arms| Sigma Control Arms]]<br /> <br /> == Engineering your Car ==<br /> <br /> ===[[Overview]]===<br /> <br /> [[South Australia]]<br /> <br /> [[Victoria]]<br /> <br /> = History =<br /> [[History:60s |The '60s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:70s |The '70s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:80s |The '80s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:90s |The '90s]]<br /> <br /> [[History:Racing | Racing]]<br /> <br /> = Related =<br /> [[Car Movies]]<br /> <br /> ----<br /> the bit where jamie can edit the main page is cool :D</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/A_Series/RWD_Gearboxes&diff=3624 2009-01-27T23:27:46Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are 2 main options for a gearbox when it comes to converting your 4AGE to RWD/FR. The choice you make is dependant on how much power you expect your engine to make. The T50 gearbox should hold up well enough under a worked N/A engine provided you treat it nicely. If you have intentions of a supercharged or turbocharged engine, I would suggest you head towards the W5x gearbox option.<br /> <br /> <br /> T50 Gearbox - You can source a T50 gearbox from an australian AE71/AE86 or get one from an imported AE86. There is 1 main difference between the australian and japanese T50 gearboxes. Both of these should handle stock power without a problem. (These are the 22 spline version, not the celica 20 spline)<br /> <br /> * ADM T50 (Australian Domestic Market) - Clutch fork on passenger side of car.<br /> * JDM T50 (Japanese Domestic Market) - Clutch fork on drivers side of car.<br /> <br /> ADM T50<br /> <br /> [[Image:Motor-and-boxb.jpg]]<br /> <br /> JDM T50<br /> <br /> [[Image:Post-6-1117457073.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> W5x Gearbox - You can use a W5x gearbox with a bellhousing adapter, people usually swap to these when their engines are putting out high power figures as T50 gearboxes are a lot weaker. Note that you will have to modify your tailshaft to suit the different gearbox output shaft.<br /> <br /> Gearbox Bellhousing Adapter<br /> <br /> [[Image:4AGE To W Bellhousing.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Gearbox Bellhousing Adapter On W5x Gearbox<br /> <br /> [[Image:4AGE To W Bellhousing On.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sourced From [http://www.skynet.ie/~eireae86/tech/4A-G_W_bel_housing/ http://www.skynet.ie/~eireae86/tech/4A-G_W_bel_housing/]<br /> <br /> <br /> Addition:<br /> I have been reading on Club_k for some time now about a K50 gearbox that fits A series motors, and have always been a bit confused - Until now so I'm sharing what I have learnt.<br /> God know's what Toyota was thinking but they fitted these A-K50's in JDM AE85's and AE70's and some of them have found there way to the land of the long white cloud.<br /> They still have an intergrated bellhousing and a 20 spline output like other K boxes and because of the cars they come from have a ke70 style rear shifter position.<br /> I'm not by any means suggesting these as a viable A series gearbox option (as we have readily available T50's to fit A's), but it might just be handy to have this information here.<br /> <br /> [[Image:A-K50.jpg]][[Image:A-K50-2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man''<br /> ''Addition by Taz_rx''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#A_Series A Series Engines]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:A-K50-2.jpg&diff=3623 2009-01-27T23:15:31Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:A-K50.jpg&diff=3622 2009-01-27T23:13:17Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3614 2008-10-21T02:31:19Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> Although the K-T50 bellhousing in any form is very rare, nearly every clutch manifacturer make a kit for it. When looking for a ke20-70 clutch kit you may be asked &quot;is it a 19 or 21 spline?&quot; <br /> <br /> All post ke20 K40 and K50 gearboxes have a 19 spline input shaft, with a 180mm diametre clutch plate. Hence the clutch dimentions are 180x21.6x19T - where 21.6mm is the input shaft diametre. These are listed as &quot;most 4 &amp; 5 speeds&quot;.<br /> This is the exedy listing for a K40/50 clutch....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40330<br /> <br /> The T50 box has a 24.1mm input shaft with 21 splines, this is the 21 spline kit you may be asked if you have. It still bolts to a stock 3k/4k 180mm flywheel, hence the clutch dimentions are 180x24.1x21T. Commonly referred to as &quot;some 5 speeds&quot;. Here is Exedy's listing for the K-T....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40331<br /> <br /> You may also notice that between different clutch manifacturers the middle number in the dimentions (input shaft diametre) may be different. For example PBR list the K-T50 kit as 180x28.3x21T. This is because they measure the diametre of the shaft in the vallies, whereas say Exedy measure it on the peaks of the spline.<br /> <br /> <br /> GEARBOX SELECTION - Which one to use?<br /> There are a few different type of T50 gearboxes, and you need to be selective on which one you use for a K-T.<br /> Shifter position:<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's share a &quot;ke30-55&quot; shifter position. The AE86 and AE71 T50's have a &quot;ke70&quot; shifter position.<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's both also have a 20 spline output shaft, just like a ke20-70 corolla. The gearbox is also the same length so there is no tailshft mods required to use one! The later (AE86/AE71)ones are 22 spline output and will require the tailshaft yoke to be swapped.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The WX0 (W40/W50) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KM20-36 Liteace.<br /> This bell housing will bolt up to 4x of the 7x bolt holes on a W40 or W50 celica STEEL CASE gearbox, however you will need to grind a small amount out of the back of the bell housing to clear a &quot;welse plug looking thing&quot; on the gearbox - see the below link for pictures of this. I have mine bolted to (see below pic) an RA40 celica W50.<br /> <br /> CLUTCH and FLYWHEEL:<br /> There is only one option when it comes to clutches &amp; flywheels for this GB combo. You need to use the KM20-36 (beit 4k or 5k) flywheel, clutch fork, throwout bearing retainer, and clutch kit. The flywheel on a litace has the same overall diametre as a corolla one, however it has a bigger 200mm clutch plate surface. The W50 input spline is the same as a liteace one so it all then matches up. Clutch dimentions are 200x29.8x21T and here is the exedy listing.....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=14772<br /> Even though this is a 'light commercial' clutch kit, exedy still make a brass buttom option!!!! hahaha - That would be fun in a loaded up van!!!<br /> Just like the liteace, this gearbox combo still retains a cable clutch system.<br /> <br /> SHIFTER POSITION:<br /> The W50 that I am using has the same shifter position as a ke70, so fitting one in a ke30-55 will require a bigger shifter hole.<br /> <br /> TAILSHAFT:<br /> The W50 GB is the same overall length as a K40/50, so no tailshaft shortening/lengthening is required. However the output spline is MUCH bigger and a corolla tail shaft needs to have the RA40 yoke transplanted onto it. This can be done with an old Holden (of all things) uni joint!!<br /> (Pictures courtesy of Taz_rx)<br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''W5X (Toyota Factory 5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> This option is probably a bit of an overkill for a K series motor, but by using the bell housing from a KR42R (7kc/e powered) townace allows you to fit a W55, W56 etc celica/supra ALLOY CASE GB.<br /> To do so you will need to use the townace flywheel, clutch kit, fork and retainer, as well as the slave cylinder as this is a HYDRAULIC ONLY clutch.<br /> The townace 7k flywheel is still the same overall diametre as a corolla one, but has a bigger again 215mm clutch plate surface, so clutch dimentions are 215x29.8x21T, again here is the Exedy listing...<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=14829<br /> Suprisingly again there is a brass button option.<br /> <br /> Below is a W56 from a KR42R, still attached to a 7KC.<br /> <br /> [[Image:W56.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:W56.jpg&diff=3613 2008-10-21T02:28:05Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3604 2008-09-23T23:55:20Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> Although the K-T50 bellhousing in any form is very rare, nearly every clutch manifacturer make a kit for it. When looking for a ke20-70 clutch kit you may be asked &quot;is it a 19 or 21 spline?&quot; <br /> <br /> All post ke20 K40 and K50 gearboxes have a 19 spline input shaft, with a 180mm diametre clutch plate. Hence the clutch dimentions are 180x21.6x19T - where 21.6mm is the input shaft diametre. These are listed as &quot;most 4 &amp; 5 speeds&quot;.<br /> This is the exedy listing for a K40/50 clutch....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40330<br /> <br /> The T50 box has a 24.1mm input shaft with 21 splines, this is the 21 spline kit you may be asked if you have. It still bolts to a stock 3k/4k 180mm flywheel, hence the clutch dimentions are 180x24.1x21T. Commonly referred to as &quot;some 5 speeds&quot;. Here is Exedy's listing for the K-T....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40331<br /> <br /> You may also notice that between different clutch manifacturers the middle number in the dimentions (input shaft diametre) may be different. For example PBR list the K-T50 kit as 180x28.3x21T. This is because they measure the diametre of the shaft in the vallies, whereas say Exedy measure it on the peaks of the spline.<br /> <br /> <br /> GEARBOX SELECTION - Which one to use?<br /> There are a few different type of T50 gearboxes, and you need to be selective on which one you use for a K-T.<br /> Shifter position:<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's share a &quot;ke30-55&quot; shifter position. The AE86 and AE71 T50's have a &quot;ke70&quot; shifter position.<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's both also have a 20 spline output shaft, just like a ke20-70 corolla. The gearbox is also the same length so there is no tailshft mods required to use one! The later (AE86/AE71)ones are 22 spline output and will require the tailshaft yoke to be swapped.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The WX0 (W40/W50) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KM20-36 Liteace.<br /> This bell housing will bolt up to 4x of the 7x bolt holes on a W40 or W50 celica STEEL CASE gearbox, however you will need to grind a small amount out of the back of the bell housing to clear a &quot;welse plug looking thing&quot; on the gearbox - see the below link for pictures of this. I have mine bolted to (see below pic) an RA40 celica W50.<br /> <br /> CLUTCH and FLYWHEEL:<br /> There is only one option when it comes to clutches &amp; flywheels for this GB combo. You need to use the KM20-36 (beit 4k or 5k) flywheel, clutch fork, throwout bearing retainer, and clutch kit. The flywheel on a litace has the same overall diametre as a corolla one, however it has a bigger 200mm clutch plate surface. The W50 input spline is the same as a liteace one so it all then matches up. Clutch dimentions are 200x29.8x21T and here is the exedy listing.....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=14772<br /> Even though this is a 'light commercial' clutch kit, exedy still make a brass buttom option!!!! hahaha - That would be fun in a loaded up van!!!<br /> Just like the liteace, this gearbox combo still retains a cable clutch system.<br /> <br /> SHIFTER POSITION:<br /> The W50 that I am using has the same shifter position as a ke70, so fitting one in a ke30-55 will require a bigger shifter hole.<br /> <br /> TAILSHAFT:<br /> The W50 GB is the same overall length as a K40/50, so no tailshaft shortening/lengthening is required. However the output spline is MUCH bigger and a corolla tail shaft needs to have the RA40 yoke transplanted onto it. This can be done with an old Holden (of all things) uni joint!!<br /> (Pictures courtesy of Taz_rx)<br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''W5X (Toyota Factory 5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> This option is probably a bit of an overkill for a K series motor, but by using the bell housing from a KR42R (7kc/e powered) townace allows you to fit a W55, W56 etc celica/supra ALLOY CASE GB.<br /> To do so you will need to use the townace flywheel, clutch kit, fork and retainer, as well as the slave cylinder as this is a HYDRAULIC ONLY clutch.<br /> The townace 7k flywheel is still the same overall diametre as a corolla one, but has a bigger again 215mm clutch plate surface, so clutch dimentions are 215x29.8x21T, again here is the Exedy listing...<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=14829<br /> Suprisingly again there is a brass button option.<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3603 2008-09-23T07:18:20Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> Although the K-T50 bellhousing in any form is very rare, nearly every clutch manifacturer make a kit for it. When looking for a ke20-70 clutch kit you may be asked &quot;is it a 19 or 21 spline?&quot; <br /> <br /> All post ke20 K40 and K50 gearboxes have a 19 spline input shaft, with a 180mm diametre clutch plate. Hence the clutch dimentions are 180x21.6x19T - where 21.6mm is the input shaft diametre. These are listed as &quot;most 4 &amp; 5 speeds&quot;.<br /> This is the exedy listing for a K40/50 clutch....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40330<br /> <br /> The T50 box has a 24.1mm input shaft with 21 splines, this is the 21 spline kit you may be asked if you have. It still bolts to a stock 3k/4k 180mm flywheel, hence the clutch dimentions are 180x24.1x21T. Commonly referred to as &quot;some 5 speeds&quot;. Here is Exedy's listing for the K-T....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40331<br /> <br /> You may also notice that between different clutch manifacturers the middle number in the dimentions (input shaft diametre) may be different. For example PBR list the K-T50 kit as 180x28.3x21T. This is because they measure the diametre of the shaft in the vallies, whereas say Exedy measure it on the peaks of the spline.<br /> <br /> <br /> GEARBOX SELECTION - Which one to use?<br /> There are a few different type of T50 gearboxes, and you need to be selective on which one you use for a K-T.<br /> Shifter position:<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's share a &quot;ke30-55&quot; shifter position. The AE86 and AE71 T50's have a &quot;ke70&quot; shifter position.<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's both also have a 20 spline output shaft, just like a ke20-70 corolla. The gearbox is also the same length so there is no tailshft mods required to use one! The later (AE86/AE71)ones are 22 spline output and will require the tailshaft yoke to be swapped.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The WX0 (W40/W50) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KM20-36 Liteace.<br /> This bell housing will bolt up to 4x of the 7x bolt holes on a W40 or W50 celica STEEL CASE gearbox, however you will need to grind a small amount out of the back of the bell housing to clear a &quot;welse plug looking thing&quot; on the gearbox - see the below link for pictures of this. I have mine bolted to (see below pic) an RA40 celica W50.<br /> <br /> CLUTCH and FLYWHEEL:<br /> There is only one option when it comes to clutches &amp; flywheels for this GB combo. You need to use the KM20-36 (beit 4k or 5k) flywheel, clutch fork, throwout bearing retainer, and clutch kit. The flywheel on a litace has the same overall diametre as a corolla one, however it has a bigger 200mm clutch plate surface. The W50 input spline is the same as a liteace one so it all then matches up. Clutch dimentions are 200x29.8x21T and here is the exedy listing.....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=14772<br /> Even though this is a 'light commercial' clutch kit, exedy still make a brass buttom option!!!! hahaha - That would be fun in a loaded up van!!!<br /> Just like the liteace, this gearbox combo still retains a cable clutch system.<br /> <br /> SHIFTER POSITION:<br /> The W50 that I am using has the same shifter position as a ke70, so fitting one in a ke30-55 will require a bigger shifter hole.<br /> <br /> TAILSHAFT:<br /> The W50 GB is the same overall length as a K40/50, so no tailshaft shortening/lengthening is required. However the output spline is MUCH bigger and a corolla tail shaft needs to have the RA40 yoke transplanted onto it. This can be done with an old Holden (of all things) uni joint!!<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''W5X (Toyota Factory 5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> This option is probably a bit of an overkill for a K series motor, but by using the bell housing from a KR42R (7kc/e powered) townace allows you to fit a W55, W56 etc celica/supra ALLOY CASE GB.<br /> To do so you will need to use the townace flywheel, clutch kit, fork and retainer, as well as the slave cylinder as this is a HYDRAULIC ONLY clutch.<br /> The townace 7k flywheel is still the same overall diametre as a corolla one, but has a bigger again 215mm clutch plate surface, so clutch dimentions are 215x29.8x21T, again here is the Exedy listing...<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=14829<br /> Suprisingly again there is a brass button option.<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3602 2008-09-23T07:16:10Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> Although the K-T50 bellhousing in any form is very rare, nearly every clutch manifacturer make a kit for it. When looking for a ke20-70 clutch kit you may be asked &quot;is it a 19 or 21 spline?&quot; <br /> <br /> All post ke20 K40 and K50 gearboxes have a 19 spline input shaft, with a 180mm diametre clutch plate. Hence the clutch dimentions are 180x21.6x19T - where 21.6mm is the input shaft diametre. These are listed as &quot;most 4 &amp; 5 speeds&quot;.<br /> This is the exedy listing for a K40/50 clutch....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40330<br /> <br /> The T50 box has a 24.1mm input shaft with 21 splines, this is the 21 spline kit you may be asked if you have. It still bolts to a stock 3k/4k 180mm flywheel, hence the clutch dimentions are 180x24.1x21T. Commonly referred to as &quot;some 5 speeds&quot;. Here is Exedy's listing for the K-T....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40331<br /> <br /> You may also notice that between different clutch manifacturers the middle number in the dimentions (input shaft diametre) may be different. For example PBR list the K-T50 kit as 180x28.3x21T. This is because they measure the diametre of the shaft in the vallies, whereas say Exedy measure it on the peaks of the spline.<br /> <br /> <br /> GEARBOX SELECTION - Which one to use?<br /> There are a few different type of T50 gearboxes, and you need to be selective on which one you use for a K-T.<br /> Shifter position:<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's share a &quot;ke30-55&quot; shifter position. The AE86 and AE71 T50's have a &quot;ke70&quot; shifter position.<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's both also have a 20 spline output shaft, just like a ke20-70 corolla. The gearbox is also the same length so there is no tailshft mods required to use one! The later (AE86/AE71)ones are 22 spline output and will require the tailshaft yoke to be swapped.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The WX0 (W40/W50) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KM20-36 Liteace.<br /> This bell housing will bolt up to 4x of the 7x bolt holes on a W40 or W50 celica STEEL CASE gearbox, however you will need to grind a small amount out of the back of the bell housing to clear a &quot;welse plug looking thing&quot; on the gearbox - see the below link for pictures of this. I have mine bolted to (see below pic) an RA40 celica W50.<br /> <br /> CLUTCH and FLYWHEEL:<br /> There is only one option when it comes to clutches &amp; flywheels for this GB combo. You need to use the KM20-36 (beit 4k or 5k) flywheel, clutch fork, throwout bearing retainer, and clutch kit. The flywheel on a litace has the same overall diametre as a corolla one, however it has a bigger 200mm clutch plate surface. The W50 input spline is the same as a liteace one so it all then matches up. Clutch dimentions are 200x29.8x21T and here is the exedy listing.....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=14772<br /> Even though this is a 'light commercial' clutch kit, exedy still make a brass buttom option!!!! hahaha - That would be fun in a loaded up van!!!<br /> Just like the liteace, this gearbox combo still retains a cable clutch system.<br /> <br /> SHIFTER POSITION:<br /> The W50 that I am using has the same shifter position as a ke70, so fitting one in a ke30-55 will require a bigger shifter hole.<br /> <br /> TAILSHAFT:<br /> The W50 GB is the same overall length as a K40/50, so no tailshaft shortening/lengthening is required. However the output spline is MUCH bigger and a corolla tail shaft needs to have the RA40 yoke transplanted onto it. This can be done with an old Holden (of all things) uni joint!!<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''W5X (Toyota Factory 5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> This option is probably a bit of an overkill for a K series motor, but by using the bell housing from a KR42R (7kc/e powered) townace allows you to fit a W55, W56 etc celica/supra ALLOY CASE GB.<br /> To do so you will need to use the townace flywheel, clutch kit, fork and retainer, as well as the slave cylinder as this is a HYDRAULIC ONLY clutch.<br /> The townace 7k flywheel is still the same overall diametre as a corolla one, but has a bigger again 215mm clutch plate surface, so clutch dimentions are 215x29.8x21T, again here is the Exedy listing...<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=14829<br /> Suprisingly again there is a brass button option.<br /> <br /> [attachment=30112:100_1091.jpg]<br /> <br /> [attachment=30111:100_1087.jpg]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3601 2008-09-23T06:56:09Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> Although the K-T50 bellhousing in any form is very rare, nearly every clutch manifacturer make a kit for it. When looking for a ke20-70 clutch kit you may be asked &quot;is it a 19 or 21 spline?&quot; <br /> <br /> All post ke20 K40 and K50 gearboxes have a 19 spline input shaft, with a 180mm diametre clutch plate. Hence the clutch dimentions are 180x21.6x19T - where 21.6mm is the input shaft diametre. These are listed as &quot;most 4 &amp; 5 speeds&quot;.<br /> This is the exedy listing for a K40/50 clutch....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40330<br /> <br /> The T50 box has a 24.1mm input shaft with 21 splines, this is the 21 spline kit you may be asked if you have. It still bolts to a stock 3k/4k 180mm flywheel, hence the clutch dimentions are 180x24.1x21T. Commonly referred to as &quot;some 5 speeds&quot;. Here is Exedy's listing for the K-T....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40331<br /> <br /> You may also notice that between different clutch manifacturers the middle number in the dimentions (input shaft diametre) may be different. For example PBR list the K-T50 kit as 180x28.3x21T. This is because they measure the diametre of the shaft in the vallies, whereas say Exedy measure it on the peaks of the spline.<br /> <br /> <br /> GEARBOX SELECTION - Which one to use?<br /> There are a few different type of T50 gearboxes, and you need to be selective on which one you use for a K-T.<br /> Shifter position:<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's share a &quot;ke30-55&quot; shifter position. The AE86 and AE71 T50's have a &quot;ke70&quot; shifter position.<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's both also have a 20 spline output shaft, just like a ke20-70 corolla. The gearbox is also the same length so there is no tailshft mods required to use one! The later (AE86/AE71)ones are 22 spline output and will require the tailshaft yoke to be swapped.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The WX0 (W40/W50) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KM20-36 Liteace.<br /> This bell housing will bolt up to 4x of the 7x bolt holes on a W40 or W50 celica STEEL CASE gearbox, however you will need to grind a small amount out of the back of the bell housing to clear a &quot;welse plug looking thing&quot; on the gearbox - see the below link for pictures of this. I have mine bolted to (see below pic) an RA40 celica W50.<br /> <br /> CLUTCH and FLYWHEEL:<br /> There is only one option when it comes to clutches &amp; flywheels for this GB combo. You need to use the KM20-36 (beit 4k or 5k) flywheel, clutch fork, throwout bearing retainer, and clutch kit. The flywheel on a litace has the same overall diametre as a corolla one, however it has a bigger 200mm clutch plate surface. The W50 input spline is the same as a liteace one so it all then matches up. Clutch dimentions are 200x29.8x21T and here is the exedy listing.....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=14772<br /> Even though this is a 'light commercial' clutch kit, exedy still make a brass buttom option!!!! hahaha - That would be fun in a loaded up van!!!<br /> Just like the liteace, this gearbox combo still retains a cable clutch system.<br /> <br /> SHIFTER POSITION:<br /> The W50 that I am using has the same shifter position as a ke70, so fitting one in a ke30-55 will require a bigger shifter hole.<br /> <br /> TAILSHAFT:<br /> The W50 GB is the same overall length as a K40/50, so no tailshaft shortening/lengthening is required. However the output spline is MUCH bigger and a corolla tail shaft needs to have the RA40 yoke transplanted onto it. This can be done with an old Holden (of all things) uni joint!!<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''W5X (Toyota Factory 5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> This option is probably a bit of an overkill for a K series motor, but by using the bell housing from a KR42R (7kc/e powered) townace allows you to fit a W55, W56 etc celica/supra ALLOY CASE GB.<br /> To do so you will need to use the townace flywheel, clutch kit, fork and retainer, as well as the slave cylinder as this is a HYDRAULIC ONLY clutch.<br /> The townace 7k flywheel is still the same overall diametre as a corolla one, but has a bigger again 215mm clutch plate surface, so clutch dimentions are 215x29.8x21T, again here is the Exedy listing...<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=14829<br /> Suprisingly again there is a brass button option.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3600 2008-09-23T06:34:26Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> Although the K-T50 bellhousing in any form is very rare, nearly every clutch manifacturer make a kit for it. When looking for a ke20-70 clutch kit you may be asked &quot;is it a 19 or 21 spline?&quot; <br /> <br /> All post ke20 K40 and K50 gearboxes have a 19 spline input shaft, with a 180mm diametre clutch plate. Hence the clutch dimentions are 180x21.6x19T - where 21.6mm is the input shaft diametre. These are listed as &quot;most 4 &amp; 5 speeds&quot;.<br /> This is the exedy listing for a K40/50 clutch....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40330<br /> <br /> The T50 box has a 24.1mm input shaft with 21 splines, this is the 21 spline kit you may be asked if you have. It still bolts to a stock 3k/4k 180mm flywheel, hence the clutch dimentions are 180x24.1x21T. Commonly referred to as &quot;some 5 speeds&quot;. Here is Exedy's listing for the K-T....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40331<br /> <br /> You may also notice that between different clutch manifacturers the middle number in the dimentions (input shaft diametre) may be different. For example PBR list the K-T50 kit as 180x28.3x21T. This is because they measure the diametre of the shaft in the vallies, whereas say Exedy measure it on the peaks of the spline.<br /> <br /> <br /> GEARBOX SELECTION - Which one to use?<br /> There are a few different type of T50 gearboxes, and you need to be selective on which one you use for a K-T.<br /> Shifter position:<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's share a &quot;ke30-55&quot; shifter position. The AE86 and AE71 T50's have a &quot;ke70&quot; shifter position.<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's both also have a 20 spline output shaft, just like a ke20-70 corolla. The gearbox is also the same length so there is no tailshft mods required to use one! The later (AE86/AE71)ones are 22 spline output and will require the tailshaft yoke to be swapped.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The WX0 (W40/W50) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KM20-36 Liteace.<br /> This bell housing will bolt up to 4x of the 7x bolt holes on a W40 or W50 gearbox, however you will need to grind a small amount out of the back of the bell housing to clear a &quot;welse plug looking thing&quot; on the gearbox - see the below link for pictures of this. I have mine bolted to (see below pic) an RA40 celica W50.<br /> <br /> CLUTCH and FLYWHEEL:<br /> There is only one option when it comes to clutches &amp; flywheels for this GB combo. You need to use the KM20-36 (beit 4k or 5k) flywheel, clutch fork, throwout bearing retainer, and clutch kit. The flywheel on a litace has the same overall diametre as a corolla one, however it has a bigger 200mm clutch plate surface. The W50 input spline is the same as a liteace one so it all then matches up. Clutch dimentions are 200x29.8x21T and here is the exedy listing.....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=14772<br /> Even though this is a 'light commercial' clutch kit, exedy still make a brass buttom option!!!! hahaha - That would be fun in a loaded up van!!!<br /> <br /> SHIFTER POSITION:<br /> The W50 that I am using has the same shifter position as a ke70, so fitting one in a ke30-55 will require a bigger shifter hole.<br /> <br /> TAILSHAFT:<br /> The W50 GB is the same overall length as a K40/50, so no tailshaft shortening/lengthening is required. However the output spline is MUCH bigger and a corolla tail shaft needs to have the RA40 yoke transplanted onto it. This can be done with an old Holden (of all things) uni joint!!<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3599 2008-09-23T05:22:57Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> Although the K-T50 bellhousing in any form is very rare, nearly every clutch manifacturer make a kit for it. When looking for a ke20-70 clutch kit you may be asked &quot;is it a 19 or 21 spline?&quot; <br /> <br /> All post ke20 K40 and K50 gearboxes have a 19 spline input shaft, with a 180mm diametre clutch plate. Hence the clutch dimentions are 180x21.6x19T - where 21.6mm is the input shaft diametre. These are listed as &quot;most 4 &amp; 5 speeds&quot;.<br /> This is the exedy listing for a K40/50 clutch....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40330<br /> <br /> The T50 box has a 24.1mm input shaft with 21 splines, this is the 21 spline kit you may be asked if you have. It still bolts to a stock 3k/4k 180mm flywheel, hence the clutch dimentions are 180x24.1x21T. Commonly referred to as &quot;some 5 speeds&quot;. Here is Exedy's listing for the K-T....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40331<br /> <br /> You may also notice that between different clutch manifacturers the middle number in the dimentions (input shaft diametre) may be different. For example PBR list the K-T50 kit as 180x28.3x21T. This is because they measure the diametre of the shaft in the vallies, whereas say Exedy measure it on the peaks of the spline.<br /> <br /> <br /> GEARBOX SELECTION - Which one to use?<br /> There are a few different type of T50 gearboxes, and you need to be selective on which one you use for a K-T.<br /> Shifter position:<br /> TA22 &amp; T18 T50's share a &quot;ke30-55&quot; shifter position. The AE86 and AE71 T50's have a &quot;ke70&quot; shifter position.<br /> TA22 celica T50's have a 20 spline output shaft, just like a ke20-70 corolla. The gearbox is also the same length so there is no tailshft mods required to use one! The later ones are 22 spline output and will require tailshaft modifications.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The WX0 (W40/W50) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KM20-36 Liteace.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3598 2008-09-23T05:01:09Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> Although the K-T50 bellhousing in any form is very rare, nearly every clutch manifacturer make a kit for it. When looking for a ke20-70 clutch kit you may be asked &quot;is it a 19 or 21 spline?&quot; <br /> <br /> All post ke20 K40 and K50 gearboxes have a 19 spline input shaft, with a 180mm diametre clutch plate. Hence the clutch dimentions are 180x21.6x19T - where 21.6mm is the input shaft diametre. These are listed as &quot;most 4 &amp; 5 speeds&quot;.<br /> This is the exedy listing for a K40/50 clutch....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40330<br /> <br /> The T50 box has a 24.1mm input shaft with 21 splines, this is the 21 spline kit you may be asked if you have. It still bolts to a stock 3k/4k 180mm flywheel, hence the clutch dimentions are 180x24.1x21T. Commonly referred to as &quot;some 5 speeds&quot;. Here is Exedy's listing for the K-T....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40331<br /> <br /> You may also notice that between different clutch manifacturers the middle number in the dimentions (input shaft diametre) may be different. For example PBR list the K-T50 kit as 180x28.3x21T. This is because they measure the diametre of the shaft in the vallies, whereas say Exedy measure it on the peaks of the spline.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The WX0 (W40/W50) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KM20-36 Liteace.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3597 2008-09-23T04:55:35Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> Although the K-T50 bellhousing in any form is very rare, nearly every clutch manifacturer make a kit for it. When looking for a ke20-70 clutch kit you may be asked &quot;is it a 19 or 21 spline?&quot; <br /> <br /> All post ke20 K40 and K50 gearboxes have a 19 spline input shaft, with a 180mm diametre clutch plate. Hence the clutch dimentions are 180x21.6x19T - where 21.6mm is the input shaft diametre. These are listed as &quot;most 4 &amp; 5 speeds&quot;.<br /> This is the exedy listing for a K40/50 clutch....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40330<br /> <br /> The T50 box has a 24.1mm input shaft with 21 splines, this is the 21 spline kit you may be asked if you have. It still bolts to a stock 3k/4k 180mm flywheel, hence the clutch dimentions are 180x24.1x21T. Commonly referred to as &quot;some 5 speeds&quot;. Here is Exedy's listing for the K-T....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40331<br /> <br /> You may also notice that between different clutch manifacturers the middle number in the dimentions (input shaft diametre) may be different. For example PBR list the K-T50 kit as 180x28.3x21T. This is because they measure the diametre of the shaft in the vallies, whereas say Exedy measure it on the peaks of the spline.<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The W5x (W50/W55) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KR42 Townace.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3596 2008-09-23T04:54:04Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> Although the K-T50 bellhousing in any form is very rare, nearly every clutch manifacturer make a kit for it. When looking for a ke20-70 clutch kit you may be asked &quot;is it a 19 or 21 spline?&quot; <br /> <br /> All post ke20 K40 and K50 gearboxes have a 19 spline input shaft, with a 180mm diametre clutch plate. Hence the clutch dimentions are 180x21.6x19T - where 21.6mm is the input shaft diametre. These are listed as &quot;most 4 &amp; 5 speeds&quot;.<br /> This is the exedy listing for a K40/50 clutch....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40330<br /> <br /> The T50 box has a 24.1mm input shaft with 21 splines, this is the 21 spline kit you may be asked if you have. It still bolts to a stock 3k/4k 180mm flywheel, hence the clutch dimentions are 180x24.1x21T. Here is Exedy's listing for the K-T....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40331<br /> <br /> You may also notice that between different clutch manifacturers the middle number in the dimentions (input shaft diametre) may be different. For example PBR list the K-T50 kit as 180x28.3x21T. This is because they measure the diametre of the shaft in the vallies, whereas say Exedy measure it on the peaks of the spline.<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The W5x (W50/W55) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KR42 Townace.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3595 2008-09-23T04:53:02Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> Although the K-T50 bellhousing in any form is very rare, nearly every clutch manifacturer make a kit for it. When looking for a ke20-70 clutch kit you may be asked &quot;is it a 19 or 21 spline?&quot; <br /> <br /> All post ke20 K40 and K50 gearboxes have a 19 spline input shaft, with a 180mm diametre clutch plate. Hence the clutch dimentions are 180x21.6x19T - where 21.6mm is the input shaft diametre. These are listed as &quot;most 4 &amp; 5 speeds&quot;.<br /> This is the exedy listing for a K40/50 clutch....<br /> http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?SpreadsheetRowId=40330<br /> <br /> The T50 box has a 24.1mm input shaft with 21 splines, this is the 21 spline kit you may be asked if you have. It still bolts to a stock 3k/4k 180mm flywheel, hence the clutch dimentions are 180x24.1x21T.<br /> <br /> You may also notice that between different clutch manifacturers the middle number in the dimentions (input shaft diametre) may be different. For example PBR list the K-T50 kit as 180x28.3x21T. This is because they measure the diametre of the shaft in the vallies, whereas say Exedy measure it on the peaks of the spline.<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The W5x (W50/W55) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KR42 Townace.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes&diff=3594 2008-09-23T04:32:03Z

<p>Taz rx: </p> <hr /> <div>There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''<br /> <br /> The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD and also Quaife. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing, <br /> <br /> <br /> ''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''<br /> <br /> <br /> 1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]<br /> <br /> CLUTCH FOR K-T50:<br /> <br /> <br /> 3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''<br /> <br /> <br /> The W5x (W50/W55) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KR42 Townace.<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:100 1083.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> See also:<br /> <br /> * http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)<br /> <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> ''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#K_Series K Series]<br /> <br /> Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]<br /> <br /> [http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]</div>

Taz rx